mattthemuppet
Well-known member
That’s going to be an awesome space when you’re done. Are the doors insulated and sealed? That made a big difference to my garage
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Workshop Build 30x30x12 Ocala, FL
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
That is another thing that I need to address. The builder would not change the doors so I got regular ones installed. Not sure if to try to modify them or replace them with insulated units... Thoughts?
mattthemuppet
Well-known member
You can buy insulation panel kits that snap into the panels on the doors - they make a big difference and don’t cost much ($100-200). A friend in Texas put a set on his fits that see direct sun and the difference was amazing. Probably not as much as proper insulated doors but a lot less money.
Sealing the gaps makes a big difference too - I have an external lip seal on top and sides plus an extra lip seal on the inside at the top
Sealing the gaps makes a big difference too - I have an external lip seal on top and sides plus an extra lip seal on the inside at the top
Access hole made... turn out to be 19"x21". Insulation company told me that was enough for them to do the work. I did get three quotes on the insulation work, all were around the same cost. Scheduled with the first one I called and they will be here Friday to do the job.
I will use the cutout from the access hole, put a frame on it and use it as the cover for the hole. I do not intend to go in and out, there is really no usable space up there. It will remain permanently closed.
Figured I would install some panels around the hole to hold the insulation in place...
Only three panels to go!! Well, and the trim, and the row of lights, and ....
I will use the cutout from the access hole, put a frame on it and use it as the cover for the hole. I do not intend to go in and out, there is really no usable space up there. It will remain permanently closed.
Figured I would install some panels around the hole to hold the insulation in place...
Only three panels to go!! Well, and the trim, and the row of lights, and ....
Ceiling is done!!
And the last section just finished
I will install the last line of LED lights after they do the insulation Friday. Oh, and the cover to the access hole. I need to get some 1"x3" to make a frame for the cover.
And the last section just finished
I will install the last line of LED lights after they do the insulation Friday. Oh, and the cover to the access hole. I need to get some 1"x3" to make a frame for the cover.
Well, the insulation company called to see if they could stop today... Insulation is done!!!
I told them that they could drive the truck all the way to the workshop, but by then they already had the hose setup...
Obviously I was not going to have a beer in the middle of a work day, but I wanted the photo of having a beer while they did the work, lol.
They were done in no time... wow! But so glad that I did not have to do this...
Now to finish the frame to close off the access opening.
I told them that they could drive the truck all the way to the workshop, but by then they already had the hose setup...
Obviously I was not going to have a beer in the middle of a work day, but I wanted the photo of having a beer while they did the work, lol.
They were done in no time... wow! But so glad that I did not have to do this...
Now to finish the frame to close off the access opening.
Yep, those are the ones.
Using this...
Made four plugs... so 8" total thickness of that white foam board.
Placed the cutout back in place and holding it with tape for now...
Ended up not getting the PVC trim. Instead bought some of this:
This made it super easy to install the LED light strip
Made four plugs... so 8" total thickness of that white foam board.
Placed the cutout back in place and holding it with tape for now...
Ended up not getting the PVC trim. Instead bought some of this:
This made it super easy to install the LED light strip
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Last row of lights is done!
Now to continue to organize and make room to install the two-post lift.
A/C company stopped by to get all the information for a quote... should have that any day now. Going with a Mitsubishi split unit. I want a good unit with the 10 years warranty that comes with it... and no issues when you need to service them. I read/heard some horror stories with the DIY units.
I will be ordering the green hinges recommended as well.
Oh, and local lowes has the insulation kits for the doors. Will get those as well to take care of that.
Now to continue to organize and make room to install the two-post lift.
A/C company stopped by to get all the information for a quote... should have that any day now. Going with a Mitsubishi split unit. I want a good unit with the 10 years warranty that comes with it... and no issues when you need to service them. I read/heard some horror stories with the DIY units.
I will be ordering the green hinges recommended as well.
Oh, and local lowes has the insulation kits for the doors. Will get those as well to take care of that.
mattthemuppet
Well-known member
make sure you let the AC company know all that so they can size the unit properly - no point paying for more than you need
Will do. Just got back from a few days off visiting family... Got the first quote. Interestingly enough, they said that a Mitsubishi 2-Ton 18 SEER Mini Split 24,000 BTU would be enough to run the area... I thought it would required a larger unit. First quote seemed rather high. They have the concrete slab, the wiring, everything all setup for the install. Quote came in at US$5,498.00
Anyway, getting a second quote this week and will make a decision then. I will also ask to see how much more a little bit more efficient unit would be.
So I was surprised that only one unit was needed. I made all wiring and concrete base to have two units installed. If only one is needed then I will definitely look into installing the air compressor on the second concrete slab and build a vented cover for it. That would be less clutter and noise inside the shop.
Second A/C company stopped by today. Quote was even higher for the same unit... US$8,020.00 yikes!! At least I got confirmation that the needed size for the A/C is a 2-Ton (24,000 BTU).
I will be going with the same company that does my A/C maintenance... They will be doing the install on the 15 this month. Woohoo!
I will be going with the same company that does my A/C maintenance... They will be doing the install on the 15 this month. Woohoo!
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Forum member sold me a Baldor motor and gave me a heavy, and overbuilt drill press, for free, lol. I have wanted something like this for years!! I was initially looking for a floor based Walker Turner but those are very hard to find.
This thing is a beast of a drill press. The column is 3-1/2" in diameter.
Picked it up yesterday.
Came with an additional motor, touch-up paint, manuals, etc. This was one, if not the first, restoration project he did… and then later made it into a VFD controlled drill with that Baldor motor.
So I will keep this one in the new shop and my small 15" benchtop Walker Turner in the garage...
This thing is a beast of a drill press. The column is 3-1/2" in diameter.
Picked it up yesterday.
Came with an additional motor, touch-up paint, manuals, etc. This was one, if not the first, restoration project he did… and then later made it into a VFD controlled drill with that Baldor motor.
So I will keep this one in the new shop and my small 15" benchtop Walker Turner in the garage...
A/C is installed!!
They wanted 256.00 to install the surge protector… The unit was only 60.00 so I did it myself. Very easy install. Also installed a thermal cover on the lines to give the foam covers more life…
They wanted 256.00 to install the surge protector… The unit was only 60.00 so I did it myself. Very easy install. Also installed a thermal cover on the lines to give the foam covers more life…
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Now to do the insulation on the doors...
Started with the doors. Reflectix and then the 1-1/2” foam board…
That is all for now. I did finished cutting all the foam boards so now it is just a matter of removing the crossbars and installing the rest.
I miss calculated and I am short one roll of Reflectix… so need to get that to finish the second door… no biggie.
Besides the insulation, it makes the door so much quieter… and yes, still need to order the hinges and better wheels.
So for 275.00 in materials, I will have both doors insulated.
That is all for now. I did finished cutting all the foam boards so now it is just a matter of removing the crossbars and installing the rest.
I miss calculated and I am short one roll of Reflectix… so need to get that to finish the second door… no biggie.
Besides the insulation, it makes the door so much quieter… and yes, still need to order the hinges and better wheels.
So for 275.00 in materials, I will have both doors insulated.
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Tynee
Well-known member
Nice. You'll like that alot.
tweidman
Well-known member
Which wheels did you order? Let us know how you like them....
I got the DURA-Lift rollers.
Stems in mine were 5" long so I could not go with the Dura-Lift Titan Premium 4" available. I had to go with the DURA-LIFT Ultra-Life MAX since those were available with a longer stem (7"). Here is the link:
Amazon.com: DURA-LIFT Ultra-Life MAX 2" Sealed 6200ZZ Bearing Nylon Garage Door Roller, 7" Stem, Pack of 10 : Tools & Home Improvement
Amazon.com: DURA-LIFT Ultra-Life MAX 2" Sealed 6200ZZ Bearing Nylon Garage Door Roller, 7" Stem, Pack of 10 : Tools & Home Improvement
a.co
I need 28 to replace them on both doors.
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knucklehead 61
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2024
- Messages
- 207
little late for me to suggest it, but i covered the inside of my first shop with plywood, then a skim coat of drywall mud to fill and smooth any imperfections prior to prime & painting it. turned out good.
I did think about doing that as well. But then I started hanging stuff on the walls and forgot about it...
It would have made the walls look a lot nicer...
knucklehead 61
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2024
- Messages
- 207
you could still trowell some on over the paint in areas that show more & then re prime & paint over it.
or not, & leave it as is.
i am using sheetrock to finish the inside of my new shop, i prefer the clean look, but it sure costs a lot more.
tweidman
Well-known member
Can you give us a review of those garage door upgrades.... 
Liking it so far. Light enough that I did not have to make changes to the springs.Can you give us a review of those garage door upgrades....
Hinges are certainly doing the job well. I go outside at night and I don’t see light from the garage like before.
And it is so quiet now when opening and closing! So yes, nylon rollers were a good suggestion as well. The foam got it quieter but the nylon rollers added more quietness to it afterwards.
Now working on the mess… and starting to figure out where I want to install my MaxJax.
So much carp that I still need to go through… I am not moving again…ever!!
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Time to drill the holes for the MaxJax lift. But first I need to rebuild the cylinder. One was leaking a little bit and now is the time to get these done.
Glad I did because when I took out the first one, the outer seal was out completely and the inner seal was disintegrating...
A few photos... My MaxJax is one of the first. Got it through the forum when they reached out to see who would like to be the first to get them... best US$1,500.00 I have spent, ever!!
Top bar removed and slid the support for the arms enough to clear the cylinder.
And cylinder out
Here you can see that the top seal was already out... yikes. But wait until you see the one inside!! The cap was easy to remove with a face pin spanner wrench. The newer ones use a cap that has holes on the side so a different spanner wrench is needed for those.
Pulled the cylinder out and it came out with no resistance... green is the old seal. As you can see, crumbles as I kust pass my finger over it... it had been gone a long time. The lift sat unused for 2-1/2 years after the move. But before that, it had the 912 shell on it. Good thing it was a lightweight shell...
Top seal, old versus new.
Everything cleaned... brake cleaner even removed the paint... oh well. It is clean.
Glad I did because when I took out the first one, the outer seal was out completely and the inner seal was disintegrating...
A few photos... My MaxJax is one of the first. Got it through the forum when they reached out to see who would like to be the first to get them... best US$1,500.00 I have spent, ever!!
Top bar removed and slid the support for the arms enough to clear the cylinder.
And cylinder out
Here you can see that the top seal was already out... yikes. But wait until you see the one inside!! The cap was easy to remove with a face pin spanner wrench. The newer ones use a cap that has holes on the side so a different spanner wrench is needed for those.
Pulled the cylinder out and it came out with no resistance... green is the old seal. As you can see, crumbles as I kust pass my finger over it... it had been gone a long time. The lift sat unused for 2-1/2 years after the move. But before that, it had the 912 shell on it. Good thing it was a lightweight shell...
Top seal, old versus new.
Everything cleaned... brake cleaner even removed the paint... oh well. It is clean.
Remains from old top seal...
Cleaned that as well...
Now lets remove the inside seal...
Insane how brittle it was.
Placed the new seal in boiling water to make it easier to install.
Followed a recommendation I saw on a video. To use lanyard straps to pull the seal in place. Slid the seal from the top (well, when installed it faces down, but you know what I mean. The thinner side.) and pulled in place with the straps.
Done! Inserted back, installed the cap. Tested. Bled. Rinse and repeat with the other side. Added the ATF that got out during the process. And done!!
Now I can work on deciding where to install it. Drill the holes, drop the anchors, and start using it. Wohooo!
Cleaned that as well...
Now lets remove the inside seal...
Insane how brittle it was.
Placed the new seal in boiling water to make it easier to install.
Followed a recommendation I saw on a video. To use lanyard straps to pull the seal in place. Slid the seal from the top (well, when installed it faces down, but you know what I mean. The thinner side.) and pulled in place with the straps.
Done! Inserted back, installed the cap. Tested. Bled. Rinse and repeat with the other side. Added the ATF that got out during the process. And done!!
Now I can work on deciding where to install it. Drill the holes, drop the anchors, and start using it. Wohooo!
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Those Trusscore panels are relly nice, but almost three times the cost of a painted steel panel ceiling. But it sure makes for a good looking finished product. Menards show the Trusscore panels (16"x16') at $49.50 each. White steel panels (36"x14') are $41.50 each. Total for the sheet stock to do my shop ceiling would be $659 for the steel versus $1825 for the Trusscore. Granted the steel panels requires a sheet metal cutter device, like a rotary shear device for a drill.
I know, but you have to look at my situation. I had to do the install myself. No help. I had to move stuff out of the way as I progressed the work. These panels were light, easy to handle, no risk in cutting myself with them... if one fell, no damage, nothing bent. Very easy to cut to size with a circular saw with the blade reversed.
While I understand the cost side of it... the ease of doing this myself really played into going with Trusscore.
Had I done this before the move, yeah. I would have paid someone else to do it with a less expensive alternative.
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Oh I certainly understand, its all part of the total cost to do a project. One buddy and a day spent putting up the steel panels costs a lot less, but it requires two people. Plus the steel panels ar 36"x14' which is a lot more to move around if doing it yourself. Height is also an issue. If your top plate is 10' or higher that makes the ceiling peak much higher to handle larger heavier panels.
I have been looking for a motorcycle/atv lift to add to the workshop. Nothing like seeing some empty space starting to surface, to get me to buy more carp... .
Seriously, l am looking for a used one locally... will see how the search goes. I am not getting any younger and my knees will thank me for it. For doing work on the bikes and the riding lawn mower.
Figured that looking for a used one, I might find something of better quality than what I am seeing new. Within my budget... The new, quality, units I see are way over the budget that I have...
The only equipment left on the list of tools that I would like to have:
New air compressor
Dryer for the CNC plasma cutter
Motorcycle/ATV lift
and I am trying to decide if I stick with the MaxJax or sell it and replace it with a four-post lift. Now that I have the ceiling height to have one... Not sure what I want to do on this front...
.Seriously, l am looking for a used one locally... will see how the search goes. I am not getting any younger and my knees will thank me for it. For doing work on the bikes and the riding lawn mower.
Figured that looking for a used one, I might find something of better quality than what I am seeing new. Within my budget... The new, quality, units I see are way over the budget that I have...
The only equipment left on the list of tools that I would like to have:
New air compressor
Dryer for the CNC plasma cutter
Motorcycle/ATV lift
and I am trying to decide if I stick with the MaxJax or sell it and replace it with a four-post lift. Now that I have the ceiling height to have one... Not sure what I want to do on this front...
Ended up getting a new one. This one from Vevor... and the cheapest price, delivered, was with Home Depot! I was not expecting that...close to 500.00 less.
Should work well with all the bikes and the riding lawn mower... and I should be able to place it in front of the MaxJax without issues. Great.
Scheduled to arrive next week.
Should work well with all the bikes and the riding lawn mower... and I should be able to place it in front of the MaxJax without issues. Great.
Scheduled to arrive next week.
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