t&g ceiling - **** joints

[Boostingaz]

Thank you!

Herringbone corners much easier than I thought they would be. vI had a 1/4" slot cutting router but with ball bearing guide. Was quick to set depth on a piece of t&g. Adds a step but only a minute or two.

That looks great! I think that is a better solution that a solid miter seam. That is going to look really good all finished. Nice work.

 

[Firebrick43]

I won't disagree with the splice, but a lot of sources specifically say joints not on joists. They want them to float. The end matched I put in a room, the manufacturer was very clear not to joint on joists.

I look out the window at what I've installed for far and can't see **** joints. If I stand under it and look up I can find them. Like a strip wood floor, there are joints.

How would a professional make the mitre joints look their best?

Lay a board down the whole corner of the 45, centered where the boards would meet with a tongue milled into each side.

On the ends of the boards route a groove using a miter coping sled on the router table.

Or do a simple lap joint with the board laid on a 45 with its lap on the bottom and the boards butting into it on top.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Thank you!

Herringbone corners much easier than I thought they would be. vI had a 1/4" slot cutting router but with ball bearing guide. Was quick to set depth on a piece of t&g. Adds a step but only a minute or two.

Looks really nice, good work!

 

[billconner]

Looks really nice, good work!

Thank you and others for compliments and advice. We're pleased. To many irregularities in the original porch so will be adding a simple cornice. Thinking of shoe mold, pre finished.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Thank you and others for compliments and advice. We're pleased. To many irregularities in the original porch so will be adding a simple cornice. Thinking of shoe mold, pre finished.

I did something similar on my porch although I used a small cove molding, it provides a nice finishing touch. The big box store or lumber yard will have a variety of different moldings to choose from.

 

[billconner]

Close. Rain may delay me from ripping last board - usually setting up table saw on patio.

Planning on - bought and varnished already - using 3/4 x 1/2 shoe mold as cornice. 18 gauge brads ok?

I know for a floor nail shoe to base board. Think I should nail it to azek trim here, and not ceiling?

 

[mike93lx]

That looks fantastic

 

[billconner]

That looks fantastic

Thank you. It looks better on a sunny day, in particular from inside. Never realized how much a porch ceiling can do for living room.

Lots of help from GJ. All azek trim. Real pine t&g - prefinished - and the heringbone corners.

A real top down project other than deck and posts. Roof, trim and headers, ceiling. Next is railing and floor - primarily trying to remove peeling paint from the pre-existing floor Hope to put on a sealer - probably with a color but transparent. Then the skirt.

 

[Codyboy]

Looks really nice.
Idk and not a trim carpenter, but for something overhead , especially outside , I think i would use finish nails instead of brad nails.
Now if all i had was a Brad nailer I would use it.
But I have both and would go with finish.

 

[manwithtools]

Shoe mold weighs nothing, 18ga should be just fine. Stainless of course is best.

 

[billconner]

Looks really nice.
Idk and not a trim carpenter, but for something overhead , especially outside , I think i would use finish nails instead of brad nails.
Now if all i had was a Brad nailer I would use it.
But I have both and would go with finish.

Interesting. I have more pneumatic nailers than a non-pro in their right mind should have. I have a 15 gauge finish nailer (and a ridiculous supply of SS finish nails) and an 18 gauge brad nailer. I was actually thinking something smaller but brads don't show in house so fine. Up to 2 1/2". And brad nailer is much lighter weight. Not sure brads aren't fine but will think about finish. Thanks for the challenge.

 

[billconner]

On stainless, out doors, seems perfect but on my porch stairs - 2 houses now - they naturally back out. Several times a year I get a hammer and reset many of the SS finish nails. Just a consideration.

 

[billconner]

Almost all up high. Lights, but need a 4 1/4" hole saw. Of course I have 4 1/2 and 4, and local supply only has Diablo and all mine and mandrel are Milwaukee.

Railings - undecided on design - and skirt. Some floor "refurbishment" for existing. Paint columns (and railings depending).

Getting cold. Snow not too many miles away. Some things - skirt and floor - may have to wait till spring.

 

[mike93lx]

Almost all up high. Lights, but need a 4 1/4" hole saw. Of course I have 4 1/2 and 4, and local supply only has Diablo and all mine and mandrel are Milwaukee.

Railings - undecided on design - and skirt. Some floor "refurbishment" for existing. Paint columns (and railings depending).

Getting cold. Snow not too many miles away. Some things - skirt and floor - may have to wait till spring.

Try the 4" in some scrap. Might have enough play to work.

 

[billconner]

Try the 4" in some scrap. Might have enough play to work.

I thought about that. Either 4 or 4 1/2. The part that recesses is a 32nd or 16th over 4. Flange is 5". There are 9 of them.

Since both holes saws had been used in drywall, I was not confident they'd be great for now on pine, so bought a new 4 1/4".

I'll see how it goes tomorrow....