TX4runner
Well-known member
Spark plugs are generally straight forward DIY as long as it's not a boxer engine with limited clearance. VW with cylinder holes pointing up should be easy (ish).
Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Nick's Two-Car Detached Vdub Garage
- Thread starter nicholam77
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
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nicholam77
Well-known member
I mean if this one lasts another 60k I'll be happy.
Thanks!
Wow, ok, somehow I did not know about that. Thanks. It seems like the easiest / safest option might be to replace the reservoir with a new one that doesn't use the silica pouch? My car came with G13 coolant, and looking at the service record I got it seems they replaced with G12evo for the water pump job. So I think that should be good without the silica?
Yeah, they are easily accessible straight on the top. They haven't been replaced yet since new. I have the tools, but my main concern is breaking anything (clips on the ignition harness, ground wire studs, accidentally tearing the coil pack rubber boots).
Thanks! Sounds good!
We are a VW/Audi household and learned the hard way. It's a question of when, not if, it will burst and clog the heater matrix. Then it's a dash out, replace the matrix, flush the system job. Unfortunately, you will still be plagued with the new matrix repeatedly blocking. Simple to avoid by eliminating the silica in the first instance.
If you can get a new reservoir without the silica pouch go for it. If not, the least risky method is to remove the pouch from a new reservoir before you fit it. However, I removed the pouch from our GTD and daughter's Touran without too much trouble.
Use something smooth and rounded, for example the handle of a spoon, to gently lever the pouch out of its clip and then you should be able to pull it out by your fingers. You may need the spoon to assist as it's slightly too wide for the opening.
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Ok, this is all great to know! Now you have me stressing!
After some quick Google searches, it looks like there is a newer part number expansion tank for the Mk7 that does not include the silica packet.
5Q0121407AA
I think because mine is 10 yrs old and a new tank is only ~ $50-60 for a genuine one, I'd probably do that as I'd be too scared of breaking the packet while removing it. Even with a spoon haha.
Do I need to worry about the residual G13 in the system? My understanding is the coolant was probably only 40-50% replaced during the water pump job, so would now be a mix of the original G13 and the G12evo top off. As in, would I need to worry about aluminum engine internals corroding (I think that's what the silica is supposed to prevent with G13)?
I suppose that a complete drain down and refill with G12evo would be the recommended action but I don’t know how critical it is.
Our younger daughter’s Mk7 Golf now needs its third flush of the new heater matrix fitted about 18 months ago, so this is how I know that it’s virtually impossible to get rid of the residual crystals out of the system once the pouch ruptures.
Our younger daughter’s Mk7 Golf now needs its third flush of the new heater matrix fitted about 18 months ago, so this is how I know that it’s virtually impossible to get rid of the residual crystals out of the system once the pouch ruptures.
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Yikes!!
I actually had the car back at the shop this morning for an unrelated small repair (MAP sensor harness clip was broken), so I asked them about it, too.
They agreed it's a potential big problem and should be removed.
They also said during the water pump job that *most* of the coolant was replaced with G12evo. Probably not all, but enough that they advised it should be ok to just take the bag out / replace the expansion tank with new one, and do a manual flush in the future. They recommended a full flush every 4 years or so regardless of coolant type, even though VW doesn't have a maintenance interval.
I assumed a full coolant flush would be a huge chore, but I came across this video where they basically just open the closed loop and continually top off the reservoir while the old stuff pumps out the return hose into a bucket! With the car at temp and the heater on.
I think for now I'm going to drain and remove the expansion tank, remove the silica bag while it's off the car in case it breaks, and then put the same tank back on and fill up with some G12evo premix I have on hand.
Then maybe a couple years from now I can worry about a full flush again.
Hopefully I can get to it this weekend.
And thank you for bringing this to my attention! The last thing I want after putting all this money into the car is another expensive disaster!
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Glad to be able to help. Apart from the expense involved, the on-going aggravation of the heater blowing cold air and the windscreen misting is sufficient reason to get it removed asap. Enjoy your GTI - it looks great. Wife's is Atlantic Blue which is another great colour.
OP
nicholam77
Well-known member
Thank you! Had to Google Atlantic Blue, we didn't get that in the states on the Mk7... yeah that is a nice color!
Small Smart Home Updates
Front Door
I mentioned this all the way back in May, but never actually installed the sensor...
I added a contact sensor to our front door to help cut down on Doorbell Notifications.
I had to 3d print a 'riser' for it to line up properly.
Basically I have a TTS (Text-To-Speech) announcement whenever a person is detected at the front door video doorbell that plays through the Sonos speakers in our house, and also my phone receives a push notification with a visual snapshot.
This is great when there is a visitor. But it's annoying when I'm just reaching outside the door to retrieve the mail. Or when we're unloading or loading the car and making multiple trips in and out and get a bunch of notifications. And slightly awkward if my kids open the door if they see someone they know coming, and then the guest hears my Sonos say "someone has been detected at the front door!!!". It always confuses people.
So... I added a simple condition to my front door automation that will only announce / send notification if the door has been closed for more than 1 min. To put it another way, if the door has opened within the last minute, it won't announce.
This is so if I open the door to leave the house or get the mail, the contact sensor will open first, and cancel the announcement. But if the door has been closed for awhile and a visitor approaches (mail man, guest, solicitor), it will alert us.
I used to install recessed sensors and care about aesthetics, but I don't mind so much anymore. I think it looks fairly clean on the white door, and not getting useless notifications is a huge win.
Kids Rooms
I've held off doing much automation or having smart devices in the kids rooms, but awhile back I added smart relays for the overhead light fixtures. And their night lights are on smart plugs so they can be scheduled.
They also listen to Yoto Players every night as they fall asleep, either music or podcasts. I recently discovered Yoto Player has a Home Assistant integration. Because of course it does...
So, I decided to add a 'Kids Rooms' page on my mobile app dashboard, that gives me quick control of their overhead light, night light, and Yoto.
My son also got this cool planet / space projector for his birthday that he likes to fall asleep to, but I don't want it on all night long:
So I added a smart plug to that, too.
Since I've come this far, I plan to add some relays to their lamps (they each have a floor lamp and a table lamp) that have inline switches. That will require some cutting and wiring and 3d printing.
But the full plan is to have scheduled scenes for bedtime and wakeup that automate all their lights and Yoto's. And make sure their lights turn off when we leave the house.
They have to wake up at 6am for school days which is completely dark in the winter, so I'm hoping a gentle 'light alarm' will help the wake up process.
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Denwood
Well-known member
I think I need one of those projectors in my room…ha.Thank you! Had to Google Atlantic Blue, we didn't get that in the states on the Mk7... yeah that is a nice color!
Small Smart Home Updates
Front Door
I mentioned this all the way back in May, but never actually installed the sensor...
I added a contact sensor to our front door to help cut down on Doorbell Notifications.
I had to 3d print a 'riser' for it to line up properly.
Basically I have a TTS (Text-To-Speech) announcement whenever a person is detected at the front door video doorbell that plays through the Sonos speakers in our house, and also my phone receives a push notification with a visual snapshot.
This is great when there is a visitor. But it's annoying when I'm just reaching outside the door to retrieve the mail. Or when we're unloading or loading the car and making multiple trips in and out and get a bunch of notifications. And slightly awkward if my kids open the door if they see someone they know coming, and then the guest hears my Sonos say "someone has been detected at the front door!!!". It always confuses people.
So... I added a simple condition to my front door automation that will only announce / send notification if the door has been closed for more than 1 min. To put it another way, if the door has opened within the last minute, it won't announce.
This is so if I open the door to leave the house or get the mail, the contact sensor will open first, and cancel the announcement. But if the door has been closed for awhile and a visitor approaches (mail man, guest, solicitor), it will alert us.
I used to install recessed sensors and care about aesthetics, but I don't mind so much anymore. I think it looks fairly clean on the white door, and not getting useless notifications is a huge win.
Kids Rooms
I've held off doing much automation or having smart devices in the kids rooms, but awhile back I added smart relays for the overhead light fixtures. And their night lights are on smart plugs so they can be scheduled.
They also listen to Yoto Players every night as they fall asleep, either music or podcasts. I recently discovered Yoto Player has a Home Assistant integration. Because of course it does...
So, I decided to add a 'Kids Rooms' page on my mobile app dashboard, that gives me quick control of their overhead light, night light, and Yoto.
My son also got this cool planet / space projector for his birthday that he likes to fall asleep to, but I don't want it on all night long:
So I added a smart plug to that, too.
Since I've come this far, I plan to add some relays to their lamps (they each have a floor lamp and a table lamp) that have inline switches. That will require some cutting and wiring and 3d printing.
But the full plan is to have scheduled scenes for bedtime and wakeup that automate all their lights and Yoto's. And make sure their lights turn off when we leave the house.
They have to wake up at 6am for school days which is completely dark in the winter, so I'm hoping a gentle 'light alarm' will help the wake up process.
On the coolant. Regardless of what manufacturer’s say, I think the 4 year drain and fill is a good idea as the additive package in the coolant is refreshed when you do it. I’d also suggest that a drain/fill is all you need. I’ve done this on both EVs and our Highlander as well. Same on my A3 TDI when I had it. Every car these days tends to have a specific routine for filling and dealing with air, so these details have become important. The Highlander for example has a bleed valve at the rear of the V6 engine and needs to be run up to temp, at a fixed rpm, until solid flow is observed from that valve into an overflow funnel.
Many EVs (like Ioniq5) have non conductive coolant for the battery that needs to drained/filled every 3-4 years, or 40K miles. CH-R calls for the battery coolant and brake fluid to be replaced every 30K miles.
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mfg0772
Well-known member
We have Govee projectors in the kids' rooms that they fall asleep to. It projects and does various white noise. I want one for me now too and many of our guests that happen to see them in action also find them very relaxing.
https://us.govee.com/products/govee-star-light-projector-nebula
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Yeah, it's pretty sweet. Hadn't seen those Govee ones, tbh I don't have anything 'Govee' yet. Looks nice, although for my purposes I don't mind not having an extra app to deal with. My son's uses physical slides you can switch out with many different options (our solar system, milky way, nebula, moon + stars, etc) and the scene slowly rotates (no animation). But he loves outer space so it's good for him.
Another thought I had was in our 'home theater', which is not a true home theater, having some sort of relaxing star projection on the ceiling. But I would want it to be subtle, like actual white pinhole stars instead of something busy and psychedelic.
Corrosion Warranty Denied
Well, Volkswagen got back to me.
Decision Remarks: Good Afternoon!
Thank you for sending over the required documentation. This request is declined. The damage present is consistent with excessive damage caused by negligence. Please also refer to section 1.4 of Warranty Policies and Procedures (Failure to take the vehicle to an authorized Volkswagen dealer upon discovery of a defect in material or workmanship.)
Thank you!
Over 3 months of wasted time for that.
Each rocker panel and each fender was a separate claim (so 4 total). All were denied separately, with the exact same remarks.
Excessive damage caused by negligence?
You mean I didn't realize the foam blocks you put in there that have caused problems for many people would ruin my car from the inside out?
And apparently I didn't take it in soon enough. Although from every account I've read, perforation is required. So... wait until there's a hole, and then I guess you've waited too long.
Found this on a forum regarding section 1.4
" EXCLUSIONS : As stated in 1.4 General Exclusions from Coverage.
Surface corrosion.
Corrosion perforation resulting from failure to promptly repair paint damage, damaged undercoating or surface corrosion.
Corrosion perforation due to failure to wash or otherwise regularly care for the vehicle as described in the Owner's Manual.
Corrosion perforation caused by unrepaired collision damage or improper collision repair.
Corrosion perforation caused by the use of inferior rust proofing agents or methods.
Corrosion resulting from damage caused by fallout, sandblasting, salt, foreign material deposits (bird droppings, tree sap, etc.), stone chips, or car wash chemicals.
So pretty much they can just deny it however they want for no reason at all.
The dealership told me I could take it up with Customer Care. I had previously emailed them an angry rant before receiving the decision, and their response was amiable but told me there is nothing they could do to influence corrosion claims and I must take it up with the dealer.
So instead of spending more hours arguing with someone on the phone that doesn't actually give a **** about me or my car, or complaining about the service staff to the dealership manager (won't do anything now), I'm going to accept my loss, here. I've put a ridiculous amount of time into calling, coordinating, following up, leaving voicemails, bringing my car in etc. I can see I'm not going to get anywhere.
Frustrating, yes. Unexpected, not really.
I've contacted my back up plan (the body shop and paying out of pocket). They are willing to do it. I am hoping they can do a good job. I am willing to give them a chance because it's really my only option, although my faith in anyone is not high these days!
Wish me luck.
Denwood
Well-known member
It drives me crazy that companies market their so-called corrosion warranty and then essentially make it impossible to make a claim. Rust Check offers a similar warranty and based on the **** job I’ve personally witnessed (sent my Dad’s car back 3 times to have the rear steel bumper structure coated) I suspect precisely no one has ever made a successful claim.Yeah, it's pretty sweet. Hadn't seen those Govee ones, tbh I don't have anything 'Govee' yet. Looks nice, although for my purposes I don't mind not having an extra app to deal with. My son's uses physical slides you can switch out with many different options (our solar system, milky way, nebula, moon + stars, etc) and the scene slowly rotates (no animation). But he loves outer space so it's good for him.
Another thought I had was in our 'home theater', which is not a true home theater, having some sort of relaxing star projection on the ceiling. But I would want it to be subtle, like actual white pinhole stars instead of something busy and psychedelic.
Corrosion Warranty Denied
Well, Volkswagen got back to me.
Over 3 months of wasted time for that.
Each rocker panel and each fender was a separate claim (so 4 total). All were denied separately, with the exact same remarks.
Excessive damage caused by negligence?
You mean I didn't realize the foam blocks you put in there that have caused problems for many people would ruin my car from the inside out?
And apparently I didn't take it in soon enough. Although from every account I've read, perforation is required. So... wait until there's a hole, and then I guess you've waited too long.
Found this on a forum regarding section 1.4
" EXCLUSIONS : As stated in 1.4 General Exclusions from Coverage.
Surface corrosion.
Corrosion perforation resulting from failure to promptly repair paint damage, damaged undercoating or surface corrosion.
Corrosion perforation due to failure to wash or otherwise regularly care for the vehicle as described in the Owner's Manual.
Corrosion perforation caused by unrepaired collision damage or improper collision repair.
Corrosion perforation caused by the use of inferior rust proofing agents or methods.
Corrosion resulting from damage caused by fallout, sandblasting, salt, foreign material deposits (bird droppings, tree sap, etc.), stone chips, or car wash chemicals.
So pretty much they can just deny it however they want for no reason at all.
The dealership told me I could take it up with Customer Care. I had previously emailed them an angry rant before receiving the decision, and their response was amiable but told me there is nothing they could do to influence corrosion claims and I must take it up with the dealer.
So instead of spending more hours arguing with someone on the phone that doesn't actually give a **** about me or my car, or complaining about the service staff to the dealership manager (won't do anything now), I'm going to accept my loss, here. I've put a ridiculous amount of time into calling, coordinating, following up, leaving voicemails, bringing my car in etc. I can see I'm not going to get anywhere.
Frustrating, yes. Unexpected, not really.
I've contacted my back up plan (the body shop and paying out of pocket). They are willing to do it. I am hoping they can do a good job. I am willing to give them a chance because it's really my only option, although my faith in anyone is not high these days!
Wish me luck.
I am one hand not surprised, and on the other vicariously PO’d on your behalf. It also really bothers me that do a good job with corrosion control on a keeper car, I have found it necessary to do this work myself.
I echo your frustration!
I just spent $1000 on a pothole hit which actually happened a few months back. There is an option to request compensation from the MTO but I know this is almost certainly a waste of time. This was a pothole on the local expressway, which I hit at night at around 100km/h. No markings, signage or any attempt to repair it…
fourmotioneer
Well-known member
Frustrating to see your car rust. At the same time, it’s reasonable to expect a VW to show rust after ten years living in MN, poor design or not
I think their warranty is worded in such a way as to give them an out in salty environments based on what you’ve shared
I commend you for:
1) making an attempt to have VW perform the repair
2) moving on with your backup plan of a private shop once that didn’t seem possible
My internet sage advice is to vent here, but don’t burden your wife and kids with frustration about rust on your car (not to imply that you gave). It seems like you’ve made a really strong attempt and have a solid plan moving forward
I think their warranty is worded in such a way as to give them an out in salty environments based on what you’ve shared
I commend you for:
1) making an attempt to have VW perform the repair
2) moving on with your backup plan of a private shop once that didn’t seem possible
My internet sage advice is to vent here, but don’t burden your wife and kids with frustration about rust on your car (not to imply that you gave). It seems like you’ve made a really strong attempt and have a solid plan moving forward
OP
nicholam77
Well-known member
Yes, especially since they make a point of it when they sell you the car. I specifically remember the dealer talking about it when I was signing the papers.
Dang, that's a lot! That rings home for me — we have so many potholes and cracks here, the roads are constantly being repaved. As someone with a lowered car that does not soak up bumps well, it's one of my greatest fears. I've hit my fair share and bottomed out my suspension many times... tbh I'm shocked I haven't destroyed a wheel yet but I guess BBS makes quality wheels
You're probably right, but I don't really have social media and tbh I just want to get the repair going and not waste any more time.
VW definitely must know the foam blocks are an issue, it's too widespread of an issue.
It's on the internet enough that AI is all over it... check out the summary for "vw mk7 gti rust fender" — the first thing it mentions is the foam blocks.
While that is true, my wife's car is the same age, and has been driven 180k miles vs. my 59k, and hers has no rust on the body. None. And I haven't done anything protective to her car. I've actually used Fluid Film on the under components of mine before every winter... just not in that cavity that really mattered...
So yeah, I know we salt the roads, it's 10 yrs old, it's a daily driver, but at the same time it is a poor design that absolutely contributed. I don't have rust anywhere else on the vehicle, just where the foam blocks were. If it was regular surface rust I'd still be frustrated but knowing this area was from a somewhat preventable cause is very annoying.
Salty environments and everything else under the sun. I originally didn't even want to bother with this claim because I've read so many negative stories online about them denying claims. And not just in rust belt states. I've gone deep on this issue and many have had rust in the exact same spot even in warm weather states due to dirt and moisture being held in that area. Of course salt makes it worse though.
Too late
I somewhat joke. I definitely don't burden my kids with it (they wouldn't understand or care), and most of the details I internalize and solve myself except for complaining on GJ as you mentioned. But... it's a costly repair, especially when stacked with the water pump. My wife knows it's been giving me anxiety all year, and we've had serious conversations about how to proceed (fix vs sell to buy a new car vs me take her old car and buy her a new car, etc). All of those are big purchases and involve both of us.
She would rather I just let it rust out and drive it into the ground. But I'm not going to do that. Especially after doing the water pump.
After shopping around and talking about it, the most realistic plan is to get the GTI repaired this fall. Figure out how to drive it sparingly this winter or not at all (not sure how to do that yet). Ideally get her a new car next year, probably end of next summer, and at that point I can take over her old CX-5 as a winter car. Neither of us are ready to run out and buy a new car next week.
Denwood
Well-known member
What ever you decide, I would 1000% figure out some sort of corrosion treatment. There are lots you can do at home like woolwax, fluid film etc.
Or if you can find someone locally who has confirmed OCD, and actually does a good job, even better.... as it's always messy. I have a few cavity guns, a number of assorted wands/360 heads etc. They are relatively inexpensive.
The first application if done right will take a bit of time, but after that it's generally just yearly touch ups.
Or if you can find someone locally who has confirmed OCD
, and actually does a good job, even better.... as it's always messy. I have a few cavity guns, a number of assorted wands/360 heads etc. They are relatively inexpensive.The first application if done right will take a bit of time, but after that it's generally just yearly touch ups.
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nicholam77
Well-known member
For sure, Dennis. I will make sure the body shop can treat the interior of the rocker before they seal up the repair, and once I get the car back I will figure out a treatment like you do, whether it's noxudol or something else. But as you know, winter is just so harsh, I really want to find a way to not drive it between Nov-Apr,
OP
nicholam77
Well-known member
Bye-Bye Silica Bag
Thanks to @TomGW I got this taken care of.
My plan was to remove the expansion tank so if I broke the bag while removing it, I could clean the tank before putting it back, and also make sure nothing got in the cooling system.
I siphoned the coolant out of the tank and removed it. Pretty easy.
It's definitely in there!
And then I struggled to get it out. For an hour.
I tried everything. Fingers. Spoon. Needle nose pliers. Everything was oily and slippery.
The problem is the bag is too big for the opening.
Eventually I cut the corner of the bag hoping to carefully get some of the beads out the opening. That didn't work. They released inside the tank.
I did many cycles trying to rinse the silica beads out with a hose. It did not work. Those things get everywhere. I can only imagine how it would ruin the cooling system.
I didn't feel comfortable reusing the tank, so I took my wife's car to the dealer to get a new one.
$90
Buttoned up:
There is a "burping" procedure in VCDS that helps get air out of the system, but I don't have VCDS. I used to have OBD11, but I no longer have an Android phone and I can't find my license. I really should get VCDS.
But since I just swapped the reservoir, I simply topped it off, kept the cap off, turned on the fan and heat, and ran a high idle for a couple of minutes until the thermostat opened and radiator fan came on.
All done. Now at least that won't be keeping me up at night!
Thanks to @TomGW I got this taken care of.
My plan was to remove the expansion tank so if I broke the bag while removing it, I could clean the tank before putting it back, and also make sure nothing got in the cooling system.
I siphoned the coolant out of the tank and removed it. Pretty easy.
It's definitely in there!
And then I struggled to get it out. For an hour.
I tried everything. Fingers. Spoon. Needle nose pliers. Everything was oily and slippery.
The problem is the bag is too big for the opening.
Eventually I cut the corner of the bag hoping to carefully get some of the beads out the opening. That didn't work. They released inside the tank.
I did many cycles trying to rinse the silica beads out with a hose. It did not work. Those things get everywhere. I can only imagine how it would ruin the cooling system.
I didn't feel comfortable reusing the tank, so I took my wife's car to the dealer to get a new one.
$90
Buttoned up:
There is a "burping" procedure in VCDS that helps get air out of the system, but I don't have VCDS. I used to have OBD11, but I no longer have an Android phone and I can't find my license. I really should get VCDS.
But since I just swapped the reservoir, I simply topped it off, kept the cap off, turned on the fan and heat, and ran a high idle for a couple of minutes until the thermostat opened and radiator fan came on.
All done. Now at least that won't be keeping me up at night!
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Denwood
Well-known member
Nice work on this little project. A silica bag in the coolant makes sense given it's intended purpose (to "top up" silicate levels) but it would have been a nice idea to make it easily replaceable!
fourmotioneer
Well-known member
I’m going to do the reservoir on the Alltrack thanks to your thread!
OP
nicholam77
Well-known member
The bag itself is definitely not meant to be replaced, and yeah I realize it has a purpose. The long term risk is the bag rupturing, and given the age of my car I wanted to be on the safe side.
VW / Audi now recommends G12 Evo coolant in their modern cars instead of G13. From what I understand, G12 Evo does not require the silica to condition it.
The bulk of my coolant got switched to G12 Evo during the water pump job, so I figured I am ok to lose the silica bag until I do a complete flush again.
Do it!! I can't believe I just learned of this from @TomGW but there are a ton of YouTube videos out there on it.
The new reservoir I got is a different part number than the original. The new one is 5Q0-121-407-AA, whereas the original was 5Q0-121-407-G. The original has "Mit Silkat" (With Silicate) printed on the tank. The new "AA" part does not, and it does not come with a silica bag.
When I called up the dealership, the parts department had no idea what I was talking about when I was trying to confirm they had the version with no silica bag in stock.
But when entering my 2016 VIN, the new "AA" revised part was the only one that showed. So clearly VW has switched over to the non-silica bag route. I'm not sure when it happened. Of course when they sold it to me they made no mention at all of needing G12 Evo.
Of course you can get it cheaper on FCP Euro or elsewhere, but I had it taken apart and was in a rush so I had to pay the stealership prices.
Best I can tell the proper advice if removing the bag is to switch all the coolant to G12 Evo due to its alternate ingredients and superior anti-corrosion properties.