Would you block between joists

[IPACA9]

A question for you builders.

So I'm working on the final back part of my "U" snapped 30x40 mezzanine. The 2x6 joists are only 61" long between the double 11" deep LVLs and double 2x10s. There's going to be 3/4" tongue and groove plywood over it. On my side 7½ wide decks I blocked in the middle but would you do it for the smaller deck?

 

[pstnbly]

I would say they won't need bridging (blocking). Is there going to be a ceiling? Bridging keeps the joists from twisting and losing strength when loaded over long spans to maintain a consistent diaphragm. The short length of these joists would not allow for much twisting unless loaded way beyond any reasonable level. A ceiling would add some resistance to the twisting force.

 

[MrA]

You don't need to block. Blocks would be needed where joists lap over a wall, or where you need a fire draft stop. I would look up the span rating for the beam holding the ends of the joists on the handrail side. You may need a few more posts.

 

[IPACA9]

It's going to basically be a crosswalk joining the left and right sides. There will be shelving on it for camping gear and Christmas decorations and such. Nothing really crazy but with double LVLs it was designed to carry a load.

 

[visiting guest]

if you added blocks it would be for having solid backing in more areas if you ever decided to hang or suspend anything from underneath.
once floor is on it
it will be shadowed / darker under the walkway.
so additional lights may be desired in the future
.
or prevent the floor from sagging
if the walkway was covered with too thin of floor sheeting

if you had any old material scraps left over just use it up as blocking ?

 

[lakeroadster]

No I wouldn't... but I would be sure to nail every joist to the plywood, two nails each, mid span.

Easy peazy with a nail gun, dare I say, it's also fun.

The mezzanine looks awesome by the way

 

[slidehammer]

I would however relocate the columns directly below the LVLs with a post cap.

 

[IPACA9]

I would however relocate the columns directly below the LVLs with a post cap.

LVLs are supported by Simpson LVL double 11 hangers with a post under them.

 

[IPACA9]

The 14" deep x 29' long and 11" deep x 24½' LVLs are joined together using Fastenmaster's TrussLok screws



The outer dimensional double 2x10s are joined together with Fastenmaster's Headlock screws



Posts are notched and joined to the beams using Fastenmaster's ThruLok screws



Everything else is joined using Simpson's Strong-Tie screws.

 

[IPACA9]

Left and right side decks are blocked/bridged between joists but are a foot wider then the rear deck which was originally going to be only 5 feet wide/deep. I hope I have clearance for my truck's nose when I get the lift in. I hope I measured right.

 

[ItsNemo]

Do you need it? Probably not. Is it worth going overkill for piece of mind? Heck yes.

 

[IPACA9]

Do you need it? Probably not. Is it worth going overkill for piece of mind? Heck yes.

And that's what I'm thinking. I have the hangers to do it and the scraps to make them. I guess just stop bitching about it and be about it...lol

 

[bczygan]

Which way are you running the T&G plywood?

Get blocking under any joints.

BTW, Very nice job.

Beefy design and outstanding attention to detail with joints and fasteners.

Bill

 

[IPACA9]

It would be great and easier to run the T&G front to back so I could just cut two feet off the end of them but it would be stronger to run it across for the 8 feet width. Either way it'll take six sheets so it'll be the way I did the sides.

 

[bczygan]

It would be great and easier to run the T&G front to back so I could just cut two feet off the end of them but it would be stronger to run it across for the 8 feet width. Either way it'll take six sheets so it'll be the way I did the sides.

In that case, I would definitely run blocking under that joint.

Bill

 

[maxpower_hd]

I wouldn't bother with the blocking if you had to buy anything but if you have enough scraps and the hangers then why not. Just put them in anyway.

That looks very beefy to me and looks like all the ply hits a joist so I wouldn't be worried if you decide not to.

Across the joists like you pictured is the way to go for strength even if it means more cutting.

Looks good. Nice job.

 

[velillen01]

And that's what I'm thinking. I have the hangers to do it and the scraps to make them. I guess just stop bitching about it and be about it...lol

Since you have the hangers and wood already I would go ahead and do it. Is it totally needed...probably not. But since you have everything all it costs is the time and it really should take you long to do it so I would go ahead and do it.

 

[IPACA9]

I think I'm getting that feeling wanting to rush to get to the end. It's been a long road building it but my OCD for detail keeps me in line. I bought this lumber last year in November but didn't get started on it till a couple months ago. Then Bill (bczygan) had to come along and flip my design around and recommend going with LVLs...lol. Soooo....back to the drawing board we went and this is the outcome.

I'm on the fence with my bannister posts if I want to attach them to the inside of the LVLs and lose a few inches of decking or mount to the outside. I think it would look much cleaner with them coming up through the flooring and on the inside of the LVLs and would also give me a smooth surface to attach my cool signs and other display items.

 

[MagKarl]

Tongue and groove joints 2 feet or less should be ok, sheet end joints you want to have land on a joist. I use subfloor adhesive and ring shank nails, lots of them.

 

[Rock knocker]

In that case, I would definitely run blocking under that joint.

Bill

Why? T&G doesn't need to land on a joist

 

[maxpower_hd]

Uhmm.....by the looks of the photos the plywood is landing on joists on all sides.

For the railing posts, could you notch the posts to make them flush with the outside? Are you using 4x4s? Looking at the photos I think you have 3" to notch out of the post so you wouldn't have much left to lag to the LVL. Maybe a 4x6 notched? A little overkill for a post but you would have 2" still left to lag through.

There are Strong Tie brackets for 4x4 posts too but I don't know if that would be as strong as lagging them in or not.

 

[cubfarm 1]

Nicest heavy duty build I have seen for a long while. You can store engines up there with NO worries!

 

[IPACA9]

The engineer at the lumberyard ran the numbers for the LVLs that bill recommended. He hit me with this info.

"I agree with the dual 14” deep LVLs.*@#$ I have attached 2 Design Reports, one with 40 lb. live load and one with 60 lb. live load. I ran the 2nd*@#$calc with 60 lb. live just to see what would happen and the LVLs were only 70% “maxed Out” and would work with 16d common nails, Fastenmaster TrussLoks or bolts."