I think so............personally, that's a stupid label.The way I read the label in post #4 it gets broken up as 60A to L1/L2 and 25A to L3/L4?

I think so............personally, that's a stupid label.
Did somebody jump the 2 circuits together in the unit??? HMMMM??? That's the only way you should be pulling 60A right now.......![]()
But apparently not in the US as @Stuff noted with reference to NEC 424.......The label gives two scenario for single and dual input. With the single input its 80A does to L1/L2. So I ASSUME that jumping them together is standard procedure but not shown on the schematic, perhaps more details in the installation manual. I will see if I can find that.
I have a heat pump system that I have just found out needs to have the wiring up sized. Currently it has a 15KW E-heated on a 60Amp circuit 8ga wire, with a 60A disconnect at the indoor unit. Plan is to upgrade to 6ga wire with 70 or 80 amp CB. One question I have is do I need a disconnect at the indoor unit if I the CB panel is 10' away from it and in sight of the indoor unit.
But apparently not in the US as @Stuff noted with reference to NEC 424.......

I assume you mean for the CB box?
the installation manual for the air handler says nothing. The installation manual for the heater says next to nothing but gives a better data sheet. Funny thing is the label in post #4 states that single phase heaters are shown wired for single supply circuit. But the manual states in note 3 that a special kit is required to convert the 15KW and 20KW heaters to single point wiring.
In my view it appears that the system is running in single circuit mode based on the current of 60A and was running with an inadequate 60A CB and wiring.
So is the consensus that I need one 60 amp and one 25 amp circuit or can i do a single 80 amp circuit. Both options **** for two different reasons. Single 80 amp is the more expensive option the 2 smaller circuit require me to find more room in my CB box which is currently at the limit.
How are you up sizing the wire so quickly?
the wire is too small for the load to begin with

I did open it up once and found that opening it while it was running was not a good idea because it sucked the insulation right off the panel when I opened it. What I could see at the time didn't make much sense in the short amount of time I had. I know I can figure it out with some time but with the temps at 2° this morning. I elected to put it back together and get things running.Have you opened up the unit to see how its wired? this is the first step
Ok, but now you want answers and we need info to figure out what is actually in place. Shut the cb of for 5 mins and break out the Polaroid.I did open it up once and found that opening it while it was running was not a good idea because it sucked the insulation right off the panel when I opened it. What I could see at the time didn't make much sense in the short amount of time I had. I know I can figure it out with some time but with the temps at 2° this morning. I elected to put it back together and get things running.
Pretty much a standard sub panel. That one way out.If one feed is the easier fix at your main panel, then this could be a breakout box at the unit to correctly provide the 2 power circuits of 60/25......
Seems like the original install was not done to code and you have been flying just under the radar of 60A. That 60A cb would be tripping if your location was seeing 240 - 245v.
It is now drawing normal and balanced current. I will risk it over freezing to death.
Lots of stuff to figure out here but I sure as hell would not be running it on an 80A breaker on #8, especially if it seems to be drawing more then normal/unbalanced.
yeah you arent supposed to open it while running lolI did open it up once and found that opening it while it was running was not a good idea because it sucked the insulation right off the panel when I opened it. What I could see at the time didn't make much sense in the short amount of time I had. I know I can figure it out with some time but with the temps at 2° this morning. I elected to put it back together and get things running.


You need to measure the amps on each leg, one of the heating strips may have broken and shorted out.
it was merged with this thread, not deletedsince the other thread was deleted while i was responding...
the load with dual heater is 59.9. Its clearer with the data sheet in post 47. Or if you blow up the label.since the other thread was deleted while i was responding...
the load with dual heaters is only 69.9a, though the min circuit ampacity calc (83.4a) doesnt make sense. should be 87.4a
but yeah i wouldnt run 70a on #8
One thing I haven't seen brought up is what is the buss rated for in that breaker position?
aww ok that makes more sense.the load with dual heater is 59.9. Its clearer with the data sheet in post 47. Or if you blow up the label.
You'll be plenty warm when the place catches fire....
Seriously, throwing in a bigger fuse/breaker without diagnosing "why" or ensuring the rest of the equipment can handle it is exactly how thingt goe south.
Good luck
That only applies when the load is below 55aWhile on the subject, I recall asking about using #8 wire with a 60A circuit. Both the contractor and my inspector agreed that they allow an exception for #8 with a 60A circuit because no one makes a 55A breaker. Is that just my local code or all over.
And also is considered a continuous load and should be using conductors rated at 125%.Well I do believe I have diagnosed why, The breaker is too small and yes so is the wiring. Based on me knowing the current is in bounds I will assume the risk of wire sized for 55A to carry 60A intermittently for the next few nights.
and just an intermittent load.....this is not.That only applies when the load is below 55a
Only in Canada for the 80/90A.I could be mistaken but I think that the chart (have to open it and rotate it) is saying that if a single set of breakers is used between 208V and 240V then one needs wire gauge and two breakers rated between 80 amps and 90 amps that can carry L1, L2, L3, L4. But if one uses four breakers, one set can be between 50 and 60 amps for L1, L2 and the other set for L3, L4 should be between 25 amps and 25 amps. I only see one pair of wires coming to the unit in the photos so it sounds like it needs to be wired between 80 and 90 amps since only one set of wires is carrying both loads L1, L2 and L3, L4. The alternative is to put in 4 breakers and run a smaller gauge wire.
OP's unit has 2 conductors under a lug to feed both sets of fuses which is violating the UL listing of the fuse holders.
Normally for such circuits the load would be below 55a. Its only in this case that it happens to be 60a because someone f up. But if I go with two circuit system I would like to leave my #8 in place with a 60a cb and add a #10 with a 25a CB. Those would be running at 40a and 20a respectively.That only applies when the load is below 55a