Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!

[ALTEREGO]

Hello Everyone,

I found this old grinder that needs a lot of work (new bearings and a good cleaning at the very least), I think is a Doerr (perhaps sold by Dayton?). The information on the tag is hardly distinguishable but I think the Model # is LR-15562.

Do you guys agree it is a USA Grinder, most likely a Doerr? Is it worth saving? Does any of the other barely visible information on the tag rings a bell to you guys? I wonder what the HP is on this one. Let me know your thoughts, thank you!

 

[ALTEREGO]

After some more research, I'm pretty sure is a Dayton. Do you guys think is also a 1HP? And more importantly, is it a USA Made Doerr? Is it worth rebuilding?

Please let me know, thank you!

 

[ALLFAST]

Great score. 1 horse is super desirable. I have a 1/3 Hp that I restored for a friend and it’s a beast
New bearings and cord, plus paint and eye shields.
Doerr and Dayton are related IIRC, and the 1 Hp are very uncommon; you’d do well to go through it, give it some TLC and put it back in service!

 

[ALTEREGO]

Great score. 1 horse is super desirable. I have a 1/3 Hp that I restored for a friend and it’s a beast
New bearings and cord, plus paint and eye shields.
Doerr and Dayton are related IIRC, and the 1 Hp are very uncommon; you’d do well to go through it, give it some TLC and put it back in service!

Was yours made by Doerr in the USA? Do you have any pictures? Thank you!

 

[ALLFAST]

I am 98% positive it’s a USA made Doerr from the early 1960s. The label badge was incredibly worn out…only could make out a few specs.

It was a faded cherry red. No pics currently. You’re best bet is to visit Vintage Machinery.org and look at 1hp Doerr( and whatever else sparks your suspicions) bench grinders- you’ll hit paydirt most likely.

Again. 1 HP vintage bench grinders are extremely desirable and often overpriced!

 

[ALTEREGO]

I am 98% positive it’s a USA made Doerr from the early 1960s. The label badge was incredibly worn out…only could make out a few specs.

It was a faded cherry red. No pics currently. You’re best bet is to visit Vintage Machinery.org and look at 1hp Doerr( and whatever else sparks your suspicions) bench grinders- you’ll hit paydirt most likely.

Again. 1 HP vintage bench grinders are extremely desirable and often overpriced!

If you ever take some pictures please share, you know how much we like pictures here at the GJ!
I did look at the web page you suggested during my search but if I remember correctly the model number showed up mostly Milwaukee branded grinders which from what I have read were also made by Doerr.

 

[ALLFAST]

Yes, Milwaukee and I believe some Deltas as well. They are an excellent machine !

 

[ALTEREGO]

Yes, Milwaukee and I believe some Deltas as well. They are an excellent machine !

Thank you @ALLFAST! Actually, those were the seller's pictures, I just went to buy it last night haven't even plug it in yet, it is still in the car lol. Previous owner told me that he hasn't used it for a while, it is missing the power cord plug and he said that it worked but it was making noise so he suspected new bearings were needed but it could still be used as is. To my surprise the paint is not as bad as I thought, not as bad as the info tag is anyways. Hopefully I can get it to work well, planning on using it as a buffer but it looks so powerful that I might use it for wire wheeling and use my other one (old Baldor) as the buffer/polisher.

Should I start a new "restoration" post or should I post the process here on this thread?

 

[1982fxr]

If you do bearings I'd say start a new thread so it's easy to find for future generations.

 

[ALTEREGO]

If you do bearings I'd say start a new thread so it's easy to find for future generations.

Good idea, are there any bearings that you recommend? Any to avoid? I did a quick search, and it seems like bearing technology is evolving just as fast as anything else... hard to keep up.

Also, what heavy duty power cord do you guys like/recommend?

 

[Outlawmws]

Also, what heavy duty power cord do you guys like/recommend?

Assuming its 120V, for something this big I get raw cable and a hospital grade 20A plug.

For smaller I used to get old Computer server cords (heavy cords) and cut the computer end off, but those are getting hard to find these days.

 

[ALTEREGO]

Assuming its 120V, for something this big I get raw cable and a hospital grade 20A plug.

For smaller I used to get old Computer server cords (heavy cords) and cut the computer end off, but those are getting hard to find these days.

@Outlawmws wow! I haven't even heard of those before! What kind of raw cable should I get? I have 0 gauge (for welding), is that overkill?

Any suggestions on bearings? What would be the best I could use for this? Thank you @Outlawmws and everyone!

 

[Outlawmws]

What kind of raw cable should I get?

Partly dependent on the distance you wan't the cord to go and the amperage. So select an appropriate gauge wire . You want a flexible cord and not the **** stiff plastic most cords are these days. welding grades of outer sheath are good as its more likely to survive if you do a lot of welding; the UV from that seems to kill cords pretty fast.

 

[Woods_Wanderer]

If you got to a place like Elliot Electric Supply you can buy power cord by the foot in any gauge or type you need for a fraction of the price you'd pay for equivilent cord someplace like home depot. The people behind the counter can also usually help figure out what kind you need. I'm not sure if they have welding cable, but SEOOW or similar would be closer to the original cord anyway.

 

[ALTEREGO]

Partly dependent on the distance you wan't the cord to go and the amperage. So select an appropriate gauge wire . You want a flexible cord and not the **** stiff plastic most cords are these days. welding grades of outer sheath are good as its more likely to survive if you do a lot of welding; the UV from that seems to kill cords pretty fast.

Sounds good, I'll try to post a picture of the cable I have so you guys can tell me what you think. i appreciate the help!

 

[ALTEREGO]

If you got to a place like Elliot Electric Supply you can buy power cord by the foot in any gauge or type you need for a fraction of the price you'd pay for equivilent cord someplace like home depot. The people behind the counter can also usually help figure out what kind you need. I'm not sure if they have welding cable, but SEOOW or similar would be closer to the original cord anyway.

I'll look them up, I'm sure if we don't have Elliot's in my area we have something similar. I already have some 0 gauge cable so I wouldn't have to spend any more money but I will look up a store like that in my area, probably they can help me find the best plug as well.

Thank you @Woods_Wanderer!

 

[Tom99]

I picked up this Dayton 6" grinder a few weeks ago at an estate sale. I think it was made for Grainger by Doerr, but I could be wrong. Regardless, it's complete, it runs smooth, and it's not all beat up.

 

[ALTEREGO]

I picked up this Dayton 6" grinder a few weeks ago at an estate sale. I think it was made for Grainger by Doerr, but I could be wrong. Regardless, it's complete, it runs smooth, and it's not all beat up.

@Tom99 that is one good looking grinder right there, it looks hardly used!
How did you figure is a Doerr? Nice find!

@Woods_Wanderer I went to my local Elliot E. S. today and sadly the guy there was no help at all. He told me he couldn't make any recommendations due to liability concerns, that I needed to speak to an electrician and then tell him what type of material I needed.
Since you mentioned that it would be cheaper than the big box store I wanted to find out about some other wire that I will need for the garage in the near future (6/2 & 10/2) and those two were actually a little more expensive there :s
The grinder currently has 14/3 600V cable (as far as I can tell) and it does really need to be replaced, if I try to bend it, it just cracks :S

If anyone has some pictures along with part numbers of an upgraded power cord for a similar grinder I would appreciate it.

I was brave (more like stupid) enough to try to turn the grinder on for a few seconds and it did run good but the bearings definitely need replacing.

Any recommendations on what would be a good upgrade to the worn out bearings this machine has?

Also, is it likely that the wheel guards are made of aluminum? They feel really lite. Thanks everyone for your help!

 

[Provincial]

On the cord, look up SJO or SJOOW cord. O is for oil resistance, W is for water resistance. These are rubber cover cords.

14 gauge is rated for 15 amps. If your shop is wired for 15 amp breakers, you almost certainly have 14 gauge wire to the receptacles. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amps, and is overkill unless you are going to have a 50-foot long cord, especially if you have 20 amp circuits. The length of your pigtail depends on how far from the receptacle you want to put the grinder.

Take the grinder apart enough to inspect one of the shaft bearings. Look for numbers on the old bearing. It will be hard to "upgrade" these bearings without machining the end bells, and even that depends on how much extra material is left in the bearing pocket area. Most likely you are stuck with the same bearing number, but ask your bearing supplier if there is a higher quality, sealed-both-sides option.

 

[ALTEREGO]

On the cord, look up SJO or SJOOW cord. O is for oil resistance, W is for water resistance. These are rubber cover cords.

14 gauge is rated for 15 amps. If your shop is wired for 15 amp breakers, you almost certainly have 14 gauge wire to the receptacles. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amps, and is overkill unless you are going to have a 50-foot long cord, especially if you have 20 amp circuits. The length of your pigtail depends on how far from the receptacle you want to put the grinder.

Take the grinder apart enough to inspect one of the shaft bearings. Look for numbers on the old bearing. It will be hard to "upgrade" these bearings without machining the end bells, and even that depends on how much extra material is left in the bearing pocket area. Most likely you are stuck with the same bearing number, but ask your bearing supplier if there is a higher quality, sealed-both-sides option.

Hi @Provincial,
I just came back from the closest big box store with a 7' chunk of 12/3 600V SOOW. I went to a local electric supply store and they did not have the wire in stock and the price was slightly higher so I pulled the trigger. I agree that it might be overkill but it was just slightly more expensive than the 14/3 so I upgraded. I do have 12 gauge in the garage and I'm planning on adding a couple dedicated outlets with 10 gauge 30 amp breakers for the grinders and any other similar type of equipment.

I want to add a strain relief spring where the cable comes out of the grinder and I'm thinking a medical grade plug. I discovered a $100+ plug, explosion resistant plugs, water resistant plugs, etc. so I don't know what to choose, if you have any recommendations I will appreciate it!

As far as the bearings, does it have to be a bigger size in order to be a significant upgrade? Can the efficiency of the same size bearing be considerably increased by using a more modern/better quality bearing, etc?
I'm afraid I don't have a bearing supplier, was planning on buying it online so I guess I will rely on the collective GJ fellow members expertise to guide me. Just like with the plug, I discovered there are very expensive bearings out there. Buying one of those state-of-the-art bearings would probably not just be overkill but a waste so I'll rather find the "best bang for your buck" upgrade kind of deal.

 

[Provincial]

On the bearings, get the number off the old ones. I don't know where you live, but usually there is a brick & mortar industrial supply or hardware supply that carries bearings somewhere even on the fringes of civilization. Places like Motion Industries, Granger, or Fastenal. It is pretty hard to go wrong with any good name ball bearing, like NTN, SKF, Fafnir, etc.. Just get the sealed both sides version. That grinder was designed to last 10-20 years in a daily production environment, so the original grade of bearings should last a lifetime in a home shop. Just get sealed to keep the grit out.

Online, McMaster Carr is a reliable source for all sorts of things. They have a good online catalog, have fair, if not cheap prices, and very fast shipping.

 

[jptbay]

Came into a Millers Falls 1/3 Hp 220V grinder. This is most certainly made by K. C.
Spent hours looking at pictures and this one seems to be a little different than any I could find. Model 806B Serial number 160600. Spins up great.

Wheel guards and end covers are heavy stamped steel, not cast and clamp on, no set screws. End covers don't bolt on from the side, but have 3 bolts around the circumference.

Left side cover is missing. I'd love to find one.

 

[Sackotaters]

Great score. 1 horse is super desirable. I have a 1/3 Hp that I restored for a friend and it’s a beast
New bearings and cord, plus paint and eye shields.
Doerr and Dayton are related IIRC, and the 1 Hp are very uncommon; you’d do well to go through it, give it some TLC and put it back in service!

 

[Outlawmws]

I like that MF grinder!

 

[wrenchguy]

I'm with OL i'm loving it.

 

[ranger08]

Came into a Millers Falls 1/3 Hp 220V grinder. This is most certainly made by K. C.
Spent hours looking at pictures and this one seems to be a little different than any I could find. Model 806B Serial number 160600. Spins up great.

Wheel guards and end covers are heavy stamped steel, not cast and clamp on, no set screws. End covers don't bolt on from the side, but have 3 bolts around the circumference.

Left side cover is missing. I'd love to find one.

Mf made very good quality tools indeed

 

[Marvin Berry]

This just popped up for sale near me, what is it? The ad says it "runs on 480"?

They're asking $800, seems like a ridiculous price.

 

[Outlawmws]

It is a ridiculous price - 480V 3PH isn't common, and the types of commercial places that would need it even less common.

Most would scrap the actual grinder and re purpose the stand.

 

[lafester]

I picked up Stanley/KC grinder #4 today. Complete except for the eye shields, modified tool rests and of course painted.
I am mainly interested in the nice badge on this one since the last two I got were trashed.
This is another cap start version but currently you have to flip it off and back on to get it up to speed... after that it runs smooth.

Finally got this one put back together. Delta pedestal, lamps wired to grinder switch and grinder wired to starter. Took a pic next to the Delta to compare. You can configure the tool rests and eye shields a lot better on the Stanley.

 

[lafester]

Here is a 1/2 hp Craftsman block grinder stator vs 1/2 hp Stanley stator.

 

[ALLFAST]

That’s an interesting contrast LAF. Thank you for the post

 

[bmwrd0]

That Stanley is a dead ringer for my Walker Turner 1/2hp.

 

[lafester]

Yeah the list of KC grinders is long. Stanley, Walker Turner, Atlas, Miller falls, Thor, blue point, skill, Milwaukee and probably more.

 

[twagler]

Yeah the list of KC grinders is long. Stanley, Walker Turner, Atlas, Miller falls, Thor, blue point, skill, Milwaukee and probably more.

While we are talking about Kingston-Conley bench grinders, here is my Bluepoint-branded version. It's a heavy sucker for only 1/3 HP. When I bought it, the name plate was covered over with black paint, so Iwas pleased when I started cleaning it off to see the Bluepoint/Snap-on branding emerge from under the paint. Probably to my benefit that the Snap-on connection was covered over and not known by the seller and not priced accordingly. I think this is about late '40s or early '50 vintage.
-Tom

 

[lafester]

While we are talking about Kingston-Conley bench grinders, here is my Bluepoint-branded version. It's a heavy sucker for only 1/3 HP. When I bought it, the name plate was covered over with black paint, so Iwas pleased when I started cleaning it off to see the Bluepoint/Snap-on branding emerge from under the paint. Probably to my benefit that the Snap-on connection was covered over and not known by the seller and not priced accordingly. I think this is about late '40s or early '50 vintage.
-Tom

I like the 1/3s that still have the heavy duty tool rests. I have a slow speed 1/3 stanley posted here somewhere. Can we see more of that cool switch?

 

[twagler]

I like the 1/3s that still have the heavy duty tool rests. I have a slow speed 1/3 stanley posted here somewhere. Can we see more of that cool switch?

Hey, keen eye to spot the odd looking on/off switch. So, it is definitely a non-OEM replacement, probably rather sketchy from an electrical safety point-of-view. It is labelled as a "Map Light" which I'm assuming therefore is only 12v-rated and is from a vintage automobile, back in the day when Map Lights were actually a thing. (Actually now I'm envisioning the discussion that I would have to have with my teen-age son to explain the concept of having to carry paper maps of every place you travel with you in a car, and the corresponding need to have a Light to read them with.) Anyways, so far the switch works fine but I can't imagine that the internals were ever designed for motor-starting in-rush current duty.
-Tom

 

[ranger08]

Found this in a liquidators auction for very little due to all the rust.
its a “Solid” 200mm single phase 1 hp made in west Germany
superbly made although the insulated wiring was completely shot
now rewired, repainted with new bearings

 

[Firstram]

That stand is elegant!

 

[Shiftless]

Yeah the list of KC grinders is long. Stanley, Walker Turner, Atlas, Miller falls, Thor, blue point, skill, Milwaukee and probably more.

Here is my Blue Point that I rehabbed a bit a few years ago. I used Rustoleum light machinery gray.

 

[lafester]

That one has a unique design, I like it!