Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Jar944's 3car cabinet shop.
- Thread starter jar944
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
Started working on more trim for my windows. I was only planning on working on one window, but that turned into three, then my wife asked why I was only doing two of the four new windows.. so that makes five. So far its just the extension jambs and the stools. The stools are 1&1/4" thick with a moulded return. Jamb legs are pocket screwed into the stool and head. Two stools have rebates (the two sitting on the slider wagon) cut on the rabbet ledge of the jointer. I actually hadn't ever used it before and didn't want to set up a shaper for two cuts. Not the best looking cut, but it won't ever be seen so..
Naturally a couple of cockups occurred that needed fixed.
I will say the one thing I'm loving about the slider is the crosscut fence and flip stops. It's night and day compared to measuring and clamping a block of wood to the sled fence.
Naturally a couple of cockups occurred that needed fixed.
I will say the one thing I'm loving about the slider is the crosscut fence and flip stops. It's night and day compared to measuring and clamping a block of wood to the sled fence.
casmurbax
Well-known member
Thy look great. How many more you have left? More then just those?
New windows? None after these. Existing windows: 12 left on upper Level (4 of those are fake paladin/ arch top, and one is site mulled triple. Another 5 on the main floor, of those two are factory mulled doubles and one site triple.
So, more than id like. I've been avoiding the pita windows..
I really should get some 7/8 s2s for jamb stock. I'm wasting way too much time using up my "free" wood.
Because why do anything the simple way, when you have the ability to significantly over complicate things..
Looking at the back of the casing/extension jambs reminded me of this meme
I strongly considered going to a normal miter vs the jack miter I've used on all casing so far.. my router template to cut the miters wasn't working well and needed a refresh to the bearing face.
It's better, but not perfect
I actually still haven't decided how I want to do the apron on these. The white line will be a wall of built-in cabinets flanking the fireplace in the center.
Looking at the back of the casing/extension jambs reminded me of this meme
I strongly considered going to a normal miter vs the jack miter I've used on all casing so far.. my router template to cut the miters wasn't working well and needed a refresh to the bearing face.
It's better, but not perfect
I actually still haven't decided how I want to do the apron on these. The white line will be a wall of built-in cabinets flanking the fireplace in the center.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
There you go! 
casmurbax
Well-known member
That looks great.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Ah, better too much than not enough.
Ah, better too much than not enough.
Usually I agree, but I'm running to downtown Philadelphia and a single axle 5k would be plenty. Unless I come home with mutiple machines..lol
I had a 9' single axle reserved but they canceled the reservation because the trailer lights were not working.. apparently it's too complicated to fix in 24 hours.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I did the math ...
More deck space=more tool space.
You are welcome.
More deck space=more tool space.
You are welcome.
Goddammit.. I didn't realize the motor door was 40lbs and had no real latch and only a spring catch. One bent hinge pin and I got off lucky. at least it didn't fall off the trailer.
9 hours door to door. In case anyone is curious it's a mid 70s martin T-17 bench saw with sliding table (short stroke) should be 6.8hp and can swing a 18" blade. 1.25" arbor diameter so it can also take shaper heads. It's missing the dado adapter, but a friend on IG let me know he had 5 dado arbors made. It's missing the sliding table clamp, and stops but does have the fence. This particular machine does not have the scoring saw, ans has the older style rip fence.
Sliding table
Philadelphia
What a pristine t17 looks like
9 hours door to door. In case anyone is curious it's a mid 70s martin T-17 bench saw with sliding table (short stroke) should be 6.8hp and can swing a 18" blade. 1.25" arbor diameter so it can also take shaper heads. It's missing the dado adapter, but a friend on IG let me know he had 5 dado arbors made. It's missing the sliding table clamp, and stops but does have the fence. This particular machine does not have the scoring saw, ans has the older style rip fence.
Sliding table
Philadelphia
What a pristine t17 looks like
Last edited:
Denwood
Well-known member
That looks like very serious kit sir 
Nice find. I'm guessing it was worth a 9 hour drive too....
Nice find. I'm guessing it was worth a 9 hour drive too....casmurbax
Well-known member
Ok I can't keep things straight. How is this better than the sliding one you have?
And this means a game of Tetris?
And this means a game of Tetris?
RickP
Well-known member
I'm still impressed by how you track down deals on big old iron.
That looks like a really nice saw!
That looks like a really nice saw!
No tetris, I'm keeping the rojek slider because it has a 9' stroke. The Martin will replace my pm66 that is currently on the outfeed end of the slider. The downside to the rojek (beyond being somewhat lightweight) is the lack of a dado capability. This setup will be specifically for ripping (at least for now). The other thing it can do is run shaper heads since it's a 1.25" arbor and built like a tank.
My plan was to move the slider over to my casolin shaper as a side tenoning table. Shapers with Side tenoning tables are not that common and finding one loose in the wild is all but impossible. The nice thing about the Martin slider on this saw is its the same as the one on their shapers and made to be easily removed (for something that's 300lbs) all I need to do is add the mounts since the rail just clamps on to the machine.
Side slider on a Martin shaper.
This one was literally just was sitting out there on Craigslist. Decent pictures, correct listing.. I have no idea why it was still there. It was about the price of a sawstop jobsite saw, which is about 1/2 to 1/3 the going price of the few examples (its a relatively rare model saw) I've seen sell.
csp
Well-known member
I would imagine that the audience for that Martin is pretty small in any given location. It's a matter of finding someone who knows what it is and is willing to travel if they are not local.
Sure, it's a lot smaller market for a industrial, 3ph saw than say a powermatic 66. That said the pool of buyers for typical martin machines tend to be more likely or willing to have equipment shipped in. Had it been listed on woodweb or even fb marketplace I would expect it would have sold in a few days.
Something seems off on the assembly. The infeed gib has no clearance and binds up when bolted in place even when shifted to the loose position. I added .025" shims and had enough clearance to engage the lateral bolts to set the clearance to .003". The handwheel turns easily now.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I guess shims would work but do you know someone with a mill or better yet a surface grinder that can modify those pieces permanently?
I guess shims would work but do you know someone with a mill or better yet a surface grinder that can modify those pieces permanently?
I posted in another forum and someone suggested sawdust buildup behind the spindle plate. That was a realization that a worn assembly would be loose not tight. I loosened everything up and flushed with wd40 and compressed air.
That made the difference and no shims were needed to get the appropriate clearance when bolted back together.
The saw is actually not as complicated as it first appears.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Well I'm glad it was that simple! Carry on.....
Sold my pm66 today, took 6 days on fb marketplace. Fortunately the first person who said they were coming out actually did.
So ignoring what I paid for the pm66 and pm180 (which was less than i sold them for) I was able to upgrade to the Martin t17 and bridgewood 24" planer (ignoring r&r costs on the bridgewood) for $150, and I got a free power feeder.
Imho used industrial 3phase is equipment is the way to go..
So ignoring what I paid for the pm66 and pm180 (which was less than i sold them for) I was able to upgrade to the Martin t17 and bridgewood 24" planer (ignoring r&r costs on the bridgewood) for $150, and I got a free power feeder.
Imho used industrial 3phase is equipment is the way to go..
I've been looking into building a nice router table. For what I'd have into one I could buy a used shaper!
Not sure how it'd fit in the basement though
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Where there is a will there is a way...
larry4406
Well-known member
And still on 200A service?
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Well learned something new today so thanks or maybe not thanks depending on the flood gates it could open. I was wondering how @jar944 was using all these 3 phase machines but I really didn't want to know for my wallets sake really. Now I know.I assume you are using VFDs for all of your 3 phase equipment? I could look back thru this thread, but it’s kinda long…which is cool….
The higher hp VFD's are not the best option if cost is a factor, or you have mutiple 3ph machines. A rpc or even a phase perfect is likely less expensive. They do offer the benefit of soft start which on larger hp equipment becomes beneficial/required to not dim the lights in the neighborhood.
You can also under drive with VFD's as an example I'm running 3hp (12fla) VFD's on a couple 5hp (13/14fla) machines. The vfd will provide 150% of the rated fla for 60 seconds, which would cover most use cases.
After some more time with the rojek I regret not buying a slider years ago. I haven't used my track saw since I got the slider. I also (and to a lesser extent) regret not buying a 10' machine. Which of course means im looking (casually) for a Altendorf f45 or a martin t71. I'd take a casolin Astra or griggio sc3000 as well, if they were local and priced right.
Everything that was a muti step or multi tool process ie Straight line ripping, squaring, crosscuts, panel sizing are all easier/faster with a sliding table saw.
I'm working on a coffee bar currently, relatively small inset cabinet with finished end panel and a matching open shelved upper.
Everything that was a muti step or multi tool process ie Straight line ripping, squaring, crosscuts, panel sizing are all easier/faster with a sliding table saw.
I'm working on a coffee bar currently, relatively small inset cabinet with finished end panel and a matching open shelved upper.