Purchasing Full New Tool Set

[John Stephenson]

I have mostly German, English, Italian and Japanese woodworking machines, the machines are heavy and complex enough to warrant a stockpile of serious tools.

They’re often built with a similar approach as early American, back when they built it heavy so it would run smoothly and quiet.

No one mentioned it so far but a good set of pullers will be absolutely mission critical at times.

I buy mostly older equipment so I work on all of it, but even with the new stuff I’ve had to repair more things than I ever expected to.

I’ll echo the Ko-Ken, PB Swiss, Stahlwille recommendations.

Buy good pry bars which seem to have endless uses for making life easier.

European Woodworking tools tend to use a lot of Allen (internal hex) drive hardware, so buy accordingly.

They also very much love the hook spanner, especially in German tools.

Thank you for jumping in.

Pullers? Can you give me more information? I assume a pulley type puller, but want to be clear. Also, do you recommend a brand?

As far as allen wrenches, I took advantage KC Tool's current sale on the Heyco Metric Ball End Hex T-handle Set and the Wera 133164 Multicolor 2 Metric Hex-Plus L-key Set, BlackLaser. I will pick up SAE sets later. I have never heard of Heyco, I hope they were a good purchase.

Hook spanner? Again, my ignorance is showing. Can you tell me what this is?

 

[John Stephenson]

Wera screwdrivers are a love/hate thing. I really like them. They fit my hands well. The tips seem strong, and grab the fasteners well. They look a bit goofy, and that makes me smile. I've wailed on the bits from my metric Tool-Check, and have been impressed.

The Joker wrenches don't do well on the Torque Test Channel with the open ends. The need for a 12-pt open-end is really hard to justify. Add in that the wrenches are just plain expensive in the USA, and you have a product that just doesn't work. The most basic set of Joker wrenches is $200-ish. I'm not a stranger to paying at least that for a good set of wrenches.... the tools have to measure up, though.

-Ryan

I like that the Wera goofy style makes you smile, it does the same for me.

I am leaning toward the Wright wrenches until someone schools me otherwise.

 

[John Stephenson]

The Nepros are gorgeous. I don’t have a lot, mainly because I have so many other choices.

They are fairly unique, in that they actually look better for real than they do on the advertising!

With regard to Vessel screwdrivers, they make several styles. By far the best are the “Powergrip”. These relatively hard handles are easy to keep clean.


Their “Megadora” drivers (below) are probably more common, but the Powergrips are a notch up in quality!


richfinn’s advice about buying from makers who specialise in a particular type of tool is hard to fault!

Although I have appreciated all of your suggestions, I think I am going to have to stick with Wera for my screw drivers. They have sentimental value since my mentor has a set. However there are two areas in the new shop where I can see having a set, so I will not rule out the Vessel brand quite yet.

 

[John Stephenson]

I got my Mountain Brand (all made by KABO) from Tooltopia, they are great for Automotive work, I don't bother with combo style ratchet spanners anymore.

We don't have Wright Tools in the UK unfortunately.

This set on Tooltopia does look intriguing. Thank you for the suggestion. I have only been considering combination spanners.

 

[richfinn]

This set on Tooltopia does look intriguing. Thank you for the suggestion. I have only been considering combination spanners.

That's what I use for ratchet spanners, then I have a set of regular (non ratchet) combos and a variety of other useful spanners.

We only do Metric stuff in Europe though

 

[GrayFlattop]

And you mentioned wrenches.

I could write loads about wrenches, and probably duplicate much of what I said about ratchets.

Instead, I‘ll just advise one.

These are Facom 440 series wrenches. French designed, and made in Taiwan as Facom were bought by Stanley Black and Decker. They are superb wrenches. Good steel, superbly made, beautifully finished, and a delight to use.

I don’t advise these, as they will be hard / costly to source in the U.S.

But…, I understand that Craftsman offer exactly the same wrench in their “V Series”. These will be a great buy in the U.S. - and available in SAE and Metric.

Note only that the box ends have no offset. I use these adjusting my router table and fitting my home made fences, but only you know exactly the features you need!

Amazon has the 14 pc metric set a available for $103 - very reasonable for a full set 7-24 mm

 

[John Stephenson]

Woodworking tools are expensive. You don't need to buy tons more tools. Save your money for tools that will produce woodwork for you. In terms of basic hand tools, this is what I would do given your situation:

Electrical Tools:

• Set of Klein screwdrivers. You will need screwdrivers for lots of jobs including electrical. Klein makes good, quality made in USA screwdrivers. Sets are pretty darned cheap.
• Electrical circuit tester/DMM. You are going to be messing with cords and electricity no doubt. My pick for DMM is the Fluke T5-600. You don't need extensive DC capabilities if you aren't messing with automotive or electronics. I like mine a lot.
• Cutters, crimpers/strippers, Needle nose pliers - I'd stick with Klein. I like the auto strippers a lot. I have an ancient Radio Shack! pair. Klein make a new version which I've only messed with but seemed just as good as mine.

Mechanical tools:

• Set of Taiwan (ICON?) ratchet wrenches in SAE and metric.
• Knipex pliers wrench (or ICON)
• Klein or Channel lock set of arc joint pliers (aka Channel locks) - you might need big ones for dust collection joints. You can get any makers really.
• Set of 1/4" hex nut drivers, metric and SAE and Allens that fit your impact driver. You will find these invaluable for assembling stuff.
• Cheap set of 1/4" drive sockets. You probably won't need/use 3/8" drive if you have ratchet wrenches. I'd hold off on the other bigger drives.
• You don't need a fancy ratchet. I'd choose the composite HF ratchet - its very light weight, has low back drag which is perfect for assembling new things. You don't need better and more expensive won't be better for you.
• Tee handle Allens and maybe Tee Handle Torx - These are absolutely invaluable in a wood/metal shop. I never use my right angle Allen keys anymore. You'll need these for adjusting router tables etc.
• Hacksaw and files with good handles, not the really cheap plastic things you can buy already on cheap files. Try to find US made files or Grobet or ask around here. A good couple files will last your lifetime.

A couple things you may not be thinking about:

• As a DIY homebuilder, I use the heck out of my Trust Cook S3 slimline dead blow. These Slimline hammers are different from the ones at HF, in that they have long heads that work a little easier for benchwork. I use mine to drive chisels, tapping wood together, you name it. I think if I were you, I'd order the S3, S1, and S0. You will need them all.
• Pica Dry carpenters pencil - 2.8 mm lead. Super nice. Love mine
• Starrett #13A and #13C double squares. Thank me later. I also use a Starrett #11H-6 all the time. Bought it on eBay.
• 123 blocks - you don't need brand named ones, but I'd buy from a reputable dealer. I like Littlemachineshop.com. SHARs has more questionable Chinese stuff which might be okay for you.
• If you are ordering from SHARS, consider a 12X18" surface plate. If you don't know why you'd ever need one, wait a few years and you will find out.
• Also from SHARs consider picking up a dial indicator and a mag base for it. I'd also consider a test indicator, which should be cheap. Just beware, the Chinese dovetails on dial test indicators don't fit every brand of mag base. They specifically do not fit Nogas, Usually the stems are also not compatible. Mitutoyo is really best.
• I think I'd pick up a 6" or 8" digital caliper as well. Again, Mitutoyo is head and shoulders better than others. The new Starretts are also fantastic.

Thank you for your thorough response.

I tried to keep my thread question restricted to wrenches, ratchets and pliers. With some of the helpful responses I have had here I may have to post a new question on calibration equipment. I was looking at Nogas and starrett tools, but am open to other suggestions. Mitutoyo looks nice. Something outstanding on this list is a precision set of engineers squares.

 

[John Stephenson]

Here is my revised list based on what I have learned here:

Wera Tools 12pc Kraftform Big Pack 300 Lasertip Screwdriver Set
WERA 05117682001 368 # 1 X 80 MM S/DRIVER FOR SQUARE SOCKET HEAD
WERA 05117684001 368 # 2 X 100 MM S/DRIVER FOR SQUARE SOCKET HEAD
Wright Tool 9UPSP4 Mini Pick Hook Set 4 Piece
15 Piece Full Polish Metric Combination Wrench Set 7mm-22mm 12 Point (952WR)
Wera Tools Imperial BlackLaser 950/9 Hex-Plus Multicolor 2 L-Key Set
Heyco Metric Ball End Hex T-handle Set, 7 Pieces
Nepros 3/8"sq. Socket Wrench Set (6pt.) Metric (26pcs.)
KNIPEX 9K 00 80 165
Knipex 5.7" Needle-Nose Combination Pliers - Plastic Grip
KNIPEX Tools - Carpenters' End Cutting Pliers (5001210),Grips Plastic Coated, Red,210 millimeters
10″ Curved Jaw Eagle Grip Malco Locking Pliers
7″ Curved Jaw Eagle Grip Malco Locking Pliers w/ Wire Cutter
86 03 250 KNIPEX 10 INCH PLIERS WRENCH
KNIPEX Wire Stripper Metric version
IR924 IREGA 92/ 4" ERGO(C)ADJ WRENCH
IREGA 92W 10" WIDE OPENING ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
IREGA 92WXS/6" XTRASLIM ADJ WRENCH
Halder Secural Dead Blow Hammer

I am still refining the list, but thank you to everyone that has contributed. I look forward to your continued input.

 

[cannuck]

We only do Metric stuff in Europe though

But....you ain't IN Yurp no more. Guess Brexit means you need to buy a bunch of Whitworth tools again.

 

[lardy1]

My shop is mainly a woodworking shop also. I agree with the notion that you don't really need to invest in high end wrenches, sockets, etc. unless it's the only way you'll be happy. I have a lot of nice mechanics tools that really aren't needed. Higher quality than needed for woodworking and home maintenance. But it's a choice I made. You have to decide for yourself where to draw the line on quality and price. Don't sacrifice the quality of your chisels, planes, scrapers, etc. to impress yourself with shiny, chrome, high dollar wrenches that you'll rarely use and don't need.

All my best on your quest.

 

[richfinn]

But....you ain't IN Yurp no more. Guess Brexit means you need to buy a bunch of Whitworth tools again.

The UK is still part of Continental Europe, we just left the European Union (which is some kind of political/trade agreement)

 

[AEAdam]

My shop is mainly a woodworking shop also. I agree with the notion that you don't really need to invest in high end wrenches, sockets, etc. unless it's the only way you'll be happy. I have a lot of nice mechanics tools that really aren't needed. Higher quality than needed for woodworking and home maintenance. But it's a choice I made. You have to decide for yourself where to draw the line on quality and price. Don't sacrifice the quality of your chisels, planes, scrapers, etc. to impress yourself with shiny, chrome, high dollar wrenches that you'll rarely use and don't need.

All my best on your quest.

AGREE. You don’t want to scrimp on the tools you really need. Some of the stuff I listed is pretty expensive and pretty essential.

Wright grip are the wrong wrenches for a wood shop. Nepros, Koken, while beautiful tools are not required and really not appropriate. You don’t need a fine quality ratchet. You want a ratchet that will sit in a drawer full of MDF dust.

Most woodshops I’ve been in have cheap Chinese marking, measuring and layout tools. That’s one place I’d spring for better quality. Starting with a decent digital calipers that don’t eat batteries, then decent squares. I’ve always wanted a good Starrett straight edge. I have the cheapest Stanley plastic bevel - was using it yesterday. Terrible.

 

[bpwoodworking]

That looks like a good start. Pullers for pulleys and bearings will be something you’ll eventually need but you can also just buy them as necessary.

I have a lot of Wera stuff, it’s not my favorite since I feel the tips wear fairly quickly. I’d get the screwdriver set since it means a lot but outside of that I think you are better served by PB Swiss, nepros, KoKen or Felo. Personally I prefer hard tips more likely to snap at failure than softer tips more likely to twist.

I really like knipex stuff, there are plenty of areas where snap on may be better but knipex has done well for me. That said there is room for both .

Woodworking machines have a lot of snap rings, so internal and external snap ring pliers in a range of sizes will come in handy.

The nepros set looks good, that’ll do well. Personally I would add a 1/4” deep set in small sizes for working on electronic connections. I have VDE screwdrivers for this to add an extra level of redundancy but of course a lock out procedure is required for working on machines.

If you are budget minded, a KoKen set will perform identically and cost considerably less. It’s not much of a sacrifice in quality, they’re both excellent.

I’m sure DRPD will have a sale for Black Friday so I’d probably wait for that.

I’ve been hearing that 3/8” is big enough, I don’t agree, I’ve used plenty of 1/2” drive on my tools and it has been necessary.

For precision measuring equipment, Starrett and Mitutoyo, but also Japan Automatic Machine, Suburban Tool, Intrepid, etc. depends often on the specific tool group.

I’m not sure how to describe a hook spanner but you may want to just buy them as necessary. The German machines require them fairly often along with pin spanners.

 

[Dave455]

Here is my revised list based on what I have learned here:

Wera Tools 12pc Kraftform Big Pack 300 Lasertip Screwdriver Set
WERA 05117682001 368 # 1 X 80 MM S/DRIVER FOR SQUARE SOCKET HEAD
WERA 05117684001 368 # 2 X 100 MM S/DRIVER FOR SQUARE SOCKET HEAD
Wright Tool 9UPSP4 Mini Pick Hook Set 4 Piece
15 Piece Full Polish Metric Combination Wrench Set 7mm-22mm 12 Point (952WR)
Wera Tools Imperial BlackLaser 950/9 Hex-Plus Multicolor 2 L-Key Set
Heyco Metric Ball End Hex T-handle Set, 7 Pieces
Nepros 3/8"sq. Socket Wrench Set (6pt.) Metric (26pcs.)
KNIPEX 9K 00 80 165
Knipex 5.7" Needle-Nose Combination Pliers - Plastic Grip
KNIPEX Tools - Carpenters' End Cutting Pliers (5001210),Grips Plastic Coated, Red,210 millimeters
10″ Curved Jaw Eagle Grip Malco Locking Pliers
7″ Curved Jaw Eagle Grip Malco Locking Pliers w/ Wire Cutter
86 03 250 KNIPEX 10 INCH PLIERS WRENCH
KNIPEX Wire Stripper Metric version
IR924 IREGA 92/ 4" ERGO(C)ADJ WRENCH
IREGA 92W 10" WIDE OPENING ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
IREGA 92WXS/6" XTRASLIM ADJ WRENCH
Halder Secural Dead Blow Hammer

I am still refining the list, but thank you to everyone that has contributed. I look forward to your continued input.

That’s looking quite refined!

Heyco are a relatively well known German manufacturer. They make a lot of tools for other companies and tend to be good quality. Must admit I don’t know their hex keys.

Here’s a Heyco acetate handle screwdriver.


Heyco also manufacture these square handled drivers (the yellow ones) for C.K. (a British tool distributer) which I really like.

These tools are from my own woodworking box. The green ones are PB Swiss.


The “carpenters end cutting pliers” you have listed are actually “pincers” for pulling nails. Fine if that’s what you want.

Knipex do offer end cutters, but they are a different tool.


The “Pliers Wrench” I find invaluable around the workshop. Not only does it fit so much, but it doesn’t damage anything as you are clamping it tight.

With regard to the Halder hammer, you are paying a bit for it to have a holiday in Germany before it gets to you. They are good though.

Consider Vaughan, which are U.S. made and very decent.


Many of their soft face hammers are supplied by Thorex in the U.K. but buying the Vaughan is probably the cheapest way to get one.


I see you were tempted by the Nepros. I doubt you will be disappointed.

I too, can resist everything, except temptation….

 

[cannuck]

The UK is still part of Continental Europe, we just left the European Union (which is some kind of political/trade agreement)

Here I thought with all the island thing going on UK, Ireland, Iceland and Greenland would make a new continent called Atlantica...kind of like a cold Indonesia.

 

[richfinn]

Here I thought with all the island thing going on UK, Ireland, Iceland and Greenland would make a new continent called Atlantica...kind of like a cold Indonesia.

Once upon a time we did have a bit of an Empire thing going on, but we felt all that stuff was a bit too 19th century and decided to grant independence to our former colonies and friends (except Canada of course, The King needs somewhere safe to escape to if it all kicks off in Europe again)

 

[cannuck]

Once upon a time we did have a bit of an Empire thing going on, but we felt all that stuff was a bit too 19th century and decided to grant independence to our former colonies and friends (except Canada of course, The King needs somewhere safe to escape to if it all kicks off in Europe again)

I am never sure where my ultimate loyalties lie, as I live in Canada where as you note we still have a "king" but my business involvements include East Hastings and County Wexford, so not sure where roots need to be. I could do Atlanta with no confusion, though.

 

[bpwoodworking]

I find those knipex pincers to be absolutely worthless. They are double beveled, so you can’t pull a staple with them or a nail unless they are sticking out above the surface already.

 

[cannuck]

To the OP: have waited to see where the overall direction would go, so late enough to throw in my $0.02 (probably what it is worth).

I have a mechanical and fabricating shop so hand tools are quite important to me. I long ago switched to mostly Wera screw drivers - not because the are the best on the planet but because they are good enough and I can go to a half dozen places in town and replace missing or worn. Have to keep Vessel drivers for older Japanese motorbikes. I break flat wrenches into two distinct groups: good stuff and loaner/out of shop stuff. Have used Stahwille for more than 50 years and have never found anything better. Keep some Mac, SO and SK for various reasons, but overall I find I can use low buck from Princess Auto or Canadian Tire (think Harbour Freight) for 90% of what I do. Similarly, while I have a wide range of ratchets I actually like my Wera stuff for most purposes. Pretty much go 100% German for pliers - very few exceptions but the old other stuff still hangs around and does a reasonable job.

You will develop your own preferences and there is nothing wrong with anything on your list. I find that the tool truck stuff is sometimes needed (12 pt impacts for instance - IMHO need SO for that) but can't recommend anyone blowing their budget on them without specific needs.

 

[AEAdam]

I think this is a really tough question to answer, John. Without knowing the particulars of the effort or your budget, I think we are defaulting to what each of us likes to use, which is not necessarily the right answer for you.

For example: Depending on how big your operation is, you might need material handling equipment (e.g. fork lift, skid steer with forks, CTL, etc). That something could be so expensive, you need second hand so the tools we’re talking about could end up maintaining that piece of equipment, which really changes everything.

My wood shop, metal shop and auto garage are all separate in that they don’t typically share tools. I have, for example, different screwdriver sets in each shop. But I have other shops’ tools to fall back on when there’s overlap, which there almost always is.

(Metal and auto shop have most.y snap on tools. I like instinct screwdrivers because I can transmit a lot of torque thru those handles. Just got done installing door hardware and locks on french patio doors I just installed. For low torque, installation of new hardware I prefer a screwdriver I can spin fast, thus my Klein recommendation. Instinct is a great tool, but not for this task).

So if you are having stationary tools delivered and you are assembling new equipment, fresh from the factory and just running a few electric lines and dust collection (which is what I was imagining) that’s HF sockets, ratchets and wrenches, and honestly, tho I wouldn’t choose them, Pittsburgh brand.

If we drop in the used equipment, or heavy equipment (fork lift, motorized pallet jack, etc) wild cards, that’s a whole different story.

There’s a lot we don’t know. My guess is you are fishing for ideas. You’ll get better answers when you can be more specific about what you are really trying to accomplish. BTW, no criticism here. Fishing for ideas and getting opinions is fine.

 

[bobg03]

I have a friend who does lots of woodworking on a referral basis only, he's been at it in his 3 car carriage shed since 1978. He does kitchens and baths, cabinets, vanities, furniture, toys and anything that can be crafted out of wood. He has amassed a large collection of equipment over the years.

I tell you this as he spares (at this point in his life) no expense on woodworking hand tools and buys the best he can including spray guns. As for wrenches and sockets and screwdrivers he luvs his acetate screwdrivers and he has the same large craftsman set of sockets and ratchets and wrenches that he purchased when building the shop in 1977, they've never let him down. Sawdust is everywhere even tho he is OCD about cleaning.

 

[richfinn]

I am never sure where my ultimate loyalties lie, as I live in Canada where as you note we still have a "king" but my business involvements include East Hastings and County Wexford, so not sure where roots need to be. I could do Atlanta with no confusion, though.

A lot of us Brits have an Irish connection too, especially in the North/Midlands, my Dad whose parents were both from Ireland itself had to have some testing for a medical condition and it turned out that those damned Vikings had been there already

 

[John Stephenson]

I find those knipex pincers to be absolutely worthless. They are double beveled, so you can’t pull a staple with them or a nail unless they are sticking out above the surface already.

That is one thing I noticed about these pincers. Can you recommend a set with a single bevel?

 

[John Stephenson]

I think this is a really tough question to answer, John. Without knowing the particulars of the effort or your budget, I think we are defaulting to what each of us likes to use, which is not necessarily the right answer for you.

For example: Depending on how big your operation is, you might need material handling equipment (e.g. fork lift, skid steer with forks, CTL, etc). That something could be so expensive, you need second hand so the tools we’re talking about could end up maintaining that piece of equipment, which really changes everything.

My wood shop, metal shop and auto garage are all separate in that they don’t typically share tools. I have, for example, different screwdriver sets in each shop. But I have other shops’ tools to fall back on when there’s overlap, which there almost always is.

(Metal and auto shop have most.y snap on tools. I like instinct screwdrivers because I can transmit a lot of torque thru those handles. Just got done installing door hardware and locks on french patio doors I just installed. For low torque, installation of new hardware I prefer a screwdriver I can spin fast, thus my Klein recommendation. Instinct is a great tool, but not for this task).

So if you are having stationary tools delivered and you are assembling new equipment, fresh from the factory and just running a few electric lines and dust collection (which is what I was imagining) that’s HF sockets, ratchets and wrenches, and honestly, tho I wouldn’t choose them, Pittsburgh brand.

If we drop in the used equipment, or heavy equipment (fork lift, motorized pallet jack, etc) wild cards, that’s a whole different story.

There’s a lot we don’t know. My guess is you are fishing for ideas. You’ll get better answers when you can be more specific about what you are really trying to accomplish. BTW, no criticism here. Fishing for ideas and getting opinions is fine.

I think you could say I am fishing for ideas.

So far, through this thread I have learned a lot more about what is available in this category of tools than I could have imaged. This new knowledge has helped refine my list quite a bit.

The woodworking shop I am putting together is for a former employer who has always wanted to have a woodworking shop under his business umbrella. He has asked me to put together my "dream shop". I will be running it and he may come in on the weekends to work on personal projects. My focus will be cabinetry, furniture and millwork. Eventually I will have a few employees helping in the space. Beyond the main shop there is a separate smaller shop where I will have a spray booth and staging area.

Other shops under this business umbrella include a construction, excavation and , mechanics divisions. I will stay busy fulfilling the construction divisions needs and have any heavy equipment I could ever need available through the excavation division. The tools in the woodworking shop will not leave the shop and will primarily only be used by myself and possibly the owner.

All of the stationary equipment is being new and will hopefully arrive in December. This equipment is all 3 phase. I will be using Nordfab Quick-Fit ducting or something similar for my dust collection.

 

[John Stephenson]

That’s looking quite refined!

Heyco are a relatively well known German manufacturer. They make a lot of tools for other companies and tend to be good quality. Must admit I don’t know their hex keys.

Here’s a Heyco acetate handle screwdriver.


Heyco also manufacture these square handled drivers (the yellow ones) for C.K. (a British tool distributer) which I really like.

These tools are from my own woodworking box. The green ones are PB Swiss.


The “carpenters end cutting pliers” you have listed are actually “pincers” for pulling nails. Fine if that’s what you want.

Knipex do offer end cutters, but they are a different tool.


The “Pliers Wrench” I find invaluable around the workshop. Not only does it fit so much, but it doesn’t damage anything as you are clamping it tight.

With regard to the Halder hammer, you are paying a bit for it to have a holiday in Germany before it gets to you. They are good though.

Consider Vaughan, which are U.S. made and very decent.


Many of their soft face hammers are supplied by Thorex in the U.K. but buying the Vaughan is probably the cheapest way to get one.


I see you were tempted by the Nepros. I doubt you will be disappointed.

I too, can resist everything, except temptation….

I am still on the fence with the Nepros. As many on here have mentioned they are quite overkill for a woodworker. I may switch it out for the Williams if I get cold feet. Or maybe look at another brand that lands between the two in pricing.

I put the Halder dead blow on my list because I recently picked up a Halder SIMPLEX soft-face mallet an love it. That and who doesn't like their hammers to match? I would prefer a wood handle though. I will take a look at Vaughan, thank you for the suggestion.

 

[Dave455]

I am still on the fence with the Nepros. As many on here have mentioned they are quite overkill for a woodworker. I may switch it out for the Williams if I get cold feet. Or maybe look at another brand that lands between the two in pricing.

I put the Halder dead blow on my list because I recently picked up a Halder SIMPLEX soft-face mallet an love it. That and who doesn't like their hammers to match? I would prefer a wood handle though. I will take a look at Vaughan, thank you for the suggestion.

KoKen are probably worth considering. Very good quality, very durable, not quite as pretty as Nepros, but not so costly either. They only make socket wrenches and accessories.

 

[John Stephenson]

KoKen are probably worth considering. Very good quality, very durable, not quite as pretty as Nepros, but not so costly either. They only make socket wrenches and accessories.

I like that you can get KoKen in foam sets. I am hoping to be able to store most of these tools in foam some how.

For whatever reason I am drawn to ratchets with bare steel handles. That's probably not the best way to choose a tool.

 

[richfinn]

I like that you can get KoKen in foam sets. I am hoping to be able to store most of these tools in foam some how.

For whatever reason I am drawn to ratchets with bare steel handles. That's probably not the best way to choose a tool.

I use these guys for my Ko-ken purchases

They often have nice deals (just stick to Ko-ken brand), this is a great little starter set of 3/8" metric sockets

Koken RS3400MSP-set-12 12piece extra 3/8".Dr 6-point socket set | UKtools

UKtools Professional Hand Tools, Specialist Socketry from Koken Tools, Facom, Britool, Gearwrench, Signet, Trident, Elora, Knipex, Bondhus and more

www.uktools.com

 

[VolvoRyan]

Wright grip are the wrong wrenches for a wood shop.

I wholeheartedly endorse this opinion. The "teeth" in the open ends can leave marks behind in tight fasteners. Even when the fasteners aren't stuck at all, the teeth are aggressive enough to damage the coatings on fasteners.

They are amazing for frozen jam nuts on tie rods, though!

-Ryan

 

[Dave455]

I like that you can get KoKen in foam sets. I am hoping to be able to store most of these tools in foam some how.

For whatever reason I am drawn to ratchets with bare steel handles. That's probably not the best way to choose a tool.

Ratchets with plain steel handles are the most practical for mechanical work. If you get grease and dirt on them they are easy to wipe down.

These soft handles are often favoured by manufacturers because they are cheaper than metal, but any used in a real shop just become a blob of dirt.

Possibly a consideration if you have sawdust around.

KoKen offer two sorts of metal handle. The smooth are easier to clean, the knurled offer a better grip, especially if you might need to twist the handle,

 

[John Stephenson]

I wholeheartedly endorse this opinion. The "teeth" in the open ends can leave marks behind in tight fasteners. Even when the fasteners aren't stuck at all, the teeth are aggressive enough to damage the coatings on fasteners.

They are amazing for frozen jam nuts on tie rods, though!

-Ryan

Thank you for the reply. I will continue looking for a set of wrenches. Is there a set you recommend?

 

[AEAdam]

Ok new idea: All USA makers. Skip the euro and asian stuff and see how you do. Or, maybe choose all Hazet or.... I think USA could be fun. See what you can get from Williams USA for example. I don't think Harbor Freight cuts it for a dream shop.

And just a suggestion, get a Kennedy roll cab and shadow it. For the cabinet shop stuff, maybe a Kennedy top box filled with drill bits, hex drivers, router bits etc.

Idea is, the tool brand may not be as fun as the set would be. In a dream shop, I think I'd want a mech tool kit with every thing - full sets of sockets, wrenches, big screwdriver set. Maybe you can make it slide under a workbench.

John, I'm converting barn into a home for my family in my part time. I'm forever looking for tools walking around and around. Wish I had a dream shop set of tools. I think I actually have almost everything and I even have the tool boxes. Just haven't put it all together. Could save a lot of time and aggravation. Maybe that would be a good winter project for us both!

 

[bpwoodworking]

Kennedy boxes are great, they’re pretty easy to find used in good shape for relatively inexpensive prices.

I have a set of stahlwille with steel handles, another set of them with soft handles, KoKen with soft handles and a few Nepros. All in the wood shop. They’re all perfectly fine and I use all of them.

So far I have socket sets from nepros, stahlwille, KoKen and Williams, all are fine. Frankly the Williams stuff is just not **** enough for me but it works just fine.

For wrench sets I have Hazet XL, Stahlwille and I really like them a lot. In the past I’ve used Par-X and I like them. The Japanese brands I don’t like quite as much since they’re a bit thin for my preference.

I setup a box near every group of tools with a basic hand tool set and specialty tools related to those machines.

This also allows me to keep precious items like heavy cutter blocks, carbide, fixturing items and tool accessories away in a dedicated box rather than floating around the shop or attached to a wall collecting dust.

I cut foam for every tool in practically every drawer so that things go back exactly where they came from so that I don’t waste time/effort tracking down tools.

Whatever money spent collecting tools and cutting in foam has been made up for many fold with improved productivity. I remind myself of that every time I visit anyone else’s shop and help them setup their machines. Almost always time is wasted looking for tools that were dropped off at the last location they were used rather than being put away. And typically the absolutely bare minimum of things is available and so it makes the process of doing anything considerably more difficult and time consuming.

Soft handles don’t get wrecked in the wood shop all that easily, so no real worries there.

Don’t put your toolboxes down range of dust spray.

Every time you have to quit what you’re building to go to the local place and buy something you didn’t add into your tool box it costs you considerably more than the tool itself.

 

[John Stephenson]

Ok new idea: All USA makers. Skip the euro and asian stuff and see how you do. Or, maybe choose all Hazet or.... I think USA could be fun. See what you can get from Williams USA for example. I don't think Harbor Freight cuts it for a dream shop.

And just a suggestion, get a Kennedy roll cab and shadow it. For the cabinet shop stuff, maybe a Kennedy top box filled with drill bits, hex drivers, router bits etc.

Idea is, the tool brand may not be as fun as the set would be. In a dream shop, I think I'd want a mech tool kit with every thing - full sets of sockets, wrenches, big screwdriver set. Maybe you can make it slide under a workbench.

John, I'm converting barn into a home for my family in my part time. I'm forever looking for tools walking around and around. Wish I had a dream shop set of tools. I think I actually have almost everything and I even have the tool boxes. Just haven't put it all together. Could save a lot of time and aggravation. Maybe that would be a good winter project for us both!

Your enthusiasm has me excited!

I will continue to look at the Williams catalogue and consider your suggestion.

How do Kennedy cabinets compare to Lista? I was planning on getting a Lista cabinet for my shaper tooling so was going to get an extra one for my mechanics tools and other miscellaneous. I'm sorry, I do not know what "shadow it" means. My benches are all built on hydraulic lifts so there is no storage under them. Fortunately there is plenty of room to store a mechanics chest at one end of the shop.

I will have router bit storage covered with the router table I built for the shop.


I also should have plenty of space for all of my drill bits in the drill press cabinet.


My mobile sanding cart will house my drivers commonly used drill bits and much, much more.


I would love to hear more about your project. Especially as you begin to put everything together.

 

[John Stephenson]

Kennedy boxes are great, they’re pretty easy to find used in good shape for relatively inexpensive prices.

I have a set of stahlwille with steel handles, another set of them with soft handles, KoKen with soft handles and a few Nepros. All in the wood shop. They’re all perfectly fine and I use all of them.

So far I have socket sets from nepros, stahlwille, KoKen and Williams, all are fine. Frankly the Williams stuff is just not **** enough for me but it works just fine.

For wrench sets I have Hazet XL, Stahlwille and I really like them a lot. In the past I’ve used Par-X and I like them. The Japanese brands I don’t like quite as much since they’re a bit thin for my preference.

I setup a box near every group of tools with a basic hand tool set and specialty tools related to those machines.

This also allows me to keep precious items like heavy cutter blocks, carbide, fixturing items and tool accessories away in a dedicated box rather than floating around the shop or attached to a wall collecting dust.

I cut foam for every tool in practically every drawer so that things go back exactly where they came from so that I don’t waste time/effort tracking down tools.

Whatever money spent collecting tools and cutting in foam has been made up for many fold with improved productivity. I remind myself of that every time I visit anyone else’s shop and help them setup their machines. Almost always time is wasted looking for tools that were dropped off at the last location they were used rather than being put away. And typically the absolutely bare minimum of things is available and so it makes the process of doing anything considerably more difficult and time consuming.

Soft handles don’t get wrecked in the wood shop all that easily, so no real worries there.

Don’t put your toolboxes down range of dust spray.

Every time you have to quit what you’re building to go to the local place and buy something you didn’t add into your tool box it costs you considerably more than the tool itself.

It sounds like you are already doing what I am aspiring to do, its great to have your input.

I have been thinking of getting a Lista box for the shaper and one for mechanics tools and other miscellaneous items. Like everything else I have been asking about I have little knowledge of tool boxes. but have been around Lista boxes and have enjoyed them. I would appreciate hearing your thoughts on tool boxes.

"Frankly the Williams stuff is just not **** enough for me but it works just fine." I'm glad I'm not the only one picking out tools based on their looks. LOL.

Currently KC Tools has the Hazet 606N/12 Ratcheting combination wrench set 12 pc metric with case 8-19mm on their "Grey Friday Sale". I have been considering it very heavily even though I had not been planning on spoiling myself with ratchet wrenches. Do you feel this would be a good buy for me?

I would be interested to hear about how you do your foam inserts. I am assuming cutting them out with a scalpel? Do you have a preferred brand of foam?

 

[John Stephenson]

Ok new idea: All USA makers. Skip the euro and asian stuff and see how you do. Or, maybe choose all Hazet or.... I think USA could be fun. See what you can get from Williams USA for example. I don't think Harbor Freight cuts it for a dream shop.

And just a suggestion, get a Kennedy roll cab and shadow it. For the cabinet shop stuff, maybe a Kennedy top box filled with drill bits, hex drivers, router bits etc.

Idea is, the tool brand may not be as fun as the set would be. In a dream shop, I think I'd want a mech tool kit with every thing - full sets of sockets, wrenches, big screwdriver set. Maybe you can make it slide under a workbench.

John, I'm converting barn into a home for my family in my part time. I'm forever looking for tools walking around and around. Wish I had a dream shop set of tools. I think I actually have almost everything and I even have the tool boxes. Just haven't put it all together. Could save a lot of time and aggravation. Maybe that would be a good winter project for us both!

Now you have me searching for Williams wrenches. Do you have a site you use to order Williams wrenches?

 

[John Stephenson]

I wholeheartedly endorse this opinion. The "teeth" in the open ends can leave marks behind in tight fasteners. Even when the fasteners aren't stuck at all, the teeth are aggressive enough to damage the coatings on fasteners.

They are amazing for frozen jam nuts on tie rods, though!

-Ryan

Do you know if the Williams wrenches have "teeth"? it looks like some of their wrenches do, but I am not sure.

 

[richfinn]

Stahlwille 14/17 17 Piece Open Box Long Combination Spanner Set 6-22mm

Contains: 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 & 22mm.

www.primetools.co.uk

Good deal

 

[F-22]

Do you know if the Williams wrenches have "teeth"? it looks like some of their wrenches do, but I am not sure.

The US made Williams Super Combo wrenches have very mild teeth. The off-edge engagement would make me assume they actually leave less marks on the nut than a classic wrench.

So it depends - some anti slip wrenches are agressive and leave marks and some do not. I think the Super Combo wrenches from Williams are fine.

 

[Raineman]

They have asked me to put together my "dream shop" on a large scale.

"put together my dream shop" ??

You may hear that, but to me that would sound like, "Call Snap on, get what you want. Heck, call Nepros and Knipex too while your at it".

LOL