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Hollow Punch Set

Hollow punch sets are one of those deals that you don’t need all that often, but when you do – they are invaluable. A couple of years back, I had a leather project I was working on and I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight. It was worthless. The steel was so damned cheap that you couldn’t get the punches to hold an edge at all.

This week I’ve been working on the old Silver Streak trailer and needed to make a bunch of rubber gaskets for all of the tail and running lights. Rather than deal with the HF set again, I decided to try my luck with yet another cheap set of hollow hole punches. I bought this set from Amazon for just under $40.

Again, I was dismayed to find them completely dull when they arrived. But, I took some fine sand paper to them and honed the edge as best I could and… they took the edge great and have stayed sharp all week. I’m super happy in that I didn’t have to shell out $200 for a good set that I only use a couple times of year and what I have isn’t half bad at all.

Anyway, not a paid advertisement at all… just an experience. Take it for what’s it worth.

You can get your own set from Amazon here.

See Comments on the forum.

rlitman

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Interesting. I haven't seen 2-piece punches like that. They remind me of clicker dies.

The biggest trouble I have with using these is selecting the best backer. Something that gives sufficient support, but also allows the punch to enter and finish the cut. I've tried scrap cutting boards (they're too hard) and scraps of plywood (the grain gives me issues). I think that an end grain board would be best, but haven't tried it yet.

What do you use?
 
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Ryan

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Interesting. I haven't seen 2-piece punches like that. They remind me of clicker dies.

The biggest trouble I have with using these is selecting the best backer. Something that gives sufficient support, but also allows the punch to enter and finish the cut. I've tried scrap cutting boards (they're too hard) and scraps of plywood (the grain gives me issues). I think that an end grain board would be best, but haven't tried it yet.

What do you use?

I actually use a piece of scrap from an end grain cutting board that I made a couple of years ago. It works PERFECT. Once you have the punches sharp, you just tap the thing with a rubber mallet and most gasket material (the stuff I mostly cut anyhow) sheers clean as can be.
 
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Ryan

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It's for the jolly green giant's belt buckle.

The smallest is perfect for #10 machine screws... which is was I needed... and there's another that fits the backside of a 1526/7 light socket as well...
 

2oolhound

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I have a lot of hole punches but when I need a size I don't have I make one out of a piece of pipe or tubing. I have a lathe I can use but I've also just ground the edge on a bench grinder and finished on a belt grinder with a fine grit belt.

One of the common uses I've had was to cut long cyndrical holes in foam to pack things like small camera lenses etc for shipping. I recently sold an archery set on ebay and packed the 3 arrows by finding a 3" cardboard tube and cutting some round 3" slugs of foam with one. You just have to twist the punches through by hand. I then cut a 1/2" hole in the center and inserted the arrows. This kept the fletching suspended inside the cardboard tube. I then add the new hole punch to the punch drawer.

I also like using an end grain on a board for the backing when cutting gasket paper etc.

I've collected quite a few over the years but you often don't have that exact size you're looking for.

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I've found it's quite easy to grind an edge on a piece of tubing or scrap pipe that's good enough to get the job done.

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gahrajmahal

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When using smaller ones I find that chucking it up in the cordless drill and rotating it makes a clean cut easier than hammering it through your material. It’s also a good way to sharpen up the die cutter. Get some 220 or 360 wet or dry sandpaper and some cutting oil. Start rotating with the drill and you get an even sharp edge all around.
 

rlitman

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When using smaller ones I find that chucking it up in the cordless drill and rotating it makes a clean cut easier than hammering it through your material. It’s also a good way to sharpen up the die cutter. Get some 220 or 360 wet or dry sandpaper and some cutting oil. Start rotating with the drill and you get an even sharp edge all around.

I use the drill press. But just as a press. I don't bother to turn it on.
I recently made a replacement leather sweatband for a hat, and since it was my summer hat, I perforated it. I bought a 6 hole punch on eBay, and punched the hundreds of holes using the drill press in maybe half an hour.
 

cjarvis

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I use a piece of plastic toilet partition under mine. A plastic cutting board would work just as well.
 

4xdog

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Laboratory cork borers are another option for all kinds of projects putting holes in soft materials. For things like gaskets, they're perfect.

I'll often use scrap MDF or an old plastic cutting board as a backer, but end grain wood is probably the best.

H-9665.png
 

bpjr

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I use Osborne arch punches for grommets in canvas work and their rotary punch for screw holes in gaskets. Expensive but almost mandatory for production work (I used to have a marine canvas shop but still use them for DIY). They will easily cut though 8 layers of 9oz cloth. I use wood as a backer.

I tried an HF punch (in a set) for a size I didn't already have and they were useless on 1/8" thick felt for 44 cal black powder wads. I think the HF would be ok for a one time project on a couple of engine gaskets...maybe.
 

LXCam

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That's a nice looking set. I have a cheap set I bought years ago and they do what I ask of them. I've found using short 4-6" a piece of 4X and striking on the end grain is the way to go for backing.
 

bob15

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Have had good longevity and useage with the Mayhew hollow punch set. Nice because you can add/use 2 punches at a time. Also, larger individual punch are available if needed.

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Ryan

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Have had good longevity and useage with the Mayhew hollow punch set. Nice because you can add/use 2 punches at a time. Also, larger individual punch are available if needed.

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****... that's nice.
 

isb cornbinder

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anytime.jpg


Hollow punch sets are one of those deals that you don't need all that often, but when you do - they are invaluable. A couple of years back, I had a leather project I was...
To read the rest of this blog entry from The Garage Journal, click here.

About 30 years ago, I bought an English MAUN wad punch #1001-05 hollow punch kit. For larger circle cuts I have an ECLIPSE razor sharp cutter. While I do not use these items too often, when I need them, they make the job easier and more accurate.
I like tools, so I may look into buying the punch sets shown.
 

metaldad

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LA1

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I bought 2 different sets from the neighborhood Tandy leather company store back in the late 70's. one set is 3 fixed size. the other set has a driver and detachable different size cutters maybe up to 9mm. I from time to time make my own gaskets and these are indispensable in that process.
 

Dingleburry

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Interesting. I haven't seen 2-piece punches like that. They remind me of clicker dies.

The biggest trouble I have with using these is selecting the best backer. Something that gives sufficient support, but also allows the punch to enter and finish the cut. I've tried scrap cutting boards (they're too hard) and scraps of plywood (the grain gives me issues). I think that an end grain board would be best, but haven't tried it yet.

What do you use?
Always use the end of a piece of wood. Parallel with the grain.
Thats how i was taught abyways.
 

Woz

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So it can punch concentric circles?

As Bob15 stated in his reply the punches screw together and make perfect washer shapes in any gasket material. The Mayhew set is expensive but you get your money's worth. These punches are sharp right out out the box and have worked very well for me.
 

6PTsocket

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I have a similar set from Grizzly. Probably no better than the HF set.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

toolfanatic

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I've owned this Boehm set for many years now and used in conjunction with my trusty "Thor" mallet it has proven its worth, time and time again. From making washers to working with leather, plastics, canvas etc it never fails to please. I remember it being expensive to purchase at the time, but the price is long forgotten now; many the plumbing jobs etc I've been able to solve thanks to it!
 

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bob15

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I've owned this Boehm set for many years now and used in conjunction with my trusty "Thor" mallet it has proven its worth, time and time again. From making washers to working with leather, plastics, canvas etc it never fails to please. I remember it being expensive to purchase at the time, but the price is long forgotten now; many the plumbing jobs etc I've been able to solve thanks to it!

That is the same as my Mayhew set. Made in France.
 

ultgar

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Looks very similar to the Facom sets.....you can buy individual sizes (from 3-50mm) if you need them.

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