Your First MaxJax: What to Expect

[ajrweb]

You can ask for additional anchors when ordering the lift or you can buy them via the web...

The anchors are WEJ-IT® POWER-Drop - 7/8 x 3-13/16 (5/8 Internal thread) - http://www.alliedbolt.com/wejit.html

I found serveral places on the web that sells them:

http://www.toolfetch.com/p-801-wd-58-3.shtml

http://store.eberliron.com/products/wej_it_concrete_anchors/power_drop_drop_in_anchor

http://www.drillspot.com/products/43499/Wej-IT_PD-58_Drop-IN_Anchor

Another great suggestions is to also pour some epoxy for concrete before dropping the anchor and/or to fill any space on top of the anchor... I should have thought about it before I did the others... a bit late now, but will do so for the ones in the second bay.

Thanks for the information !!

AJ

 

[///Mflossin]

Looks great! That installation atop the tile is sort of scaring me though.

 

[///Mflossin]

Wachuko,
Do you know what the length is on the 5/8" bolts? I will be placing my lift atop the racedeck so....I need to buy bolts that 1/2" longer.

 

[wachuko]

Wachuko,
Do you know what the length is on the 5/8" bolts? I will be placing my lift atop the racedeck so....I need to buy bolts that 1/2" longer.

Sure! The bolts that came with the lift are 5/8" x 2"

 

[///Mflossin]

Awesome....thank you for that piece of info. Please continue to give us your feedback regarding the lift....looks great though!

 

[Axis11]

Sure! The bolts that came with the lift are 5/8" x 2"

Looks good. nice 996.

Did you buy longer bolts to make up for the extra stackup added by the tiles?
I'm sure the thread engagement was designed with the lift on the concrete. Your method reduces that engagement by the tile thickness, but I'm sure you already knew that.

Did you ask anyone at danmar about mounting over tile?

 

[PAToyota]

I will be placing my lift atop the racedeck so....I need to buy bolts that 1/2" longer.

You may want to run that past Dannmar. I could see the racedeck compressing under load and leading to an unsafe condition.

 

[wachuko]

Wachuko,
Do you know what the length is on the 5/8" bolts? I will be placing my lift atop the racedeck so....I need to buy bolts that 1/2" longer.

That would not be a good thing... I am with PAToyota on this one... those are resin tiles that will not take the load... pull it out and cut them around the lift... get a few spares to replace when the lift is not in place...

I did it on top of my porcelain tiles because I did the install of the tiles, have been working on them for the past 4 years... they are solid... even so, at the first sign of a crack, those are also out.

 

[wachuko]

Looks good. nice 996.

Did you buy longer bolts to make up for the extra stackup added by the tiles?
I'm sure the thread engagement was designed with the lift on the concrete. Your method reduces that engagement by the tile thickness, but I'm sure you already knew that.

Did you ask anyone at danmar about mounting over tile?

Not for the initial tests. I am waiting for additional anchors and longer bolts. I am using the ones that came with the lift to cover the holes while the lift is out. might grind them a bit so the heads go in a little more.

Nope, did not consult with Danmar... I knew the answer... I know that the best thing to do is to remove the tiles and mount directly to the concrete... might do that in the very near future...

 

[Shocker]

If I am not mistaken, Racedeck supports 60,000 psi per sqft. Many lifts have been installed over Racedeck without failure.

 

[///Mflossin]

If I am not mistaken, Racedeck supports 60,000 psi per sqft. Many lifts have been installed over Racedeck without failure.

You are correct....the RaceDeck is MUCH safer than any tile. RaceDeck said that there would be no problem whatsoever with mounting the lift atop their tiles. I have jacked the car up many times and when you put the jack wheels under a squar piece of sheetmetal to spread the load....no problem at all with marring the surface. I have no doubts at all the the base plate of the lift with be no issue at all for the RaceDeck tile. I have 18" X 18" tiles too so....even better. No reason to cut the tile....just drill holes and place the bolts through the base plate, through the tile and into the concrete insert....voila!

 

[cw_racefan]

Picked mine up from the trucking company last night No problem in an S-10 pickup. Got it unloaded and inventoried, as Wachuko, have 2 motorcycle adapters, but missing the extra quick disconnect. Also had 8 wheels (in addition to the ones on the cart)? 4 black and 4 white. It was a little scratched up from shipping, but no major problems. Hopefully will try to install this weekend. My only issue is I'm not really sure how far apart to mount the columns. I guess its just a lay it out and try to reach the lift points on the vehicles I have? I need to find the lift points first!

 

[FlameOut]

Maybe I should inventory mine. I shoved it, still wrapped up, back in the corner of my garage until I'm ready in my new garage. I'm thinking I shouldn't have any problems getting the parts, if I am missing something.

 

[wachuko]

... My only issue is I'm not really sure how far apart to mount the columns. I guess its just a lay it out and try to reach the lift points on the vehicles I have? I need to find the lift points first!

If it helps in any way, here is what I have experienced so far trying to decide on how far apart to put them.

In the single bay I have mine at 115" (measured from the outside of the base). Getting out of the car is a tight fit. Moving the arms into position is also a tight fit... arms need to be all the way in and, depending on the car, I need to have someone in the car to move forward while I slide the arm in, and them backwards a little to slide the second arm in. Keep in mind that test cars were Porsche 911 ('83, '91, '02). Something with a longer wheel base will not be so much of an issue. I also took into consideration being able to close the garage door with the car on the lift, sounds stupid, but I just want to make sure you don't drill it with the right width only to find out that half the car is sticking out of the garage...


In the double bay I have them at 128" (again, measured from the outside of the base) and it works great... easy access to the lifting points, easy to open the doors, still within the 130" limit in the install manual for trucks (eventhough I am using it for smaller cars), and I can slide the arms in and out without having a second person moving the car around.

 

[///Mflossin]

Awesome input Wachuko. Thanks for that piece of info. I myself have done some measuring and I think between 120-125" will be perfect for my garage/cars.

 

[ajrweb]

Finally was able to get to the trucking terminal to pick up my lift. I actually was able to unload it from the back of a Uhaul with a engine hoist. Real easy !!!

 

[Axis11]

Man I have not even had any contact from Danmar about mine. Gabe told me I was #3 on the list of 35. I wonder what's up

Definetley call him; he'll be able to tell you where your order is, so you can ease your mind. I think shipping was based on local not order, but what do I know?

 

[Kojak]

How many of the quick disconnect fittings are there supposed to be total? my parts list says 4 male and 4 female. I do have 4 of each but it sounds like there is supposed to be a 5th, can someone advise? thanks.

 

[cw_racefan]

You need 4 for normal operation, but you need a 5th female QD for the motorcycle adapter (to use one column). I think they didn't get included, since normal orders won't ship with the m/c adapter. Call Gabe and he'll fix you up!

 

[///Mflossin]

Wachuko,
It appears as if you had to open the holes up on the base a bit. Was this because you didn't drill the holes just perfect? Also....was it totally necessary to D clip the washers. By the looks of it (through pics), it appears as if though this was totally necessary. If this is the case, why doesn't DanMar provide the clipped washers? (rhetorical question )

 

[cw_racefan]

Ok, so I have my first question/concern for Danmar on my lift.....

On the website, it says power requirements for 110V is a 15 amp circuit. In the manual, it says it requires a dedicated 30 amp circuit. On the motor, there are 2 different plates, one from Stone Hydraulics, the other from Emerson. The Emerson plate says 14.5-14.8 amps (would require a 20 amp circuit) the Stone one says 21 amps at max load (would require a 30 amp circuit). So....does it require 15, 20, or 30 amps? My garage outlets are on 20 amp circuits, so hopefully I'm ok, but there's definitely a big discrepency here in documentation. The power cord on the unit is definitely a 15 amp plug, with 14AWG wire, so the chord is definitely only good to 15 amps. Not sure if Jeff or Gabe are following this thread, but hopefully they'll chime in.

Wachuko - since you've used yours, how big a circuit are you running it on?

 

[tatra]

am i ever glad you posted this question as i was wondering the same thing.............gabe?.........

 

[ogme042]

Ok, so I have my first question/concern for Danmar on my lift.....

On the website, it says power requirements for 110V is a 15 amp circuit. In the manual, it says it requires a dedicated 30 amp circuit. On the motor, there are 2 different plates, one from Stone Hydraulics, the other from Emerson. The Emerson plate says 14.5-14.8 amps (would require a 20 amp circuit) the Stone one says 21 amps at max load (would require a 30 amp circuit). So....does it require 15, 20, or 30 amps? My garage outlets are on 20 amp circuits, so hopefully I'm ok, but there's definitely a big discrepency here in documentation. The power cord on the unit is definitely a 15 amp plug, with 14AWG wire, so the chord is definitely only good to 15 amps. Not sure if Jeff or Gabe are following this thread, but hopefully they'll chime in.

Wachuko - since you've used yours, how big a circuit are you running it on?

Have installed mine. Wondered the same thing at first, but I don't think I've seen a 30 amp outlet for a standard 3 prong plug. Have lifted several vehicles on a 20 amp circuit with no problems.

 

[wachuko]

I am using it on a 15amp circuit... and sometimes it would trip the breaker.

I am going to wire a 30amp circuit for it.

 

[cw_racefan]

I am using it on a 15amp circuit... and sometimes it would trip the breaker.

I am going to wire a 30amp circuit for it.

Interesting...we may have found our first oops for them to fix. The chord is a 14awg chord, only rated to 15amps. Seems like the weak link, if indeed it does need a 20 or 30 amp circuit.

Mine's all assembled, just waiting for the time this weekend to finalize layout and drill holes!

Oh yeah, anyone have a good source for lifting points on vehicles until they get the lifting points guide out? I have a couple that I have no idea where the lift points are!

 

[tatra]

maybe start a thread with the specicifc cars you want to lift........i believe generally you are safe with the jacking points on cars..........course this may be wrong with newer vehicles...........

 

[volvo]

....Oh yeah, anyone have a good source for lifting points on vehicles until they get the lifting points guide out? I have a couple that I have no idea where the lift points are!......
.
..
One could start with that little book in the glove box,( under lifting points).. It has been many years since I have seen a booklet on lift points

 

[JSK]

To all...

Sorry for taking so long. I wanted to do a real-world test. We loaded a MJ with a new Chevy ½-ton truck. I suspect 4600’ish lbs. Here’s what we found.

Lift plugged directly into wall socket.

• Voltage at motor pre-running was 120 exactly.
• Voltage motor running under load dropped down to 115 exactly.
• Input-rush amp load (1/10th of a second) during start-up pegged at 22.5 amps.
• Running amp load was 15.5 AMPS.


Lift then plugged into 50-ft 12 gauge (12/3 cable) extension cord.

• Voltage at motor pre-running was 120 exactly.
• Voltage motor running under load dropped down to 114 exactly. (Would have thought less.)
• Input-rush amp load (1/10th of a second) during start-up pegged at 28.5 amps.
• Running amp load was still 15.5 AMPS. (Would have thought more.)

The amp load will depend on the weight you’re lifting. The heavier the vehicle, the more amps required. The power-unit is manufactured by Stone / SPX. It’s an ETL/UL approved unit and has been tested under all conditions so cord rating is fine. The lift will draw max amps at start up under load - my recommendation, a 30-amp circuit.

Jeff
BendPak

 

[tatra]

thanx jeff...........wil be putting in a dedicated circuit then..........now about that gas/diesel conversion for off grid usage, how's that comming?..........

 

[cw_racefan]

Jeff -

Two things then:

1) You should update the website (it says 15 amps)

2) You need to change the cord on the units. Being 14awg, it is only rated to 15 amps, and with a 15 amp plug, well, you physically can't plug it into a 30 amp outlet. Not sure how the cord can be "fine" for 30 amps?? Probably nit-picking here, but for a true 30amp circuit you need a nema 6-30 outlet, which has the blades horizontal.

I'll see how it does on my 20 amp, I have a full size Tahoe I'll be lifting (around 5k lbs).

Thanks for the response!
Craig

 

[cw_racefan]

...
One could start with that little book in the glove box,( under lifting points).. It has been many years since I have seen a booklet on lift points

Owners manuals tell you jacking points for the emergency jack, which aren't necessarily the same as lifting points. Ask someone with a 4th gen Firebird/Camaro or Pontiac Solstice who have fender damage because a mechanic didn't know the difference.

 

[volvo]

Owners manuals tell you jacking points for the emergency jack, which aren't necessarily the same as lifting points. Ask someone with a 4th gen Firebird/Camaro or Pontiac Solstice who have fender damage because a mechanic didn't know the difference.

If one dose not have an owners manual I would suggest getting one of these lift point manuals, available in quick book or CD forms ( $5-$10 ) Safety First...

http://www.autolift.org/store.htm

AUTOMOTIVE LIFT INSTITUTE OFFERS UPDATED VEHICLE LIFTING POINTS GUIDE for FRAME-ENGAGING LIFTS
VEHICLE LIFTING POINTS: 2009 EDITION
Cortland N.Y. – January 14, 2009 – The Automotive Lift Institute, Inc. (ALI) announces the availability of the 2009 edition of ALI’s “VEHICLE LIFTING POINTS for FRAME ENGAGING LIFTS”.
This updated guide is a quick-reference single-source manual for lifting point information as recommended by the vehicle manufacturers. The 60 page Lifting Point Guide (LP-G) for domestic and imported cars and light trucks uses over 200 undercarriage images to cover the most recent 19 model years.
For this new edition, the 2009 model year vehicles were added, some older images were revised, and additional cautionary notes were provided in an effort to clarify pick-up point locations for shop owners, technicians and other LP-Guide users. The Automotive Lift Institute (ALI) sponsors this Guide annually as an industry service, utilizing data furnished exclusively for ALI by Chek-Chart Products, MOTOR Information Systems. Many proactive companies and franchises now incorporate ALI’s LP-Guide and other safety materials as an integral component of their overall employee safety and training program.
Visit ALI’s website www.autolift.org to order this updated guide or for information on other safety materials and standards sponsored by the lift manufacturers who support ALI’s mission of promoting the safe design, construction, installation and use of automotive lift products.
- End -

 

[cw_racefan]

Hence my question, since the MaxJax is supposed to include one, but sounds like they don't have them yet. Didn't know if that info was available online.

 

[PowerDubs]

Houston we have a problem!!

My lift was picked up Tuesday evening from the trucking depot. After a busy week at work I have been anxiously looking forward to installing it tonight as I have to fix an axle on the car this weekend.

Upon unpacking the componets I've discovered numerous missing parts so far-

No wheels for the towers
No teflon tape
No safety bars

and also like everyone else the missing part to use the atv adaptor.
( (1) 3/8"x3/8" NPT Fitting and (1) Male Quick Disconnect)


I guess I'm stuck using jackstands this weekend again. *sigh*

Also had 8 wheels (in addition to the ones on the cart)? 4 black and 4 white.

My cart came with white wheels on it.. I think you got my tower wheels!!

 

[wachuko]

Houston we have a problem!!

My lift was picked up Tuesday evening from the trucking depot. After a busy week at work I have been anxiously looking forward to installing it tonight as I have to fix an axle on the car this weekend.

Upon unpacking the componets I've discovered numerous missing parts so far-

No wheels for the towers
No teflon tape
No safety bars

and also like everyone else the missing part to use the atv adaptor.
( (1) 3/8"x3/8" NPT Fitting and (1) Male Quick Disconnect)


I guess I'm stuck using jackstands this weekend again. *sigh*





My cart came with white wheels on it.. I think you got my tower wheels!!

Outside of the safety bars there is nothing stopping you from installing it and using it... teflon tape is like .50 at the local hardware store and the atv adaptor you can install later...

just saying

 

[PowerDubs]

Yea..the safety bars are the issue. Might as well wait till next weekend. I'll call Gabe on Monday if he doesn't see this and respond before then.

 

[cw_racefan]

I was missing the tape too, but have like 5 rolls anyway....sorry to hear you were missing the other stuff. Did it look like the box was damaged in shipping?

My cart has white wheels also. When I called Gabe he said the towers came with white, but they preferred the black for some reason.

 

[ajrweb]

I also have white wheels for the cart, I figured it was no big deal. As far as the telfon tape I have plenty already in the garage.

I emailed Gabe about the lift guides and he said they are on order and when they come in he will mail it out to me. So I guess just make sure you contact him.

I also ordered extra anchors from drillspot and they are $4.20 a piece and received them next day(I only paid for standard shipping). They were actually shipped from Grainger

 

[Art D]

I am doing inventory like everyone else prior to assembly and I am missing the male disconnect and the 3/8 NPT and no lift point book. Teflon tape is missing too but no big deal I have lots of it. However, the interesting issue is that the cart has the mounting plate welded upside down......so I will call Gabe on Monday for another cart.... Interesting that that made it past quality control.... No lifting this weekend...

 

[///Mflossin]

what is up with all of the missing parts? Cart plate welded upside down? This is very discouraging....