Would you buy a second-hand micrometer?

[cnyeco1]

Yeah I have a problem.....(never could seem to pass them up), $20.00 is the average that I have paid. I worked for Eaton Corp. for 10 years, in their Hutchinson Kansas and Shawnee Ok. locations. Both are huge shops and people leave or get fired all the time. When someone retires they usually go around and ask new people if they want to buy their precision tools. I have a couple of 0-1 mics if anyone is interested. I always thought I would re-sell them on ebay, but just havn't had the time to do it since going back to nursing school.

BOLSTER....Let me know what you need and i'll take a look at what I have to help.

cnyeco1.

 

[iajonesy]

I have worked as a machinist for over 30 years and have always had Starrett mics. My 0-1.00" was purchased used so who knows how old it is and it still measures perfectly on the standard. If you buy a good quality mic such as Starrett,Brown & Sharp,or Mytutoyo they are all adjustable to re-set the proper measurement. Stay away from the pressed metal type of mics as they are very suseptible to temperature changes and also bend very easily. A good mic holds its value so you will always get most of your money back out of them if you decide to sell.

Mike

 

[Elroy]

As a supplement to this thread, Elroy would like to inquire:

Ratchet or friction?? Which one do you guys prefer???

 

[OldCarGuy]

As a supplement to this thread, Elroy would like to inquire:

Ratchet or friction?? Which one do you guys prefer???

Neither. I’m from the old school, and prefer a rigid thimble. Never liked or used the ratchet end either. I just use two fingers against one side of the thimble and my thumb on the opposite side..

 

[fasteddie24]

I'd take a used Starrett or Mitutoyo before a new Chinese made one. Any day!

 

[Fueler]

You stated that you were wanting to do engine work. My whole life/career has revolved around machining and engines. Contrary to what was stated somewhere you do need good quality mics. Cheap Chinese from Enco won't cut it. IF buying used and you have your hands on it, rotate the thimble out to where you can see the threads. Cheap Chinese will be brass. Those will change calibration while you are looking at them. All good stuff is stainless or high grade steel.

Over the years I have had Starret, B&S and Mitutoyo. I settled on Mitutoyo for the last 20 years because the availibility is good, quality is top notch, life expectency is great, the anvil and tip are hardened AND their setting standards as a rule are spot on. I have the digimikes which have a mechancial digital readout which is handy when you are tired, just to verify what you are looking at on all those little lines.

Also, contrary to what some may think, you will indeed need mics that read in tenths (.0001) particularly when dealing with crankshafts, bore sizes and bearing clearances. Anything less and you will be wrong.

Keep them clean, oiled and in a drawer when not in your hand and a top brand will be with you long enough to pass on to your kids still in top condition. The cheap stuff will get replaced before you know it.

The point is, if you haven't figured it out yet, is that this is not a place to be chintzy if you expect to do quality work and measurements.

Ebay could be your friend here. Study what you want, new prices, etc. Figure out what you want to spend on each size. Take your time and study the ads. It is usually appearent which ones are the choice of the lot.

 

[cnyeco1]

I like the friction or the old school "thimble". I hate the ratchets.

My 2 cents.

Also, I have the same box set that was shown on page #2 , and I love it. Mine goes from 0-1 to 11-12, it is a rice brand but it is a very good beginner set and has lasted 12 years without adjusting any of them. It also comes with carbide tips and gauges. We used to have to calibrate our tools every two weeks too. Sucked but never have had a prob.

Cam.

 

[X1 Mike]

I would surely buy used before going the China route. The good names as most have said in my order of preference are probably Starret, Mitutoyo, J.T. Slocomb, S-T, Brown and Sharpe, and Lufkin. I think a set of Jo-blocks like everyone is suggesting may be overkill for checking 1 micrometer. I would learn to measure without using any friction device, just learn to get that feel and don't rely on a crutch. A recomendation for a low cost alternative for a new mic is VIS. They are made in Poland and mine have held up well for 20 years. I am no longer "in the trade" so I sold off all my high end mic's and now I just own VIS and NSK. I would not hesitate to use these everyday.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00077KLYQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Elroy]

I would surely buy used before going the China route.....
A recomendation for a low cost alternative for a new mic is VIS. They are made in Poland and mine have held up well for 20 years.

Made in Poland.
Why Elroy would never dream of making such a radical statement. Surely you must jest. NOT

Note this old "polish" post from 2005.
My how time flies when you're having fun.

I have seen some very nice precision tools that were made in Poland. NO JOKE. A few years ago I was on the road and needed to take some measurements on a machine we were installing. One of the company machinist let me use his made in Poland mics. They were damn nice. I laid them on a 1/2 dowel pin I had in my road box and guess what .5003". I was impressed! I don't think they had a Brand name just "Made in Poland".

 

[Elroy]

Would Elroy ever buy a used Mic ??

Please reference this post as an answer to your question.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33923

Don't let the paint fool ya. These Scherr-Tumico have made Elroy a lot of money and they will still pass calibration with no problem.

 

[OldCarGuy]

Cheap Chinese will be brass. Those will change calibration while you are looking at them. All good stuff is stainless or high grade steel.

I have been using micrometers for 50 years in the tool and die industries. And now for restoring antique cars. I chose not to sell any of my prize possessions. And still own Starrett, Lufkin, Flowler, and Mitutoyo micrometers. Including the Mitutoyo 0 to 12" set pictured below.

I took apart the Chinese micrometer. Low and behold they aren’t made of brass,, as you say!

From my years experience, they feel as good and are as accurate as any I’ve owned. Besides the standards that come with them. I have a set of C. E. Johansson gage blocks that are certified and can be traced to the National Bureau of Standards. This cheap Chinese micrometer is accurate well within a tenth at .0000 and .2500 and .5000 and .7500 and 1.0000 using gage blocks...

C. E. Johansson gage block set

My Mitutoyo 0 to 12" set with standards...

 

[Elroy]

Cheap Chinese will be brass. Those will change calibration while you are looking at them. All good stuff is stainless or high grade steel.

Elroy has no doubt that the statement above is fully accurate.

I took apart the Chinese micrometer. Low and behold they aren’t made of brass,, as you say!

From my years experience, they feel as good and are as accurate as any I’ve owned. Besides the standards that come with them. I have a set of C. E. Johansson gage blocks that are certified and can be traced to the National Bureau of Standards. This cheap Chinese micrometer is accurate well within a tenth at .0000 and .2500 and .5000 and .7500 and 1.0000 using gage blocks...

So what OCG has done is confirm that there are in deed different levels of quality in Chinese tools.

The original posted clearly stated :

Cheap Chinese

We need to cut a little bit of slack here.

Ya Elroy's tool box must be full of High Quality Chinese tools. NOPE, not a chance, I don't care how good they are across the Jo Blocks.

Tell us OCG, You want a $100 for the Chinese mics, how much for the Starretts ???

 

[voidifused]

This is turning into on heated thread over some on just wanting to know if it was OK to get a used micrometer

 

[Elroy]

This is turning into on heated thread over some on just wanting to know if it was OK to get a used micrometer

There is nothing heated about it. Just pointing out that there is wide range of quality available to choose from.

Used is fine and typically new is better. HOWEVER if new contains a brass spindle screw you're better off to keep looking.

 

[voidifused]

There is nothing heated about it. Just pointing out that there is wide range of quality available to choose from.

Used is fine and typically new is better. HOWEVER if new contains a brass spindle screw you're better off to keep looking.

I would have to agree with that, though i have never had one with brass in it. seeing brass being a soft alloy i don't think it would be a good machining tool, besides making parts etc out of and i could be wrong on that to. I don't do a lot on a regular basis.

 

[X1 Mike]

When it comes to caring for your mic’s everyone has their own ideas, here are the right ones…. I mean mine.

1. I’ve seen it mentioned to keep them oiled, only apply one drop of instrument oil to the screw threads a month. (WD-40 is not instrument oil)

2. Never store with anvil faces touching

3. Use paper to clean anvil faces off. All you have to do is lightly close on a piece of paper and drag it through.

4. Keep them in a drawer by themselves with a good moisture absorber such as silica if not that I have always used a handful of pennies.

5. Never touch the anvil faces with your hands. It sounds funny but different people make things rust at different rates. I once worked with a guy who drank Pepsi non-stop, he would rust a freshly ground part in a half hour.

 

[IR_Guy]

Mitutoyo Digital micrometers have been the best IMHO. If you don't like digital (and I can't think of a real reason why besides the battery life), Starrett and Brown and Sharpe rule.

Give the anvil and posts faces a good look. Should be absolutely no wear or un-eveness. If the faces are dirty, a quick wipe with the surfaces lightly clamped on cardstock will clean them nicely. If lightly rust or 'hard dirt' is present, use a superfine lap stone (polished measurement grade granite is best) or cast iron lap to very very very gently rub the closed faces to clean. Use caution to not scratch the faces.

For 0-1", close the mic and hold up in front of a strong light and rotate to see all sides. Any light showing between the faces will eventually show up in what you measure. For larger sizes (and at 1" for the 0-1's) a reliable, accurate, standard should be used. Do not trust the China-made standards. The faces should line up nicely (ie- no side-to-side mis-match). If you go with ball faces, there must not be flats where contact is made.

Roll out the thimble to the max measuring size and wind it back in. Any gripping or grinding is bad.

Most standard mics can adjust zero. This is good as zero will change with use and wear. Bad is when zero isn't carried past zero. If the mic measures more than .0001"-.0002" anywhere- it probably should be repaired or replaced. Much would depend on what tolerance you are measuring.

With experience you can measure .0001-.0002" with a calibrated set of mics. Without experience you are misleading yourself. Likewise, even though a digital set has resolution to .00005" the manufacturers only spec out .0001-.0002" accuracy. Understand your limits.

Technically- if you're into the .0005" range you really need expensive and certified equipment to guarentee this level of precision. This is a level where surface finish, roundness, flatness, etc start to be critical and aren't always detectable with micrometers.

 

[gorilla]

In my opinion most used micrometers are overpriced and abused. I have had a 0 -6" boxed set of Brown and Sharpe micrometers for over 30 years and never had a problem with holding tolerance on my work. just my .02

 

[Kevin54]

In my opinion most used micrometers are overpriced and abused. I have had a 0 -6" boxed set of Brown and Sharpe micrometers for over 30 years and never had a problem with holding tolerance on my work. just my .02

So if you ever go to sell them, then they will be overpriced and abused?

 

[OldCarGuy]

Cheap Chinese will be brass. Those will change calibration while you are looking at them. All good stuff is stainless or high grade steel.

Elroy has no doubt that the statement above is fully accurate.

Not entirely. The Chinese set I have are not made of brass.


Tell us OCG, You want a $100 for the Chinese mics, how much for the Starretts ???

Needles to say the value of anything is equated to what someone is willing to pay for it. And that price is related to the original cost. Then of course one would expect to pay more for Starrett's than a comparable Chinese set. I cannot put a price on the Starrett micrometers in my tool boxes. They once were my Father's and Uncle's. And I would never entertain the idea of selling them.

By the way,, the Chinese micrometer set I'm selling came along with the restoration shop that I purchase a while back. And I don't have any Chinese tools in my tool boxes.


.

 

[Major Ramifications]

IMO ... there really isnt a midle of road.. its either good or ****....
Goood. Brown and Sharp, Mitutoyo, Starret

or ****!!!
and IMO blue point and fowler are ****, (one of the few times I think rebadged stuff from china *****!!!)....

you have to realize the diffence in build quality could be off just smallest of degrees and now the micrometer is ****....

I am a little surprised to hear you call Fowler ****. Do you mean only the new stuff or were they always ****? I am curious because I have an older made-in-Japan Fowler 4-5" micrometer in a wooden case that was sold by MAC. It's the nicest micrometer I have, which is not saying much.

 

[Garage_Mahal]

just my .02

Don't you mean your .0002?

 

[rodm1]

I would go with this. It don't come with those mickey mouse thimbles but if you practice measuring with drill bites you will get the feel of the mic in short time.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=950223&PMAKA=600-2128

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[Bolster]

Big thanks to the forum for helping me learn the ins and outs of used mics, and helping me to obtain my first micrometer. Rickster (bless his soul) is furnishing me with a nice Lufkin.

Again thanks to all. You guys are the best!