I tried to do a search for this and either seriously lack searching capability or there isn’t much other than “use heat” because a rusted bolt is likely to break if you get good grip which understand. I live in NY and they salt the ever living hell out of the roads here so I get lots of rust on fasteners. I do my best to keep things washed but rust happens regardless. Are there any good wrench sets that work on rusted fasteners? I have extractor sockets and hammer sockets on but sometimes there just isn’t space. This is were a wrench would fit far better. When I’m dealing with these types of rusted things I usually just replace it anyways so I’m not particularly worried about damage to it, I just want to get the thing off. Do the extractor sets made by Capri or Olsa actually work or would I be better off saving for something like Flank Drive +. Or just get Wright Grips and call it a day? I like the length of the Olsa, and that the double box end feature would help it take up less room in the box. But the open end on the Capri could prove useful. And love some SO but I just don’t know if I can’t justify it as someone who doesn’t wrench professionally. Many times while under the vehicles I become VERY motivated to move….
Wrench sets for rusted fasteners?
- Thread starter Jenkins
- Start date
Torque test channel has done some pretty awesome analysis of wrenches. I'd start your research there. There are several episodes with a whole variety of brands and different tests. As you would expect, Snap on Flank Drive+, Proto ASD and Mac RBRT wrenches perform really well. I have Proto ASD myself and they are fantastic.
Interestingly, there's a new line of Craftsman tools called "Overdrive" that includes wrenches with an RBRT/ASD-like design. Because they're new, TTC hasn't analyzed them yet. However, Craftsman is owned by SBD, who also owns Proto and Mac... no idea if these wrenches are in the same ballpark, but SBD certainly knows how to do it. Until these came out, there weren't any "budget" options integrating this type of design.
Interestingly, there's a new line of Craftsman tools called "Overdrive" that includes wrenches with an RBRT/ASD-like design. Because they're new, TTC hasn't analyzed them yet. However, Craftsman is owned by SBD, who also owns Proto and Mac... no idea if these wrenches are in the same ballpark, but SBD certainly knows how to do it. Until these came out, there weren't any "budget" options integrating this type of design.
VolvoRyan
Well-known member
Wright Grips do it for me..... but heat really is the answer.
-Ryan
-Ryan
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I’ll have to dig into those and watch them. I don’t usually watch the testing videos out there as they usually seem to focus on testing to failure or max power. Unfortunately a real world test just doesn’t seem feasible in most cases.Torque test channel has done some pretty awesome analysis of wrenches. I'd start your research there. There are several episodes with a whole variety of brands and different tests. As you would expect, Snap on Flank Drive+, Proto ASD and Mac RBRT wrenches perform really well. I have Proto ASD myself and they are fantastic.
Interestingly, there's a new line of Craftsman tools called "Overdrive" that includes wrenches with an RBRT/ASD-like design. Because they're new, TTC hasn't analyzed them yet. However, Craftsman is owned by SBD, who also owns Proto and Mac... no idea if these wrenches are in the same ballpark, but SBD certainly knows how to do it. Until these came out, there weren't any "budget" options integrating this type of design.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Wright grips are my DD combo wrenches. IME these have beaten snap on FD+ wrenches on stubborn alignments, but the snap on are still a very high quality wrench. The limiting factor on that application is typically just tearing the metal off, rather than "slipping". Snap on also makes longer wrench options, the wrights are quite short.
I also have the astro flank-bite removal wrenches, which work well, but function as 6pt wrenches thus space can be an issue. Generally speaking, what is your limiting factor that you are using a combination wrench? For instance if height is an issue, low profile extractor sockets exist. In my use if the 12point end of a wrench cannot remove something due to rot, it is very unlikely the open end will. I have both snap on FD+ and wright grip wrenches, and proto ASD crowfeet. You've only got two flats to work with, and eventually you just shred the fastener apart or are unable to apply the required torque.
Also, there is a difference between "actual torches" with an oxygen bottle, and a propane torch. If you can't liquefy things, you don't have a torch. For DIY, I would recommend an inductive heater as the best option.
I also have the astro flank-bite removal wrenches, which work well, but function as 6pt wrenches thus space can be an issue. Generally speaking, what is your limiting factor that you are using a combination wrench? For instance if height is an issue, low profile extractor sockets exist. In my use if the 12point end of a wrench cannot remove something due to rot, it is very unlikely the open end will. I have both snap on FD+ and wright grip wrenches, and proto ASD crowfeet. You've only got two flats to work with, and eventually you just shred the fastener apart or are unable to apply the required torque.
Also, there is a difference between "actual torches" with an oxygen bottle, and a propane torch. If you can't liquefy things, you don't have a torch. For DIY, I would recommend an inductive heater as the best option.
Eric O is kind of a hero to me tbh. He’s actually only like an hour from me. He uses heat a lot, and I do realize that’s the best way for a super stuck one. A lot of times I just need something that work on a fastener head that’s swollen or scaley with rust but not necessarily stuck fully. I do try to know my limits as I’ve broken off a few in some bad places and it was a nightmare. But that was back when I was a dumb broke kid. Now if it looks that bad I’ll get help from someone who truly knows what they are doing. Or accept that I’ll be doing some drilling.
“Capri Wave Drive earned Project Farm's top choice. I bought a set, but haven't used them on anything too gnarly yet.”
I’ll have to look for that one. Unfortunately I find his videos very difficult to watch. Nothing against him but something about the speed and tone he talks makes it hard to sit through.
I’ll have to look for that one. Unfortunately I find his videos very difficult to watch. Nothing against him but something about the speed and tone he talks makes it hard to sit through.
I steer clear of open ends on those fasteners if at all possible (I'm in Pennsylvania) but have found the Mac RBRT have a helluva precise fit and bite nicely. But that precise fit makes them less than useful on the swollen stuff. More for soft and sketchy.
I have 6 point Snap-ons too, also precise but not as bitey as the Macs.
Then Gearwrench 6 point fit less precisely. Might work better on swollen, but I haven't tried. They're kind of meh on the confidence scale.
My 12 point stuff is just cheap Hart from Walmart and miscellaneous. They actually fit decent, but I don't trust 12s on anything sketchy no matter who makes it.
IMHO if you're basically dealing with a ball of iron oxide pus, no wrench will be a one and done. You're doing whatever.
Other than that, anything that fits good enough not to round off is going to work.
Height is typically my limiting factor and it’s not even an all the time type of issue. There have been a few times where something like a box wrench would have saved pulling off 6 hours with of other stuff to hammer a socket on. My other limiting factor honestly is skill/experience. The lower usecase is why I’m not sure I can justify the Snap On purchase. While looking at the Capri the Astro ones came up and they look damn near identical if it’s the ones I’m thinking.
I’m actually looking for an induction heater. I’m not gonna lie I fear a real torch. We did some torch welding in my manufacturing processes class many years ago and experiencing what a real torch can accomplish in inexperienced hands is slightly daunting. A snapped off bolt could be the least of my problems if I went at it hog wild with a oxy-torch.
It’s really like a, let me try this wrench before I either a) get someone’s help or b) get myself deeper into a project by pulling off excess parts. It’d be more for my project type of things or maybe a bolt holding a non integral of my DD. If it’s really questionable and would leave us without the vehicle I’d just take it to the shop in all likelihood. I try to be practical and know my limitations and accepted risk.
Wrenches are not the solution to rusted fasteners, nor heat. Impact is. That said, I didn’t realize what a good wrench was until I bought Snap on. There are other good wrenches out there and the torque channels open end review is a good guide to premium wrenches in my opinion. Just don’t knee jerk to the #1 in the test and assume that will be best. I would filter the results for hardness, thinness, and length. Snap On will win, but there are surprises like FACOM, mac, and even icon.
I recommend SnapOn combinations FD+. I chose the long pattern SOEXL*** versions, tho I also have the high performance wrenches, and they are exquisite.
I recommend SnapOn combinations FD+. I chose the long pattern SOEXL*** versions, tho I also have the high performance wrenches, and they are exquisite.
Ah yes let's just hammer down on a rusted fastener. Tell me you don't know what you're doing without telling me you don't know what you're doing.
it’s a weird catch 22. When I was young I didn’t have the money for a reliable (newer) car nor the cash on hand to pay a mechanic every time my used cars broke, which was often. So I learned to fix my own cars. I also didn’t feel I had the money for decent tools, so every job was a pain, and I’d heat things, and hammer things and drill stuff. It sucked having no money.
As I wrote in another post, a couple tools made a huge difference. Impact gun was #1. I’d add to that list, having a clean garage to work in. It enabled to me make repairs in inclement weather. (Ironically, I don’t have that luxury now).
So the irony for me was, too poor to afford better vehicles, and too poor to afford the tools I needed to fix the cheap vehicles I drove.
In hindsight, I feel the investment I made in tools has been paid back many times over in successful repairs and reliable transportation for my family. Get good tools while you are young, and amortize them over many years of driving. With the cost of labor, diagnosis, it only takes a few jobs a year to add up.
I still seek ballpark quotes for jobs, then consider the 10% of the savings from DIY, discretionary tool budget.
TTC says not quite as hard as Snap On, which I find interesting. They aren’t just older designs made on potentially older equipment. Materials and processing are also different.
Wamsutta
Well-known member
Flank Drive Plus are relentless. They will not let go for nothing. Rounded off corners? No problem. By design, they pull the fastener into their jaw.
finn
Well-known member
I typically grab a cutoff wheel. If it’s that badly rusted, I won’t be reusing it anyway.
Agree. But I too live in the rust belt and worked on solely pre-galvanized cars in my youth and now on occasion. We’re at a point with wrenches, sockets and ratchets where one can pretty easily shear heads off with our tools. In my youth, I’d be rounding heads.
OP beware: You asked for wrenches for rusted fasteners and we, as always, respected you by only answering the question you asked. When I do that to my wife, she calls me an annoying engineer.
The answer to your question is decent quality (Taiwan minimum) impact sockets and a good battery impact gun. You might be able to generate 200ftlbs with a really expensive wrench. Guns can generate well over 1000ftlbs and they won’t yield the bolt head. The shock is very effective at breaking the oxidation of rusted hardware.
More- thin walled impacts are attractive and can fit in lots of places, doubling as chrome sockets in some cases. But the mass of an old fashioned heavy duty impact socket (mine are USA Craftsman & Snap-on) helps move stuck bolts.
Ditto, given the choice, start with larger 1/2” drive guns for max effect. Some of these are so bad ***, you’ll soon want a smaller mid torque gun that isn’t as heavy and wrist breaking. I think the new Snap On gun is now the highest torque gun on the market. I think it produces like 1400ftlbs. My opinion, not for everyday use.
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interesting. i honestly find they work well for the money after using other wrenches for eons. they do have the teeth like the flank driver though.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Maybe but, they don't have the market cornered like they once did. Check out the open end testing the Torque Test Channel did.
Living in the valley of the sun, rust is something seen on Yankee's vehicles that migrated here. Lots of Wisconsin plates here lately but, I digress. MAC RBRT although pricey, are pretty nice. You can also get the USAG clone at half off. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, bebop over to Lowes and grab the Craftsman Overdrive wrench set. At $75 bucks for a set (minus 11mm) you get the RBRT open and boxed end mated to a long pattern Dewalt Combination wrench which to me, is a sweet concept. Astro Flank Bite and Capri's are nice. I believe the Capri set offers a wider range of sizes. Advance auto parts even have a Die Hard long pattern set with teeth on the open end. The great thing that there are more choices available today than ever before, and you don't have to spend truck brand money to get a decent set.
They are outstanding wrenches, comparing favorably to others in the same price range.
Williams is exactly what so many GJers ask for all the time. Snap On designs, not quite at the same quality or performance but more than good enough for most users at a fraction of SOs prices, good internet availability, and USA made. Williams should be the default recommendation for folks searching for US made quality sockets, wrenches, ratchets and screwdrivers.
Impact definitely has its place for sure. But you just go jack hammering on a rusty bolt in the northeast you are asking for a bad day. I’ve found this out the hard way more than once.
It’s looking like this is probably way I’ll go if I can’t come around to the SO price. I most definitely don’t need the full SO quality as I am just a diy guy.
And yea I was in the same situation as a youngster. Usually I just drove around with a broke *** car if I couldn’t fix it with the small kit my dad and I had. Now I’m by no means well off but I can budget out for tools and I’ve slowly been buying better stuff. Like I’ve gotten snap on ratchets as I’ve found I’m rather hard on them and kept breaking my craftsman guts. And I have a few SO sockets and drivers that just seemed smart. Like now if I do decide to go the SO route I’ll just set aside money each week or whatever until I have enough. Back in the day that just wasn’t an option. I do wish I had spent my money more wisely in my 20s… I had no responsibilities really and money to spare. But I generally pissed it away on dumb stuff. Now with kids, mortgage, bills, cars, heath issues…. It is what it is. I do have a garage… clean…. Working on it. I’ve made some good strides the past month in getting in cleaned and organized. My wife’s car used to be in it then we went and got our daughters a go kart for Christmas a few years back and it got evicted. Lol. But I’ve been clearing out my clutter in an attempt to free the floor space back up. It does make a big difference working on a garage floor vs the driveway especially during winter. The driveway in the cold can be brutal.
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Zebu Fellenz
Well-known member
I have some Flank Drive Plus wrenches and have been super impressed with them.
But rather than recommend a wrench I'll go in another direction and recommend an induction heat tool if you don't have one already.
Absolute gamechanger, I was gifted a Bolt Buster with a pretty expansive selection of different coils and I can confidently say now that I'd rather have the induction tool coupled with whatever cheap wrenches/sockets than have the finest wrenches money can buy and no induction tool. Since getting the tool I've successfully and pretty easily taken things apart that I'd normally be cutting apart.
But rather than recommend a wrench I'll go in another direction and recommend an induction heat tool if you don't have one already.
Absolute gamechanger, I was gifted a Bolt Buster with a pretty expansive selection of different coils and I can confidently say now that I'd rather have the induction tool coupled with whatever cheap wrenches/sockets than have the finest wrenches money can buy and no induction tool. Since getting the tool I've successfully and pretty easily taken things apart that I'd normally be cutting apart.
Andres26tnt
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 11, 2018
- Messages
- 994
So many choices. I only have experience with RBRT/precision torque/440XL and usag 285X.
All those are more then enough for Amy rusted bolt, tho sometimes heat is the answer.
If you don't want to waste any money trying a brand you never purchased, I would go Craftsman overdrive. Simply they have combined a great design with an underappreciated long patter wrench.
All those are more then enough for Amy rusted bolt, tho sometimes heat is the answer.
If you don't want to waste any money trying a brand you never purchased, I would go Craftsman overdrive. Simply they have combined a great design with an underappreciated long patter wrench.
Don’t have one but it’s most definitely on the purchase list possibly the same purchase time as the wrenches… which one do you have?
This question more came up because I was trying to get a bracket off an old lawn tractor with very little space. I don’t think it’s frozen on there but the head of the bolt looks to have been fudged up at one point by what I think was a pto lever and now also has rust over that. My regular wrenches either won’t fit on it or are just too big. A long wrench that’ll bite will have a shot at getting it off. It’s save me the headache of pulling a bunch of other **** off just to smack a socket on it. It could very well be stuck inside as well. But worst case is I snap and have to tear it all apart anyways After thinking about it I’ve come across other times where this same type scenario has happened. There are occasions where I’m willing to risk snapping it off really. because in the end drilling out a snapped one won’t take all that much more effort than pulling the damn thing apart making the possible pay off worth the chance. Stupid? Possibly, but stupidity I’m ok with I guess.
Walkers
Well-known member
A blue wrench is the final solution. I haven't seen one nut or bolt that didn't yield to one.
Zebu Fellenz
Well-known member
This is the kit I have. https://boltbusterinc.com/product/bolt-buster-ii-heat-induction-with-advanced-coil-kit/
Oh and to the first part I have to give a serious LMAO. I definitely feel you on this one. Point asked and answered, but it’s somehow my fault she lacked in the question department?
I do have a decent impact too. And will use it. But there are just times it’s not practical or hell even possible.
One of these sold on FB marketplace for like $125 a month ago. Was kicking myself a bit for not going on earlier in the day to see what was newly listed. That low of a price does make it awful sus for being lifted though.
Blue wrench?
jonesg
Well-known member
the yellow wrench is slightly hotter than blue but both work when fancy wrenches fail , O/A is my dream.
Yep before the fire wrench comes out, you need something that bites like hell and you push slowly and increasingly firmly.
The RBRT cracked these. I think it's a similar scenario. 2014 Mack side step bracket. Fully exposed to the elements year round.
I didn't buy the RBRT specifically for these, but they're the situation I had in mind.
Lol. Let’s face it… it’s playing Russian roulette any way you do it. Just a matter of how many rounds in the cylinder.Yep before the fire wrench comes out, you need something that bites like hell and you push slowly and increasingly firmly.
Wamsutta
Well-known member
Instead of compromising, I would just get the wrenches individually in the sizes I needed most. Maybe even get one wrench at a time off ebay. As of now, I have one 18mm standard length and one 11/16" in the long pattern that they don't make anymore. The long patterns are going for stupid money on ebay because the sellers figured out that they're no longer in production. The front end guys like the long patterns for ball joint nuts.Maybe but, they don't have the market cornered like they once did. Check out the open end testing the Torque Test Channel did.
Living in the valley of the sun, rust is something seen on Yankee's vehicles that migrated here. Lots of Wisconsin plates here lately but, I digress. MAC RBRT although pricey, are pretty nice. You can also get the USAG clone at half off. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, bebop over to Lowes and grab the Craftsman Overdrive wrench set. At $75 bucks for a set (minus 11mm) you get the RBRT open and boxed end mated to a long pattern Dewalt Combination wrench which to me, is a sweet concept. Astro Flank Bite and Capri's are nice. I believe the Capri set offers a wider range of sizes. Advance auto parts even have a Die Hard long pattern set with teeth on the open end. The great thing that there are more choices available today than ever before, and you don't have to spend truck brand money to get a decent set.
I use a regular smooth open end on my ball joints because I don't want my ball joint nuts getting scratched.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
The RBRT cracked these. I think it's a similar scenario. 2014 Mack side step bracket. Fully exposed to the elements year round.
I didn't buy the RBRT specifically for these, but they're the situation I had in mind.
Those aren't even rusty, I can see the points of the head and the markings. I would do battle with that using basically anything commercially available. With that mounting location, you could just as easily choose to just snap the heads off than try to actually get them free and unthreaded.
Rusty is a 12mm stud, which had a 17mm nut on it, which I am hammering a 13mm onto after making it glow.
I wouldn't put a 12 point on them or even the Gearwrench 6s. Especially the nuts on the opposite side.