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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

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riceaterSLC

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
89
You’ll need a slight gap between double doors, but not between cabinets. The way that hinge operates, it swings the inside corner of the door away from the frame before the outside. So double doors may interfere if they start out touching, but doors that back against each other will not.

When fully open, that hinge swings the door out and over the adjacent door. I think it may have just enough to accommodate a 3/4” thick door.

perfect, thanks for the clarification.
 

jar944

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Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,912
Location
Northern VA
Door thickness, and cup backspace all play together for the reveal spacing (door gap)

Take the time to understand the blum install parameters.
 

topcok88

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Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
I don’t know about everyone else here but this quarantine has got me searching out Amazon Warehouse Deals. 66248c5e91e57fce642122b24f4eb144.jpg It all started because I needed to order more 5x30 Dominos and 1 1/4” Kreg screws. Looked both of them up and found both on AWD! The 1,800 pack of Dominos MSRP for $100 but got for $80 because the box was damaged. The 5,000 count of screws MSRP for $80 and I got for $20 because of damaged packaging also. But the best was the CT MIDI I for $575 - damaged packaging. Just like the quick clamps and vac adapters. Now I’m spending my free time when I’m not buried in engineering work quarantined at home looking at WHD. Definitely recommend it after buying the FS3000 guide rail for cheap off there a few months back.


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TwoBytes

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Joined
Mar 14, 2014
Messages
790
Location
Canberra, 'Stralia
Yeah, thanks Marty, I sure did!

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And yep, good call ScottsGT, I am concerned about the top of the posts rotting out in no time, so I thought I'd add a "drip groove" underneath, so that capillary action won't draw rain water under there.

Thought it would be a good opportunity to build myself the ghetto router table that I've been thinking about for a while...

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Final step is to pull it apart and stain it all.

Any thoughts on the best way to attach the tops to the posts? My current thinking is either just glue them on with construction adhesive (given it will be living outside in the weather), or use Kreg-style pocket screws up from underneath (not super keen on having the pocket holes visible on the posts, I could plug them I guess, but maybe overkill?)
 

TwoBytes

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Joined
Mar 14, 2014
Messages
790
Location
Canberra, 'Stralia
Silicone seal sounds like a good idea, thanks, reckon I'll go with that. Bit of extra water resistance for the posts too.

I did make a couple of spares, but I used them as test pieces for routing the drip edge, so they're a bit wrecked already. I should've made more but I ran out of timber!
 

drivesitfar

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Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,008
Location
Pacific Northwest
Turbo: so you think putting silicone under the edges of the caps on TB's posts will hold them in place?

ALL: i'm thinking of making putting wood caps on my 6x6 fence posts that will be 2x8x8 with a 2x6x6 and a 2x4x4 so a 3 layer cap. can I glue it all on top of each other and not use screws or should I use silicone along the underside edge of the 2x8's where they sit on the 6x6's?

hope you are all getting a few things done while the powers at be figure out this crazy situation we've got.

cheers
 

Modern Garage

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Joined
Mar 26, 2015
Messages
583
Location
Southern Minnesota
How about two or four dowels between the cap and post and let gravity hold em down?
Or some molding tacked to the bottom of the caps like skirting, to socket onto the top of the post. That's how the store-bought ones I have are built, and except for when I poke them with a broom of snow shovel, they don't move.
Joe
 

turbowoodworker

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Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
3,531
Location
Apex NC
I added those copper covered wood caps I got from Lowe’s and I just used 2 or 3 dollups of silicone under each one. They are in a high traffic area. Been five years and still stuck. They don’t even wobble. I did not use so much silicone with any intention of water abatement.
I just thought it would hold well and be easily removed if needed. I’d do that before using the obvious outdoor, weatherproof glue because once they crack, and they will someday need replacing, the removal is easy.
 

txlonghorn1989

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Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
2,786
IMG_5152.jpg
Applied some Formica brand PREMIUMfx Midnight Stone Etchings Laminate on my torsion box out feed table. The box is a little deeper than most but I have plans to store some stuff inside. I will say don’t be like me and use the high VOC contact cement in your basement. I had to open the doors and use a large fan to **** the air out. I was super nervous about applying the laminate and trimming it with the router but it was really super easy. Definitely recommend it. Oh and I got the Laminate from the big box for $20 for a 4x8 sheet because of a small damage on the corner.


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tc, that looks great. I have thought about using laminate for a number of things like an outfeed table for the table saw. Good to hear that it is easy to do. Yours looks great by the way! Thanks for posting it.
 

wrenchguy

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Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
4,697
Location
NW Indiana
BELT SANDER 4 WOOD OR BODYWORK?
Anyone know this thing? Heavy green and silver wrinkle paint handle with fine threaded axles. Accepts 3" wide belt with plenty adjustments. Cast aluminium body and potmetal drive wheels. Wood work, body work? Oh yea, no motor?




 

topcok88

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Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
As always Jar - very clean and accurate work. Frames are always a pain but a good sled makes it tolerable.


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Unruh

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Joined
Aug 12, 2017
Messages
1,431
Location
Silverdale, Washington
I saw someone on reddit made Homer Simpson’s spice rack! It looks kinda fun so I gave it a shot!

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Catfishdan

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Aug 15, 2017
Messages
1,040
Location
Central coast, California
Shelter at home gave me the motivation to finish a coffee table I started a year ago. I wanted a new table for my house and decided to make it out of regular ol 3/4” ply wood.
I started by cutting up a half sheet into 390 pieces. Then, I glued and brad nailed them back together in a harringbone pattern. When that was done, I filled the the plywood voids with glue and sawdust , sanded a bunch, and cut it to size. Routing the edges really revealed a neat pattern.
 

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Catfishdan

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Central coast, California
That was as far as my plan went, so I fumbled around for a few days till I came up with the idea for the legs and the shelf. The legs are two thickness of plywood laminated together and the shelf is strips of plywood ripped down and laminated. I mocked it up with clamps and liked the look enough to start finishing the pieces. I got a few coats of wipe on poly applied before I lost interest.
 

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Catfishdan

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I checked the date on my photos. April 5 of last year was the last I ever I worked on it. It sat in pieces collecting dust for just over a year until I decided to finish it. I built plenty of other things in the meantime but had some sort of aversion to assembling it until a few days ago.
During lockdown, I put 6 more coats of Polly on it and assembled the pieces. I may put a few more coats on the top... maybe next year.
 

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Bigblockyeti

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Feb 1, 2018
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Location
Upstate, SC
That's very cool but how did you decide where to nail it with brads and where to rely on glue alone? I'd be very apprehensive about cutting or routing anything with brad nails unless I was certain they were far away from any cutting blade or bit.
 

rrich1

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Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
793
Long time no see. Last few months have been pretty crazy.

I finally was able to build my first wooodworking project this year. A room renovation has been my main focus.

A cherry and wenge magazine rack. Aluminum bars were used as well to add contrast and see the magazine fronts more clearly. This is a variation of one posted online.

Instead of using Domino's or pocket holes for the joinery, I decided to use box joints. Now normally the box joints are not used on the sides in this instance as the long grain tends to break off. And these were no exception. I think between both sides the bottom ones broke off 4 times and the middle one once. Super glue worked well to bond them back together as I was in a time crunch. Regular wood glue was used for the final glue up and really strengthened everything.

Overall I have never had so many problems with a project before. One thing after another seemed to plague this build. Things that managed to go wrong included:

1. Box joints broke off multiple times (knew that was a possiblity from the get go)

2. Measures wrong and scribed lines in the wrong spot on the front edge.

3. Somehow even with a stop block my box joints came out irregular and needed shims to fit.

4. Even with taping and labeling each front piece I managed to place the bottom in the middle and the middle in the bottom spot during glue up. When I tried to take the bottom out I snapped two box joints. Reglued and looks fine.

Overall it turned out really well and I am happy with it.
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Catfishdan

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Location
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That's very cool but how did you decide where to nail it with brads and where to rely on glue alone? I'd be very apprehensive about cutting or routing anything with brad nails unless I was certain they were far away from any cutting blade or bit.

Thanks. I used 18g brads all the way to the edge. Table saw cut right through them and the router missed them because they were in the center of the plank. If there is a next time, I won’t use brads on the outside pieces.
 

slodat

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Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,682
Location
Central-ish, WA
Made this for the lady. She liked it.

Inlay of two species. The base is some mahogany I’ve been laughing around for a decade or three. The inlay is an unknown species. Had to work with what I had on hand. Super fun project.

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topcok88

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Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
Got back to work on my out feed table. Progress has been slower than I would like but that’s how it goes around here. Pictured is the torsion box top sitting upside down on my under wing storage cabinet. Dominos are used for alignment, Titebond 3 glue and I will throw pocket holes in it as my red neck clamps. The dados are cut using a WhiteSide plywood bit and will be used for shelves to hold some HF organizers. Looking forward to getting this done so I can start working on a MFT inspired table to make breaking down and sizing plywood easier.
IMG_5234.jpgIMG_5235.jpg


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topcok88

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Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
Jar: Very nice. I too like the lighter color and grain.

Wrapping up the out feed table. A few coats of wipe on poly (satin) to add a little durability and I will add some paste wax later. I really like wipe on poly but I do want to try hard wax oil in the future to see if I can reduce the odor from these finishes. I’m going to use the moveable shelves to test some brush on poly-shades. Shop furniture is typically the place I will try different router profiles, drawer joints and finishes prior to using it else where.
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Once again used elevator bolts on the casters to maintain a low profile. Looking forward to starting on my MFT but first I need to finish a pergola... But that is all steel and Trex so it will be in its own thread.


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