Normally I don't either, I've already sent back stuff because I received something that was Chinese made. I'll keep the 8mm though, only because I'll likely end up losing it anyway.I don't want anything to do with Sunex these days and I hesitate to order anything from them because I don't know what I'm actually going to get in return. I really don't like that and I don't think it's fair to the customers either.
They are different tools, depending on COO.




Thanks! Same one, I had to hunt for the tip in the box. Found the second tip for the last word as well. Found most of the attachments including a nice Starrett swivel post.You are so far past **** you blow! I hope that is the same Interapid indicator in 2 different pics!
All of these + were included in a pair of boxes I bought over the weekend. Basically free since the boxes only came to $60.
Steve
I’d like too but I don’t want to be that guy cross posting all over. Figured this could go into this thread, vintage toolbox, Kennedy … ect. I try to pick one and be done..lol.You should post this haul over here:
2025 Garage Sale Thread (14th Annual)
Happy New Year! Or as I prefer to say... It's the end of the world as we know it... and I feel FINE!!! Now that I have the obligatory pop culture reference out of the way (late '80s REM song, in case you were wondering)... Welcome to the 14th annual edition of the Garage Journal Garage Sale...www.garagejournal.com
Mike
$40 on Amazon.. Price is crazy right now. A month ago it was $12How / where did you buy that? The link appears to be for the manufacturer, to wholesalers?
Mike
$40 on Amazon.. Price is crazy right now. A month ago it was $12
Amazon.com: Advent Vice Versa 5m x 25mm Metric Tape Measure Dual Printed Blade - ATM4-5025VV : Tools & Home Improvement
Buy Advent Vice Versa 5m x 25mm Metric Tape Measure Dual Printed Blade - ATM4-5025VV: Tape Measures - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
Is that Euros or something else ?Wiha extra-long bit holder:
Polish-made for €12.95 in my local Hornbach? Yes please!
Total length 410 mm, shank length from handle to tip 303 mm, hex bar across flats 6.0 mm.
Initially bought to rebuild a tyre pump, but I often encounter situations where this will be handy. It’s true that removeable bits aren’t ideal in a deep recess for which a long shank is useful, but it’s also true that I can’t afford (money, space) a bunch of extremely long screwdrivers. So this compromise will do for me.
OK, so here's the story...
I got into the rocket hobby in the early 80s, through a friend from Boy Scouts, whose dad (also our Scoutmaster) got him going. Back before the internet (and before I had a driver's license), our access to rockets was primarily through mail-order catalogs, at least for the model kits. I could buy engines at a mall toy store (K-B Toys, IIRC), but they had an extremely limited assortment of rocket models.
Anyway, I was always a rule-follower (my friend and I both became Eagle Scouts at the same time, within a year or two after this episode), and somewhere along the line, I learned that I needed a permit (maybe just to buy engines without an adult?) in RI.
The permit process went through my town's Fire Department. On the application, I had to list specifically where I planned to fly the rockets. Pretty much any park in town was OK, plus the fields at local schools. In reality, only a handful were big enough, without being surrounded by forests, to be able to fly and actually RECOVER a rocket.
So, with permit in my wallet, and maybe a year's worth of buying, building and flying without issues or complaints, I decided that my next science project would involve model rockets. Created a few different fin designs, used the same body, nose cones, engines, etc. and tried to differentiate which was the better fin design...
Got all of the rockets built, and carried all of the stuff to the local high school on our bikes. Not OUR high school, mind you, as we went to a private high school further away, in the next city over (beyond reasonable biking distance, especially given the hill involved, while carrying a ton of rocket-launching gear).
Wearing our "visitor" school jackets, we stuck out like two sore thumbs, running up and down the athletic fields, launching and chasing my rockets.
After around 45 minutes of this, we hear someone yelling at us from the other side of the chain link fence near the street. Turned out to be a police officer.
Assuming he was questioning our rocket-launching-approval status, I pulled the permit out of my wallet and gave it to him. He stared at it, but couldn't make any sense of it.
He had us climb over the fence, get into the back of the squad car, and started asking us all sorts of ID questions. We were probably around 14-15 at the time, so we didn't have any IDs, other than school IDs (maybe).
After sitting there for 20-30 minutes, he let us go.
Apparently, someone had broken into the computer lab at the high school we were visiting, setting off an alarm that called the police; and when he pulled up, he saw two yahoos running away from the building (us idiots, blissfully unaware of what was happening, just chasing a rocket)...
To this day, I don't think that permit was worth the paper it was written on.
Mike




Euros. I’m in the Netherlands. €13 is about $15 I suppose.Is that Euros or something else ?
In US Dollars ?
Even better!Nice! Coincidently, I also picked one up, arrived a couple of days ago... ~$8 and some change on Amazon.
Could be, regarding the colours. I’m happy with a CoO of any free democracy these days. Poland has manufacturing heritage too, of course.Mine is red instead of yellow, and stamped "Made in Germany". i wonder if the yellow on yours is what denotes the non German COO?
Super nice tool for eight bucks!
Best of luck with that!....
Could be, regarding the colours. I’m happy with a CoO of any free democracy these days. Poland has manufacturing heritage too, of course.
Does the flat on the handle opposite your embossed MADE IN GERMANY have a number perchance? Mine says 24, which might just be a mould part number but could equally be the year of manufacture.
I had this same tool and unfortunately did not last long. I have a large property and a lot of weeds. The motor did not last and burned up. Now it sits in the garage, broken in the closet.................Been slowly converting my smaller outdoor equipment into electric, never the large chainsaw, but my less used stuff like leaf blowers, string trimmers, and edgers- YES!
My older Husquvana 2 stroke has done my well, but because they used less and they sit around a lot. This just made more sense and I know my shoulder will thank me later.
And since all my garage stuff is already on the Dewalt 20 volt platform, this is just making more and more sense as of late.
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I think a lot of us post frequently in both. My rationale … new tool purchases in this thread, new to me, but well-loved in the Garage Sale thread.I’d like too but I don’t want to be that guy cross posting all over. Figured this could go into this thread, vintage toolbox, Kennedy … ect. I try to pick one and be done..lol.
Steve
I think in Japan the standard line voltage is 100V AC rms @ 50 Hz or at 60 Hz. The 50 Hz case is in roughly half of the country, and 60 Hz in the other half. The segregation exists for historical reasons. For high power applications the higher usa line voltage standard of 120 V AC rms @ 60 Hz can make a difference. Heating elements etc will be significantly stronger Power = V^2/R where R is the resistance of the element. So for the same R, the power will be (120/100)^2 = 1.44 times larger. This can cause high power systems (example: an electric heating element in a cooking appliance or hair dryer) to go out of design power range. So care is needed when you use small appliances and equipment from Japan to the USA. For electric motors, the 50 Hz standard in Japan (if designed for that) can result, depending on specifics of the motor design, lower rpm speeds that may impact applications.Japan uses 100v and 200v electrical systems in different parts of the country.
Some people think a transformer to change the voltage is necessary to use the Japanese spec units.
My guess, is that Makita probably uses wire and insulation that can handle 120v current just fine, and that the only difference will be slight differences in the output speed.
At least that is my understanding.
See my post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-tool-arrivals.103272/page-1870#post-11228936I had this same tool and unfortunately did not last long. I have a large property and a lot of weeds. The motor did not last and burned up. Now it sits in the garage, broken in the closet.................
I hope you have better luck.
Too late my friend, too late.@NUTTSGT soon as I saw the new trays... I knew where the story would go.
Seek help my son... Seek help. Or discount codes or coupons.... Either will help.
Wiha extra-long bit holder:
Polish-made for €12.95 in my local Hornbach? Yes please!
Total length 410 mm, shank length from handle to tip 303 mm, hex bar across flats 6.0 mm.
Initially bought to rebuild a tyre pump, but I often encounter situations where this will be handy. It’s true that removeable bits aren’t ideal in a deep recess for which a long shank is useful, but it’s also true that I can’t afford (money, space) a bunch of extremely long screwdrivers. So this compromise will do for me.
I've never tried those particular solutions before... i'll keep that in mind the next time a similar need arises.I've superglued bits in when I was worried they were going to come off. Usually, a good tug and twist with a pair of pliers gets it out, but a little heat or brake cleaner (mostly acetone) works too. I've also superglued screws to the bit (and washers to nuts, and ...) for similar reasons.
I've never tried
I've never tried those particular solutions before... i'll keep that in mind the next time a similar need arises.