Wrench sets for rusted fasteners?

[JradM]

While I understand the objection about swollen fasteners, I don't think the point is for these special wrenches to become your de facto rusty-bolt removal tools. They're better than wrenches with standard jaws for damaged or stuck fasteners, but by all means, also use heat, penetrating lubricant or extractor sockets, etc, instead when those are options.

Open-ended wrenches wouldn't exist though, if they weren't sometimes the correct tool or the only one that fits.

I think TTI's analysis using soft coupler nuts is about as good a substitute for rusty fasteners as you can get. How else could you simulate it? You might intentionally rust fasteners with peroxide, vinegar & salt like Project Farm likes to do, but can you really trust that the results are consistent? Even if that works for surface rust, wouldn't there be too much potential variation if you tried rusting fasteners heavily?

With the coupler nuts, even though the wrenches all round them over, there's still a difference in how much torque the different designs achieve before the failure point.

 

[dchawk81]

While I understand the objection about swollen fasteners, I don't think the point is for these special wrenches to become your de facto rusty-bolt removal tools. They're better than wrenches with standard jaws for damaged or stuck fasteners, but by all means, also use heat, penetrating lubricant or extractor sockets, etc, instead when those are options.

Open-ended wrenches wouldn't exist though, if they weren't sometimes the correct tool or the only one that fits.

I think TTI's analysis using soft coupler nuts is about as good a substitute for rusty fasteners as you can get. How else could you simulate it? You might intentionally rust fasteners with peroxide, vinegar & salt like Project Farm likes to do, but can you really trust that the results are consistent? Even if that works for surface rust, wouldn't there be too much potential variation if you tried rusting fasteners heavily?

With the coupler nuts, even though the wrenches all round them over, there's still a difference in how much torque the different designs achieve before the failure point.

TTC.

TTI is the manufacturer of Milwaukee etc.

 

[JradM]

TTC.

TTI is the manufacturer of Milwaukee etc.

Must be a freudian slip.

 

[dchawk81]

Must be a freudian slip.

Thinking about those TTs.

 

[Jenkins]

Thinking about those TTs.

Better than thinking about swollen nuts all weekend.

 

[dchawk81]

Better than swollen thinking about swollen nuts all weekend.

Just need the wright grip to bust them.

 

[65ranchero]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned a air chisel with a long narrow bit.
I know not every one has a compressor big enough to handle the the cfm's but it's still worth thinking about.
It has bailed me out more that once by splitting a nut to remove a bolt in a hard to reach area.

 

[Jenkins]

Just need the wright grip to bust them.

True. Sometimes you just need a hard grip lots of oil and slow firm pressure. And patience.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned a air chisel with a long narrow bit.
I know not every one has a compressor big enough to handle the the cfm's but it's still worth thinking about.
It has bailed me out more that once by splitting a nut to remove a bolt in a hard to reach area.

I’ve done it with manual chisel before but I don’t think my compressor would even run an air one. 1/4” air ratchet barley works. I’ve also bent a stud splitting the nut. Lol. That didn’t work out well.

 

[Jenkins]

Just seen someone did a video on the Overdrive vs. the Mac/USAG. I’d really like to believe the the Craftsman are the same but they just don’t look as aggressive in the anti slip. Also got to wondering just how useful the box end would even be in a tight space given the 6pt aspect.