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Your Favorite Small Gas Engine Tools!

joel63

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
1,907
Location
Central FL
S/O ratcheting screwdriver with a hex to 1/4" drive adapter so I can put sockets on it.




This works great, but make sure the socket is secured to the drive tool!! Had one horizontal shaft engine fire up and when I went to pull the drill away the socket stayed on the flywheel:eyecrazy: Before I could get the engine shut down that socket took off like a chrome meteor and it took me 20 minutes to find it. Had it hit me in the head I would have been in the ER!


Sorry, but this made spit out my iced tea. :lol_hitti :lol_hitti :lol_hitti

Glad to hear you didn't have to do the ER routine. :thumbup:
 
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JBradley500

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Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
781
Husqvarna part # 530035560 Splined Carb Adjusting Tool
I own a lot of Husqvarna 2-stroke outdoor power equipment and only run LL100 Av Gas & Klotz R50 oil. The carbs always need re-tuning and this is the tool to use.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6NEODA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Do you happen to know if this will work with my Husqvarna 323L Straight Shaft Trimmer? Im getting to the point where the carb needs it's adjustment from stock.
 

Raven GT

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Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
83
Location
The Netherlands
A pack of mascotte rolling papers gets my vote.
Fold the lid double, and its just about exactly 0.40 mm thick , and usefull as a feeler gauge for both the spark plug gap and points gap on old german and Japanese mopeds.

Want to know exactly when the points open, put a rolling paper in between the points, turn the crankshaft while pulling the paper, when it starts to slide out , points are opening.

That and and old sparkplug socket with an old 14mm socket welded on the 1/2 inch drive side, and an old flathead screwdriver shank welded on the side as a handle.

Shank had two grooves ingraved in it, that lined up with the top of the sparkplug hole in the cilinderhead.
1 was top dead center, 2nd was 2mm below top dead center, very useful for setting ignition timing when your points fail in the middle of no where...

14 mm is for loosening the Bing carburetor float bowl.

Flathead screwdriver for engine covers, airhose, carburetor mounting screw, and a whole load of other stuff.

That silly contraption saved me from walking home a lot of times... :thumbup:
 

cheechi

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
4,384
Location
Triad, NC
That and and old sparkplug socket with an old 14mm socket welded on the 1/2 inch drive side, and an old flathead screwdriver shank welded on the side as a handle.
A homemade scrench?

13+mm+X+19+mm+Scrench+Tool.jpg
 

OutsideMachinist

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
986
Location
Norfolk, VA
family-gas-200.jpg


Worked pretty well for me. Was recommended to me by an instructor I had who was the maintenance supervisor for a local ferry. They used it for all their smaller engines, outboards, smaller generators etc. Lotta marine guys like this stuff.

Seafoam has worked a lot for me also. Don't use seafoam in diesels.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,114
Location
SE MI
I must say be very extra careful using that "fine stiff wire" when repairing diaphragm carburetors.

I had a good friend ruin many carburetors with that "fine stiff wire."

I can't imagine how a single wire from a steel wire brush could "ruin" a carburetor, at least not metal parts. Sure it will pierce "rubber" parts, possibly fuel lines and gasket/seals.

If the wire you are using can scratch the surface of the carburetor, it is too stiff/strong. Do NOT use a mechanic's pick !
 
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joel63

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Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
1,907
Location
Central FL
I can't imagine how a single wire from a steel wire brush could "ruin" a carburetor, at least none metal parts. Sure it will pierce "rubber" parts, possibly fuel lines and gasket/seals.

If the wire you are using can scratch the surface of the carburetor, it is too stiff/strong. Do NOT use a mechanic's pick !

The main parts of a diaphragm carburetor that can be ruined with wire are the check valves in the fuel pump side of the carburetor.

They are located under the 2 little holes under the plastic flange, and you can't see them or service them.

My good friend ruined a few in his time, even after telling him several times not to use the wire in those spots.
 
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Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
The main parts of a diaphragm carburetor that can be ruined with wire are the check valves in the fuel pump side of the carburetor.

They are located under the 2 little holes under the plastic flange, and you can't see them or service them.

My good friend ruined a few in his time, even after telling him several times not to use the wire in those spots.

Which is why a chemical solution is always favorable. :thumbup:
 
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lars

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
45
Location
PA
Some of my favorites are a good hose pick and a 1/4 inch hand driver that accepts a 1/4 inch ratchet on the handle.

I also love my E-Z tach for keeping my chain saws just on the edge of blowing up:).
 

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Raven GT

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
83
Location
The Netherlands
A homemade scrench?

13+mm+X+19+mm+Scrench+Tool.jpg

Exactly! :bowdown:

Used to have one with 21 and 10 mm, but a Bing Carburetor Floatbowl,
is a 14mm, and the flathead screws for the engine cover and such are sorta Huge :bounce:
And the one I had was kinda flimsy, plus it had a tiny flathead
So I made my own out of spare german quality tools :thumbup:
 

Mechanical Noise

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Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
2,635
Location
Southeast of O'Hare
I use an impact hammer with a punch insert to loosen my small engine flywheels.

Starting fluid can be handy for that first springtime start. I get the fuel pretty well drained before storing. I've been fine without any gas additives.
 

diggerrick

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
996
I've heard a lot about the wonders of Sea Foam, but still haven't tried it myself. Is it good to use for winter storage, or is it more of spring cleaner?
 
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Farmall450

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
I use an impact hammer with a punch insert to loosen my small engine flywheels.

Starting fluid can be handy for that first springtime start. I get the fuel pretty well drained before storing. I've been fine without any gas additives.

I just give them a gently tap on the crankshaft w/ the nut on, absorbing the direct impact. Assuming no pullers are handy.

I've heard a lot about the wonders of Sea Foam, but still haven't tried it myself. Is it good to use for winter storage, or is it more of spring cleaner?

I'd through it in during the fall in order to run some through the lines and carb.

My favorite small engine tool is my little hose pinchers.

Agreed, they sure can save a mess!
 
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