PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Blatant post count whoring. 
February 2, 1996. I was living in Spokane; had to change a starter on my F150 truck in the gravel driveway.Today is not the day to replace a starter.
Y’all got me beat by 50 degreesFebruary 2, 1996. I was living in Spokane; had to change a starter on my F150 truck in the gravel driveway.
Second coldest day on record- -24F.
30+ inches of snow at the end of January was still on the ground.
That was one misrerable job.
Probbaly not as soggy as you're going to get, though.![]()
It’s the “Fun part” of owning old trucksSome days, don't you just wish it was somebody else's problem to deal with? I hate it when equipment is suddenly broken just when I'm finally ready to use it -- always chasing the next fix...
So, I’m not that familiar with them.I've got an extra 460 PMGR starter but a long way from where your at![]()
So, I’m not that familiar with them.
Other than they are smaller, and hit a little harder. And slightly different wiring.
The old beast has always been a hard start, and I’ve replaced a few starters already .
So I’m liking the idea of the PMGR.
Any brands to go with? Any to stay away from?
Any input would be appreciated
Asking without knowledge...So, I’m not that familiar with them.
Other than they are smaller, and hit a little harder. And slightly different wiring.
The old beast has always been a hard start, and I’ve replaced a few starters already .
So I’m liking the idea of the PMGR.
Any brands to go with? Any to stay away from?
Any input would be appreciated
Both batteries are all cables are in good shape.If you've replaced a few starters already, maybe your problem is something else.
Does it start hard only when warm? If so, a heat shield on the starter may fix it.
Other issues - high compression (kind of doubt that's your problem), inadequate battery size/CCA, or too much ignition timing will all cause hard starting.
What about your battery cables? The powerboat community figured this stuff out a long time ago, and I try to follow their lead. I use heavy gauge tinned copper wire with Ancor tinned copper lugs crimped on each end (use a bit of Novalox on the wire, too). At the battery, I use military terminals.
No pump in the tank. Fuel pump was replaced a couple years ago.Asking without knowledge...
Does this truck have a tank mounted fuel pump? When starting hard is part of the problem you are waiting for the mechanical fuel pump to pressurize the fuel lines from the tank? I'm asking based on a recent Car Wizard episode where he added a fuel pump to the tank of a Beetle for this reason.
It’s got a 460, manual.Just found your thread. Bummed the old pics dont come up. Truck still have the 400? Looks like you're a little north of my neck of the woods in Granite Falls. Currently working on an 80 F350 DRW, 400, C6. Guy is Sedro did the machine work - Huson Auto/Shark Racing Engines. I get going on it, then life gets in the way like it tends to do.
Both batteries are all cables are in good shape.
I upgraded them awhile back when I added the second battery.
It didn’t seem to help much with the hard cranking starts. Heat doesn’t seem to affect it.
Timing is a little hard, as the previous owner lost the timing indicator. It’s set by ear![]()
Thanks.Hard start is fuel, timing or power. All are easy.
I know you know all of these things, but this is the internet so I’m going to chime in.
As far as power, proper grounding is a must. You shouldn’t have washers, etc between the lug on your ground wire and its attachment. This is a very common issue I’ve seen. For whatever reason, guys put a washer on the ground stud, then the lug, another washer, lock washer then nut. Also, lug holes are sometimes significantly bigger than the stud they attach to. Ideally, lug and stud size are the same, clean and attached tightly. All of these are easy to overlook. Please don’t ask how I learned these lessons!!
Timing is also huge and sensitive. Get that sorted properly, even a couple degrees makes a huge difference. Points? Coil? Plug wires? Distributor? When in doubt, OHM it out.
Fuel. FFS, fuel. Inline, clear filters tell a great story. You can see rust, moisture, contaminants with ease. Always helps to know that the fuel you’re getting is good.
I hadn’t realized my early pics are gone.Just found your thread. Bummed the old pics dont come up. Truck still have the 400? Looks like you're a little north of my neck of the woods in Granite Falls. Currently working on an 80 F350 DRW, 400, C6. Guy is Sedro did the machine work - Huson Auto/Shark Racing Engines. I get going on it, then life gets in the way like it tends to do.
Thanks,Those teeth are that bad. Take the inspection cover off and dress each tooth with a triangular file. Bar the flywheel over with a long screw driver until you have hit each tooth. I’ve done this in my truck. Takes about 30 min on your back.
A very tired 460Sounds like a 460...
Look who’s getting a new truck!!I used the 4' slide lock from Mac's in my trucks. My '12 I was able to mount them on the lip below the bed cap. On my '17 I had to mate them to the side of the bed cap. Pick up the '23 tomorrow. Who knows where they will fit. Makes it super easy to keep propane or 5 gallon buckets upright, tie down a load without digging at the bottom of the bed. But you know all that.
You will need to upgrade your battery cables. See instructions for Powermaster 9605.Any input would be appreciated
My hard starting did not go away until the Powermaster was installed. It started fine, first start of the day. Once warmed up, it could be a slow crank. I do not believe that any "extra" heat was the issue, just the heat once it got to operating temperature. The starter wouldn't really cool off, except after a few hours.Both batteries are all cables are in good shape.
I upgraded them awhile back when I added the second battery.
It didn’t seem to help much with the hard cranking starts. Heat doesn’t seem to affect it.
Timing is a little hard, as the previous owner lost the timing indicator. It’s set by ear![]()
Edelbrock has a bunch of nice go fast parts...A very tired 460