Smart Plug for Garage Door Motor

[tearapin]

I keep frying smart plugs (Kasa EP10 and Hs103's). They are said to be rated at 15 amps. My garage door motor draws 7 amps max but is frying them. The fried ones no longer actuate the power. I assume the contact switch or some other component is overheating and melting itself together.

I would like to cut the power to my garage door motor as an added security feature. Does anyone have a make and model they have used for a long time? My two did not last a month. Additionally the support from Kasa is a joke. I would not recommend them.

 

[kbuhagiar]

I would like to cut the power to my garage door motor as an added security feature. Does anyone have a make and model they have used for a long time? My two did not last a month. Additionally the support from Kasa is a joke. I would not recommend them.

I used two Wemos, one for each garage door operator, at my second home for seven years without fail, hundreds of on-off cycles. Same idea - increased security - and they worked like a charm. We sold the house last year and re-purposed the Wemos here at our full-time home.

Unfortunately Wemo no longer makes wifi controlled devices and is discontinuing support for all of their gizmos in February of 2026.

Can't figure out why you'd be having such problems with those plugs, is it possible that there is something wrong with the operator which is creating an unusually high current draw?

 

[LopezBart]

Use a opto22 (model 120A25 seems right) AC controlled solid state relay. You can drive it from a smart plug. You can also just use a regular relay rated for the power of the motor, but it will wear out eventually.

 

[Wrench97]

It's probably the start up current draw that's killing them.

 

[tearapin]

It's probably the start up current draw that's killing them.

I don't know. I did a google search and a bunch of posts came up that they are **** plugs. I just do not know what a good one is.

 

[tearapin]

I used two Wemos, one for each garage door operator, at my second home for seven years without fail, hundreds of on-off cycles. Same idea - increased security - and they worked like a charm. We sold the house last year and re-purposed the Wemos here at our full-time home.

Unfortunately Wemo no longer makes wifi controlled devices and is discontinuing support for all of their gizmos in February of 2026.

Can't figure out why you'd be having such problems with those plugs, is it possible that there is something wrong with the operator which is creating an unusually high current draw?

After about 15 minutes of google action it seems the brand is garbage. I just was hoping someone had a smart plug in operation for a long period and could steer me to it. I am sure a relay may work but my wiring skills are not that good.

 

[LukeOresk]

I’ve been using a Leviton smart switch to turn on my shops oil furnace for 2 years now.

Sounds like you just need to use a better brand of plug

 

[tearapin]

I’ve been using a Leviton smart switch to turn on my shops oil furnace for 2 years now.

Sounds like you just need to use a better brand of plug

Agree. Can you send a link or model number?

 

[dave*99]

I have a bunch of these installed at my house. They work well.
But I still prefer the Chamberlain My-Q app to control my garage doors

D215S-1RW​

This is said to run a 3/4 HP motor. I have used them on small window ACs

D215P-1RW​

 

[dave*99]

This thread may be of interest:

Remote Wifi Momentary switch for garage door

I am looking to control my garage door opener via a WIFI remote momentary contact switch. I know garage door companies make there but something like this is a bit more inexpensive. https://a.co/d/4um0HsP module What has me stumped is this. I would like to have this module located next to...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[rlitman]

I’ve been using a Leviton smart switch to turn on my shops oil furnace for 2 years now.

Sounds like you just need to use a better brand of plug

I've fried at least three of Leviton smart switches (currently down to 10 in use). They're less reliable for me than Sonoff (also fried 3 or 4, but have >30 in use right now). They pretty much all use the same componentry in the end.

Of the Leviton, two stopped responding on the WiFi end. I think their power supplies burned out, and one stopped turning the lights on. In that one, the relay contacts failed, but if you knocked on the switch with a screwdriver, you could sometimes get the lights to come on.

That one Leviton was the only one I've had a relay fail on, and it was just switching a few LED lights. All of the Sonoff (and numerous other brands I've used) failures were with the internal power supply (buck converter). They just go lights-out.

I keep frying smart plugs (Kasa EP10 and Hs103's). They are said to be rated at 15 amps. My garage door motor draws 7 amps max but is frying them. The fried ones no longer actuate the power. I assume the contact switch or some other component is overheating and melting itself together.

I would like to cut the power to my garage door motor as an added security feature. Does anyone have a make and model they have used for a long time? My two did not last a month. Additionally the support from Kasa is a joke. I would not recommend them.

How are they "frying"? You shouldn't get contact arcing (wear) if you're only switching the smart switch when the door motor isn't running. If you switch it off while the motor is running, that might arc a little bit, but otherwise, I don't see motor draw as the issue. Maybe you need a surge protector?

 

[rust in the eye]

It's probably the start up current draw that's killing them.

Or just a sh tea connection with the plug

 

[nh_yota]

Maybe something a little more heavy duty like a wireless contactor:

Wi-Fi Controlled Relay (120V) - Works with Amazon Alexa or Android and iOS free eWeLink app. Use Cell Phone, Tablet or Alexa to Control from Anywhere

Wi-Fi Controlled Relay - Works Amazon Alexa or Android and iOS free eWeLink app. Model: WIFI-RELAY-10A-120V Features VOICE CONTROL: This wireless switch works with Amazon Alexa and Google Home to manage your devices through Voice control REMOTE CONTROL: This wireless switch transmits data to a...

imagineindustrialcontrols.com

 

[tearapin]

They fry by not turning the power on and off. The indicator light still functions but the power always remains on no matter what.

Seemingly this should not be so hard to find...but it is proving to be difficult.

 

[rlitman]

They fry by not turning the power on and off. The indicator light still functions but the power always remains on no matter what.

Seemingly this should not be so hard to find...but it is proving to be difficult.

Weird. Well, post 13 shows a Sonoff smart switch controlling an external contactor. You could make that yourself with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Contactor-Universal-Circuit-Control/dp/B01EJ38RDA?tag=atomicindus08-20

and a box.

 

[minke]

for a read:

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/12/04/technology/personaltech/why-one-man-is-fighting-for-our-right-to-control-our-garage-door-openers.html

 

[dave*99]

for a read:

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/12/04/technology/personaltech/why-one-man-is-fighting-for-our-right-to-control-our-garage-door-openers.html

There is a paywall in front of that article.

 

[tearapin]

Weird. Well, post 13 shows a Sonoff smart switch controlling an external contactor. You could make that yourself with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Contactor-Universal-Circuit-Control/dp/B01EJ38RDA?tag=atomicindus08-20

and a box.

Having a bit of trouble picturing this is my head. So the circuit would go 120vac power >>> to the smart plug >>>> to the contactor >>> to the garage motor? I was searching but could not find a wiring diagram yet.

 

[minke]

Trying again:

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/12/04/technology/personaltech/why-one-man-is-fighting-for-our-right-to-control-our-garage-door-openers.html?unlocked_article_code=1.9E8.a4jN.ebnsk3vRVzZ-&smid=url-share

 

[dave*99]

Trying again:

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/12/04/technology/personaltech/why-one-man-is-fighting-for-our-right-to-control-our-garage-door-openers.html?unlocked_article_code=1.9E8.a4jN.ebnsk3vRVzZ-&smid=url-share

That works, thanks. I'm hoping NYT doesn't scold you for sharing publicly on the forum.

 

[minke]

That works, thanks. I'm hoping NYT doesn't scold you for sharing publicly on the forum.

I never tried it before but I can share 10 articles per month. As far as getting scolded,
that is between the Times and my very delicate ego.

Glad it worked.

 

[rlitman]

Having a bit of trouble picturing this is my head. So the circuit would go 120vac power >>> to the smart plug >>>> to the contactor >>> to the garage motor? I was searching but could not find a wiring diagram yet.

Almost. Box plugs into 120VAC line and splits the power. Both the smart switch AND the contactor get plugged into the line voltage, but the 120VAC output of the smart switch controls the coil of the contactor (A1 & A2 in what I linked), allowing the contactor to supply power to the load. Done this way, the only current that flows through the relay in the smart switch is the fraction of a watt that drives the contactor coil, and the load is switched by the contactor.

 

[tearapin]

Almost. Box plugs into 120VAC line and splits the power. Both the smart switch AND the contactor get plugged into the line voltage, but the 120VAC output of the smart switch controls the coil of the contactor (A1 & A2 in what I linked), allowing the contactor to supply power to the load. Done this way, the only current that flows through the relay in the smart switch is the fraction of a watt that drives the contactor coil, and the load is switched by the contactor.

ok thanks. Still searching for a pic. So I do not juice myself.

 

[BurtEggley]

wire a wall switch to it. Or do like we do, press the button on the control that locks out all wireless remote controls, and use the latching lever on the side of the garage door to physically lock it in the down position. We put tape over the remote to remind us to pull the latch before opening the door. We had a burglar hit the neighborhood. He got entry into some garages by prying them up and sliding under them. Not ours. Some burglars use the coat hook method to open closed doors, even if the power is off.

 

[tearapin]

Good Idea except I cannot trigger it from inside the car when I pull out.

 

[dave*99]

Good Idea except I cannot trigger it from inside the car when I pull out.

Have you removed the red handle and rope? I agree the common way to break into a garage is to snag the rope with a coat hanger and release the door.

Is your opener particularly susceptible to Radio Frequency hacks? Liftmaster claims the rolling code protections are strong -

I found this on the web:

"RF hacks" for LiftMaster garage door openers generally involve legal, do-it-yourself (DIY) modifications to integrate with smart home systems, extend remote range, or add new remotes/keypads. More advanced "hacking" with tools like the Flipper Zero is generally only effective on older, fixed-code systems; modern LiftMaster openers use secure, rolling codes (Security+ 2.0) that change with each use, making them difficult to clone or replay.

 

[rlitman]

... secure, rolling codes ... that change with each use, making them difficult to clone or replay.

Difficult, but far from impossible. Attacks have been demonstrated, and are used in the wild. Maybe not all too often, but they do exist.

A better alternative to killing GDO power while you're away (I flip off the breaker if I'm out of town), would be to deadbolt the door. There are electronic deadbolts that could do what is wanted here, and truly double up on your security.

 

[tearapin]

Difficult, but far from impossible. Attacks have been demonstrated, and are used in the wild. Maybe not all too often, but they do exist.

A better alternative to killing GDO power while you're away (I flip off the breaker if I'm out of town), would be to deadbolt the door. There are electronic deadbolts that could do what is wanted here, and truly double up on your security.

I thought about that but an electronic deadbolt is far more expensive than killing the power. I do have a manual one for out of town purposes but I am trying to alleviate getting out of the car when I back out a vehicle.

As I said earlier it is hard for me to fathom why a smart plug or outlet that does not incorporate heavy enough electronics to handle a GDO motor is not available.

 

[dave*99]

I thought about that but an electronic deadbolt is far more expensive than killing the power. I do have a manual one for out of town purposes but I am trying to alleviate getting out of the car when I back out a vehicle.

As I said earlier it is hard for me to fathom why a smart plug or outlet that does not incorporate heavy enough electronics to handle a GDO motor is not available.

See post #9 Smart plug is rated for 3/4 HP. Have you looked at the HP ratings of the failed units? Not amps, but HP?

 

[niget2002]

I have a stack of HS103's deployed without issue. I like that my automation can connect directly to IP so I don't have to go through the internet to control them.

I've had a few fail, but they've always failed within a few days of putting them into service. If they last longer than a few weeks, then I've had no issues with them.

I've also used the VeSync branded smart switches. Those have worked well. Everything has to go through their cloud service, though. I also don't know who makes these anymore.

Maybe something like this could work?

https://a.co/d/2Hc7Ais

 

[LopezBart]

See post #9 Smart plug is rated for 3/4 HP. Have you looked at the HP ratings of the failed units? Not amps, but HP?

To expand on this a bit for the OP, keep in mind that solid state components typically don't have large overload capacities, because they're typically thermally limited and quite lightweight. You can think of them as a fast-blow fuse - they heat up very quickly. Electric motors are often rated in full load amps - but their start-up current may be 2x or more times that value. The same problem arises when one attempts to use the amp rating of a motor to select a generator - the inrush current at startup is much larger than the full-load amps, and so a larger generator than one would expect is required.

 

[tearapin]

To expand on this a bit for the OP, keep in mind that solid state components typically don't have large overload capacities, because they're typically thermally limited and quite lightweight. You can think of them as a fast-blow fuse - they heat up very quickly. Electric motors are often rated in full load amps - but their start-up current may be 2x or more times that value. The same problem arises when one attempts to use the amp rating of a motor to select a generator - the inrush current at startup is much larger than the full-load amps, and so a larger generator than one would expect is required.

You explained it much more eloquently than I could. But yes, this is what I think I am dealing with. Of course getting an in rush spec from foreign based tech support is next to impossible.

 

[tearapin]

I have a stack of HS103's deployed without issue. I like that my automation can connect directly to IP so I don't have to go through the internet to control them.

I've had a few fail, but they've always failed within a few days of putting them into service. If they last longer than a few weeks, then I've had no issues with them.

I've also used the VeSync branded smart switches. Those have worked well. Everything has to go through their cloud service, though. I also don't know who makes these anymore.

Maybe something like this could work?

https://a.co/d/2Hc7Ais

Thank you for the link. That does look interesting. I think I amp just frying the switch contacts on startup of the HS103's They work fine for me on lamps and such. Just not the opener.

 

[LukeOresk]

D215S-2RW Leviton is the switch I use for my oil furnace. 3/4 hp rated, the furnace has a two motors and they total less than 3/4hp. I’ve never had an issue with it since install.​

​

The garage door opener is probably right around 1/4hp if I was guessing, and the plugs mentioned are rated at 1/6hp. So that’s what’s killing them​

 

[Denwood]

I use Aeotec appliance switches specifically as they use an internal relay and are rated for 15 amps. I also have their 240V 40A switch connected to our induction cooktop. It senses power use and allows me to ramp the exhaust fan with power use on the cooktop.

This is their newest version rated to 15A but it would require a compatable hub.

ZWA023 Aeotec ZWave Smart Switch 7 Plug In Smart Switch - Aartech Canada

Aeotec's smallest smart plug offers excellent safety and ultimate control. The ZWA023 Smart Switch 7 replaces the ZW110 Smart Switch 6. - Buy online at Aartech Canada with free shipping available

www.aartech.ca

As far as I know, the wall dimmer/switches are all restricted to 300 watt resistive loads (or less), so fine for LED etc. I use a few Zooz 72s to control PTC heaters, but these all run under 300 watts.

 

[tearapin]

D215S-2RW Leviton is the switch I use for my oil furnace. 3/4 hp rated, the furnace has a two motors and they total less than 3/4hp. I’ve never had an issue with it since install.​

​

The garage door opener is probably right around 1/4hp if I was guessing, and the plugs mentioned are rated at 1/6hp. So that’s what’s killing them​

Darn...that makes sense.

 

[Skooterj]

I keep frying smart plugs (Kasa EP10 and Hs103's). They are said to be rated at 15 amps. My garage door motor draws 7 amps max but is frying them. The fried ones no longer actuate the power. I assume the contact switch or some other component is overheating and melting itself together.

I would like to cut the power to my garage door motor as an added security feature. Does anyone have a make and model they have used for a long time? My two did not last a month. Additionally the support from Kasa is a joke. I would not recommend them.

So I went down this rabbit hole a few years ago. Every smart outlet I found said it was rated at 15 Amps, but once you got into the fine print, each actual plug in the duplex outlet was only rated at 10 Amps. And I fried one using my 7 Amp shop vac. I'm pretty sure the inrush current spikes at over 10 Amps. But it has been a couple years, so maybe someone makes something at a true 15 Amps. It looks like the Kasa KP200 is rated at a true 15 Amps and 1/2HP.

 

[dave*99]

So I went down this rabbit hole a few years ago. Every smart outlet I found said it was rated at 15 Amps, but once you got into the fine print, each actual plug in the duplex outlet was only rated at 10 Amps. And I fried one using my 7 Amp shop vac. I'm pretty sure the inrush current spikes at over 10 Amps. But it has been a couple years, so maybe someone makes something at a true 15 Amps. It looks like the Kasa KP200 is rated at a true 15 Amps and 1/2HP.

I suspect your shop vac will fry that KP200 too. Although one will never actually know the true HP of a shop vac given the wacky way they make claims about their HP.

 

[jblnut]

I have a vast number of Emporia Vue devices here and like them quite a bit. I have them on my garage door openers and haven’t had an issue yet. Plug them in between the opener and the outlet and away you go. I set a schedule for them so they won’t open unless ya hours we usually come and go. There is an app to open and a simple button to touch and the plug is turned on or off. If it’s on/off state is changed the schedule will override it and get it back to normal when the next change is called for in the schedule. Hope that makes sense.

I have them on openers that control my house doors (9x9) up to my shop doors (26x16) and they work great without something else in between.

 

[tearapin]

I have a vast number of Emporia Vue devices here and like them quite a bit. I have them on my garage door openers and haven’t had an issue yet. Plug them in between the opener and the outlet and away you go. I set a schedule for them so they won’t open unless ya hours we usually come and go. There is an app to open and a simple button to touch and the plug is turned on or off. If it’s on/off state is changed the schedule will override it and get it back to normal when the next change is called for in the schedule. Hope that makes sense.

I have them on openers that control my house doors (9x9) up to my shop doors (26x16) and they work great without something else in between.

Thank You. How long have you been using them for?