Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

CRSINMICH · May 16, 2020

Gezginite: Don't overlook used or vintage tools. I have some vintage Stanley hand planes that perform as well as the new planes I own. I was able to buy them for $25 - $50. The same goes for chisels. I have chisels made by Marples, Stanley, Greenlee (my favorite), and AE Berg and the most expensive one by far was only $25. Of course, if you go that route you'll may have to recondition them.

I mentioned Berg for a specific reason. They are excellent edge tools that were made in Sweden. I just found out today that they were exported to Denmark because at that time Denmark was not making steel. There are probably quite a few EA Berg tools in Denmark.

As far as hand planes go, look for Stanley (U.S.A., Canada, or England), Record, or Marples. Curiously, I also discovered today that EA Berg also exported plane blades to Denmark which were used by a famous Danish plane maker. I don't remember the name.

I didn't mention hand saws previously but you will need at least two; a rip saw and a crosscut saw. Here in U.S.A. the vintage saw maker's name to look for is Disston. I can't recommend a maker from your area but a good starting place is to look for Sheffield on the blade. Sheffield, England has been known for quality steel for hundreds of years. There were countless edge tool makers there.

ez-duzit · May 16, 2020

For hand saws I'd look at the better Japanese saws, even the razor saws. Also their chisels.

riceaterSLC · May 20, 2020

turbowoodworker said:
Varathane brand, avail at Lowe's. Good as any I've used.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

Spacey_G · May 29, 2020

I have a couple of new machines on the way - a Powermatic 60HH jointer and 15HH planer. I'm looking for some advice on how to get these off the pallets and set up. They're both far too heavy to lift by myself and I'm not comfortable doing it with help either. One hernia repair was enough for me.

My tentative plan is to use an engine hoist to put the jointer bed on the stand and to lift the planer off the pallet. The planer should be no problem. It has four lifting rods that pull out.

The jointer I'm not sure about. I understand you're not supposed to lift a jointer by the tables since it puts a lot of stress on the dovetail ways. So the question is how to rig the lifting straps. It looks I could maybe pass them under the body of the jointer, but it would be a lot more stable and safer to pass them under the tables right next to the body. Would that be an acceptable way of lifting this kind of jointer? A lot less torque on the ways compared to lifting at the end of the tables.

Any other tips or suggestions would be appreciated. I'll be going slow and not taking any risks.

250 · May 31, 2020

When I've moved my PM 60, I've taken the wings off. I think you're correct in that just under the body would be too tippy. With the PM 60, there is the acme screw assembly that also holds things together, so I probably wouldn't feel bad putting some straps around the wings right next to the body and lift the wings and main casting as one unit. As long as the load stays static, I think you'll be fine. YMMV.

Don't know what your shop dynamics are, but this is the time to put a mobile base on it if you're thinking it might need to move in the future.

Spacey_G · Jun 1, 2020

I think under the wings is how I'll do it. I set up the engine hoist and tried out some straps today and it should work well.

The mobile base is already out in the shop ready to go. I'll put the stand right onto it and then use the hoist to lift the body/wings onto the stand.

ez-duzit · Jun 1, 2020

Spacey_G said:
...I understand you're not supposed to lift a jointer by the tables since it puts a lot of stress on the dovetail ways...

Just don't lift it at the ends of the tables.

MetalBuildingFun · Jun 1, 2020

We have a super flat laminate kitchen island counter top that was finished all around someone sold to us on Craigslist a few years ago. We built a rolling storage shelf for a few tools like table saw, planer, etc. We use the top for flat work when we need a flat surface. It is amazingly flat and we couldn't believe it when we set a marble in the center of it and it didn't roll anywhere.

Then we removed a little wall between the kitchen/dining area which had a small laminate counter top on it as well, we built another smaller rolling storage shelf with it too. That one is my sit down work area. I can't stand for long periods of time so it works for me to do my sanding on small stuff. Another great tool for the garage. The frame to that wall became a perfect garden planter, it was exactly 48 inches square, lol. The only waste was the drywall and screws.

jar944 · Jun 17, 2020

Finished this media console up.
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turbowoodworker · Jun 17, 2020

Great color and execution.

Dave455 · Jun 17, 2020

Gezginite said:
I have been interested in begin to do some woodworking lately.
I have no woodworking tools and are going to buy everything from the bottom (and are interested in buying everything of the best of the best (where money is no issue, but kept realistic) and was thinking about if there already was a thread in garagejournal with this discussion (just could'nt find it by using the search function) so was wondering if any have seen a discussion about the topic, so I don't ask the same questions again.

There are not a huge number of woodworking discussions here, but those that are seen to be pitched at the right level for me, as I’m a vehicle and machine enthusiast first, and a woodworker by necessity, though I do enjoy the jobs I take on!

You don’t need a lot to get started. Some marking tools (tape/rule/square) some cutting tools (handsaw) some shaping tools (maybe a plane and some chisels) and some “fixing together” tools (drill, drill bits, screwdrivers, hammer).

Traditionally, there has been a huge selection of decent “mid range” woodworking tools available. In recent years though, we seem have gone to the extremes. Makers like Stanley, who formerly produced decent tools, now make very low quality items, and much is not fit for the intended purpose. There is no shortage of top quality stuff available, but it’s very costly!

I also suggest buying used. I’m lucky in that I have used tool dealers locally, and could get a lot of things straight away at fair prices. eBay might work for you, there is certainly a lot on U.K. eBay, but I can’t speak for Denmark.

Get back to me if you would like advice on specific tools!

tymbo · Jun 17, 2020

jar944 said:
Finished this media console up.
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Looks great! but... it will eventually sag in the middle with no support.

jar944 · Jun 17, 2020

tymbo said:
Looks great! but... it will eventually sag in the middle with no support.

The one piece back set in a full rebate will keep it from sagging.

If I thought it would sag i'd have put center supports and a valance I front like I did for this unit. Didnt want that look here though.
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turbowoodworker · Jun 17, 2020

Jar,
I have no worries that your work would sag but if one were to worry, a block, like a fifth leg in the back middle would not be seen. But I doubt that would sag any way. Congrats on another beautiful piece.
Rick :beer:

jar944 · Jul 6, 2020

Played musical chairs with my shaper location. Not close to ideal, but better than it was.

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Bigblockyeti · Jul 6, 2020

You wanna talk less than ideal, I think I've got you beat. Not visible are a couple of drill presses, another bandsaw, 12" disc/belt sander and cyclonic dust collector. Yeah, it's a mess!

jar944 · Jul 6, 2020

Bigblockyeti said:
You wanna talk less than ideal, I think I've got you beat. Not visible are a couple of drill presses, another bandsaw, 12" disc/belt sander and cyclonic dust collector. Yeah, it's a mess!

Looks like my last garage :lol:

Bigblockyeti · Jul 6, 2020

My last garage was as bad but I also had a basement, full attic, shed, and a shop with it's own attic to store **** in. I undertook a huge divestment in random stuff to move from OH and it was well, well worth it. When my current shed build is done, I'll increase my storage area by almost 80% over just the garage alone so I can actually knock out some wood working projects.

jonshonda · Jul 8, 2020

Finished up the woodworking portion of the mailbox post project. Used a highly tuned craftsman 113.xxxxx table saw to rip down 1x material to wrap with 6x6 post, and to make the trim. It worked great!

20200708_191436 by Jon S, on Flickr

turbowoodworker · Jul 11, 2020

Hey all, I have a question. Has any one ever tried using nitric acid on wood other than maple?
This is an historical technique for staining fiddleback maple in gunsmithing. Think 1760s. Nitric acid and heat applied followed by stain, in that case a mixture of walnut husks, iron filings and whatever else they had laying around.
I have used this on reproduction flintlock rifles of 1760-70 made of maple and it really makes the grain standout.
Today I was working on a project in mahogany with some really wavy and crazy grain and got to thinking if anyone had tried this with mahogany.
Just curious.

Bigblockyeti · Jul 12, 2020

Not sure if this would be better suited in the chainsaw thread or here but I'm out of real estate so I have to go vertical with any storage projects. I slapped this together with concrete forms and some hardwood flooring samples, it turned out slightly better than expected.

1Garageman · Jul 13, 2020

^^Nice job on the chainsaw tower! That does save a lot of room in your garage.

turbowoodworker · Jul 13, 2020

Any one not familiar with the nitric acid technique, here is an example of the results. The fiddleback rays or grain are really accentuated.
Thanks, Rick

fartymarty · Jul 13, 2020

turbowoodworker said:
Any one not familiar with the nitric acid technique, here is an example of the results. The fiddleback rays or grain are really accentuated.
Thanks, Rick

From the responses so far ( :dunno:

) it looks like you're going to be the expert around here on using it on walnut. When you're finished photos would be nice. :rocker:

Good luck and be careful working with that stuff!

turbowoodworker · Jul 13, 2020

That's what I figured but there are so many with diverse experiences on here, I thought I would try.
It wasn't so much that I need to know but a fleeting thought (brain fart). I had never heard it being used on anything besides maple. And I wasn't going to try it on a completed project in mahogany.
So if I ever do try it, I'll be sure and post.
:beer:

purplezr2 · Jul 13, 2020

jar944 said:
Maybe more 101 related..

When fitting inset doors and drawers I initially trim them to fit tight to the opening (I build them about 1/8" oversized)

While I expect everything to be square, I plan for a bit of wiggle just in case it doesn't work out perfectly.

In this case everything was square (well almost there was one corner that was 1/64th out)

The tight fit allows me to take 1/16 or in my case .080" off each edge leaving the same reveals all around.

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Do you have more pictures of this,

What joiner method did you use of the the corners, doors look like rail and stile.

chrislehr · Jul 14, 2020

Garbage bin lockup completed!! Needs paint and some rivets on roof connections.

SarcasticDwarf · Jul 15, 2020

I need to replace the lower portion and base for a dozen columns in the next month. They must be painted to match, but is it possible to do this with PT wood (1x8's)? Or should I go with non-PT? Location is near Fargo, so lots of snow, rain, etc.

turbowoodworker · Jul 15, 2020

I don’t think PT will be bothered by paint, may take a couple of coats.

56vette461 · Jul 16, 2020

Stain kilz on the PT will keep the treatment from bleeding through the paint. Stain Kilz works on both oil based and water based PT chemicals

jar944 · Jul 16, 2020

purplezr2 said:
Do you have more pictures of this,

What joiner method did you use of the the corners, doors look like rail and stile.

The doors are just standard cope and stick. I didn't bother to take pics of those doors, but here are some similar
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Sticking

Coping

jar944 · Jul 21, 2020

Building more doors and drawers. There is some curl in a small portion of that stack that was irritating to machine.

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ez-duzit · Jul 21, 2020

4--you've been a busy boy.

purplezr2 · Jul 21, 2020

Jar944

You do woodworking for a living. That is alot of doors. You have a clamping fixture?

jar944 · Jul 21, 2020

purplezr2 said:
Jar944

You do woodworking for a living. That is alot of doors. You have a clamping fixture?

84 to be exact (34 doors, 31 drawers, 7 appliance panels and 12 end panels)

No, not what I do for a living. Dont have a clamping table, but I have a pile of air cylinders and solenoids here that may be temporarily repurposed into one.

purplezr2 · Jul 22, 2020

jar944 said:
84 to be exact (34 doors, 31 drawers, 7 appliance panels and 12 end panels)

No, not what I do for a living. Dont have a clamping table, but I have a pile of air cylinders and solenoids here that may be temporarily repurposed into one.

End panels like the end of the cabinet that faces out? How does that construction work, just make the face frame wider and it attached to the plywood box side?

jar944 · Jul 22, 2020

purplezr2 said:
End panels like the end of the cabinet that faces out? How does that construction work, just make the face frame wider and it attached to the plywood box side?

The faceframe to end panel corners are miters (lock or just straight 45degree).

The Face frames are still the same width on the corners, the side panels are glued at the miter then when assembled glued to the box.

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turbowoodworker · Jul 22, 2020

Impressive, Jar. I have pulled most of my hair out trying to set up those lock miters perfectly but those are, well, perfect!
Rick

rlitman · Jul 22, 2020

turbowoodworker said:
Impressive, Jar. I have pulled most of my hair out trying to set up those lock miters perfectly but those are, well, perfect!
Rick

+1. Those can be quite frustrating to get just right, and they’re just right.

jar944 · Jul 22, 2020

turbowoodworker said:
Impressive, Jar. I have pulled most of my hair out trying to set up those lock miters perfectly but those are, well, perfect!
Rick

I have a dial indicator and caliper at all times when I'm setting up any machine for a milling processes. It makes it a relatively quick process

Lockmiters are still a pain though

Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

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