Wrench for shower valve?

[CGT80]

I wasn't sure if this should go in garage or tools, or some other section.

This is a shower valve in my grandparent's Monaco Diplomat RV. I tried to take the cap off with channel locks but it doesn't budge. It appears that the serrations are not to remove it, but that the brass ring on the front may have to come off. I can't seem to find a wrench for this, on the internet. A flat steel bar may work, but the notches are not very deep and a piece of scrap I had, would slip.........it wasn't long enough to get leverage though. This leaks out of the front and the hot water is said to not work or it won't blend well. Unfortunately, I don't think there is access to the back side, otherwise I could remove the entire valve body if needed. Of course, the next step after removing it is to see if I can even get the right cartridge.

The trim plate is huntington brass.

Does anyone have good ideas or the name or link for a wrench that is made for this type of nut?

 

[sixty4]

Looks like a delta shower valve to me. That part does come off to replace the ball springs and seats. The corroded piece there is a tool for. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Repair-Kit-for-Faucets-RP3614-3/205936157

I would shoot it with PB blaster to help free the knurled nut up.

 

[Reese]

That looks like a Delta or a Delta copy. I am pretty sure you were on the right track wit the pliers. My experience with these has been that corrosion has welded it together. You get into a balancing act between getting leverage and egg shaping the knurled collar.

If you can get it apart the repair is easy. A repair kit will run $10 to $15. I would hose it down with the penetrating oil of your choice and try again.

 

[georgiadave]

If the Delta tool does not work, you can make a tool by grinding a socket to make the 4 legs that fit into the brass nut. That give you good leverage. Be careful not to break the copper pipe or fittings attached to the valve.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I have always used channel locks on them. Good luck..

 

[cherrybomb]

I would use a lube of my choice,and give it some time.Make sure your pliers has good crisp teeth, be firm but careful, as you don't want to damage the other parts.Take a deep breath and go for it,plumbers usually really tighten things,probably didn't have sealant on the threads which you will have to overcome.A little lube on any threaded connection really is a good thing to put in your arsenal of little tips.

 

[fordkid88]

I got you, this is what I currently use until my remodel.

 

[CGT80]

Somehow, I wrote a response the other day, but it didn't show up.

Thanks for all the advice.

The wrench was part of a delta kits at Lowes, but they didn't have the wrench separately. The problem is that I don't know which kit it will take. I'll try HD for the wrench or just make one.

The supply lines are plastic, so the valve just flexes in the wall and it isn't secured to any framing. This is a $250k RV but it isn't built much better than my 21' toyhauler. The cabinets are the same particle board, same plastic brackets here and there that break easily, etc.

 

[Norcal]

Somehow, I wrote a response the other day, but it didn't show up.

Thanks for all the advice.

The wrench was part of a delta kits at Lowes, but they didn't have the wrench separately. The problem is that I don't know which kit it will take. I'll try HD for the wrench or just make one.

The supply lines are plastic, so the valve just flexes in the wall and it isn't secured to any framing. This is a $250k RV but it isn't built much better than my 21' toyhauler. The cabinets are the same particle board, same plastic brackets here and there that break easily, etc.

The wrench in the Delta kits tighten or loosen the nut in the center of the cap, which puts pressure on the gasket assembly on the ball in the valve to stop it from leaking while water is flowing, it will not remove the cap, hate to say it but use a pipe wrench & replace the cap after removing it, because it will be marred up, but the valve not being secured will be a problem.

 

[CGT80]

A scrap of 1/8" flat steel stock worked as a wrench and a crescent (adjustable) wrench let me turn it. It was then, that I realized the channel locks would be needed again.

Amazon has a kit with the cap, but I think it is chrome and this might be stainless. HD shows the other parts on their web site.

Unfortunately, I twisted the valve a bit. There are 3 small copper lines that run from the pipe connections to the shell that holds the ball and valve. It is what it is and I don't think my grandparents will be that concerned with it. I told them about that already.

It doesn't seem like the front nut should have prevented the large cap from coming off, but it started twisting after, so who knows.

 

[Norcal]

A scrap of 1/8" flat steel stock worked as a wrench and a crescent (adjustable) wrench let me turn it. It was then, that I realized the channel locks would be needed again.

Amazon has a kit with the cap, but I think it is chrome and this might be stainless. HD shows the other parts on their web site.

Unfortunately, I twisted the valve a bit. There are 3 small copper lines that run from the pipe connections to the shell that holds the ball and valve. It is what it is and I don't think my grandparents will be that concerned with it. I told them about that already.

It doesn't seem like the front nut should have prevented the large cap from coming off, but it started twisting after, so who knows.

The cap is chrome plated brass.