Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[raskal]

The SO is thinking a wood countertop island would be nice

Has anyone done one before and can offer advice? Primarily, I'm wondering about durability, like what will the wood look like after a year of use.

As for finish, epoxy would probably be the most durable, but it's very plastic looking.

any thoughts are welcome. Thanks

 

[drivesitfar]

Raskal: I can't say i've seen a lot (or any) wood kitchen countertops in almost 30 years of selling new and used homes, BUT one of our members who built his own mill just finished one made out of PECAN that looks amazing cause he also restored a vintage sink and stove.

here's the link to Bobby's thread and he just posted pictures of his kitchen this last week: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250691

GOOD LUCK!!

 

[ez-duzit]

If you top-coat the epoxy with matte finish polyurethane varnish it won't look so plasticky.
Another way is to rub out the gloss using steel wool.

 

[rlitman]

The SO is thinking a wood countertop island would be nice

Has anyone done one before and can offer advice? Primarily, I'm wondering about durability, like what will the wood look like after a year of use.

As for finish, epoxy would probably be the most durable, but it's very plastic looking.

any thoughts are welcome. Thanks

I had an Ikea "butcherblock" top on my island for a few years. Nothing but USP food grade mineral oil was used to treat it.

It's surprisingly easy to clean in a kitchen. Pour on a few tablespoons of kosher (coarse grade) salt, and pour some lemon juice onto the salt to make a paste. Rub this all over the wood. The salt turns grey and the wood returns to looking like absolutely new, all while your skin gets exfoliated. After wiping down, re-oil, and repeat as needed.

Of course, that's a lot more work than the granite that replaced it. But oiled wood will hold up better than most clear finishes, because it is so easily renewed.

 

[jar944]

I have mahogany countertops in my pantry. I was going to do the same on my kitchen island. We decided against it as we have had granite for years and decided against the extra maintenance and the overall fragility of wood.

 

[Renegade1LI]

For removing old sanding disc adhesive brake cleaner works pretty good,but usually I heat the disc up with the heat gun & they peel right off.

 

[drivesitfar]

thank you all for the tips on how to use and remove that sandpaper on the round disk and maybe i'll change the one on mine and use it more. i kinda recall that it was glued or special paper, but didn't want to relay bad info since I wasn't sure.

anybody in the PNW have a pile of old wood beams 16-20 foot long they'd like to sell please PM me.

thanks

 

[acer66]

I need/want to dry some freshly cut boxelder disks ~6” diameter around an inch or so thick.
I read some ayes and nays on the interweb about drying it in an oven.
Anyone on here that can shed some light on that?

Thank you.

 

[Toolfool]

Kiln drying usually involves low temp heat and air movement.

 

[acer66]

Kiln drying usually involves low temp heat and air movement.

I have convection that goes as low as 170deg and it also has a proof, warming lo/hi function but no convection in those settings.

 

[Woody1320]

Picked up this Japanese block plane. I've only tinkered with it a bit (and I really have nothing to compare it to), but for 13 bucks I like it. I may try to pick up a larger one as it is definitely a bit more cost effective as I attempt to venture deeper into hand tool woodworking.

 

[raskal]

Picked up this Japanese block plane. I've only tinkered with it a bit (and I really have nothing to compare it to), but for 13 bucks I like it. I may try to pick up a larger one as it is definitely a bit more cost effective as I attempt to venture deeper into hand tool woodworking.

online purchase? Store?

 

[Woody1320]

online purchase? Store?

My apologies. It was an Amazon purchase.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Woody: You should also post your plane on the "Show Us Your Handplanes" thread.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277733&page=41

 

[Jim C.]

The SO is thinking a wood countertop island would be nice

Has anyone done one before and can offer advice? Primarily, I'm wondering about durability, like what will the wood look like after a year of use.

As for finish, epoxy would probably be the most durable, but it's very plastic looking.

any thoughts are welcome. Thanks

Raskal: I can't say i've seen a lot (or any) wood kitchen countertops in almost 30 years of selling new and used homes....

Although it’s not the primary subject of the photo, my kitchen island top is made of solid walnut with oak inlays. I made it about twenty years ago. While it’s not my favorite way to finish a project, I applied five coats of urethane, and it held up very well with small kids who eventually became teenagers with friends. It’s been through several family/friends parties, puzzles, family game nights and typical kitchen activities. The island top gets daily use and still looks good. The only thing to avoid is direct heat. Any sort of hot plate/pot/pan, etc. must have some kind of insulation between it and the island top.

Jim C.

 

[drivesitfar]

JIM: it looks like you put a dining table in the middle of your kitchen. sounds like it worked out and a lot of happy people stopped by to grab a meal there too.

ALL: one of our members made this butcher block top for his kitchen island and since he posted it on his thread I thought i'd post a few pics of it here. I think it really makes his remodeled kitchen look even better.

any of you make butcher block countertops or workbenches? pics?

 

[CRSINMICH]

drives: I hesitate to post this because it really makes no difference but, the countertop you posted is not butcher block. It's laminated. It's also beautiful and well worth praising. Butcher block has the end grain facing up. I'm not sure why but it was the way it was done on those heavy, squat chopping tables in old timey butchers' shops. Like I said, it makes no difference so everyone should feel free to call that type of lay up by any name they choose. It's only a few old cranks (like me) who will care or even notice; just don't get me started about saying 'finger joints' when it should be 'box joints'.

Odd, but related, fact: For a short time, Stanley made a plane specifically for re-flattening butchers' tables.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Butcher block has the end grain facing up. I'm not sure why but it was the way it was done on those heavy, squat chopping tables in old timey butchers' shops...

Butcher block has the end grain facing up so that, when you cut or chop, you are not severing wood fibers (like chopping down a tree), which would then become loose and free to contaminate the meat, also destroying the butcher block in the process.

With the end grain, the block is self-healing.

 

[drivesitfar]

CRS: it might not matter much what we call it, but it certainly is good to learn why it's called what it is and why. if we quit learning we die so i'm happy to be corrected and learn why it's not butcherblock.

thanks for clarifying!!

 

[Jim C.]

JIM: it looks like you put a dining table in the middle of your kitchen. sounds like it worked out and a lot of happy people stopped by to grab a meal there too.......

Yeah, it’s a little higher than a traditional dining room table, and is actually level with the counter tops at 36”.

drives: ........Odd, but related, fact: For a short time, Stanley made a plane specifically for re-flattening butchers' tables.

The Stanley #64. I’m sure you already know that unless you find one at a garage sale, it’ll cost you big $$$$.

Jim C.

 

[CRSINMICH]

drives: You're welcome.

ez: I've also heard that end grain will not dull the edges of cleavers and knives as fast as cross grain.

Jim C: I knew the plane number and that they're expensive. I'm hoping for an uninformed widow who's getting rid of her husband's old rusty tools; not that I'd take advantage of her or anything like that

 

[Renegade1LI]

drives: I hesitate to post this because it really makes no difference but, the countertop you posted is not butcher block. It's laminated. It's also beautiful and well worth praising. Butcher block has the end grain facing up. I'm not sure why but it was the way it was done on those heavy, squat chopping tables in old timey butchers' shops. Like I said, it makes no difference so everyone should feel free to call that type of lay up by any name they choose. It's only a few old cranks (like me) who will care or even notice; just don't get me started about saying 'finger joints' when it should be 'box joints'.

Odd, but related, fact: For a short time, Stanley made a plane specifically for re-flattening butchers' tables.

Actually they are both butcher block, one is end grain and the other is edge grain, both are butcher block. Take a look at this page, it explains it pretty good https://butcherblockco.com/custom-c...zBs516A7zWl0w_w0aC1IlstkyUaIMH_EaApu2EALw_wcB
https://www.armanifinewoodworking.com/edge-grain-vs-end-grain-butcher-block-countertops/

I do agree about the old butchers and blacksmiths using edge grain style as being a traditional BB but either one is.

 

[pkpk]

This thread has been quiet so I thought I'd give it a bump! First off is a photo of a couple basic shelves I mentioned a few pages back, made with 2x scraps and a 1x10 top, roundovers everywhere and then some spray lacquer for a little glow. Nothing fancy but the total cost was only about $10-15 which is nice.

Next I do wanna try something a little more fancy, floating shelves... I picked up a book at the library, "Build Stuff with Wood" by Asa Christiana, which has a chapter on floating shelves. I've attached a shot of his basic plan. I feel stupid asking, this author does seem competent, but are floating shelves really that straightforward? Sandwich solid wood strips between thin plywood, then attach that to a wall cleat? I was thinking I'd miter the corners of the strips to hide the end grain, or attach a thin face of solid wood to the front and sides for a cleaner look with no plywood edges. And maybe softening the corners with a curve instead of a right angle.

I wanna move beyond using just softwoods (though I have plenty of small/thin scraps that could be used for the insides) and work with nicer plywood, and finally put this Dewalt planer I got during Amazon's Black Friday sale into action, since I have some rough-sawn walnut and oak boards to use. So as usual any advice would be appreciated!

 

[CRSINMICH]

pkpk: Your shelves came out looking good. There is a nice airy quality to them. I can see why you question the strength of those floating shelves. I do too. Floating shelves seem to be popular right now. I think there are other ways of hanging them but I've never done a shelf that way.

Your choice of plants is good too. I have had that same variety of sanseveria since 1974. They aren't called cast iron plants for nothing.

 

[topcok88]

PKPK - floating shelves really are that easy. My mantle is boxed out and mitered. The box slides over a block mounted on the wall and two screws from the top and bottom hold it on the wall. The ones on either side of the fireplace slide over blocks and are attached the same way. The shelves are 3/4” walnut on both faces and about 3” thick: the mantle is 4.5” thick. You’ll be fine, the are incredibly strong and I can’t imagine you are going to be storing engine blocks on them.




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[250]

The SO is thinking a wood countertop island would be nice

Has anyone done one before and can offer advice? Primarily, I'm wondering about durability, like what will the wood look like after a year of use.

As for finish, epoxy would probably be the most durable, but it's very plastic looking.

any thoughts are welcome. Thanks

We had a butcher block, laminated island top in our last house. I'd guess we had it about 4 yrs before we sold the house. Purchased a 'slab' from lumber liquidators if I remember correctly. Used mineral oil as a finish and I'd recoat it once a month.

Overall we liked it, and it was really inexpensive. But it is vulnerable to staining. I made some butcherblock tops for my shop tables out of reclaimed flooring and covered it with the left over poly from the floors. It was semi-gloss and they've done ok, but they've stained too and are prone to chipping. I'd do both again, YMMV.

 

[raskal]

Hi all

Thanks a lot for thoughts about a wood countertop. They all sounded positive so I will be going ahead with the project

I will definitely post when I get it done,... and based on my previous projects that should be around 2022

thanks again all!

 

[rrich1]

Just wanted to post the 99% finished jointer and mobile stand. I just got the new coil in today for the starter switch. Not sure when I'll get the time to get it installed. The jointer works as is with a direct plug into an outlet. A before pic. 7 layers of paint [emoji849].

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[d.mcfarland]

That came out beautiful! Back when tools had style.

 

[Renegade1LI]

The jointer looks good! I love old iron, always looking for something, it's great when you see someone take the time to restore an old tool.

 

[turbowoodworker]

I had some scrap mahogany laying around and decided to do a little wood and metal project:

 

[turbowoodworker]

So some mahogany strips, a small piece of ply, some stainless strips and cheap Zoro bolts over vinyl wrap. Here are the steps of how it came together:

 

[rrich1]

Turbo- how big is that? It came out really nice.

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[Indexmill]

So some mahogany strips, a small piece of ply, some stainless strips and cheap Zoro bolts over vinyl wrap. Here are the steps of how it came together:

Very beautiful. Thank you.

 

[Notgrownup]

Rrich1, that came out really good...
Turbowoodworker, very nice work

 

[turbowoodworker]

rrich, it is about 16-17x 24" approx. If you need exact dimensions, I can get it for you. I searched for US flag dimensions and found specific parameters or multiplication factors for width, length, star spacing and stripe width. Who knew it was that precise.
Like this:

https://www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/

Thanks for looking.
Rick

 

[drivesitfar]

RR: nice work on the planer!!

Turbo: great work and neat project!!

I noticed the base on your drill press looked even more amazing. care to share a few pics of it?

 

[turbowoodworker]

Drives, I will get some pics later today but it is a basic add on (bolts to standard DP table) from Incra or Woodpeckers, MLCS or Rockler.
Not mine but from www:

https://www.bing.com/images/search?...dex=0&FORM=IRPRST&idpp=overlayview&ajaxhist=0

 

[drivesitfar]

Turbo: thanks. with your skills I thought you made it, but I bet sometimes it's just easier to buy something that works.

would you buy it again if you needed it or would you make one or buy something else?

I don't have room for something that big in my small space, but maybe i will in a couple years if the plan works out.

 

[turbowoodworker]

It really does not increase the foot print of the DP unless you are right up against the wall. I have it on a cheap and old Chinese DP that I use exclusively for WW. (I have a better DP in the auto/metal working area).

That said, I find the fence very helpful and quick to adjust for wood. I use it a lot. I do not use the hold downs as much but the Incra stop (as seen in the www photo) comes in handy too for repetitive drilling.
Yah it can be easily shop made, but I think I got it at a ww show many years ago with one of those "show discounts.