OP
Below 265 SQ/FT "you should knock it down" single car garage rescue
- Thread starter old_smokey
- Start date
All workspaces below 265 squarefeet.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Another big step, both windows are in! Went in easy, and added some cedar trim around the big window and the door. Caulked around the edges and good to go.
Now I really need to get on the window bar fabrication
Found a killer deal on a Lincoln 180 MIG welder. Going to pick it up tomorrow and get on the bars.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now I really need to get on the window bar fabrication
Found a killer deal on a Lincoln 180 MIG welder. Going to pick it up tomorrow and get on the bars.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
amkluttz
Well-known member
On frosting the window...
My bathroom has a window directly across from where you exit the shower. Not well thought out, I agree, but it was the only place for a window. It's a small window so no issue for me, but my wife disagreed. I ended up frosting the bottom section of the window and leaving the top clear. It's high enough you can't see through from the outside and still allows some outside view. With the window the way you installed it you could do something similar by leaving the top two opening sections clear. It's just a thought.
My bathroom has a window directly across from where you exit the shower. Not well thought out, I agree, but it was the only place for a window. It's a small window so no issue for me, but my wife disagreed. I ended up frosting the bottom section of the window and leaving the top clear. It's high enough you can't see through from the outside and still allows some outside view. With the window the way you installed it you could do something similar by leaving the top two opening sections clear. It's just a thought.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
I don't think I'll frost the windows, I put them in there to get a view! But I see the appeal in terms of minimizing theft.
That said, there were three garage break-ins on my block last week. Thieves are breaking into garages with no windows, so having a view inside first doesn't seem to matter.
I bought a Lincoln 180 MIG welder yesterday and will start the fabrication of window bars this week. In the mean time, I screwed some 2x6's across the windows on the inside so you can't get through without basically cutting your way in. SHould be good for now. Once the bars are done, I'll be hanging some curtains or blinds to keep prying eyes away.
On another note, I have a plan for my floor! I started another thread in the flooring section about this, but I'll give a brief run-down here:
A nearby church had a water issue which damaged a tiny section of their gym floor. The insurance company decided to write it off and replace. That left about 6,000 square feet of perfectly good oak flooring that was heading to the garbage. I caught wind of this and was able to snag 1,000 square feet for free!! It was cut out of the gym in 4x7 foot sections, with the flooring stapled to two sheets of 1/2" plywood. So i basically have huge panels that I'll need to cut to fit, then tongue and groove the edges. My concrete pad is in awful shape, with up to 2.5" variation in height. I'm going to level it off with treated wood and lay this gym floor on top.
I also picked up an insulated steel garage car door on the weekend, and gathered up all the insulation for the walls and ceiling. Starting to ramp up progress here.
That said, there were three garage break-ins on my block last week. Thieves are breaking into garages with no windows, so having a view inside first doesn't seem to matter.
I bought a Lincoln 180 MIG welder yesterday and will start the fabrication of window bars this week. In the mean time, I screwed some 2x6's across the windows on the inside so you can't get through without basically cutting your way in. SHould be good for now. Once the bars are done, I'll be hanging some curtains or blinds to keep prying eyes away.
On another note, I have a plan for my floor! I started another thread in the flooring section about this, but I'll give a brief run-down here:
A nearby church had a water issue which damaged a tiny section of their gym floor. The insurance company decided to write it off and replace. That left about 6,000 square feet of perfectly good oak flooring that was heading to the garbage. I caught wind of this and was able to snag 1,000 square feet for free!! It was cut out of the gym in 4x7 foot sections, with the flooring stapled to two sheets of 1/2" plywood. So i basically have huge panels that I'll need to cut to fit, then tongue and groove the edges. My concrete pad is in awful shape, with up to 2.5" variation in height. I'm going to level it off with treated wood and lay this gym floor on top.
I also picked up an insulated steel garage car door on the weekend, and gathered up all the insulation for the walls and ceiling. Starting to ramp up progress here.
Attachments
JABgj
Well-known member
Nice score on the flooring. That will be nice. Not that it is relevant to the thread, but many years ago my Dad scored a bowling alleys worth of lanes. There were countless bar tops and work benches made.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Progress in the shop.
First up I insulated all the walls except the car door wall, as I need to re frame it for the narrower door first. It was a pretty straightforward affair. I filled in all my blue foam electrical box channels, used spray foam around the windows and all other little crevasses and cracks, then filled between the studs with R12 batting. That’s all I can fit given the thin walls. I got the two long walls covered in vapour barrier, but ran out before I could do the back wall.
I still have to tape around the outlets and windows, and trim and seal the top and bottom edges. I’ll do that after the back wall is finished.
Yesterday I started on the window security bars. I bought 2” angle steel, 1/8” thick and built a frame. The cut 1” steel tubing for bars. I only cut the vertical bars so far. I want to test fit the frames, then drill the mounting holes, tack weld it together, position the vertical bars so they don’t interfere with window openers, and then cut and position the horizontal pieces.
And last, my dad surprised me with this nice ceiling hatch! It’s tapered with a 3” rigid foam “plug” that slides in from the top. This will give me access to my small attic storage space.
It fits between two joists in the middle of the room. I’m putting four sheets of 3/8 plywood I have handy on the top of the joists, giving me a pretty big extra storage platform.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First up I insulated all the walls except the car door wall, as I need to re frame it for the narrower door first. It was a pretty straightforward affair. I filled in all my blue foam electrical box channels, used spray foam around the windows and all other little crevasses and cracks, then filled between the studs with R12 batting. That’s all I can fit given the thin walls. I got the two long walls covered in vapour barrier, but ran out before I could do the back wall.
I still have to tape around the outlets and windows, and trim and seal the top and bottom edges. I’ll do that after the back wall is finished.
Yesterday I started on the window security bars. I bought 2” angle steel, 1/8” thick and built a frame. The cut 1” steel tubing for bars. I only cut the vertical bars so far. I want to test fit the frames, then drill the mounting holes, tack weld it together, position the vertical bars so they don’t interfere with window openers, and then cut and position the horizontal pieces.
And last, my dad surprised me with this nice ceiling hatch! It’s tapered with a 3” rigid foam “plug” that slides in from the top. This will give me access to my small attic storage space.
It fits between two joists in the middle of the room. I’m putting four sheets of 3/8 plywood I have handy on the top of the joists, giving me a pretty big extra storage platform.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Weekend progress
Finished up my roof joists.
Built some window bars out of 1” steel square tubing.
Installed the bars. They need some finish work and paint, but they’ll do the job as is for now.
This week I’m starting on the ceiling. Insulation, installing the ceiling hatch, fan, heater, and sheeting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Finished up my roof joists.
Built some window bars out of 1” steel square tubing.
Installed the bars. They need some finish work and paint, but they’ll do the job as is for now.
This week I’m starting on the ceiling. Insulation, installing the ceiling hatch, fan, heater, and sheeting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
95riosnake
Well-known member
The bars turned out nice! They actually give a bit of an old single pane factory window feel which is a nice effect.
driftpin
Well-known member
Good progress on everything. Before you button it up, I suggest you consider adding another muntin to the large window burglar bars. That space looks big-enough for a crack- or crank-addicted adult to squeeze-between.
I proudly completed a similar burglar bar system and proudly showed it to my friend, at which point he said, "I can fit between them," and it took him less than 5 seconds to have his entire upper torso through the open window. Granted, he's on the slim side, but I thought I was going to have security, which turned-out not to be the case. I added another horizontal bar trio to break-up the space. Looks like you only need one more. My window is a single-hung, and I can still open it easily.
See post #40 and after:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368713&highlight=burglar+bar&page=2
I proudly completed a similar burglar bar system and proudly showed it to my friend, at which point he said, "I can fit between them," and it took him less than 5 seconds to have his entire upper torso through the open window. Granted, he's on the slim side, but I thought I was going to have security, which turned-out not to be the case. I added another horizontal bar trio to break-up the space. Looks like you only need one more. My window is a single-hung, and I can still open it easily.
See post #40 and after:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368713&highlight=burglar+bar&page=2
Attachments
Last edited:
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Thanks for the comments and suggestion.
The reason I had left that open is because the divider in the window itself (between the big picture window and the two smaller opening windows at the top) acts as a bar. The steel bars sit almost flush with the window, so they only way you could squeeze in there is if you cut/smashed the window frame apart.
I do have to take them down anyway to finish and paint, might take up your suggestion anyway... peace of mind and all.
And agreed about the old window pane feel!
The reason I had left that open is because the divider in the window itself (between the big picture window and the two smaller opening windows at the top) acts as a bar. The steel bars sit almost flush with the window, so they only way you could squeeze in there is if you cut/smashed the window frame apart.
I do have to take them down anyway to finish and paint, might take up your suggestion anyway... peace of mind and all.
And agreed about the old window pane feel!
driftpin
Well-known member
Yes, I saw the window sash bar, I had that too, but decided to back it up with a bar. Guaranteed, someone's gonna have to make a lot of noise to defeat it like it is, but if you aren't home, they can make noise.
I thought about the construction of my bars awhile before I decided to use 1/2" solid bar stock. I wanted to use something hard to defeat, but not big and bulky. My top and bottom points of attachment for the vertical bars are welded on 4 sides, not-just 'spotted.' Same for the horizontal muntins, welded 4 sides. The top and bottom bar stock are through-bolted to the structural steel frame of the building, and would take something like a rotary abrasive wheel to defeat.
You should feel good about your work to save the building, it's come-out great, and should give you a workshop you can use for the duration.
I thought about the construction of my bars awhile before I decided to use 1/2" solid bar stock. I wanted to use something hard to defeat, but not big and bulky. My top and bottom points of attachment for the vertical bars are welded on 4 sides, not-just 'spotted.' Same for the horizontal muntins, welded 4 sides. The top and bottom bar stock are through-bolted to the structural steel frame of the building, and would take something like a rotary abrasive wheel to defeat.
You should feel good about your work to save the building, it's come-out great, and should give you a workshop you can use for the duration.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Finished a bit of concrete work last night.
This weekend I’m planning on installing my new insulated 8’ door. However the pad isn’t level on the ground, and it was impossible to seal tightly when closed. I had a 2” gap on one side! An insulated door is kinda pointless if it can’t keep the cold air out!
At some point in the past, someone had poured a thin strip of cement along the front edge of the door to minimize water getting in. It wasn’t under the door, it was in front of the door. It was put in before the previous owner bought the house, so it’s at least 11 years old. I decided to jack it out, then jack down an additional 1/2” into the pad, build a form, and lay a fresh layer of concrete down under the door.
I ended up cutting a grid pattern into the pad with a diamond blade on an angle grinder, then using a hammer drill to knock all the bits out. Not a fun job, but had it out in a few hours. Then I vacuumed and washed the concrete thoroughly, adding a hole in the lowest point for drainage.
That was two days ago. Yesterday I picked up some Quikrete Bonded Topping Mix, specifically designed for adhering to old concrete, up to a maximum thickness of 1/2”. Perfect!
My Dad brought his mixer over and we got to work. First we made a thin watery mix as a primer as per instructions, and scrubbed it into the old pad. Next up was mixing the main batch of concrete. We had a minor panic when we realized we were short by 1/2 a bag, but thankfully Home Depot is a few minutes away, so he ran for a bag while I finished off the second round of mix.
I used two pieces of angle steel screwed into each side of the door opening, and levelled them out. Then used a straight piece of lumber to drag across the new concrete, with each end of the wood sitting in the angle steel. I finished off the surface with a hand trowel.
It cooled off more than I expected over night, and curing took a little bit longer than expected. By this morning it was rock hard though.
I’ll look at cutting some reliefs into the new cement in the centre where the old pad was cracked. I’m sure the crack will move right into the new stuff in no time, so I’m hoping to minimize the damage when that happens.
Otherwise the door now closes totally flush with the floor.
Thursday I start sheeting the long walls so I can remove the cables I installed to pull the frame straight. Then Friday night the door construction starts. My new door is 8’, and the old one is 9’, so I have to re-frame the wall to fit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This weekend I’m planning on installing my new insulated 8’ door. However the pad isn’t level on the ground, and it was impossible to seal tightly when closed. I had a 2” gap on one side! An insulated door is kinda pointless if it can’t keep the cold air out!
At some point in the past, someone had poured a thin strip of cement along the front edge of the door to minimize water getting in. It wasn’t under the door, it was in front of the door. It was put in before the previous owner bought the house, so it’s at least 11 years old. I decided to jack it out, then jack down an additional 1/2” into the pad, build a form, and lay a fresh layer of concrete down under the door.
I ended up cutting a grid pattern into the pad with a diamond blade on an angle grinder, then using a hammer drill to knock all the bits out. Not a fun job, but had it out in a few hours. Then I vacuumed and washed the concrete thoroughly, adding a hole in the lowest point for drainage.
That was two days ago. Yesterday I picked up some Quikrete Bonded Topping Mix, specifically designed for adhering to old concrete, up to a maximum thickness of 1/2”. Perfect!
My Dad brought his mixer over and we got to work. First we made a thin watery mix as a primer as per instructions, and scrubbed it into the old pad. Next up was mixing the main batch of concrete. We had a minor panic when we realized we were short by 1/2 a bag, but thankfully Home Depot is a few minutes away, so he ran for a bag while I finished off the second round of mix.
I used two pieces of angle steel screwed into each side of the door opening, and levelled them out. Then used a straight piece of lumber to drag across the new concrete, with each end of the wood sitting in the angle steel. I finished off the surface with a hand trowel.
It cooled off more than I expected over night, and curing took a little bit longer than expected. By this morning it was rock hard though.
I’ll look at cutting some reliefs into the new cement in the centre where the old pad was cracked. I’m sure the crack will move right into the new stuff in no time, so I’m hoping to minimize the damage when that happens.
Otherwise the door now closes totally flush with the floor.
Thursday I start sheeting the long walls so I can remove the cables I installed to pull the frame straight. Then Friday night the door construction starts. My new door is 8’, and the old one is 9’, so I have to re-frame the wall to fit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
winnipegtibook
Well-known member
Fantastic work! Are you located in the big city, or outside? If you are looking to scrounge building supplies, I have some great leads. Wait for the 220 heater to go on sale at Princess. I've put many of them in, and they are the best bang for the proverbial buck
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
"you should knock it down" single car garage rescue
Hi, yes I am in the city! Good suggestion about PA. Any other tips?
Last night we sheeted the first wall. Half inch plywood, glued together with long splines, and glued to the top and bottom plates as well. It acts as one big piece glued to the frame and then 2” screws every 7-8” song every stud. This should hold the frame nice and straight once I release the tension from the turnbuckles.
Tonight I’m prepping for a big two day step in this project...the car door. Ya a foot narrower than the current opening so I have to the frame the wall. I’ll also need new siding as a result, but I just might have enough from cutting out the two windows. Fingers crossed. Tonight is prep, tomorrow is demo and construction. I hope to get the wall build and the vertical door tracks installed at minimum. That way the shop is closed and safe, while I can work on the ceiling and horizontal tracks afterward.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi, yes I am in the city! Good suggestion about PA. Any other tips?
Last night we sheeted the first wall. Half inch plywood, glued together with long splines, and glued to the top and bottom plates as well. It acts as one big piece glued to the frame and then 2” screws every 7-8” song every stud. This should hold the frame nice and straight once I release the tension from the turnbuckles.
Tonight I’m prepping for a big two day step in this project...the car door. Ya a foot narrower than the current opening so I have to the frame the wall. I’ll also need new siding as a result, but I just might have enough from cutting out the two windows. Fingers crossed. Tonight is prep, tomorrow is demo and construction. I hope to get the wall build and the vertical door tracks installed at minimum. That way the shop is closed and safe, while I can work on the ceiling and horizontal tracks afterward.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
Last edited:
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
One step closer this weekend..
With the new concrete footer cured and ready, it was time to put the door in.
Started on Friday night by prepping the materials at my Dad’s shop. Then early Saturday morning I took the old door out and knocked the wall out right down to the slab. It didn’t take long for the scrap metal guys to spot my old door and come take it away for me.
I used 2x6 pressure treated lumber for the new bottom plate, secured with two concrete anchors. There were some gaps under the plate, so I poured a thin layer of the same bonded topping mix onto the slab first, then bolted the bottom plate down. Now I’ve got a strong and mouse-proof footer along that wall.
Built up the frame and used some rigid foam insulation we found at the local dump, with the thinking that it might just help that wall stay a bit more rigid. There isn’t much ‘wall’ there to start with on account of the door. With the narrower door, rigid foam, and 1/2” plywood sheeting inside and out, it’s certainly stronger than it was before though.
By the end of Saturday we had the wall framed and exterior sheeted. I covered it with a sheet of Tyvek and tacked some plywood in behind for overnight.
Sunday morning I sheeted the inside of the wall with 1/2” as I mentioned, glueing the sheets in place with PL300, joining all the plywood with splines, and screws every 6 inches on every stud and top/bottom plate. It looks like an old riveted sheet metal plane with all these fasteners!
Door went in next. It was a pretty standard affair, but the good news is we have a near perfect seal along the bottom and sides. A bit of fine tuning and it’ll be really tight.
The upper rails will have to wait until I finish sheeting the ceiling, hopefully later this week even.
So, half the walls are now done… one step closer as the temp starts to drop!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With the new concrete footer cured and ready, it was time to put the door in.
Started on Friday night by prepping the materials at my Dad’s shop. Then early Saturday morning I took the old door out and knocked the wall out right down to the slab. It didn’t take long for the scrap metal guys to spot my old door and come take it away for me.
I used 2x6 pressure treated lumber for the new bottom plate, secured with two concrete anchors. There were some gaps under the plate, so I poured a thin layer of the same bonded topping mix onto the slab first, then bolted the bottom plate down. Now I’ve got a strong and mouse-proof footer along that wall.
Built up the frame and used some rigid foam insulation we found at the local dump, with the thinking that it might just help that wall stay a bit more rigid. There isn’t much ‘wall’ there to start with on account of the door. With the narrower door, rigid foam, and 1/2” plywood sheeting inside and out, it’s certainly stronger than it was before though.
By the end of Saturday we had the wall framed and exterior sheeted. I covered it with a sheet of Tyvek and tacked some plywood in behind for overnight.
Sunday morning I sheeted the inside of the wall with 1/2” as I mentioned, glueing the sheets in place with PL300, joining all the plywood with splines, and screws every 6 inches on every stud and top/bottom plate. It looks like an old riveted sheet metal plane with all these fasteners!
Door went in next. It was a pretty standard affair, but the good news is we have a near perfect seal along the bottom and sides. A bit of fine tuning and it’ll be really tight.
The upper rails will have to wait until I finish sheeting the ceiling, hopefully later this week even.
So, half the walls are now done… one step closer as the temp starts to drop!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
driftpin
Well-known member
One step closer this weekend..
With the new concrete footer cured and ready, it was time to put the door in.
Started on Friday night by prepping the materials at my Dad’s shop. Then early Saturday morning I took the old door out and knocked the wall out right down to the slab. It didn’t take long for the scrap metal guys to spot my old door and come take it away for me.
I used 2x6 pressure treated lumber for the new bottom plate, secured with two concrete anchors. There were some gaps under the plate, so I poured a thin layer of the same bonded topping mix onto the slab first, then bolted the bottom plate down. Now I’ve got a strong and mouse-proof footer along that wall.
Built up the frame and used some rigid foam insulation we found at the local dump, with the thinking that it might just help that wall stay a bit more rigid. There isn’t much ‘wall’ there to start with on account of the door. With the narrower door, rigid foam, and 1/2” plywood sheeting inside and out, it’s certainly stronger than it was before though.
By the end of Saturday we had the wall framed and exterior sheeted. I covered it with a sheet of Tyvek and tacked some plywood in behind for overnight.
Sunday morning I sheeted the inside of the wall with 1/2” as I mentioned, glueing the sheets in place with PL300, joining all the plywood with splines, and screws every 6 inches on every stud and top/bottom plate. It looks like an old riveted sheet metal plane with all these fasteners!
Door went in next. It was a pretty standard affair, but the good news is we have a near perfect seal along the bottom and sides. A bit of fine tuning and it’ll be really tight.
The upper rails will have to wait until I finish sheeting the ceiling, hopefully later this week even.
So, half the walls are now done… one step closer as the temp starts to drop.
Looks pretty-good. The extras you're doing should help it to outlive you.
I have a 1-car with shear walls on the gable end walls and for several feet down each side wall from the roll-up gable-end door. The P.E. designed the shear walls with 3/4" PT plywood. The fasteners are closely-spaced, fastened to 18 ga galvanized steel framing members, which is what is used instead of 2 x 6's.
I suggest you use some quality fasteners and through-bolt the perforated L-angles for the tracks, rather than just using lag bolts. Through-bolt them at least twice on each strap. Use fender washers for the other side of the through-bolt opposite the L-angle. Something even stouter might be better.
Attachments
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
3/4", that's a solid wall! I've got 1/2" on both sides. What's your thinking about through-bolting the garage door tracks instead of lag bolts? To make it that much harder for someone to pry their way in? I was intending on adding more L-brackets as they only included 3 per side.
The door is small - 8' wide, 6.5' tall, but still, I'd like it to be solid.
driftpin
Well-known member
The wall is Hardi-Board lapped sheathing on the outside, 3/4" PT siding outside, underneath, and another layer of 3/4"PT plywood sheathing inside, at the shear walls by the roll-up garage door.
Actually I was suggesting that on the horizontal tracks fastened to the ceiling joists. It's not needed, just stronger. I have a different roof construction than yours, and I use the OH door hardware for support of 'over the door' storage. The triangle-shaped space above the garage door I made into storage for light, bulky items infrequently needed, like Christmas ornaments, or empty bins awaiting use. This should give you an idea of the use.
I have a loft covering the rear-half of a 2-car garage, and at the opposite end, I have the area above the OH doors for storage as-well. The 2-car garage with the loft and the storage is CBS, the building which uses the shear wall 3/4" PT plywood inside & outside, covered outside with Hardi-Board, is another garage, a 1-car, at another house. Pictures below are the 2-car CBS building.
I suppose if you aren't going to use the OH door L-angle perforated steel in another additional role as support for a storage area above the door, there really isn't any-need to use anything but lag bolts into your structural wood members.
Attachments
Last edited:
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Nice progress 'saving' the building. Keep up the good work and pics.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
"you should knock it down" single car garage rescue
Ahh, Ok I understand your thinking with through-bolting. Won't really work in my situation though, at least the storage aspect. Once my ceiling is sheeted and floor is done, it'll only be about 6' 10" from the floor. I'm using a 'low headroom' track system for my door as a result, which utilizes a double track system along the ceiling. The door rides a few inches above the tracks and after some calculations, I think I'll only have about 2.5" between the ceiling and the door when it's in the open position. So no room for using the tracks as storage. Just barely enough room to run my lights for that matter!
Speaking of storage, I just about wrapped up my attic flooring last night. I have four sheets of 3/8" plywood that I muscled up above the joists. I cut out some reliefs with the jig saw so that they wrap around the vertical roof supports, resulting in a nice seamless storage area. I also cut out space for the access hatch.
While I was up there, I drilled out a 4.25" hole in a gable end and started running exhaust fan ducting. My plan is to install a fan above the work bench for sucking out fumes when working on carbs and other gassy stuff. I'm going to install the fan on the top of the attic flooring and run the intake pipe through the insulated ceiling to minimize the space in the ceiling that isn't insulated.
Speaking of which, I'm also starting to rough in solar heating ducting for down the road. All that means is putting in an intake/exhaust duct through the ceiling and plugging it for now. I can't wait to build a nice huge panel and put it up on the roof!
I fastened three of the four attic sheets down after using a router to cut a shallow channel in my joists to run all the wiring. The fourth I left off and pushed out of the way to make it easier to access during the fan installation.
Oh, and I still need a light up there.
Found my first mouse in the garage after wrapping up and enjoying a beer at the end of the day. Little ****** ran right past me, which was a blessing as I saw exactly where he snuck in. The door frame for the man door is basically a hollow cavity which I neglected to spray foam after installing. I could see a nice clear path for rodents to crawl through, so I'm adding that to the 'to do' list before it gets much colder.
Ahh, Ok I understand your thinking with through-bolting. Won't really work in my situation though, at least the storage aspect. Once my ceiling is sheeted and floor is done, it'll only be about 6' 10" from the floor. I'm using a 'low headroom' track system for my door as a result, which utilizes a double track system along the ceiling. The door rides a few inches above the tracks and after some calculations, I think I'll only have about 2.5" between the ceiling and the door when it's in the open position. So no room for using the tracks as storage. Just barely enough room to run my lights for that matter!
Speaking of storage, I just about wrapped up my attic flooring last night. I have four sheets of 3/8" plywood that I muscled up above the joists. I cut out some reliefs with the jig saw so that they wrap around the vertical roof supports, resulting in a nice seamless storage area. I also cut out space for the access hatch.
While I was up there, I drilled out a 4.25" hole in a gable end and started running exhaust fan ducting. My plan is to install a fan above the work bench for sucking out fumes when working on carbs and other gassy stuff. I'm going to install the fan on the top of the attic flooring and run the intake pipe through the insulated ceiling to minimize the space in the ceiling that isn't insulated.
Speaking of which, I'm also starting to rough in solar heating ducting for down the road. All that means is putting in an intake/exhaust duct through the ceiling and plugging it for now. I can't wait to build a nice huge panel and put it up on the roof!
I fastened three of the four attic sheets down after using a router to cut a shallow channel in my joists to run all the wiring. The fourth I left off and pushed out of the way to make it easier to access during the fan installation.
Oh, and I still need a light up there.
Found my first mouse in the garage after wrapping up and enjoying a beer at the end of the day. Little ****** ran right past me, which was a blessing as I saw exactly where he snuck in. The door frame for the man door is basically a hollow cavity which I neglected to spray foam after installing. I could see a nice clear path for rodents to crawl through, so I'm adding that to the 'to do' list before it gets much colder.
Attachments
Last edited:
winnipegtibook
Well-known member
Great (continued) work! Have you sourced out your man door yet? I may have access to some gently used steel man doors (with frames). These are very challenging to destroy. Not sure what your plans are for electrical / lights, but I went with a combo of the roughed in stuff (2 outlets pre-existing) and then did all my "new" work surface mount (using the shielded 14/2). I wish I'd known about the church flooring, I am always interested in awesome deals like that!
tboy
Well-known member
Subscribing for updates. I enjoy following along on build that are DIY, and done by people who put a lot of thought into what they are doing. This is looking great and I look forward to the end result.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
More progress on the garage last night:
I spent a few hours starting the ceiling insulation. Originally I was planning on using R20 batting with vapour barrier under, but I’ve decided to change it up a bit. I’m still using the R20, but under that I’ll be putting in an additional piece of DuroFoam polystyrene insulation, glued around it’s perimeter to the joists, with no poly vapour barrier.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.eps-rigid-insulation-96inch-x-48inch-x-15inch.1000116860.html
My reasoning for this is that I can create a vapour barrier in the ceiling by sealing/gluing the DuroFoam to the joists, and taping the seams where it meets the blue rigid foam wedges I glued along both edges of the roof. That leaves me with a bare wood surface on the bottom of the joists to screw AND glue my ceiling sheeting to.
Since the car door wall of the garage was leaning more than the man door side, I want to create as much strength as I can to resist twisting again. The first thing I did was install a narrower door. Now I’ll add additional strength with 3/8 sheeting, grooved with splines along the edges, then glued again to the joists, with screws every 6 inches. I think that’ll provide a lot of resistance to the building leaning to the side.
RE: Winnipegtibook - I do have a man door already - check the first page I think, I bought a commercial steel door off Kijiji for a great price. Steel frame too. The only weird thing is that it has a small window on the BOTTOM! My guess is a manufacturing error, hence the great price! It’s really solid. I tripled the studs on both sides and added a new dead bolt. I need to fab a plat to cover the deadbolt from would-be thieves though, as an added measure of protection. I was thinking some 1/8” steel plate welded to the door or something.
I also need to insulate the door. Right now it just has some cardboard beehive stuff in there to keep it quiet. I was thinking of cutting the top edge open a ways, pulling all that out, then filling it with rigid foam. It would be a little tricky working around the window and door, but could be done. Then I’d weld the door back together. Just a thought at this point. The ‘easy’ option would be simply adhering some rigid foam to the inside face of the door.
Tonight I’ll finish all the batting in the ceiling and cutting the DuroFoam to size. Later this week I hope to have the ceiling completely sheeted and finished, leaving only the remaining two walls to sheet, and the floor…..oh that floor.
Also, oh man. Working in a one car garage when it’s been raining for days is getting a bit silly here. Not enough room for materials and tools!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I spent a few hours starting the ceiling insulation. Originally I was planning on using R20 batting with vapour barrier under, but I’ve decided to change it up a bit. I’m still using the R20, but under that I’ll be putting in an additional piece of DuroFoam polystyrene insulation, glued around it’s perimeter to the joists, with no poly vapour barrier.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.eps-rigid-insulation-96inch-x-48inch-x-15inch.1000116860.html
My reasoning for this is that I can create a vapour barrier in the ceiling by sealing/gluing the DuroFoam to the joists, and taping the seams where it meets the blue rigid foam wedges I glued along both edges of the roof. That leaves me with a bare wood surface on the bottom of the joists to screw AND glue my ceiling sheeting to.
Since the car door wall of the garage was leaning more than the man door side, I want to create as much strength as I can to resist twisting again. The first thing I did was install a narrower door. Now I’ll add additional strength with 3/8 sheeting, grooved with splines along the edges, then glued again to the joists, with screws every 6 inches. I think that’ll provide a lot of resistance to the building leaning to the side.
RE: Winnipegtibook - I do have a man door already - check the first page I think, I bought a commercial steel door off Kijiji for a great price. Steel frame too. The only weird thing is that it has a small window on the BOTTOM! My guess is a manufacturing error, hence the great price! It’s really solid. I tripled the studs on both sides and added a new dead bolt. I need to fab a plat to cover the deadbolt from would-be thieves though, as an added measure of protection. I was thinking some 1/8” steel plate welded to the door or something.
I also need to insulate the door. Right now it just has some cardboard beehive stuff in there to keep it quiet. I was thinking of cutting the top edge open a ways, pulling all that out, then filling it with rigid foam. It would be a little tricky working around the window and door, but could be done. Then I’d weld the door back together. Just a thought at this point. The ‘easy’ option would be simply adhering some rigid foam to the inside face of the door.
Tonight I’ll finish all the batting in the ceiling and cutting the DuroFoam to size. Later this week I hope to have the ceiling completely sheeted and finished, leaving only the remaining two walls to sheet, and the floor…..oh that floor.
Also, oh man. Working in a one car garage when it’s been raining for days is getting a bit silly here. Not enough room for materials and tools!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Oh and I completely forgot to mention, finished installing my exhaust fan. I located it directly above the future work bench. The fan is sitting on a box so I could use a straight piece of pipe to the outside wall. The box it’s sitting on is full of rigid foam, which I cut a hole into and pushed a piece of pipe inside for the inlet. That runs through the ceiling and into the shop space. This minimized how much space the fan took up in the insulated ceiling. When not in use, I can stuff a round foam plug into the inlet to preserve even more warmth. Just can’t forget to take it out when I switch it on!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
winnipegtibook
Well-known member
I realized you had a door AFTER posting, my apologies.
What would work well is a "door insert", which is essentially the foam they use inside commercial doors. I might be able to get you a piece for not much $$$, what's the size you need, and what's the width of the door?
I should probably do some updates as well....happy to see the progress. Oh, every single garage needs a 78 inch wide toolbox...just sayin'
What would work well is a "door insert", which is essentially the foam they use inside commercial doors. I might be able to get you a piece for not much $$$, what's the size you need, and what's the width of the door?
I should probably do some updates as well....happy to see the progress. Oh, every single garage needs a 78 inch wide toolbox...just sayin'
More progress on the garage last night:
I spent a few hours starting the ceiling insulation. Originally I was planning on using R20 batting with vapour barrier under, but I’ve decided to change it up a bit. I’m still using the R20, but under that I’ll be putting in an additional piece of DuroFoam polystyrene insulation, glued around it’s perimeter to the joists, with no poly vapour barrier.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.eps-rigid-insulation-96inch-x-48inch-x-15inch.1000116860.html
My reasoning for this is that I can create a vapour barrier in the ceiling by sealing/gluing the DuroFoam to the joists, and taping the seams where it meets the blue rigid foam wedges I glued along both edges of the roof. That leaves me with a bare wood surface on the bottom of the joists to screw AND glue my ceiling sheeting to.
Since the car door wall of the garage was leaning more than the man door side, I want to create as much strength as I can to resist twisting again. The first thing I did was install a narrower door. Now I’ll add additional strength with 3/8 sheeting, grooved with splines along the edges, then glued again to the joists, with screws every 6 inches. I think that’ll provide a lot of resistance to the building leaning to the side.
RE: Winnipegtibook - I do have a man door already - check the first page I think, I bought a commercial steel door off Kijiji for a great price. Steel frame too. The only weird thing is that it has a small window on the BOTTOM! My guess is a manufacturing error, hence the great price! It’s really solid. I tripled the studs on both sides and added a new dead bolt. I need to fab a plat to cover the deadbolt from would-be thieves though, as an added measure of protection. I was thinking some 1/8” steel plate welded to the door or something.
I also need to insulate the door. Right now it just has some cardboard beehive stuff in there to keep it quiet. I was thinking of cutting the top edge open a ways, pulling all that out, then filling it with rigid foam. It would be a little tricky working around the window and door, but could be done. Then I’d weld the door back together. Just a thought at this point. The ‘easy’ option would be simply adhering some rigid foam to the inside face of the door.
Tonight I’ll finish all the batting in the ceiling and cutting the DuroFoam to size. Later this week I hope to have the ceiling completely sheeted and finished, leaving only the remaining two walls to sheet, and the floor…..oh that floor.
Also, oh man. Working in a one car garage when it’s been raining for days is getting a bit silly here. Not enough room for materials and tools!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Haha 78' toolbox, I wish!
I have a Snap On box that'll live in here, it's maybe 40", with a hutch on top, and a cabinet on top of that. I'm not actually sure if it'll fit inside with my low ceilings, might have to remove the castors...
I'll be building a steel work bench along the man-door wall once the floor is in. The plan is an L-shaped bench, with a 52" rolling chest under it. I considered 'framing' the box into the bench permanently, but I like the idea of being able to pull it out and doubling my work surface. Plus it would give me leg room if I was sitting at the bench for a long time.
I've been trying to hunt down one of those newer style Milwaukee expanded tool boxes with the chrome trim, but they look to have been a one-off. The original style is fine, but they are only 18" deep, vs 22". Might just put a Husky 52" box in there in the end.
The work bench is probably what I'm most excited to build. It'll give me an opportunity to use that welder I splurged on for the window bars.
Spent a few hours in the shop last night and just about finished the ceiling insulation. I got all the white batting in and all the duro foam I had pre-cut. I'm short seven little bits which I'll take care of later this week.
I have a Snap On box that'll live in here, it's maybe 40", with a hutch on top, and a cabinet on top of that. I'm not actually sure if it'll fit inside with my low ceilings, might have to remove the castors...
I'll be building a steel work bench along the man-door wall once the floor is in. The plan is an L-shaped bench, with a 52" rolling chest under it. I considered 'framing' the box into the bench permanently, but I like the idea of being able to pull it out and doubling my work surface. Plus it would give me leg room if I was sitting at the bench for a long time.
I've been trying to hunt down one of those newer style Milwaukee expanded tool boxes with the chrome trim, but they look to have been a one-off. The original style is fine, but they are only 18" deep, vs 22". Might just put a Husky 52" box in there in the end.
The work bench is probably what I'm most excited to build. It'll give me an opportunity to use that welder I splurged on for the window bars.
Spent a few hours in the shop last night and just about finished the ceiling insulation. I got all the white batting in and all the duro foam I had pre-cut. I'm short seven little bits which I'll take care of later this week.
Attachments
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Made some more steps finishing the ceiling last night. Completed the dura foam insulation, glueing and taping the edges for a complete vapour seal. Then started sheeting with 3/8 plywood.
I used PL adhesive on the bottom edge of my joists as well as splines between each sheet of ply. I only managed to fit three pieces in last night, will do the rest tonight and tomorrow.
Screwed each sheet every six inches and it’s starting to really feel like progress is happening now. I gave all my leftover R20 and R12 to my dad for the family cabin, essentially tripling my available floorspace hah! All the scrap cut offs are in my burn pile, and I can finally walk around my Honda without climbing over material.
The outside temp dropped below freezing last night but it stayed nice and comfortable inside, and that’s will the car door still FAR from sealing up yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used PL adhesive on the bottom edge of my joists as well as splines between each sheet of ply. I only managed to fit three pieces in last night, will do the rest tonight and tomorrow.
Screwed each sheet every six inches and it’s starting to really feel like progress is happening now. I gave all my leftover R20 and R12 to my dad for the family cabin, essentially tripling my available floorspace hah! All the scrap cut offs are in my burn pile, and I can finally walk around my Honda without climbing over material.
The outside temp dropped below freezing last night but it stayed nice and comfortable inside, and that’s will the car door still FAR from sealing up yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
Growlertdi
Well-known member
nice progress. looking forward to seeing how this develops
IowaMercMan
Well-known member
"you should knock it down" single car garage rescue
Good job! I have a question, and I’m certainly no expert. It doesn’t get quite as cold in Iowa as it does in Winnipeg, so construction methods are probably different. Here, we do not put a vapor barrier in the ceiling, so the vapor can escape. Usually blown-in insulation or unfaced fiberglass bats. Especially with unheated space above. If you start seeing ice or moisture on the inside of windows, your ceiling vapor barrier will be why.
Walt
Good job! I have a question, and I’m certainly no expert. It doesn’t get quite as cold in Iowa as it does in Winnipeg, so construction methods are probably different. Here, we do not put a vapor barrier in the ceiling, so the vapor can escape. Usually blown-in insulation or unfaced fiberglass bats. Especially with unheated space above. If you start seeing ice or moisture on the inside of windows, your ceiling vapor barrier will be why.
Walt
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Re: "you should knock it down" single car garage rescue
I'm no expert either, but up here I was required to do it. In fact it was the only thing my inspector specifically pointed out during my initial inspection. Winter regularly drops down to -40F, with common day-time temps around -18F to -25F. It's already below freezing now.
My ceiling is the most heavily insulated part of the garage. The uninsulated attic space has venting at both ends. I had to do some research on the thinking behind vapour barriers in ceilings in very cold climates, and found this explanation:
In a severe cold climate (more than 8,000 heating degree days) there is not enough heat loss into an attic from the house to allow attic ventilation to remove much moisture. Attic ventilation requires heat loss to remove moisture from attics. Cold air can't hold much moisture. Ventilating a heavily insulated attic with outside air when it is real cold does not remove moisture. We do not want any moisture in an attic in a severe cold climate for this reason. This changes in locations where it is not so miserably cold. Hence, the recommendation for a vapor barrier in severe cold climate and only a vapor retarder in most other locations.
I suspect where I live would be considered "miserably cold"
I'm no expert either, but up here I was required to do it. In fact it was the only thing my inspector specifically pointed out during my initial inspection. Winter regularly drops down to -40F, with common day-time temps around -18F to -25F. It's already below freezing now.
My ceiling is the most heavily insulated part of the garage. The uninsulated attic space has venting at both ends. I had to do some research on the thinking behind vapour barriers in ceilings in very cold climates, and found this explanation:
In a severe cold climate (more than 8,000 heating degree days) there is not enough heat loss into an attic from the house to allow attic ventilation to remove much moisture. Attic ventilation requires heat loss to remove moisture from attics. Cold air can't hold much moisture. Ventilating a heavily insulated attic with outside air when it is real cold does not remove moisture. We do not want any moisture in an attic in a severe cold climate for this reason. This changes in locations where it is not so miserably cold. Hence, the recommendation for a vapor barrier in severe cold climate and only a vapor retarder in most other locations.
I suspect where I live would be considered "miserably cold"
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Last night dad and I just about finished the ceiling
We have 1.5 sheets left, then about 2 evenings to sheet the remaining walls. At that point I’ll take the cables down, paint, finish wiring, and install the upper garage door rails.
I added more LED strip lights too. I have six up now. Two more once the sheeting is done. It is BRIGHT in here!
This weekend I’ll start painting the new exterior trim and brickmould for the car door wall. Snow and rain in the forecast, so I’d like to get that exterior work done quick!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We have 1.5 sheets left, then about 2 evenings to sheet the remaining walls. At that point I’ll take the cables down, paint, finish wiring, and install the upper garage door rails.
I added more LED strip lights too. I have six up now. Two more once the sheeting is done. It is BRIGHT in here!
This weekend I’ll start painting the new exterior trim and brickmould for the car door wall. Snow and rain in the forecast, so I’d like to get that exterior work done quick!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
winnipegtibook
Well-known member
Great work! FYI - Princess Auto had the heaters on sale.
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Sweet, I'll check it out! Thanks!
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Been miserable outside for weeks but it looks like sun the next two days, so I’m getting the siding ready to install.
Since the insulated car door is a foot narrower than the original, the old siding couldn’t be reused. It was pretty tattered anyway. I found some siding that was almost the same shape as the original. A bit of modification on the router table has it looking pretty much identical.
Last night I painted all the siding, brickmould and trim pieces. It’ll need another coat, but that can be in spring after I strip the remaining old siding paint and choose a new colour. This is good enough to protect the wood over winter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Since the insulated car door is a foot narrower than the original, the old siding couldn’t be reused. It was pretty tattered anyway. I found some siding that was almost the same shape as the original. A bit of modification on the router table has it looking pretty much identical.
Last night I painted all the siding, brickmould and trim pieces. It’ll need another coat, but that can be in spring after I strip the remaining old siding paint and choose a new colour. This is good enough to protect the wood over winter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Very nice work and awesome to see the father and son aspect to the build! I feel ya on the cold weather I built most of my garage in the Alberta winter...
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Spent a couple hours on the exterior today. I got all the siding and trim installed without much difficulty, and also repaired the sagging eves troughs. The fascia needs to be replaced ASAP but this will do till I replace the roof in spring.
Here's how the shop looked this morning.
The two full length pieces were difficult to fit to the old siding, but I made it happen. Here I've also finished the trim and moulding inside and around the door.
All done except the corner trim
And done! Eves straightened out and downspouts back in place.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's how the shop looked this morning.
The two full length pieces were difficult to fit to the old siding, but I made it happen. Here I've also finished the trim and moulding inside and around the door.
All done except the corner trim
And done! Eves straightened out and downspouts back in place.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attachments
Last edited:
captain14
Well-known member
Very nice work on the outside trim and siding installation.
What color(s) are you thinking for the interior plywood?
How many exterior electric plugs do you have?
What color(s) are you thinking for the interior plywood?
How many exterior electric plugs do you have?
OP
old_smokey
Well-known member
Thank you!
For the inside I was going to stick with white for the ceiling and three walls. The man-door wall I thought would look nice in a British Racing Green. After the door, window, and future workbench, there isn't much wall left open, so it would be a nice accent without making the room feel dark.
Downside of white everywhere else is that it gets dirty quickly. So I'm not sure... open to suggestions. Maybe a darker grey for the first 3 feet, then white?
Outside I only have one plug, for my block heater. It's on a switch and a timer. Given the tiny size of my parking pad, I figured one was enough. There is another outlet on the back of my house close to the man door. I do already regret the location of my welding plug though. I should have put it on the opposite wall. since I have to do all my welding outside on the parking pad, I now have to buy a welding extension cord for the machine to reach. On the plus side, that cord will probably come in useful in other locations anyway.
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
500% better!
winnipegtibook
Well-known member
Don't paint it, please don't paint it!!!!!!