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Yard Hydrant Install

yeldogt

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I have two hydrants going into my new build -- one up by my studio and another by the driveway. The guys are trenching all over the property and I can piggyback in the space.

We added them to the permits and the inspector said he likes to see them in some concrete (top) with a valve on the line (curb valve). :willy_nil I have never put them in concrete (they are 3" deep) and another valve seems like overkill. I put them in sand and stone.

The pump equipment is in my studio - I'm running a new water line to the house and I can have the hydrants pop up along the way. I did not want any extra buried fittings -- was going to run new 1" black polly to each of the hydrants vs one line of both

How do most install these ? One is the ugly type -- the other is a nice old Murdock.
 
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ArkTinkerer

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I tie mine to a post and set them in gravel/sand so the bottom drain works. I also used a flex line on the bottom--I found with a tall pipe sticking out of the ground and kids around that the top of the hydrant gets pulled a lot. The flex line lets it move a bit without breaking the supply line.
 

rburke65

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I've not ever seen a flex lone but that doesn't mean much.....it just means I just learned something lose today on TGJ. But I have my three all secured to a 4x4" post.
 

nyy845

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Suggestion: Run a trace wire in the trench (especially with plastic lines) so if there is a problem in the future the line can be pinpointed.
 

joe_padavano

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I've never seen a yard hydrant in concrete - in fact that's a pretty stupid idea if you ever have to replace one (such as when a border whacked one of ours with a horse trailer... :rolleyes:

A shutoff someplace makes a lot of sense, especially when you have to rebuild one of them.
 
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yeldogt

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Looks like in some places the regulations have changed -- they need to have a back flow preventer on the line. I'm trying to get more information --- the concrete cap is to keep contaminants away from the base of the hydrant. The how/ why on the valve is still a mystery.

The back flow concern: The hydrants are freeze proof because each time you turn them off -- you expose a small hole at the bottom of the shaft. This hole allows any water in the shaft to drain out -- it stays open ... so if the hydrant happens to become flooded with high water table ... this water will enter the shaft and could bring contaminates with it.
 

JimVonBaden

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Mine is buried in 3' of crushed concrete with a tiny amount of concrete powder mixed with the top 6" of crushed concrete. I have a shut-off valve, but now see I need to add a backflow valve. Good info.
 
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yeldogt

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Mine is buried in 3' of crushed concrete with a tiny amount of concrete powder mixed with the top 6" of crushed concrete. I have a shut-off valve, but now see I need to add a backflow valve. Good info.

Is your shut off buried ?

I get the need for a shutoff -- was going to place it in with the well control equipment. I don't get the need for a second one near the hydrant ?

The backflow preventer (type) is also a bit of a mystery.
 

JimVonBaden

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Is your shut off buried ?

I get the need for a shutoff -- was going to place it in with the well control equipment. I don't get the need for a second one near the hydrant ?

The backflow preventer (type) is also a bit of a mystery.

No, my shut-off is under the house in the crawl space. All of my plumbing under the house is insulated.

I'm not sure I need a backflow valve based on this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Woodford-36-in-L-3-4-in-Female-Brass-Frost-Proof-Yard-Hydrant-Valve/3126707
 

CN Spots

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As far as I know, there's no law around here determining where you have to place a shut-off. They just isolate a section of line in case there's a problem. When I re-did mine I installed a shut off valve about a foot or so before the hydrant and filled the hole with small, rounded river rock that came out of an aquarium. I covered that with some 12" pavers. The rounded rock allows me to reach down to the shut off valve (20" deep) without digging. I wouldn't use sand or dirt. It'll clog up the hole at the bottom of the shaft.

Mine is clamped to a T post.
 
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yeldogt

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If you google "back flow" and "yard hydrant" // too much information comes up!

Jim - one of mine looks like yours the other is a big Murdock hydrant -- it seems this is a newish requirement.

I can see the need for a buried valve in a farm situation -- it may be far aways from any building with no understanding of how to turn it off.


CN - my normally way is to did the hole a bit deeper for the sand and the stones above -- we have clay soil -- nothing drains.
 

6768rogues

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I would ask the inspector for the code reference for anything he requires, or look it up yourself. I have no interest in what the inspector likes to see, only what is required by codes, rules and regulations. I spent a number of years in the code inspection field, and always kept that in mind. I never said, "I want" or "I like to see", rather, I always said, "The code requires..." followed by an explanation of the code reference and its intent. No more-no less.
 
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gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Just make sure whichever one you put in you can get rebuild kits for it, and ones that they don't over charge for.

I would hate to have the hydrant in cased in cement. The water splash would be knee high. I do a gravel pit.

I have less problem if I put an elbow on the drain and use landscape fabric around the drain rock. I have sandy loam and it flows every where and hydrants that don't get used much will clog otherwise.

Shut offs so you can isolate circuits are a good thing.
 

pattenp

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Virginia - USA
I'm in Chesterfield VA and code requires a backflow preventer on the supply line to yard hydrants​. The shut off valve at the hydrant is not required by code, just a convenience.
 
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yeldogt

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I'm in Chesterfield VA and code requires a backflow preventer on the supply line to yard hydrants​. The shut off valve at the hydrant is not required by code, just a convenience.

The type of back-flo is what I'm not sure about.
 
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