brianh
Well-known member
I like to use flap grinding disks for cleanup work on metal.
A friend dropped this off last night for free - I've already spent 20 minutes grinding on the top in hopes of getting it down to nice shiney steel - so far I've knocked off the worst of the grease paint and rust - but I have a long way to go.
Any recomendations on grinding discs for this task?
sorry for the low quality cell phone pic:
That Lathe looks just like my 1979 Jet Lathe, is it a Jet and what year is yours??I built this for my lathe. 2x4 legs / plywood sides and bottom screwed to legs / pegboard sliding doors. There are only 4 2x4 legs 2x4 across top and bottom on front and back, no other framing and it's plenty strong to hold a 600 lb machine
If you were closer I'd say bring it to my work. I could have the whole thing cleaned up and dead flat in about 15 - 20 min. We have a 36" x 160" linear blanchard grinder.
I also plan on cutting the legs down even and adding leveling feet if I need to move it to another area. Ive found some decent ones at mcmaster, but I thing I decided on hockey pucks and some 5/8 bolts. mcmaster part number 62805K44 if anyone is interested at $5 each Ill have just about as much in my home built ones.
Props on the corner bench. Very nice work. And thanks for the McMaster idea, I wasn't aware of them until now; after spending 20 minutes on their site I now have a go-to place for the weird **** i can't find locally (like 1/2" T-nuts... still looking for 3/4" T-nuts...)
Agreed. I'm debating if i want to cut new front legs for my bench with a set of 1/2" feet and their T-nuts in mind, instead of the allthread/2x4-foot combo i have now.Ive ordered lots of things from them and never had an issue with anything. Great company to deal with.
I only wish they had better pictures of the actually product and not just measurements. I might have pulled the trigger on their feet if I could see what they look look like and not just the generic pic they have at the top.


You know Cheese, I like the concept, but I'd have rather seen it done for a bar or something, say in a game room or "man cave" type of environment, not a work bench.and maybe not too wise.
Two part epoxy over some of my favorite old sports cards. Hopefully they weren't worth too much.
They holes in the front are to bolt on a shelf to hold my miter saw. The top and shelf were originally made with 2x6 tongue and groove left over from building our house. It's a tank.
Figured I would contribute a 3' by 4' roll around with a butcher block top I built this weekend. Still need to coat it with urethane.
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this is nice looking. and I agree, almost too nice for a garage workbench. Planning on making something simmilar to that for my kitchen in the near future
Great job
Think this is my first post here, but I threw together a bench a couple days ago for my shop (30 x 30) at our new house.
4x4 legs, 2x4 everything else. Start of the framing (added a couple cross braces under the top after I took this pic) Hard to see, but the short stringers at the top are set into notches on the 4x4s:
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Didn't take any progress pics. The top 2x4s are only 7' and the top is 8' so I have 6" free and clear on all sides at either end for clamping, and about 18" til it hits the main structure so I can clamp/add anything I need at the ends.
The top is made of Oak plywood. It's 2 sheets of 3/4" 4'x8', each cut into sections of 32" and 16". There's a layer of 32" topped by the two pieces of 16" side by side, with the second 32" wide piece on top of that. All glued together, the bottom 32" sheet is screwed to the base every 10" or so, the 16" pieces are screwed through the bottom sheet and into the structure also about every 10", just offset from the screw on the bottom piece.
The top piece of 32" Oak is put on with minimal screws (still glued and clamped though) to keep it a bit cleaner looking. So the top ends up being about 2 1/4" thick Oak plywood. The edges are trimmed out with 2.5" wide 1" thick oak strips to so it looks more finished. Gonna cover the top in either Hardboard or metal, not sure yet. In laws own a fabrication shop, so the price will be low on the metal if I go that way.
Still need to put some kind of shelving on the bottom and maybe some diagonal 2x4s on three sides to strengthen it more. Thinking of doing 2x4s across the bottoms (short way, framing still, maybe 6" on center) instead of plywood so it doesn't stay as dusty and grimy under there. Will probably use that to store extra lumber.
I've got a couple sets of scaffolding casters I want to add to the table in a way that they are removable. That way I can move it but still have the stability of the legs sitting where ever I put it when I really want to hammer on it.
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Bench ended up like 33.5" x 97.5" with the trim.
Why use oak plywood if you're going to cover it with metal! Oak is too pretty to cover.
I would think a few coats of a good urethane would seal it up nicely and prevent any fluids from staining it.
I'm pretty frugal - if I was going to cover the surface - I have used a cheaper substrate.
Thanks to this board though I am going to swap out the osb for plywood for my toolboard over my relocated work bench - sinc so many guys have pointed out OSB doesn't hold screws well over time.
where would one find the clips that are holding the ratchets and extensions on the flip-up top on nkachur's bench?
