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1980s Campbell Hausfeld.

Sumboodie

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Ideas on CFM?

5hp motor, 1750rpm.20250316_162310.jpg
The model is the dented in numbers I think. No lights or power in the building anymore.

Was a welding shop/hobby work, guy aged out, ended up in a home and passed. Looks like late 90s, early 2000s was the last anyone had been in there. Found a ton of oil and some Quaker State had a contest with 2002 for last accepting entries.
Lot of parts from 70s-90s. Looks like last worked on a 2nd gen Dodge.

But heavy equipment stuff, bit of welding gear, like 20+ toolboxes, some upper/lower cabinet style, bit of old power tools. Even stuff for body work, wood floor finrnishing, etc.
All in a ~25x50 WW2 QUONSET HUT.
20250316_162318.jpg

I have a 120 or 160 gallon compressor but pretty much don't have enough power to run it.
I just need something that can handle occasional sandblasting so maybe 25cfm at ~120 psi.
 
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micromind

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Actual true 5HP will deliver around 20 CFMs @ 100 PSI.

What is the amp rating of the motor, an actual 5HP will be somewhere around 25 @230 volts single phase.

Since it's 1750RPM, there's a good chance it is an actual 5HP.

The advertised HP of air compressors is often grossly inflated.
 
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Sumboodie

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Actual true 5HP will deliver around 20 CFMs @ 100 PSI.

What is the amp rating of the motor, an actual 5HP will be somewhere around 25 @230 volts single phase.

Since it's 1750RPM, there's a good chance it is an actual 5HP.

The advertised HP of air compressors is often grossly inflated.
Thought i had a pic of data tag, but my internet and this site isn't playing nice.

20250316_145933.jpg
 

rocksnstumps

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Looks at least it has a ASME certified tank tag so not like it was a low ball consumer grade one to start with. That said would not fork over $500 without being able to verify tank in very good condition. Expect belt is old/cracked and needs to be replaced too. I would be sticking around $400 maybe $425 max. The single phase real 5 HP motor does have some appeal but might need starting cap after this long. That's about $30.

But at $400 that is above the original price I'm sure.
 

driftpin

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I have a C-H 30 gal wheeled-portable air compressor, 240V 1 Ph, 15 amps, bought from a friend (the original owner), 2 stage, cast iron pump, w/a new switch and reed valve, new head gasket I installed. I bought it a long time ago. 8 CFM @ 90 psi. It just sits, as I have a Saylor-Beall 80 gal vertical tank air compressor in the shop. I tried putting it on CL and got a couple nibbles but no-one to come see it. It works perfectly, and I wasn't asking the moon, I asked $200. I always drained the tank. It also has the ASME metal badge. I painted three cars w/it, not pro quality, just to keep rust at bay. I'm not a pro bodyshop person.

If you don't find any issues, and it operates OK, buy it. I see your unit is 22 amps @ 240V 1 Ph.
 

Firebrick43

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Is this Fact or Opinion?

If it has a ASME U stamp, that i haven't seen yet a picture of, it can be used for industrial/commercial use.

They require a professional to inspect the vessels every 5 years. At the plants I worked at it was always ultrasonic thickness inspections on the bottom for severe rusting reducing the thickness. Most of the U stamped receivers have been replaced long ago, plant started construction in 79. Some down stream with dryers for CMM rooms were still in use but they had little to no water in them.

There are pictures abound of a few tanks that have blown up, and a lot more that just start leaking out the bottom due to rust pin holes and are on the verge of blowing up.

Here is a good video of a home shop guy that had one compressor blow up and was proactive with his other one, a 1993, plus it shows several other explosions caught on CCTV


In a later video he sections this tank and you can see how thin the bottom is in places, 2:20 time stamp if you don't want to watch anything.
That was less than a min searching and 3 min scanning thru videos, there is a ton of more material just on youtube about it.


So do you think it's just opinion?

1742318463796.png
 

TdK71

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If it has a ASME U stamp, that i haven't seen yet a picture of, it can be used for industrial/commercial use.

They require a professional to inspect the vessels every 5 years. At the plants I worked at it was always ultrasonic thickness inspections on the bottom for severe rusting reducing the thickness. Most of the U stamped receivers have been replaced long ago, plant started construction in 79. Some down stream with dryers for CMM rooms were still in use but they had little to no water in them.

There are pictures abound of a few tanks that have blown up, and a lot more that just start leaking out the bottom due to rust pin holes and are on the verge of blowing up.

Here is a good video of a home shop guy that had one compressor blow up and was proactive with his other one, a 1993, plus it shows several other explosions caught on CCTV


In a later video he sections this tank and you can see how thin the bottom is in places, 2:20 time stamp if you don't want to watch anything.
That was less than a min searching and 3 min scanning thru videos, there is a ton of more material just on youtube about it.


So do you think it's just opinion?

1742318463796.png
I do, without testing it. I know about catatstophic failures of air tanks but to categorically state that that tank is a bomb is just fear mongering.

That being said an old tank shoud be pressure tested.

I recently built my compressor with a used 60 gallon tank that I got from FB Marketplace, I did pressure test the vessel prior to building the compressor, the process I used is detailed in my post here: Garage Journal Compressor Build thread.
I ran a 12 hour hydrostatic pressure test at 3 time the rated pressure that the tank would be pressurized to. It's easy if you have a pressure washer and garden hose.

To use a 50 year old compressor tank without prior testing is dangerous. But age is not a death sentence if the tank is regularly maintained.

To use a used air compressor tank without pressure testing it prior is reckless and dangerous, but your categorical assumption that it's inherently dangerous is reckless.
 

Firebrick43

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I do, without testing it. I know about catatstophic failures of air tanks but to categorically state that that tank is a bomb is just fear mongering.

That being said an old tank shoud be pressure tested.
Why? Its done as part of the manufacture to test the welds and heat affected zones . The pressure inspection code or API 510 states

api 510-1.jpg

API pressure vessel inspection code
page 25


I have never seen a pressure test done on any of the hundreds of U stamp ASME pressure vessel inspections i have done personally or been part of. But every inspection has used methods to measure metal thickness and compare to the data tags specs.
I recently built my compressor with a used 60 gallon tank that I got from FB Marketplace, I did pressure test the vessel prior to building the compressor, the process I used is detailed in my post here: Garage Journal Compressor Build thread.
I ran a 12 hour hydrostatic pressure test at 3 time the rated pressure that the tank would be pressurized to. It's easy if you have a pressure washer and garden hose.
Why did you choose such a high and unsafe pressure of 3 times the working pressure? Its supposed to be 1.3-1.5 times the max working pressure. It is likely you deformed/stretched the metal at that high of pressure?

ASME UG 99 hydro test is the initial test and if alterations or repairs have been done, API 510 says the exact same thing.

api 510.jpg

source is same API 510 document above.

To use a used air compressor tank without pressure testing it prior is reckless and dangerous, but your categorical assumption that it's inherently dangerous is reckless.
I am basing in on hundreds of inspections the I perform routinely for my job on ASME pressure vessels. I have never seen an air receiver directly after the pump anywhere close to that age pass, even with auto drains. If the pits exceeds the corrosion allowance specs from the supplier the tank is scrapped. Reckless is the opposite of what i have been accused of with regards to safety.
 
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M635_Guy

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Even before @Firebrick43 laid down some knowledge, I would not feel very confident in a tank that old from a rust/integrity perspective...
 

Bert_

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Do people really worry this much about stuff? Kind of a serious question. Maybe I should worry more?

I used a tank with a pinhole in it for a couple years. Would often seal itself with a flake of rust until it leaked constantly. I finally scrapped it. I put that pump on a good 20 year old tank.
 
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Sumboodie

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A Campbell Hausfeld TF series is an industrial quality compressor pump.
I had taken photos of the whole unit but they didn't save for some reason.

It doesn't look Homes Depot quality to me but shop quality at least.

Tried sandblasting yesterday with my current compressor. At 20 min job took nearly 2 hours waiting in the compressor. And it was spitting water like crazy, even with an expensive air/water seperator.
 
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Sumboodie

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Well apparently STILL can't load saved screenshots on here.

Don't understand why.
 

KT_NorCal

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Well apparently STILL can't load saved screenshots on here.

Don't understand why.
I have a thread in the help section on this issue... Try downloading them to your computer and just simply re-save them. This site has some touchy .jpg rendering code.
 

KT_NorCal

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As far as your compressor goes, a good industrial grade pump is going to be better than just about anything you can pick up at an actual store these days so even if you have to get a different tank for it it would still probably be a good deal as long as it is in working order.

Not sure if this is the exact one, but I got a similar one on a tank I got for my compressor build. It was apparently a Champion design originally (mine is labelled SpeedAir). Parts are readily available.



Also this was the spec plate said on mine with a 7.5 HP motor:
23.5 CFM at 175 psi
 
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kaymccampbell

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That was a nice compressor in the day. Assuming so much, it's probably worth $200. What you're buying is a rebuildable pump, a maybe motor, and a testable, but unknown tank.

What kind of air water separator are we talking about?
 

MikeC55

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I thought if it had the ASME stamp it meant the tank was designed so it would leak before burst.
 
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Sumboodie

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As far as your compressor goes, a good industrial grade pump is going to be better than just about anything you can pick up at an actual store these days so even if you have to get a different tank for it it would still probably be a good deal as long as it is in working order.

Not sure if this is the exact one, but I got a similar one on a tank I got for my compressor build. It was apparently a Champion design originally (mine is labelled SpeedAir). Parts are readily available.



Also this was the spec plate said on mine with a 7.5 HP motor:
23.5 CFM at 175 psi
Silimilar.

Says Campbell Hausfeld a Scott Fetzer company. Whoever that is.
 
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Sumboodie

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That was a nice compressor in the day. Assuming so much, it's probably worth $200. What you're buying is a rebuildable pump, a maybe motor, and a testable, but unknown tank.

What kind of air water separator are we talking about?
Just the normal one.

I offered $400 for it.

Judging by the other tools at the place, stuff was cared for.
 

driftpin

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The "Leaning Tower of...Pizza!"

Are you going to put some vibration pads under the feet? I recall on here some people have used hockey pucks. Cheap and they work, apparently. When I got my Saylor-Beall 80 gal. upright, the seller, a new and used air-compressor sales place, sold me some great pads.

Some pieces: https://aircompressorservices.com/c...CZfBa4v1_ycfKAIoxatKK63qFo-Yg-vWnTsrXsoAX0-Uh

The Solberg style intake helps to cut-down on compressor noise. Info form GJ: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/compressor-intake-muffler-suggestions-please.466198/
 
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Sumboodie

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The "Leaning Tower of...Pizza!"

Are you going to put some vibration pads under the feet? I recall on here some people have used hockey pucks. Cheap and they work, apparently. When I got my Saylor-Beall 80 gal. upright, the seller, a new and used air-compressor sales place, sold me some great pads.

Some pieces: https://aircompressorservices.com/c...CZfBa4v1_ycfKAIoxatKK63qFo-Yg-vWnTsrXsoAX0-Uh

The Solberg style intake helps to cut-down on compressor noise. Info form GJ: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/compressor-intake-muffler-suggestions-please.466198/
It looks worse in the pic, the driveway slopes as well.
The pallet broke while I lashed it to the headache rack too.

Thinking of just building a pallet for it. Would make it much easier to move.
It's not easy to sling, there's pipes in the way and it's really too heavy to man handle. I'd guess it's 500-600lbs.

It's going in a connex that also has my used oil boiler and air underground piped to the shop.
 
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Sumboodie

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Picked up some 2x4s to make a pallet for it. Probably will do 3.5ft square. The feet are 2ft apart, so that'll give 8" each side. Plus my pallet jack is about 28" wide and 3.5x3 = a full 8ft 2x4.

The smaller 60 gallon Hone Depot unit I had I had just carried to the corner. There's no way I can carry this one. I bet it's every bit of 500lbs.
 
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Sumboodie

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Well, cleaned it today and the paint basically melted off the tank from LA Awesome degreaser.
Didn't do anything to the pump or the mount plate or the feet, so no idea!
Going to give it a couple coats of spray bomb.
 
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Sumboodie

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Didn't have time to get it fully going before leaving for work.

Was waiting on oil and need to wire it still.
They had wired it with random bits of 12 Guage, which I think is too small? Plus it was crumbling apart.

Was thinking of using #10 SJOW and a 50 amp plug for now. I'll hardwire it in the conex when I get it moved in place, this is just temporary.
 
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Sumboodie

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10 gauge, 30 amp breaker for this? 50 amp breaker?

Figuring to run the shed off a 10 or 8 gauge run. Will just be the compressor and boilers in there, those are maybe 10 amps each.

Maybe 75ft run, if that.

They had it running with 12 gauge. Motor plate says 24 amps I think. 5 hp.
 

Model A Fan

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10 gauge, 30 amp breaker for this? 50 amp breaker?

Figuring to run the shed off a 10 or 8 gauge run. Will just be the compressor and boilers in there, those are maybe 10 amps each.

Maybe 75ft run, if that.

They had it running with 12 gauge. Motor plate says 24 amps I think. 5 hp.
From my understanding after doing enough wiring for these sorts of projects, a 10 gauge wire will be needed for that compressor. It is 22A what the motor runs at. To size it properly, you need to have an extra 25% factored into the amperage of the breaker to accommodate a surge. This would mean you need AT LEAST a 27.5A breaker, so 10AWG wire and a 30A breaker would put you well over the 25% extra.

A 50A breaker would not be good because you could wind up with the motor drawing MORE than 22A but LESS THAN 50A and get a fire or burn up the motor from heat. Hopefully others will weigh in on this topic, but that is my understanding as to how this should be installed/wired.

As far as a pallet or something else, what would be another way to anchor it to the floor? I imagine drilling holes, putting in epoxy and bolts into cement and then using big nuts to hold it down? I have a similar beastly compressor that I need to install, but its sort of a back burner project for the time being. I am trying to decide if I want to build an enclosure for it inside a room in my barn and vent it outside for noise reduction.

Here's a thread about my compressor and some similar questions, whether its worth a read to you or not, that's up to you.

Compressor and Sand Blasting Cabinet Thread
 
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Sumboodie

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The 50 amp breaker is because of starting draw.

Google claims breaker is 2.5x FLA so that's 60 amps.

I know my "3hp" compressor would sometimes trip a 20 amp breaker in the winter when it got cold (compressor was out in a shed).

I did some reading last night and jeez!

Some saying 12 gauge, others 10, others claiming like 6 gauge, etc, etc.

It was wired with 12, though based off the work, might have been just what they had. Was run into the mag starter, pressure switch and breaker panel without any clamps or bushings. Coil of wire was left on the pump and it melted at some point.
 
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Sumboodie

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I have it on a pallet I made out of maybe $40 of 2x4s.
I'll probably screw the pallet to the floor and add an earthquake strap to the tank.
 
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Sumboodie

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I mostly did that so I can move it with forklift or pallet jack. There's no easy way to sling it, it's oddly balanced.

My old compressor a 3hp 60 gallon I could bear hug and mostly carry but this one is quite a but larger and much heavier. I'd guess 500lb area.
 
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