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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

thin_concrete

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Frequently I run the blade up through the workpiece to create an interrupted cut on jigsrouter templates and instrument panels, for example.

Never have kickbacks.

Those types of cuts aren’t a majority of most people’s cuts though. Even then, I don’t see how having a riving knife can be any type of obstacle (obviously not for that type of cut).
 
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rlitman

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Frequently I run the blade up through the workpiece to create an interrupted cut on jigsrouter templates and instrument panels, for example.

Never have kickbacks.


I’m glad you don’t have kickbacks. Many people don’t. It can come down to what you work with, what you do, and how you do it. Then again, most people would be fine, driving around without seatbelts too.

As for the riving knife getting in the way, on a decent saw, it comes off and goes on in just a few seconds. On my cobbled together home-made “thing” it takes about 15 seconds to loosen or tighten the nuts. But I’ve been thinking about improving on the design one day. Anyway, it takes no longer than changing a blade.

I use mine for about 75% of cuts.
Since mine rises above the blade above 3/4”, I have to remove it for tenoning, but you can’t count that.
It doesn’t help with a dado stack, and with a zero clearance insert you have to take it off to cut the slot, and then jigsaw the space for the knife, since it can’t cut for itself, so there’s that.

Right now, mine is off because I have an 8” blade on the saw. I needed something with a 1/16” kerf.
 
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Spacey_G

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I cut the slot for my splitter by moving the insert forward a calculated amount and raising the table saw blade through it. It probably would have been easier to use the jigsaw, huh?
 

rlitman

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I cut the slot for my splitter by moving the insert forward a calculated amount and raising the table saw blade through it. It probably would have been easier to use the jigsaw, huh?

The splitter slot should fit the splitter, which should be narrower than the kerf of the blade. The insert's slot actually helps keep the splitter centered on the blade, so long as it's narrower than the kerf that is.

If you usually use a 1/8" blade, I suppose you could cut the slot with a narrow kerf blade that's been offset with a shim to keep the same center, but it seems too complicated for me to bother with.

I actually cut mine on the scroll saw, because it's only a step away, and I can re-clamp the blade through the hole in less time than it takes me to pull out the jigsaw, uncoil the cord and find the right blade.
 

Modern Garage

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This is Woodworking 101 and I'm certainly a 101 level woodworker. I repair cars for a living so this project is a stretch for me... just need to disassemble and refinish but there are a few missing pieces that do actually require some woodworking to replicate and resize.
In the pics you can see that this cabinet has already begun to disassemble itself after living in an unheated garage for MANY years. Looking closely you can see the right side has two legs vs only one on the right. My guess is that this was part of a built-in somewhere and was repurposed as a stand-alone piece. I'll need to shorten the stiles (right term?) on the back frame when I eliminate the extra leg, and all the drawer supports are broken or missing so I'll need to make those. The drawers aren't pictured but they're in good shape, just loose so I can disassemble, clean, and re glue them.
So, before pics:
 

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Modern Garage

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Another quirk to this project is that I'll be doing it in my basement workshop because, regardless of where you live it's Winter here. I have power tools but don't want to deal with the dust issue indoors so I'll do this with hand tools. The side benefit of this plan is that it will force me to learn to sharpen things correctly and hopefully teach me the difference between good tools and cheap tools.
Disassembly is easy and the finish is really old shellac and decades of grime, easily removed with alcohol and lots of rags.
Now it's "measure twice, cut once" to narrow the rear frame to match the new single-leg width of the front frame. Out comes the miter box. Remember the part about the difference between cheap tools and good tools? This one's a cheapo. It's doing the work but a heavier more precise one would be easier and quicker. I'll just cut close and finish the tenons with a freshly sharpened chisel.
 

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Modern Garage

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This project fits my skill level because the parts I have to make are either on the back or inside - not too visible.
The next job is making drawer supports/slide rails.
I'm a cheapskate and the wood I need is right at hand outside. I just need to tear down an old pallet and retrieve the oak board hidden inside. The board I found measures an actual 1 inch thick and just under 4 inches wide. It's a little rough on the surfaces and almost dead straight so I've got enough length for the pieces I need and room to plane it flat and smooth to get the thickness I need.
Now back to the sharpening bench. I have an old Stanley number 7 plane that I refurbed a couple of years ago and it does a marvelous job, but I have a couple of smaller planes that I want to use. Both about the size of a Stanley number 4, one is a Millers Falls and the other is a "Handyman" brand sold in almost every hardware store in the land a few years ago (you know - when there were hardware stores) to the average schmoe that needed to destroy... er... fix a sticking door.
I pulled both apart, gently sanded the sides and bottoms smooth and flat, checked the interior castings with a flat file and sharpened the irons and reassembled both and put them to work.
More education. The same guy sharpened, assembled and adjusted these planes. One works, one doesn't. They both cut wood, but that's where the similarity ends. The Millers Falls just works smoother and easier. It's not sharper and only weighs a tiny bit more but it just... works... better.
The Handyman? That's going in the box for the garage sale my wife wants me to have. I need a bigger box.
 

Modern Garage

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So now I have a nice smooth, flat, four foot long oak 1x4 but I need drawer rails that are inch and a half wide so I grab my bud Harvey.
Harvey B. Peace made saws in the 1800's and I picked this saw at a garage sale last year because it was so pretty and I'd never heard of the name before. I make my living with tools and don't see them as collectibles so this saw got a good rub down and sharpening and a fresh coat of varnish on the handle. I don't simply "collect" tools, but I'm not against displaying them if they're pleasing to look at. 150 year old Harvey hangs on the wall for all to see.
 

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Stefan S

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Looking for router recommendations. I’m a novice who is decently invested in the festool system with ts75 track saw and mft.


I’m building some built in cabinets with bookshelves and was looking at the LR32 to drill the pin holes and cup hinges but am hung up on the cost of their routers...

Any suggestions?
 

Modern Garage

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Due to the "repurposed" nature of this cabinet some of the bits are a little "wonky" like this corner block of the upper section that houses the top drawer. It needs to be thicker and have a third dado like the one on the left. I have a whole extra leg that came from the front so I have material to work with, but I have to make the leap to actual visible parts!
First the dado before I cut it to length because the bigger piece is easier to hold onto. There's another thread here on GJ about "unobtainable" tools and the Stanley 45 was one of those for me. They're out there but more money than I want to spend. Until I got one at an auction with all the cutters and original wooden box for $25. Now you're talking my language.
Sharpened up the cutter I needed, plowed my dado, and cut it to length. Came out okay, I think.
 

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Modern Garage

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The conclusion of my first "school project" here is today. After multiple dry fittings, a new bottle of glue, and a steep learning curve on shellac application, I finally have three drawers of storage to go at my bedside. I still need two drawer pulls on the bottom drawer (the originals were too broken to use) but I want to wait until warm weather so I can use my lathe outside. I've still got enough wood left to make two knobs, so the education continues.
I'm not sure if I like the gloss finish. I may take a little steel wool to it and see if I like that better. The beauty of the shellac is that it's easy to fix if I screw up.

Joe
 

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Craptain

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Modern Garage, you picked an ideal project to learn on. And the result is something you can be proud of. You obviously have an eye and a feel for good tools and that is something that is not easily learnt.

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CRSINMICH

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Modern Garage: That's an interesting challenge you've taken on. If you do it right it may show up as a hologram on some future episode of Antiques Roadshow. The appraisers will have to explain all of the modifications that had been done on it.

Anyway, congrats on deciding to tackle it with hand tools. As you've already figured out they're not all the same. Millers Falls made some fine tools. Handyman tools were mostly in the probably-better-than-nothing category. I have a couple Harvey Peace saws and they are top notch. Yours is a beauty.

Also, congrats on your $25 #45.

EDIT: You made your last post as I was typing this. Well done!
 
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RKA

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Indeed, well done! You took something I would have assumed was destined for a burn pile and gave it new life again. And you restored it with consideration for how it was originally built! Good job, thanks for sharing the process!
 

jar944

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The conclusion of my first "school project" here is today. After multiple dry fittings, a new bottle of glue, and a steep learning curve on shellac application, I finally have three drawers of storage to go at my bedside. I still need two drawer pulls on the bottom drawer (the originals were too broken to use) but I want to wait until warm weather so I can use my lathe outside. I've still got enough wood left to make two knobs, so the education continues.
I'm not sure if I like the gloss finish. I may take a little steel wool to it and see if I like that better. The beauty of the shellac is that it's easy to fix if I screw up.

Joe

Excellent job:beer:
 

Modern Garage

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Thank you everyone.
I started this project ages ago but didn't document it until this morning because I didn't want to jinx myself by posting anything until it was finished. It's clear my talents lie in the automotive field but I had fun and learned a lot.

And isn't that what life should be about?

Joe
 
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turbowoodworker

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I haven't posted any "Fine Woodworking" in a while so here is an example of my efforts.:lol_hitti


Found out the top seal in my Paslode driver was munched.
 

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turbowoodworker

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Made the wife happy. She asked for a corner cabinet so stuff would not clutter the kitchen counter. And already stuff is cluttering the corner cabinet.

It is ply and poplar with some barn wood from the inlaw's farm.
 

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harley jim

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I have recently started making walking sticks. I was given some cedar trees that had been cut for about ten years so I made the first one for a mason and the second one for an Indian medicine man. a519b8907d56d4837d2dcef9bcf905a5.jpgba626c7c6bf2aac401640b83e7d38b05.jpgfe1f10f866fe937722a292d9e3e80ec9.jpg8523577bae6de5fd26e74c724ba99720.jpg

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harley jim

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Yes I do, my wife had me collect her a bucket full to make closet pouches to hang in the closets. Thank you for the kind words, I'm still trying to figure a few things out but I'm having fun with it. Started on a piece of hickory today.d9718079214b0ce1a47c4156ba72d92c.jpg

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turbowoodworker

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This was a quick weekend project.
Good news, my son has amassed a bunch of game balls and baseball starts up again next week. Bad news is he ran out of space for his game balls. Good, good news? Dad can fix that problem.

You might recall I made a ball rack previously so all I had to do was measure, copy, mill, cut, glue and finish. Plans had to be modified as always when using scrap and working within the constraints of "what ya got". Used some scrap mahogany and mahogany ply leftover in the pile of past projects. (The first rack was paduak).
 

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drivesitfar

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Turbo: it's great to hear your son is doing well on his baseball team and nothing better than winning and getting a game ball. even though there will be losses I bet I learned more from them than winning so it's all good.

you sir have skills!!

Jar: nice looking Shaper and are you going to keep both cause the smaller one has a power feed or move the power feed to the bigger one?

Jim: I'm hoping to get my parent's basement garage set up as a temp woodshop so I can show my dad how to use his Shopsmith he bought 25 years ago that i'm not sure he ever turned on. nice work if that was your first ones.

ALL: I just picked up a nice little Rockwell shaper with a box of almost new old stock cutters. should I (we) have a thread just on shapers and how to use one cause i bet they can be dangerous and handy and make some amazing things?
 

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jar944

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Jar: nice looking Shaper and are you going to keep both cause the smaller one has a power feed or move the power feed to the bigger one?

ALL: I just picked up a nice little Rockwell shaper with a box of almost new old stock cutters. should I (we) have a thread just on shapers and how to use one cause i bet they can be dangerous and handy and make some amazing things?

That's a nice little shaper, with what appears to be a decent amount of tooling. They can be dangerous though they aren't the finger eaters people talk about. The small 1 to 1.5hp versions are similar to large 3hp+ routers in power and usage except they are pleasant to be around. I'd be happy to chime in on a shaper thread.

Its interesting how common they are in industrial/ commercial settings they are but absent from the home shop (even well equipped home shops) I always get amused when the shaper vs router table post pops up on other forums and generally people are against them.

Really for vertical machining of wood there is no better option than a shaper no matter if it's a 1hp bench top unit or a 4000lb 15hp industrial behemoth (not counting moulders)

As for the power feeder on the new shaper, I have a few extra feeders, I plan on using on one of those. My intention is to sell the grizzly shaper I have as it just doesn't compare to the two in the picture.
 

turbowoodworker

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Thanks for starting the shaper thread, Drives. As a hobbyist, I don't have the room for one and am "committed: to routers, understanding that they are the littlest of brothers to a full size shaper.
 

turbowoodworker

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I just finally got around to replacing a crappy and possibly dangerous plywood insert with an HDPE insert specifically for my dado set at 1/2". Way better than before.
 

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drivesitfar

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Turbo: the SHAPER THREAD already has a lot of good posts (mostly from Jar) that have pictures, thread from OWWM link, videos and information that should help me (us) a lot. i own 5 routers and from what i've heard SHAPERS are pretty dangerous (most any power tool is if you are not careful and thinking), but my little one is on wheels and only takes up about a 2x3 foot space.

also did you make your tablesaw inserts or did you buy them? hard to make and what did you use for raw materials? i've got some 1/4 inch plexiglass sitting around that I wonder if it's a decent material to make some out of if I need to?

ALL: my bride liked a sort of cheesy wood dining table with ok metal legs and since i've got most of the tools and some cool black LATHE LEGS I'd sure like to make one.

anybody make a dining table and want to share pictures and methods? i bet a rough natural sort of edge would look good too?
 
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