Would you consider this a professional overhead door installation?

[jblnut]

Now, fixing all this isn't that difficult. Replace the 18 inch panel with a 21 inch panel. Get a high lift kit for the tracks and really get them out of the way. Doing this to start with would have been cheaper, but that ship has sailed.

Just my opinion, but EVERY garage door should be ordered with a high lift kit. It adds very little to the upfront cost and gets the tracks and open door out of the way much more.

And pics are for sure needed.

A high lift track kit requires a side drive opener if I’m not mistaken correct ? I have a side drive/high lift track on the 16x12 in my shop and it takes quite a bit longer to open than the regular drive 26x16.

OP - I’ve had 13 garage doors installed here by the same place and have zero complaints over the last decade. Three guys did two complete 24x16 doors in a morning a few years back. Same team did both shop doors (16x12 and 26x16) in a little longer but they were done early afternoon. I have had them move doors, replace panels, replace openers and completely replace things in the past both here and at the last place we were at and their focus has always been along the lines of utilizing as much space in the opening as possible. A couple rehabs at a former place they actually recommended a custom door panel to gain a couple inches and I said do it. The big difference there wasn’t the panel, it was that they asked !!

I’d do as others have recommended and talk to the install company first and let them know you’re displeased. The track and shims don’t bug me as much as shrinking the door size for no given reason. See what they’ll do and if they won’t do anything you gotta decide if you want to spend more money or live with it.

 

[HF1]

We order and replace single panels at work all the time when they get damaged.

That's exactly what I figured, but wanted to make sure. Thank you.

 

[HF1]

If you go with the taller panel, does it shift the window above the trim?

Only remote excuse I can think of...

Thank you for reminding me to measure before calling, but "No". There are 5 inches between the top edge of the window and the bottom of the existing weatherstripping, which is a further inch+ below the opening's trim.

The installer did mention something about this, when, during the install, I noted the 3" gap between the assembled the door and the top of the opening. I was skeptical then, but the weatherstripping wasn't installed yet -- and, at that point, what was I going to do?

 

[PCustoms]

Thank you for reminding me to measure before calling, but "No". There are 5 inches between the top edge of the window and the bottom of the existing weatherstripping, which is a further inch+ below the opening's trim.

The installer did mention something about this, when, during the install, I noted the 3" gap between the assembled the door and the top of the opening. I was skeptical then, but the weatherstripping wasn't installed yet -- and, at that point, what was I going to do?

Got any pics showing the overall door, and then the gap at top/bottom?

 

[HF1]

I think 7' doors are short to begin with and have put 8' doors in when we built this place. I would be very unhappy with loosing a few more inches.

The door as-installed doesn't even clear the top of the opening, and remains about one inch lower than the top of the opening even when raised. That's going to be a major point when I reach someone on the phone.

Should be able to order a single panel. If the current company won't fix it or work with you I would be checking other local dealers for the same brand door.

About the only good news is that the door is Clopay, so that ought not to be a problem.

And unfortunately sometimes it seems easier to just do stuff yourself.

Probably like most here, I do almost everything myself -- but I read enough to be wary of the energy in these springs, and you don't save that much money, due to retail versus wholesale prices, from what I can tell.

Your pics don't show what I was looking to see. The shim and extension doesn't bother me much but would be good to have wider shots. For example to show the whole vertical piece. Pic of the top of the outside of the door? If the door is 3" short what did they do for the gap at the top?

There's a weatherstrip covering the gap. A picture of which would not tell you much, I don't think. From the outside, it looks fine.

Thanks.

 

[Innovate1]

Just my opinion, but EVERY garage door should be ordered with a high lift kit. It adds very little to the upfront cost and gets the tracks and open door out of the way much more.

That's an very broad statement. Lots of garages where you couldn't gain more than about a foot of height and high lift would be pretty pointless. Unless there is a high ceiling there isn't much point in installing high lift kit. I put a 12 x 12 door in my shop with 14' ceiling. No reason to install a high lift track there and not even sure you could get an off the shelf option for that. I did do high lift on the 8' high door in that building. The OP didn't state ceiling height but based on the 7' high door I am guessing it's a pretty typical 8' or a bit higher ceiling and no comments about needing more height besides at the door.

 

[HF1]

Thanks for all the assistance and advice.

The owner of the shop is scheduled to inspect it tomorrow.

 

[HF1]

Okay, last update since I'm trying not to make this a soap opera, but maybe folks will be amused by this:

Shop just called, and now the owner "Mike" is no longer interested in coming to inspect the work because "He knows what we installed". So now he's supposed to call me "sometime in the next couple days" to discuss.

Not enthused by that development...

 

[PCustoms]

Okay, last update since I'm trying not to make this a soap opera, but maybe folks will be amused by this:

Shop just called, and now the owner "Mike" is no longer interested in coming to inspect the work because "He knows what we installed". So now he's supposed to call me "sometime in the next couple days" to discuss.

Not enthused by that development...

Please post the pictures showing the overall installation and the gap(s).

 

[HF1]

Please post the pictures showing the overall installation and the gap(s).

As I said, it looks fine and the gaps are covered by the weatherstripping.

The issues I have are the seemingly shoddy installation, and the height of the tracks being ~4" lower than the original.

 

[PCustoms]

As I said, it looks fine and the gaps are covered by the weatherstripping.

The issues I have are the seemingly shoddy installation, and the height of the tracks being ~4" lower than the original.

That's an incredibly zoomed in photo.

Looks fine to me.

 

[Skooterj]

A high lift track kit requires a side drive opener if I’m not mistaken correct ? I have a side drive/high lift track on the 16x12 in my shop and it takes quite a bit longer to open than the regular drive 26x16.

A Jackshaft isn't required for a high lift, but it makes the most sense. Kind of silly to make a bunch of extra room and then fill it back up with a standard opener. I have seen the opener offset to one side, so most of the extra space is still there. But the door doesn't move any further when having a high lift. If using a conventional, you will need a longer door arm, but most of those are adjustable. I'd imagine once you go high enough, a standard opener would no longer work, but just adding a foot or two won't require a jackshaft.

That's an very broad statement. Lots of garages where you couldn't gain more than about a foot of height and high lift would be pretty pointless. Unless there is a high ceiling there isn't much point in installing high lift kit. I put a 12 x 12 door in my shop with 14' ceiling. No reason to install a high lift track there and not even sure you could get an off the shelf option for that. I did do high lift on the 8' high door in that building. The OP didn't state ceiling height but based on the 7' high door I am guessing it's a pretty typical 8' or a bit higher ceiling and no comments about needing more height besides at the door.

Okay, yes, a 7 foot door in a building with 8 foot ceilings isn't going to need, or even be possible to install a high lift kit. And of course, you aren't going to order a high lift kit in a building that needs a low headroom kit. But for the upfront cost, adding a high lift kit whenever possible just seems like the best option. I think it was about $50 each to add a high lift kit to my 9x8 doors when I built my house.

 

[Innovate1]

That's an incredibly zoomed in photo.

Looks fine to me.

This! That weatherstripping isn't going to cover a 3" gap, at least not installed the way it is. Post some zoomed out pics of the gap at the top and bottom (something was said about weatherstrip at the bottom but that makes no sense - maybe a seal at the bottom but that isn't going to cover much.) And some pics of the inside zoomed out enough to see more.

 

[carcruse]

If you can't get satisfaction from the dealer, be sure to let the door manufacturer know of the shoddy work their dealer performed. Maybe they can get him to address the problem. I'm sure he would like to be in good standing with them so that he can remain an authorized dealer.

 

[PCustoms]

This! That weatherstripping isn't going to cover a 3" gap, at least not installed the way it is. Post some zoomed out pics of the gap at the top and bottom (something was said about weatherstrip at the bottom but that makes no sense - maybe a seal at the bottom but that isn't going to cover much.) And some pics of the inside zoomed out enough to see more.

The thread is starting to feel like the old door was too tall (but worked) and OP is upset it's not the same combined with some relatively minor workmanship iasues

 

[Higgins]

Sounds like you need to call the office and ask questions. Ask why there is a gap … sounds like somebody mis-measured. Ask the owner to come look at the installation. Did yo7 pay with credit card? Call and dispute the charge.

Did you quote say that they were going to reuse the existing tracks ?

 

[Old tool guy]

Did you quote say that they were going to reuse the existing tracks ?

You replied to the wrong person.

 

[Old tool guy]

That's an incredibly zoomed in photo.

Looks fine to me.

Look carefully, tilt your head and stick your tongue out. They installed a big piece of weatherstrip horizontally, on the underside of the header. Never seen that before.

 

[Old tool guy]

Shop just called, and now the owner "Mike" is no longer interested in coming to inspect the work because "He knows what we installed". So now he's supposed to call me "sometime in the next couple days" to discuss.

Send an email to Mike, cc yourself, and give a recap of the phone call. Include day and time.

 

[PCustoms]

Look carefully, tilt your head and stick your tongue out. They installed a big piece of weatherstrip horizontally, on the underside of the header. Never seen that before.

Huh? Every door has that....

 

[Old tool guy]

Don't think mine does. But it would be nice to see how that interacts with the subject door. Is it covering a 3” gap?

 

[PCustoms]

Don't think mine does. But it would be nice to see how that interacts with the subject door. Is it covering a 3” gap?

There's no way it can, that lip is only about 1" at most, and sticks out horizontal from the head trim

How does your door not have a seal there?

 

[coldh2o]

There's no way it can, that lip is only about 1" at most, and sticks out horizontal from the head trim

How does your door not have a seal there?

Well, from the OP:

"The 2 1/2" gap between the top of the door and the bottom of the door-opening is covered by a weather-strip"

 

[PCustoms]

Well, from the OP:

"The 2 1/2" gap between the top of the door and the bottom of the door-opening is covered by a weather-strip"

Yes, the same OP that can't take a picture of said gap.

Idk what's going on, but I don't see a gap in that pic and that trim can't cover a 2"+ tall gap

I'll get a picture of the trim later to show you

 

[finn]

The first is definitely on the agenda.

Does anyone know if one can typically order single panels from door manufacturers? As noted above, 75% of the panels they installed are the correct size. If they can order just one more, and install it ( and re-do the tracks, of course ) that would seemingly correct the problem without an entirely-new door.

Yes. I replaced two panels of the door at our Naperville I’ll house, and when I enclosed the lean to at the shop, and had a door installed, the lower panel was damaged in shipping. The door installers ordered a new lower panel. It took several weeks to come in, but less than an hour to install.

 

[finn]

A garage door should be sized to match the rough opening. Measure from the ground to the bottom edge of supporting beam above the door. And just because a door is shorter does not mean the track needs to be any lower than your original door. In fact, why did you have them replace the track at all? Also, why did they need to shim the vertical track? Is the wall out of plumb?

Now, fixing all this isn't that difficult. Replace the 18 inch panel with a 21 inch panel. Get a high lift kit for the tracks and really get them out of the way. Doing this to start with would have been cheaper, but that ship has sailed.

Just my opinion, but EVERY garage door should be ordered with a high lift kit. It adds very little to the upfront cost and gets the tracks and open door out of the way much more.

And pics are for sure needed.

Tracks wear out over time, and tracks aren’t necessarily a universal fit between manufacturers. the door we replaced had a totally worn out track, as well as wheels. Neither were still available, ie totally obsolete.

 

[JuncleJohn]

What did they quote you, a 7’tall door or a 6’9” tall door? Unless you gave them the okay to install a shorter door they messed up.

I’d be pissed, to put it mildly. Especially since you own a full size truck.

John

 

[PCustoms]

I'll get a picture of the trim later to show you

Forgot to take a pic when I was in the shop.

This is the material



And a couple examples of how it's installed:






That's not covering a 2-3" vertical gapnin the door. It's probably covering a 1/2" gap between the door and the casing, which is needed for the door to move.

If that gap is 2-3", then the track brackets need to be moved in to the wall.

 

[whateg01]

Never had posted a pic showing the gap, which would be from the inside of the garage. With the pic that was posted, I wonder if the original 7' tall door actually extended a couple inches above the top of the opening and the door company, rightfully, said that's not how that should fit, and fitted the correct door.

 

[Skooterj]

I'm thinking the rough opening is closer to 6'9" than 7'. I'm thinking it's like 6'10". And doors can only be ordered in increments of 3". So the weatherstrip that is on every door I've ever seen is covering the 1". Which is perfectly normal. And I'm guessing the opening isn't plumb, which necessitated the need for the plywood shims. And led to the continued alignment issues the installers were having. And I see no need for new hanger brackets when the extension do the job.

And if the truck doesn't fit through the opening, it doesn't matter what size the door is. When the door is pushed all the way up, the opening is totally empty. And a F150 is only 6'7" tall, so it's gonna fit into a 6'9" opening. And the tracks are like 12" higher than the opening, so they aren't gonna interfere with the truck either.

But if you really want the 3 inches back they lowered, your gonna need to modify the tracks and extend the verticals and probably get longer cables and possibly different pulleys(probably not for 3"). And if you are going through all that trouble, do a full high lift and get the tracks like 6" from the ceiling.

 

[Skooterj]

Oh, and I hate the fear mongering that the garage door industry has spread about the dangers of torsion springs. Are they dangerous, YES. Do they kill people, NO. Not one reported fatally in the US. Ever. Can they break a bone, sure. But you're more likely to fall off the ladder working on one. Take your time, use the correct winding bars, keep your face clear and they are really easy to work with. Wear a hard hat with a face shield if that makes you more comfortable, or a full face motorcycle helmet.

 

[Skooterj]

Yes. I replaced two panels of the door at our Naperville I’ll house, and when I enclosed the lean to at the shop, and had a door installed, the lower panel was damaged in shipping. The door installers ordered a new lower panel. It took several weeks to come in, but less than an hour to install.

Did your wife drive through the two panels like mine did?

 

[finn]

Did your wife drive through the two panels like mine did?

Rot on one, shipping damage on the other.

Nice thing about the shipping damage door is that they didn’t bill me for the door or installation until they received and installed the replacement. Floated that one for probably six weeks or more.

Any ideas on what to do with the bottom section of a 12’ wide semi commercial door that’s slightly damaged?

 

[kaymccampbell]

Rot on one, shipping damage on the other.

Nice thing about the shipping damage door is that they didn’t bill me for the door or installation until they received and installed the replacement. Floated that one for probably six weeks or more.

Any ideas on what to do with the bottom section of a 12’ wide semi commercial door that’s slightly damaged?

Insulated dog house? Compressor shed?

 

[Skooterj]

Rot on one, shipping damage on the other.

Nice thing about the shipping damage door is that they didn’t bill me for the door or installation until they received and installed the replacement. Floated that one for probably six weeks or more.

Any ideas on what to do with the bottom section of a 12’ wide semi commercial door that’s slightly damaged?

I just took my two panels to the scrap yard and got like $8.

 

[Innovate1]

Forgot to take a pic when I was in the shop.

This is the material



And a couple examples of how it's installed:






That's not covering a 2-3" vertical gapnin the door. It's probably covering a 1/2" gap between the door and the casing, which is needed for the door to move.

If that gap is 2-3", then the track brackets need to be moved in to the wall.

I agree totally. No way the upper seal is going to cover a couple inch vertical gap. If the door at the top is back from the wall a little the seal could be set back to cover a horizontal gap but only about an inch. Not sure why the OP is resisting posting pics that actually show the issue better.

 

[Innovate1]

The door as-installed doesn't even clear the top of the opening, and remains about one inch lower than the top of the opening even when raised. That's going to be a major point when I reach someone on the phone.




About the only good news is that the door is Clopay, so that ought not to be a problem.




Probably like most here, I do almost everything myself -- but I read enough to be wary of the energy in these springs, and you don't save that much money, due to retail versus wholesale prices, from what I can tell.



There's a weatherstrip covering the gap. A picture of which would not tell you much, I don't think. From the outside, it looks fine.

Thanks.

Doors often hang slightly below the opening when fully open. The opener may be able to be adjusted to pull the door open a little more.

From what I can see in the pics you have posted so far it looks like the door fills the opening. You haven't shown any pictures of this 3" gap. I can only conclude that maybe it isn't really that big or different than what I am trying to imagine.

Maybe you have a real issue that I just don't see/understand. In any case, it sounds like the company doesn't want to do anything. I had a similar response on a totally different job where the company refused to come out and talk to me about an issue. They got really snippy about things saying they weren't going to waste their time and everything was fine. Their workers said they were having trouble with their machine but the supervisor ignored that. The workers probably got told they never should have told me that. Really aggravating but by the time it gets to that you may not want them working on things as their attitude *****.

 

[jarhead]

I would at least put a washer under that bolt head. It appears to be too small of a head. But thats me...

 

[Old tool guy]

Huh? Every door has that....

Ok, went and looked. I have a seal under the header, but it's very small, nowhere near the size of the one in the picture.

 

[HF1]

update:

Shop owner came out today and inspected, after previously saying he didn't need to. The upshot of which is that, for reasons he either doesn't know, or was unwilling to share, his crew installed 12" radius tracks instead of the 15s that should have been used. That accounts for the main problem, which is the raised door being 4" lower than the original, and the tracks being somewhat haphazardly installed at that height.

So, they will return tomorrow to replace the tracks -- and do a more-professional job of shimming those wall-mounted brackets. Or, perhaps, using brackets that are sufficiently-long for the install. I offered to shim the wall myself, if need be, but he declined.

The explanation for replacing the 7' door with a 6'9" is, as I think I stated before, their concern that the windows will be obscured by the header. That's not correct, since there's 5" clear between the top of the windows and the bottom of the weather-stripping. I decided not to make a further issue of the door-size swap, since it is the case that their quote spec'd a 6'9" door and I could have, and should have, objected to that two months ago, instead of trusting them to make such a decision -- had I recognized the repercussions.


So anyway, thanks for all of the assistance.