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Lets see your vintage shop work lights

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Far NE Oregon
Here's where I am for tonight:

54431569308_576cac1634_b.jpg

Masking could have been better.

54431569313_2f793a7d82_b.jpg

Woodward 1-2A. The head casting really puts the crude in crude. Sharp flashings except for where the sharp flashings have been ground off with a 5 grit wheel.

54431695875_f315f2d572_b.jpg

54430466737_c2e21424c1_b.jpg

Turns out, the lamp base and switch are for a three-way bulb. I wonder... yep, they make 3-way LED bulbs!
 
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rustyzman

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Chicagoland
Here's where I am for tonight:

54431569308_576cac1634_b.jpg

Masking could have been better.

54431569313_2f793a7d82_b.jpg

Woodward 1-2A. The head casting really puts the crude in crude. Sharp flashings except for where the sharp flashings have been ground off with a 5 grit wheel.

54431695875_f315f2d572_b.jpg

54430466737_c2e21424c1_b.jpg

Turns out, the lamp base and switch are for a three-way bulb. I wonder... yep, they make 3-way LED bulbs!
Peruse here for fun. Lots of possibilities...
 

Beerhippie

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Done:

54432946533_8d35dc5011_b.jpg

Detail of the base:

54432946538_00b5f8d211_b.jpg

Gettin' things done out here can be a challenge. I had to go to three hardware stores to get the parts I needed: 3-way Daylight (5,000K, 30, 70, 100 Watt eq.) LED bulb, 2 x 1/2" street ells, 1/2" floor flange, 1/2" NPT X 1/2" EMT watertight fitting, thumbscrew, paint and cord. I'd rather have had a proper lamp cord--and black--but this is Wallowa county, so I ended up cutting the end off a 6' 16 AWG extension cord. I settled for the hammered black paint, as again, that was what I could find.

Now to figure out where it will live on the bench....
 

Beerhippie

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Shoot--looking at the photo:

54433031798_154afb9455_b-jpg.2308076


I see I'm needin' to fix the kiosk sink rim seal before we open the kiosk for the summer....
 

Beerhippie

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Another veteran brought back:

As found:

54433171110_cf76c0b33b_b.jpg

54431939007_2103584e61_b.jpg

Photogenic Speedlight AA13. This was a studio high-output xenon "barndoor" flood strobe with modeling light. The "bulb" is a diffuser with a large, coiled Xenon tube and an auto taillight bulb in the center of the coil for the modeling light. The modeling light would allow the photog to assess the lighting before using any film. Someone, obviously, chopped the cord that would have to gone to the large and heavy control/power box--which I don't have. $15 at a local junk store.

The "bulb" and base:

54434618815_886230b52b_b.jpg

Why the cord was chopped:

54434442089_8c18645a58_b.jpg

All the insulation was colorful dust inside the head unit. Fifteen minutes at most would have restored it to function.

Now, I could restore it to the original use--for about what a brand-new studio strobe costs. Just not happening.

I spent most of the morning--while doing the week's laundry--fiddling around with fitting a modern bulb base and a twenty-five-foot cord.

54434936624_188dd26559_b.jpg

New Leviton bulb base and 150 Watt -equivalent Daylight (5,000K) LED bulb. I chose the pull-chain as I was intending to use this as an overhead shop light.

54434936619_dbf2eda120_b.jpg

In an ideal world, that dark area at the base of the reflector wouldn't be there. I don't live in that world, so I'll live with it--the shadow is an artifact of the design of the LED bulb.

54435114900_3281bfd8a3_b.jpg

After seeing the light output and distribution, I decided I can use this for my photography set-up. I just ordered a light stand for it. It doesn't use the modern Bowens standard for lighting mounts, but the mount is smaller than the Bowens, so I can just reduce the dia. of the Bowens to work.
 
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Beerhippie

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Now to test the Photogenic against my new Godox SL60IID for color balance--this is the kind of thing old photogs do. I put the 8" reflector on the Godox to make a fairly fair comparison. The Photogenic has a 16" reflector--not much I can do about that.

The test is the shadow test--a piece of white paper with an object that casts a nice. clean shadow. All I have is common printer paper, so that's what I'll use.

First rendition:

54435555060_9c0d39ab0b_b.jpg

It's hard to tell what's going on, color-wise. The Godox is to the right and the Photogenic to the left, so the shadow to the right is lit only (or mostly) by the Godox and that to the left by the Photogenic.

Now I'll do a quick Photoshop trick and balance the light color for each shadow.

Lit by the Godox only:

54435555055_c712d3760a_b.jpg

Photogenic only:

54435376184_2bbe97e039_b.jpg

Not perfect, but, actually, good enough for Gummint work. I can live with that little difference. What I didn't want to see is a glaring difference in the color of the shadows in a pub food picture--or any other.

You can sure see the difference between a 16" and 8" reflector, 'though!
 

Beerhippie

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Well, re-evaluating those shadow test pics, I can't live with that. Not only is it not the same light temperature, but the household LED bulb has pretty poor CRI.

I just ordered a $50 made-for-photography, 5,600K, 96% CRI bulb for it that should match my other light just to tee.

712MFNcS-3L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

fishwatcher

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Jan 26, 2023
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@Beerhippie nice light! I have the same, put in LED tubes and they work great. No mod for mine (no dimmer either though).

@Nutria see my post on the LED tubes I got.

Picture as of today, it still works well!IMG_9754.jpeg
I picked up another Dazor today for my work desk. It’s in great condition. I scrubbed off some grime, touched up the paint, polished the rusty screws and replaced one of the fluorescent tubes with a GE Color Select LED tube. The silver paint matched my Toyo toolbox nicely.

I’ll pick up a second GE LED tube, but for now it is running one LED and one old fluorescent tube. The LED is way brighter but the lamp doesn’t seem to care that I have two different tubes in it.

No change to any wiring or the ballast.IMG_3123.jpegIMG_3124.jpegIMG_3127.jpeg
 
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Bert_

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NW Iowa
I picked up several lights a while back. I checked and they all work but otherwise they are still sitting on the floor in my basement.

One is preheat from the 1940's. Several from the 50's. think a one or two are 60's or 70's.

I'm starting to run out of places to put these fixtures. Going to have to work on that.
KIMG3308.JPG
 

fishwatcher

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I picked up another Dazor today for my work desk. It’s in great condition. I scrubbed off some grime, touched up the paint, polished the rusty screws and replaced one of the fluorescent tubes with a GE Color Select LED tube. The silver paint matched my Toyo toolbox nicely.

I’ll pick up a second GE LED tube, but for now it is running one LED and one old fluorescent tube. The LED is way brighter but the lamp doesn’t seem to care that I have two different tubes in it.

No change to any wiring or the ballast.IMG_3123.jpegIMG_3124.jpegIMG_3127.jpeg
Second LED tube added. I’m just so happy about this light. It’s bright, clean and classic looking.IMG_3159.jpegMy desk has been a mess for a couple of years. This is the cleanest it’s been.IMG_3160.jpeg I know this isn’t a light in my work shop.. but it did allow me to move my Flexo into the garage to join my other Dazor.IMG_3162.jpeg
 

fishwatcher

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One of the lock ring nuts that go around the power button collar (all made up terms) on my Dazor is missing.

Where can I find a pair of replacements (so that the new ones match)? IMG_3474.jpegIMG_3475.jpeg
 

fishwatcher

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Dazor sells parts still. A little retaining ring like that shouldn't run you more than about thirty bucks, +. ;)
Thx.

I already wrote to them and am waiting for an answer. They sell the two button switch for $46.

I can take this little lock ring to a hardware store and try my luck.. but just wondered if anybody here would have leads on what it’s called or where to find one.

If anybody has a dead Dazor and wants to send me their rings.. that would be cool too!

Thx
 

Bert_

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Thx.

I already wrote to them and am waiting for an answer. They sell the two button switch for $46.

I can take this little lock ring to a hardware store and try my luck.. but just wondered if anybody here would have leads on what it’s called or where to find one.

If anybody has a dead Dazor and wants to send me their rings.. that would be cool too!

Thx
Probably the same locknut as a toggle switch.
 

rustyzman

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Chicagoland
One of the lock ring nuts that go around the power button collar (all made up terms) on my Dazor is missing.

Where can I find a pair of replacements (so that the new ones match)? IMG_3474.jpegIMG_3475.jpeg
Try Mcmaster Carr.
You'll have to measure it, but they do sell some.

 
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RTM

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One of the lock ring nuts that go around the power button collar (all made up terms) on my Dazor is missing.

Where can I find a pair of replacements (so that the new ones match)?
My Ace sells them loose, in chrome looking finish. Not sure they match your size. Take your good one down, see if it screws on a switch, then find a pair to match.
 

fishwatcher

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My Ace sells them loose, in chrome looking finish. Not sure they match your size. Take your good one down, see if it screws on a switch, then find a pair to match.
Chrome would look great on my silver lamp.

Thanks everyone.
 

fishwatcher

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My Ace sells them loose, in chrome looking finish. Not sure they match your size. Take your good one down, see if it screws on a switch, then find a pair to match.
I went to Ace and they had packs of assorted ring nuts in the lamp section. None looked like they would fit.

Outdoor Supply Hardware had chrome ones in a 15/32 size that fit. These are thicker than the stock Dazor rings.. and make the switch look a little clunkier, but will do for now.

IMG_3545.jpeg

On Amazon I found toggle switch nuts that are supposed to fit on Les Paul guitar tone switches.. but looked at what I have on my LP clone and it’s way bigger than what’s on a Dazor.
IMG_3553.png
 

tym

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MA
One of the lock ring nuts that go around the power button collar (all made up terms) on my Dazor is missing.

Where can I find a pair of replacements (so that the new ones match)? IMG_3474.jpegIMG_3475.jpeg
I haven't been able to source these from Dazor. The same knurled nut was used on vintage toggle switches and the like.

I *was* able to find close substitutes at Digi-Key. They are chromed and a hair thicker, but fit just fine. I bought a bunch of them, so happy to send you a couple if needed.

EDIT: Looks like you found the same Switchcraft nuts.
 

fishwatcher

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I haven't been able to source these from Dazor. The same knurled nut was used on vintage toggle switches and the like.

I *was* able to find close substitutes at Digi-Key. They are chromed and a hair thicker, but fit just fine. I bought a bunch of them, so happy to send you a couple if needed.

EDIT: Looks like you found the same Switchcraft nuts.
Thank you for offering! Indeed, I found a pair of chrome nuts at OSH. They are also a little thicker than stock, but work fine and look good.
 

Outlawmws

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I have two resurrected one, in Redwood City, and Millbrae. RWC is a bit nicer.
How do they compare to the old Pre Sears OSH? None have reopened close enough to me to be useful. Are they independent, or are they tied to something like ACE?
 

RTM

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seem to be independent. While I was in PDX a few months back, and during prior visits, they seem to be very similar to a small chain called Parkrose Hardware (similar merchandise, layout, etc)
 

fishwatcher

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I have two resurrected one, in Redwood City, and Millbrae. RWC is a bit nicer.
The closest one to me is in Sunnyvale, CA. It’s an Outdoor Supply Hardware. It looks a lot like the old OSH I remember growing up, but modernized.
 
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FullRaceMerc

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How do they compare to the old Pre Sears OSH? None have reopened close enough to me to be useful. Are they independent, or are they tied to something like ACE?
Aces are actually independant franchises, who buy as a large group. They like to look like corporate stores, but each has its own owner who makes the call as to what they carry. It's why stock can vary so much store to store. Some (South Pasadena here) of them take on the old hardware mindset of having everything, & others (The now defunct Pasadena Ace) carry very little of what a hardware store should.
 

genog

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How do they compare to the old Pre Sears OSH?
Nothing around here today compares to the old Orchard Supply Hardware stores......and probably never will

It seems that it is not profitable to sell hardware anymore
Real hardware
There's not enough money in selling nuts and bolts, fasteners, fittings, switches, etc
Outdoor Supply and even our local Ace would rather sell you lawn furniture and candy bars while you stand in line

I went to the closest Ace Hardware the other day looking for some 2" Grade 5 bolts, 1/2-20.
They didn't have any bolts in fine thread....
The closest that I found in those Bins, or whatever they're called, was a Cap Screw for $3.89 :ROFLMAO:
One cap screw....

Going back to Outdoor Supply.......it's a very poor imitation of the old Orchard Supply
In my few visits, the people working there did not know basic things about the stuff in their departments
The managers know even less
I am not exaggerating
:ROFLMAO:
 
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Beerhippie

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Same here. We have two "hardware" stores in town--ACE and True Value (how's that for a demonstration of why English is hard to learn?). True Value sell mostly woman's (another example) western wear and the ACE sells paint. Even the selection of rattle-cans at ACE gets more pathetic week by week.

We once had four hardware stores here. Two of them were old-timey ma and pop stores with everything you'd need. One had a huge basement full of aisles of oaken cabinets with drawers full of fasteners, hinges, etc. You could wander down there all day. Search and Rescue had to be activated for a few folks who wandered too far.

We had a lumber yard where you could buy everything you needed to build a house, from the foundations to the roofing and trim.

We even had a men's wear store that sold western wear and real work clothes. Now I can't even find a pair of Carhartt bibs anywhere in the county.
 
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genog

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Sometimes saving vintage shop lights just isn’t worth it. I took these down yesterday and installed some inexpensive LED 4‘ shop lights....
Those shop lights have so much patina they look kinda cool....
I would have converted them to LED

I converted all of mine....easy to do and I preserved "the look" of my shop
Certainly don't want my shop to look too Modern :LOL:
 

Bert_

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Sometimes saving vintage shop lights just isn’t worth it. I took these down yesterday and installed some inexpensive LED 4‘ shop lights. The ones that worked at all were dim and flickering and they all just needed to go. IMG_5093.jpeg
-Don
That one with the ballast on top is old. Probably mid 1940's.

I have one like it with a fiberboard reflector. It was used to conserve steel during the war.

DO NOT THROW IT AWAY. It needs to go to a good home.
 

genog

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That one with the ballast on top is old. Probably mid 1940's.

I have one like it with a fiberboard reflector. It was used to conserve steel during the war.

DO NOT THROW IT AWAY. It needs to go to a good home.
I agree...
Please Don, do NOT throw it away

You can bypass the ballast, leave it in place so that it retains the "Look", (Gotta keep the ballast in place) and convert to LED
It's EZ-PZ
 
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d42jeep

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Geno, I would be happy to save them for you whenever you are up this way. They were already in the garage when we moved in. I tried converting some of the fixtures in the basement to LED and the new bulbs didn’t last long, which was an unpleasant surprise. Maybe you would like to take a tour of the basement if you stop by.
-Don
 
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