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The General Drill Bit Set

Posted by 141drew Posted onOct 4, 2010 at 3:10 PM and filed under Reviews & Features
Updated onUpdated on May 28, 2021 at 11:37 AM


My current drill bit set was bought at Sears about 5 years ago. It’s had it… For the post part, I’ve used this set in the shop on various steel and, of course, on regular “house projects” on soft stuff like wood. I’ve lost some bits, burned some, broken some, etc… It’s time for a new set and I was curious what you guys are using for your general drill bit set. I’d like to find something substantial in size (number of bits) and will last me for another five years.

Thoughts? Suggestions?


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G

Griff93

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For the money the Made in USA sets from Enco seem to be the best deal. They have a nice set that has 1-60 AWG, A-Z, and 1/16-1/2 by 64ths for a bit over $100. They come in a nice metal drill index. I've used this set for several years and I'm very happy with it. I have managed to break one bit but it was my fault not the bits. It's really nice to have those sizes that fall in between fractional drills all in one set. No affiliation, just a happy customer.
 
D

Davefr

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Ryan said:
My current drill bit set was bought at Sears about 5 years ago. It's had it... For the post part, I've used this set in the shop on various steel and, of course, on regular ...
To read the rest of this blog entry from The Garage Journal, click here.
Click to expand...

Every bit in that set is worn out? That's unusual IMHO. When a bit in my set get's worn out I quickly replace that individual drill bit with something that's good quality. (I usually save the dull ones for future resharpening but usually don't get around to it).
 
K

Kenwc

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Norseman drill bits are the best I've ever used and will probably never try another....it would feel like cheating....lol
 
S

Stephenw

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I recommend the 115 piece USA brand set from Enco. It's on sale right now for $129.95.

Enco Set
 

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C

combatic

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Regardless of which drill set you invest in, I second Major Ramifications suggestion. Get a Drill Doctor. It has all ready paid for itself. Bits need to stay sharp just like knives in order to be affective. Plus the drill doc gives you something to do on those rainy days in between projects =)
 
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Bolster

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I'll third the DD recommendation. Which implies (unless you have good reason to the contrary) don't spend extra money on coated bits.

I knew Norseman bits would be recommended...I've never found them for reasonable prices...anybody has a reasonable source?

One other tip: If you have a partial bit set, you can fill it out for cheap at amazon, with USA bits, using the bottom-feeder trick (the one listed in the first post of the HOT DEALS thread). I think the mfg's name is "Precision."

Here, try this URL. Prices start at 20¢

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...rh=n:228013,k:precision+drill+bits&sort=price
 
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eighthd

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I buy mine from Mac Tools. They will replace broken and dull bits. And the drill doctor will help also.
 
D

designo

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What ever you do, don't buy the 115 set from Horrible Freight for $59.00. poor Quality.
P1000419.JPG
 
V

Vinko

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I only need a few sizes at work, but I have filed out a Huot dispenser up to 1/2 with American-made bits from MSC during their 35-40% off sales. That and combined with the flyer deal, it seemed pretty cheap -- I didn't spend too much time pricing them out, but I've picked up a dozen of a lot of sizes I knew I'd need at some point.

41doqhof3blsl500aa300.jpg


I've been meaning to check out the Norseman bits for myself or the German ones from Ruko [sp?].
 
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Brad54

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Stop using your metal bits on wood!
The tip angle is different for wood versus metal, and using them on wood will dull them.

I've got a Drill Doctor, a decent set of American-made bits in a vintage Craftsman drill bit index on a tray attached to my drill press.
I've got a newer drill index that gets moved to the project site (whatever car I'm working on), another index with wood bits, and then a full set of lettered/numbered bits from Vermont American that I use for precision stuff like threading holes, etc.

-Brad
 
S

stricht8

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Tell me about the Drill Doctor. There seem to be different models that vary widely in price. Which is the one to get?
 
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Falcon67

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From what my machinist connections tell me, the Drill Doctor is a waste of money these days. They work for a short period of time, then seem to fade. I was all set to by one until I researched them. I'll keep my $$ for now.

Buy USA if you can afford it. I have a zircon coated 1/64-1/2 set from Sears that's at least 10 years old. I also keep a couple of sets of 1/64-1/2 HF coated bits around. They are decent for general work. Get them on sale for $40 and if you break one, so what. I would bet lunch that the HF bits and the Sears bits come from the same pile now in spite of Sears nicking you for an extra $40 or so.

For around the house, I use a box of Irwin stuff I got at Lowes. Bought two different "quick connect" sets on sale and combined. That gave me a short set of twist drills and a short set of spade drills plus some screwdriver and other types - all in a nice plastic organizer. However, the Irwin quick connect part is junk.
 
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Bolster

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Brad54 said:
Stop using your metal bits on wood!... and using them on wood will dull them.
Click to expand...

Aroo? Seriously? That's news to me. I don't understand how HSS could drill iron and steel just fine but dull in wood? Please explain the causality :headscrat

Falcon67 said:
From what my machinist connections tell me, the Drill Doctor is a waste of money these days. They work for a short period of time, then seem to fade.
Click to expand...

It's true the diamond wheel dulls over time, but new wheels are sold for not much money. I've had mine for several years, and no fading for me yet... you don't hear much criticism of the DD here on GJ, except from those who have even nicer, fancier, more expensive machines...and they do exist...and they ARE nice...
 
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Rolleiflex

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Bolster said:
Aroo? Seriously? That's news to me. I don't understand how HSS could drill iron and steel just fine but dull in wood? Please explain the causality :headscrat
Click to expand...


It's not as much about the drill bit dulling as it is about the chip removal rate and how easily it drills, which ultimately could lead to a shorter life for the drill bit, i.e. breakage.

There are different point angles for different materials and even different metals. A drill sharpened for aluminum will not work as well in heat treated steel.

While this isn't quite as important for around the house and garage, as it is for a machinist, proper use will prolong the life of your drill bits. Not to mention you're less likely to have to figure out how to remove a busted drill bit.
 
S

some zilch

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my 115 HF bit set is going strong after several years industrial use. my drill press spins pretty slow, and i use some type of cutting oil. they keep going, and going and going
 
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737mechanic

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Rolleiflex said:
It's not as much about the drill bit dulling as it is about the chip removal rate and how easily it drills, which ultimately could lead to a shorter life for the drill bit, i.e. breakage.

There are different point angles for different materials and even different metals. A drill sharpened for aluminum will not work as well in heat treated steel.

While this isn't quite as important for around the house and garage, as it is for a machinist, proper use will prolong the life of your drill bits. Not to mention you're less likely to have to figure out how to remove a busted drill bit.
Click to expand...

Actually bits that drill steel are fine for aluminum and they are fine for wood too and even plastic. The trick is turning the drill bit at the right speed for the material being drilled. Most people have no clue to the sfpm "Surface feet per minute" that different materials require and they spin the bit at the full speed the drill will spin and they dull the bit. I can take a jobber HSS drill bit and make it last all day drilling steel by simply turning it at the right speed and using cutting oil if needed.

The two most common angles drill bits are ground at are 118 and 135 degrees. 118 degree bits need a center punch dimple or center drill hole to prevent walking but the 135 degree will start its own center hole and will not walk.

I have a 115 piece drill index I have had about 20 years and most of the original drill bits are still perfectly good.

I recommend a USA drill index simply because the HSS is a better quality and the grinding is usally better.
 
N

NAYLOR

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What 737 said. Speed and feed rate are the most important. You should also peck drill to extend tool life.

Coated tools are necessary when drilling harder materials and/or where you can't get good chips. Remember, a bit gets excessively hot if you aren't removing chips, thus shortening the life. You can go out a ruin a good set of USA bits if you aren't careful.
 
B

Bolster

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737mechanic said:
Actually bits that drill steel are fine for aluminum and they are fine for wood too and even plastic. The trick is turning the drill bit at the right speed for the material being drilled.
Click to expand...

Yes, exactly. That's what I've always been taught. I don't think anybody is ruining their HSS bits by using them in wood, unless they're using them in wood "badly," ie, overheating, etc.
 
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Rolleiflex

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737mechanic said:
Actually bits that drill steel are fine for aluminum and they are fine for wood too and even plastic. The trick is turning the drill bit at the right speed for the material being drilled. Most people have no clue to the sfpm "Surface feet per minute" that different materials require and they spin the bit at the full speed the drill will spin and they dull the bit. I can take a jobber HSS drill bit and make it last all day drilling steel by simply turning it at the right speed and using cutting oil if needed.

The two most common angles drill bits are ground at are 118 and 135 degrees. 118 degree bits need a center punch dimple or center drill hole to prevent walking but the 135 degree will start its own center hole and will not walk.

I have a 115 piece drill index I have had about 20 years and most of the original drill bits are still perfectly good.

I recommend a USA drill index simply because the HSS is a better quality and the grinding is usally better.
Click to expand...

I didn't say they wouldn't work. I just said that even though most people don't know about them there actually are several different drill points. 118 and 135 are just the most common.

I totally agree using the correct feed, speed, pecking and cutting fluid will give the best results and tool life.
 
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Elroy

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737mechanic said:
The two most common angles drill bits are ground at are 118 and 135 degrees. 118 degree bits need a center punch dimple or center drill hole to prevent walking but the 135 degree will start its own center hole and will not walk.
Click to expand...

Elroy would venture to say that the web thickness and chisel length have more to do with walking around on the start that does the lip angle.

Try thinning the web.:headscrat
 
H

heychris

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I recently purchased a 29 piece cobalt drill bit set at Harbor Freight. Using them I've noticed every single bit is laser etched with Irwin. The irwin set is much more expensive than harbor Freight.
 
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evintho

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+ 11657 on the Drill Doctor. I'd recommend the DD500x. The DD350x will only sharpen 118* points and won't sharpen 135*. The DD500x will sharpen both. The DD350x & DD500x will both accept up to 1/2" bits. The DD750x will accept up to 3/4" bits, but really, how often do you use 3/4" bits? For my money the DD500x is the way too go.

Oh yeah, when drilling, use a good cutting oil such as RapidTap. It definitely prolongs the life of the bit!
 
J

JASTECH

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I keep a bottle of cutting oil in the fridg too, when drillinng wood the cold oil is thicker and will not be absorbed by the wood as fast!

Thanks, JASTECH
 
A

airdale

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JASTECH said:
I keep a bottle of cutting oil in the fridg too, when drillinng wood the cold oil is thicker and will not be absorbed by the wood as fast!

Thanks, JASTECH
Click to expand...

Seems like I've heard somewhere about using wax, like you would on wood screws in hardwood. Say that 5 times fast.
 
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Stephenw

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airdale said:
Seems like I've heard somewhere about using wax, like you would on wood screws in hardwood. Say that 5 times fast.
Click to expand...

Seems to me any lubrication on wood would cause havoc with any subsequent finish that might be applied.

A better choice of drill bit is in order...

Brad Point
Spade Point
Forstner
Auger

to name a few.
 
W

wafrederick

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The cobalt drill bits tend to dull quickly.I have a couple set of multi use drill bits and are not cheap.These bits can drill through masonary,metal,wood,plastic and tile.One set is $50.00 and beats buying differant drill bits for each application.
 
J

JASTECH

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My Bad! I was trying my hand at being funny, lol

I just ordered a 115 pc set of Enco and have 2 sets of Norseman 29pc Jobber but should of got 1 set with 3 flats for my hand drills corded, cordless and air. I have everyday sets like Hansen Cobalt, Milwaukee, DeWalt titanium and Black Oxide ect.

Thanks, JASTECH
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Elroy said:
Elroy would venture to say that the web thickness and chisel length have more to do with walking around on the start that does the lip angle.
Click to expand...

I agree, but the 135 degree drills are all manufactured as "split point" which is self centering, and the 118 degree drills are not. I arrived at this conclusion after spending alot of time going thru catalogs. There may be exceptions, but they are not common.

Charles
 
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