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work benches... from scratch

Krokodil

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Apr 11, 2010
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South Africa
Looks nice and sturdy!

I've always wondered about open vs closed storage for tools. I guess dust has driven me to closed storage!
 
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99SVT

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Feb 5, 2010
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Looks nice and sturdy!

I've always wondered about open vs closed storage for tools. I guess dust has driven me to closed storage!

Yeah, a buddy of mine keeps telling me to put doors on the bottom. I told him I'm not a big fan of cabinets in my shop/garage. I like to be able to see what I'm looking for without having to open every freakin' cabinet to find it... 'cause 6 months from now, I'm not going to remember where I put a certain thing.
 

oldwood

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Apr 11, 2010
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3
Hello ,
I think in the 1980's , Blair & Ketchum's/ Country Journal magazine had an article on building a work bench using lumberyard lumber anybody remember what issue it was? I could not find any index on the web for that magazine your help would be appreciated . Thanks
 

99SVT

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Feb 5, 2010
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306
I hope you work in your tool cabinets more than once in 6 months!!!

Tools don't just go in cabinets... everything/anything could go in a cabinet.

I was forgetting where I put stuff in a two car garage... now I have 2400sqf. It is a whole lot worse.
 

hoopty388

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Feb 21, 2008
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720
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
this is my hammer table (built for strength for when I need to get rough with something). and will hold my anvil and vise when I quit being cheap and buy them.

it has 4X6 legs and the top is built out of 2X3's turned on their side (tall side runs up and down), and is nailed together with 3" framing nails. Saying it is strong is an understatement!!!

it has some old kitchen cabinet fronts under it now but eventually will have all drawers under it.
 

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mmhouse

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Aug 31, 2008
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754
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Desert Southwest
I originally built this bench from scrap left over when I built a home 1984. It's been rebuilt a couple of times since to accommodate different circumstances, the latest being modifying it to accept the rolling cabinets I picked up for a good price. The legs are 6x6 and the top is 1-1/8 plywood.
 

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JOHNMAN

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Aug 14, 2006
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194
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Southwest Indiana
Curious what is used here for the top layer? Looks like sheet metal bent around? If so how was this accomplished. Looks great. Im building my bench this weekend, top will be 3/4" mdf. I need something to protect it from oil. Might even epoxy it


It's stainless. It was broken to size. Part was done in Kansas City, and the rest here were I live now.

Our shop matched the ones I brought with me very well.

Most any good sheet metal shop should be able to break sheet metal to whatever you desire.

Good luck.
 

ddawg16

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Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
21,005
Location
S. California
Sides, shelfs and frames made out of gray melamine....doors and drawers are recycled from the MIL's kitchen.

All of the lower benches do not touch the ground....totally supported by the wall. Makes clean up a lot easier.

I'll be doing the tops soon....SS with a folded backsplash to keep stuff from getting lost in the cracks.

IMG00107.jpg



I'm really proud of this workbench.....it combines my radial arm saw and compound miter saw on one rip fence....I can cut 16' boards without needing support....

IMG00106.jpg
 

biscuit141

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Apr 19, 2010
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Location
Indiana
I just built my first bench 2 weeks ago. i used 3 inch desk screws to hold everything together. Now I am wondering if I should have used some type of bolt or lag screw to hold the legs to the top and shelf supports. It feels pretty sturdy. i need to build one more, should I use bolts or lags, or will screws be sufficient? I see a lot of benches uses both, and it seems most of these benches could survive a hurricane.
 

rieferman

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May 18, 2009
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Location
Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
In my opinion, as long as the downward weight is point loaded to the floor (rather than the weight being held by a fastener) you could almost put a bench together with chewing gum and it would be strong. I simply used my framing nailer with 3 inch ring nails to whip this together. Notice the top and the horizontal suports both are supported all the way to the ground. In this design, the nails are only there to keep the thing together, not to support any thing.
 

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biscuit141

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In my opinion, as long as the downward weight is point loaded to the floor (rather than the weight being held by a fastener) you could almost put a bench together with chewing gum and it would be strong.

I put together the entire top section first, then upside down I installed the legs so they were against the 3/4 plywood top and fastened them to the 2x4 top frame. Not sure if this is best. Using 4x4's as the legs as I had some lying around. Maybe I ether need to notch them or use bolts to hold the frame better?
 

rieferman

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Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
That'll work fine. Just notch the 4x4's at the top so your top rests on wood instead of fastener. That thing would outlast your house. :)

Keep in mind if it's just a table for sorting stuff and resting your coffee/beer on, no big deal. But if you want to be able to pound on it, the method just described is what I would recommend.

And, you must show pics when you're done!
 

spyghost

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Apr 8, 2010
Messages
16
what do you think about the "best" workbench? http://www.workbenchplans.net/workbench-designs.html

what happened in the design was, additional cuts of 2x4's were added on all the portions of the "good" one. the net effect is that everything would seem as if they were made with 4x4's. its as if everything was made out of 4x4's joined with rabbets and dadoes.
 
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mdbeck1

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Mar 7, 2010
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Norman, OK
From what I can see they build the whole thing with 2X4 using an exterior frame design. Using the "best" design they further support the stringers with additional 2X4s under them. It would be better if it were a notched out 4X4 (one solid piece instead of two) but the "best" design will hold a lot more weight and take a lot more punishment. If you don't swapout the dual 2X4s for 4X4s at least put glue between them and screw them together with decking screws.

I still have two of my three original benches and have really abused them. They are simple 4X4 legs with 2X3 stringers and a 3/4 ply top. They have one shelf supported by 2X3 stringers. They've held up well in the 15+ years that they have served me and I'm by no means nice to them.

Oh, and the "one that got away" got given to my BIL when I moved. He needed a bench and I was out of room.
 

Rustang

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Sep 3, 2006
Messages
47
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Ever have the need to get the grinding equipment out of an otherwise clean area of the shop? I had to find a place to do some grinding and sanding, so I built a "mayo stand" type of grinding center to wheel over my existing bench. I can park it out of the way over my worktable or simply use it over the table.

finishedtable.jpg


Underside
IMG00004-20100109-1131.jpg


-Jimmy
 

MarshallGirvin

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Nov 13, 2009
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100
Location
Upstate NY
I built this the other night. Would have done a few thing different had I known, but I'm super pleased with how it came out. I also stole the shelf idea from JaysinSpaceman from this thread. Such a good idea. You can't really tell from the pic but the shelves are different widths. I was so excited to get it finished that I grabbed the closest board that looked right without measuring. Oh well. It can come apart easily and I kind of like the 2 different widths anyways.
Pic:
001.jpg
 

Jeepasaurus

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Sep 18, 2009
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2
I spent a couple days researching (mainly reading this thread over and over) before I decided to build my bench.

I've been told that your fist, at your side, should rest on the top of the work bench. I measured that to be about 28" (I'm about 5'6" on a good day, when the planets are aligned and the gravitational pull is at its greatest). Working with the saw horses I have with a 3/4" piece of plywood I measured that work surface to be 30" and I liked that working height so I went with it.

I didn't want to spend a ton of money to build this but I came across a web page of a guy who built some work benches out of old bed frames. I also noticed "Seb" did the same thing in this thread. I was talking with the old man about work bench ideas and mentioned old bed frames. "I've got a bunch of those in the garage. They're yours if you want em." Sure... he always seems to have everything.

I bring the bed frames home and start planning. Turns out I didn't have to cut much. Only had to make four cuts. I found four pieces that would be the legs of the bench, measured 28" uncut. The long (width) pieces were about 69"... didn't have to cut those. The depth pieces I had to cut. I needed a top and a bottom for each side, 19.5" long. Altogether the frame of the workbench was 6' W x 28" H x 20" D.



I decided to borrow an idea from my brother-in-law when he made his bench. He made the top with 2x4's standing on end, glued and screwed together. Nice and strong. So, I wanted a bench height of 30" I was going to use 2x4's on end for the top and then I would put a 3/4" of plywood for the working surface with a 3" lip all the way around. I welded the top at 25.75" from the floor so when I put in the 2x4's and the 3/4" top it would be 30".



When the frame was all welded together it wasn't perfectly square even though we were checking as we pieced it together. We hadn't welded any angle braces to the back yet. The old man is full of ideas... suggested we took a ratchet strap and we went from the lower right front corner to the upper left back corner, tightened it up and made it square. Welded the cross braces in the back and all was good in the world.

Even though the top depth was 20" the area where the 2x4's would sit was 19.5" because of the curve on the inside corner of the angle iron and the thickness of it as well... that was perfect for 13 2x4's. The last one had to be coaxed in, but it was a perfect fit. I then lag bolted the 2x4's to the frame from the bottom at each corner.

Quick coat of primer and then a coat of flat black spray paint... done. It's actually heavier than I expected, which is a good thing. Now I just need to mount my vise.



Overall work surface: 6'6" wide x 26" deep
Bottom shelf: 6' wide x 19.5" deep
Working height: 30"
Total money spent: $55 on wood


Now the question is... do I paint the top white? My wife suggested if I do paint it white to use the left over "furniture paint" we have. It's suppose to be a little tougher. What do you guys think?
 
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dmeadow

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Sep 3, 2005
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Houston, Texas
I used a plan that used to be on the Sears Craftsman webpage. Not there anymore, but it was a neat plan that used double 2x4's for the legs, cutting one of them for stringers and a place to set a shelf underneath.

Plywood was used for the top, but the best part of the design was that you covered the top with 1/8" hardboard and then put 1x2 around to cover the hardboard edge. Eventually when the top got messed up with paint, goop, holes, whatever, you could just replace it with new hardboard cheaply and easily.
 

Wingnut65

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Apr 21, 2010
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Tampa Bay, FL
Now the question is... do I paint the top white? My wife suggested if I do paint it white to use the left over "furniture paint" we have. It's suppose to be a little tougher. What do you guys think?

Workbench looks great. You have come up with a creative way to re-use the old frames we usually donate away when we get a new beds.

I have been using an old counter top as a workbench over two old kitchen base cabinets. It is so convenient having the plastic laminate surface as a waterproof surface. (no welding on that top..) I love the look of wood, but with me, one clumsy move and the coffee goes flying, or the dirty parts-cleaning gasoline spills all over the workbench, is so easy to clean up right now. With me, bare wood would be stained wood quickly. When I make my next workbench, I anticipate it will also have some water repelant or waterproof surface.
 

mdbeck1

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Norman, OK
Workbench looks great. You have come up with a creative way to re-use the old frames we usually donate away when we get a new beds.

I have been using an old counter top as a workbench over two old kitchen base cabinets. It is so convenient having the plastic laminate surface as a waterproof surface. (no welding on that top..) I love the look of wood, but with me, one clumsy move and the coffee goes flying, or the dirty parts-cleaning gasoline spills all over the workbench, is so easy to clean up right now. With me, bare wood would be stained wood quickly. When I make my next workbench, I anticipate it will also have some water repelant or waterproof surface.

I used laminated plywood on all of my woodworking benches. The wood seems to slide easier (home made router table) and you can write on them (in pencil) and erase with a shop rag. Lots of advantages. Of course I'm a lot more careful not to bore a hole through it as well.
 

jr2

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Apr 19, 2005
Messages
42
Location
Snohomish, WA
Here's a bench idea I implemented...
Over the years I have acquired a bunch of counters from commercial installs I used to do. They are 1 1/2" MDF tops and are heavy duty. I have used them that way for years but a few years back I was given this Commercial Fridge/Freezer. It is the style with tray slots from top to bottom.(Prep fridge?)
IMG_4454.jpg

For a couple years it worked as a tool box with adjustable shelves. But the time came that it took more space then it was worth. So I gutted the doors of their insulating value and turned them into this:
IMG00109-20100301-2218.jpg

IMG00102-20100228-1225.jpg

Got my stainless counters for free!! I'll make up a back splash down the road or leave it. Gotta like it for FREE!
 

rwhite692

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Mar 4, 2008
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Location
Central Valley, CA
If you can find some, bowling lane material is some awesome stuff for making work benches.

I just built the bench in these pics using some that was removed from Granada Hills Bowl in southern California.

I scored two sheets of it which are each 4' wide x 8' 3" long. Each sheet weighs around 250 pounds. I ripped one of them to 30" to make my bench top because I didn't want my bench to be "deeper" than that, front-to-back. The frame is 2" square steel tubing.

I will have to take some better pics but, you get the idea.

2130965620011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


2264832390011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


2115601350011691741S600x600Q85.jpg
 

yamaharacing21

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May 12, 2010
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102
Location
Michigan
Re: Here are a couple I recently built

First is a near complete 8 ft bench on Casters I made for a Stainless Top I picked up on sale at Sears for the top only.
The frame I built with 2 x 4s, Pocket Hole Screws, clamps and Glue. This resulted in a frame with no Flex compared to the first frame I built with just Screws. I have since added shelf on botton (3/4" birch) and removed the plastic film.

<a href="http://s272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/btskaggs/?action=view&current=DSC03530.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/btskaggs/DSC03530.jpg" border="0" alt="8ftBench"></a>

Second is a 4 foot also on Casters built with Kreg's Pocket hole screws, clamps, and glue for frame. I used Oak Shelf material 3/4" thick for top and then trimmed top with 1" x 2" Oak (not yet sealed in this picture). Also very rigid structure.

<a href="http://s272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/btskaggs/?action=view&current=DSC03532.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/btskaggs/DSC03532.jpg" border="0" alt="4ftBench"></a>

After building these two, I think I will rebuild my first 8ft x 30" bench with Glue and pocket hole screws.
more pics of the stang! :bounce:
 

Steevo

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If you can find some, bowling lane material is some awesome stuff for making work benches.

I just built the bench in these pics using some that was removed from Granada Hills Bowl in southern California.

I scored two sheets of it which are each 4' wide x 8' 3" long. Each sheet weighs around 250 pounds. I ripped one of them to 30" to make my bench top because I didn't want my bench to be "deeper" than that, front-to-back. The frame is 2" square steel tubing.

I bet I bowled on your workbenches!
I grew up in the San Fernando Valley and bowled at Granada Lanes many times as a teen.
 

PassnThru

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Jan 5, 2010
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6,510
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Bowling Green KY
Here's a bench idea I implemented...

IMG00102-20100228-1225.jpg

Got my stainless counters for free!! I'll make up a back splash down the road or leave it. Gotta like it for FREE!

Cool (no pun intended :lol_hitti). How did you hide the holes from the handles? Or was it stainless inside the door also? I see holes on the edge - were the doors attached there?
 

jgbrueck

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Nov 15, 2005
Messages
13
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Howdy! Long-time lurker, not a lot of posts, but...

I just finished making my latest bench, and I'm kind of proud of it, so I had to share. Just as rwhite692 above, I heartily recommend used bowling lane. I managed to score 7 slabs of lane, approx. 7' each. I've built my first bench, and learned a lot of what NOT to do. Came out pretty well, though, and it should make the next ones easier.

I stole ideas liberally from this board, and combined a lot of ideas. I have a 30x40 "shop" in the backyard, and I think I need about 3-4 of these benches along my "bench wall". The opposite side is my "shelving wall". Doors are on the short ends (unfortunate for cars, but what can I do? It was here when I got here...)

I made my bench 28" wide by 6' long, with both casters and feet. That way, I can leave it stable against a wall, or I can raise the feet and move the bench where I need it in the shop.

Top is the bowling lane, with the polyurethane stripped off, and refinished with tung oil. Base is 2x2 square tubing. I still need to put a shelf on the lower legs of the bench, which will be 3/4" plywood finished in a dark grey stain, I think. That'll match my toolboxes/shelves.

The first picture is in mid-build, and the last couple are the finished product. Sorry for the somewhat fuzzy pictures...

JGBrueck
 

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rwhite692

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Mar 4, 2008
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JG, that bench looks plenty stout, nice Job!

I particularly like the casters. I take it that you screw in/out the round "feet" in order to transfer the weight to (or from) the casters?
 
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jgbrueck

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Nov 15, 2005
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Location
Gilbert, AZ
RWhite,

Casters I got from Grizzly Industrial Supply; someone else on the board was going to use them (can't remember who), and they looked perfect! They all swivel, and I got locking casters for 1 side of the bench, non-locking for the other. They were about $10 apiece for the casters, so didn't break the bank. The mounts for those are 2" angle iron sistererd together to make a "T", then welded onto the bottom of the lower braces.

The "feet" I got from McMaster-Carr. They're 1/2-13 thread and 2" tall, I think. I welded a nut on the bottom of the legs, and they just screw in/out so I can level the bench. I think they're rated for 550 lbs apiece, so they should hold up to whatever I can think of to put on the bench. I screwed up a little in my measurements so the feet have to be pretty much ALL the way up to get the bench sitting on the casters... Whoops. Next bench I'll move those lower suports down about 1 inch. Live and learn.
 

Tomwall

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Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
15
Saw this thread and figured I could put up a few pics of my bench that I recently built. :beer:
 

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69charged

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Sep 20, 2007
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469
Location
carberry, manitoba
this is my bench i finished up yesterday. this thread inspired me to finish it!!:thumbup:
i kinda built the frame before but we moved so i never got to complete it. i still have to put a drawer in it for all my grinding tools and discs but other than that its done.

P1100499.jpg


my helper!!

P1100496.jpg


P1100498.jpg


P1100492.jpg
 

WSMC633

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Jul 20, 2008
Messages
484
Location
Los Angeles, CA
If you can find some, bowling lane material is some awesome stuff for making work benches.

I just built the bench in these pics using some that was removed from Granada Hills Bowl in southern California.

I scored two sheets of it which are each 4' wide x 8' 3" long. Each sheet weighs around 250 pounds. I ripped one of them to 30" to make my bench top because I didn't want my bench to be "deeper" than that, front-to-back. The frame is 2" square steel tubing.

I will have to take some better pics but, you get the idea.

2130965620011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


2264832390011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


2115601350011691741S600x600Q85.jpg




Hahahaha I grew up in Granada Hills. Bowled there many many times. :beer:
 

jonescafe72

Active member
Joined
Apr 11, 2009
Messages
30
Location
Wichita
Here are a couple shots of my "new" bench. It's 9'6" long, and 36" wide. All steel, and I paid a hefty $75 for it, and it was delivered for free! I know it wasn't built from scratch by me, but I don't know that I could have built it for any cheaper.
IMG_2724.jpg


After a fresh coat of enamel:
IMG_2729.jpg


It currently has a drill press, band saw, bench grinder, and vise mounted, and still has room for a motorcycle on top!
 

jr2

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Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Messages
42
Location
Snohomish, WA
Cool (no pun intended :lol_hitti). How did you hide the holes from the handles? Or was it stainless inside the door also? I see holes on the edge - were the doors attached there?
No worries.. It was a "COOL" :spit: project..

I had to make a decision on the hole options.

There were:
  • 2 handle holes on each door on the front for opening (which would end up on top of the counter) Didn't want that.(but I did use the handles for another project.)
  • There were large holes on the opposite edge from the hinges from the lock mechanism that was on both doors.
  • Hinge holes on one side of each door (which would end up on the front edge?) Those were the smallest and easiest to live with.

I chose to live with the small hinge screw holes to the front and ended up cutting of the back flange anyway so the large lockset holes are gone. I just put some of the original stainless cap screws that held the door together in them with a little silicone. They look fine and match to boot. You can see the holes on the right side by the corner. No screws in that pic but...you get the idea. (Just in case anyone is worried, if you see that the counter looks warped on top, these pictures were taken before I stuck it down with silicone to the counter top.)
IMG00102-20100228-1225-1.jpg
 
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