casmurbax
Well-known member
as always nice work....
The garage loft.... where you not feeling wel that day, I do not see any crown molding?
The garage loft.... where you not feeling wel that day, I do not see any crown molding?
Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Jar944's 3car cabinet shop.
- Thread starter jar944
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
Give him time, he does have a moulder!
The garage loft pics are from @Boostingaz, but I do have a moulder or 3.
Working on layout for the deck stairs/landing. I don't want to dig and pour the stair bottom footer until I verify my measurements.
jollygreengiant
Well-known member
They could be ledger locks.
Attached solves some problems of free standing decks, but certainly makes water mitigation way more difficult.
Well that's better than screws, but still seems a bit light for how many of them I saw in those pics. Pics don't show everything though.
The garage loft pics are from @Boostingaz, but I do have a moulder or 3.
Working on layout for the deck stairs/landing. I don't want to dig and pour the stair bottom footer until I verify my measurements.
That's a slick way of using your square to lay out stairs, I'll have to remember that.
larry4406
Well-known member
They make brass stair gauges that clamp on the square for this purpose. Orange box store $8. But I agree the clamp method he employed is cleaver and no new purchase.Well that's better than screws, but still seems a bit light for how many of them I saw in those pics. Pics don't show everything though.
That's a slick way of using your square to lay out stairs, I'll have to remember that.
Well that's better than screws, but still seems a bit light for how many of them I saw in those pics. Pics don't show everything though.
That's a slick way of using your square to lay out stairs, I'll have to remember that.
Spacing is called out based on joist span and live load. Local code requires a double (top/bottom) at the start and end of thr ledger.
Yeah the 2 clamps and board is the quick way, the buttons are better because they bridge any edge issues (which is why there is also a block plane in the picture.)
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Last couple sets of stairs I built I just marked the rise and run dimensions on my framing square with a Sharpie and moved it along the edge to mark the cut lines. . (Couldn't find my stair buttons...)
Boostingaz
Well-known member
We had one of these grills and loved it. I was very happy with the quality, how it performed etc etc. they had a store in Phoenix so I went in and looked everything over really good before making any purchases and then ended up spending several thousand with them between doors etc for our built in BBQ bar.
Here is their griddle: https://www.bbqislandinc.com/produc...s-griddle-propane?_pos=1&_fid=09c5eda90&_ss=c
Our build:
Here is their griddle: https://www.bbqislandinc.com/produc...s-griddle-propane?_pos=1&_fid=09c5eda90&_ss=c
Our build:
casmurbax
Well-known member
How is the stairway to heaven coming along?
Seems like EVERYTHING costs more.
Seems like EVERYTHING costs more.
casmurbax
Well-known member
Wtf
Any idea what it should have been for?
Any idea what it should have been for?
The furnace intake is about 3' to the right so I assume it was a incorrect placement and a odd order of operations.
Unrelated but I managed to kill a reasonably large paper wasp nest with a flip flop. I'd guess 50 or so wasps in the nest (under a deck chair cover. ) 47 degree morning was the key there
casmurbax
Well-known member
Assuming that there will be more most hangers used.
Grouted in a couple pavers to get 2" of height. Not what I wanted but should work for a landing.
And while the cement was drying.
Also realized how bad my grill was so ripped it out and grabbed a larger, but smaller replacement. Still need to find a flat top for the other side.
I'm thinking of extending the grill area to the landing, and moving the smoker 90 degrees to the landing and adding a sink where the smoker was.
And while the cement was drying.
Also realized how bad my grill was so ripped it out and grabbed a larger, but smaller replacement. Still need to find a flat top for the other side.
I'm thinking of extending the grill area to the landing, and moving the smoker 90 degrees to the landing and adding a sink where the smoker was.
casmurbax
Well-known member
Thank you for indulging me with the answers to my questions.
Are the pavers sitting higher then patio blocks or you needed the 2 inches of thickness for the anchor bolts?
What was that pipe you cut out?
Are the pavers sitting higher then patio blocks or you needed the 2 inches of thickness for the anchor bolts?
What was that pipe you cut out?
The footings were flush to the stone base under the pavers. I didn't want the simpson brackets down in a hole. The pavers are flush to the stone.
The pipe is a waste line cleanout that should have been cut when the patio went in years ago. I just cut lower and added a new cleanout lower. It's still accessible if needed.
larry4406
Well-known member
Nice work!
+1 on the outdoor sink if you can make that work at the BBQ space.
+1 on the outdoor sink if you can make that work at the BBQ space.
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great work!
jollygreengiant
Well-known member
That's going to be a stout stair landing when you're done.
I came across these machines on an auction site. Way too big for me, but maybe big enough for you?
I came across these machines on an auction site. Way too big for me, but maybe big enough for you?
That's going to be a stout stair landing when you're done.
I came across these machines on an auction site. Way too big for me, but maybe big enough for you?
The bandsaw and specifically the planer/thicknesser would be nice to have.
575v motors add a layer of complexity.
That's going to be a stout stair landing when you're done.
Code requirement is a 10" square 12" deep, which frankly makes no sense. Sitting directly on the stone would be effectively do the same, and frost heave like a 12" deep footing would.
Frost line is only 24" here so I decided to hopefully keep it all from heaving.
larry4406
Well-known member
We don't do our deck stair footing/landing like that at the day job.
Instead we have posts on piers and the bottom riser acts as ledger to receive the stringers. These are work in progress pictures from different houses and all I have.
We don't do our deck stair footing/landing like that at the day job.
Instead we have posts on piers and the bottom riser acts as ledger to receive the stringers. These are work in progress pictures from different houses and all I have.
Yeah I remember you posted something similar when I was trying to decide how I was going to do the lower footing back when I built the deck.
I considered doing something similar, but didn't want any posts in the ground and the inside stringer already lands on the retaining wall.
I still think the code is wrong as for lowering bearing
larry4406
Well-known member
Yeah I am not a fan of posts in the ground either, but the deep footing shown in your figure requires that grade be dead nuts prior to building the stair or you result in a riser height error at the bottom. Your case is absolutely ideal (rare) in that you have hardscape to land on and can determine stair cut accordingly.Yeah I remember you posted something similar when I was trying to decide how I was going to do the lower footing back when I built the deck.
I considered doing something similar, but didn't want any posts in the ground and the inside stringer already lands on the retaining wall.
I still think the code is wrong as for lowering bearing
The post method allows the grade to be tweaked to achieve proper rise height after the stair is complete. In a production environment, this winds up being the deciding factor knowing there are trade off's.
How big of imperfections do you use the glazing/spot putty? If there's something larger than what you use it for, how do you fill it? I don't typically paint my projects so I typically would use epoxy or CA glue depending on the size.Thanks.
As for finishing its relatively straightforward.
Everything gets sanded to 150 and all corners broken. Any obvious imperfections/holes/issues het filled with bondo glazing/spot putty.
Spray primer, fill and imperfections, sand, spot prime any filled areas, sand again. 180-220g in these steps
Wipe down/blow off and spray the 1st color coat. Knock down any nibs, spray 2nd color coat, if it's getting a 3rd coat repeat..
casmurbax
Well-known member
Where did you get that cool tool, what is it called? A sidewalk lifter upper thingamajig
That actually is a pretty smart way to lift that slab up.
That actually is a pretty smart way to lift that slab up.
casmurbax
Well-known member
I was being a smart ***..... but again thank you for answering me.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I wish I had that skillset...
Some would say you got "half" of that covered! But not me.....I wish I had that skillset...
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sorry....I was being cheeky..