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Here we go- Building a toolbox.

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TireTracks

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scott37300 said:
I learned threw experience! Just as you will, was just trying to give a headsup. I understand money being tight and I'm sure that your castors will be fine until you have funds to change them. Are you planning on moving this box a lot or will it sit against a wall?

I keep a bunch of castors around for little projects, always pick a couple up from HF when they are on sale. A nice castor is a must on something like a tool box if you are going to be moving it around.

Here are some 5"x2" with metal wheels like you have for 14 bucks and 16 for the swivel. Not to much more than the 35 you spend if you can take them back. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1780-R&catname=wheels. 900 pounds each with roller bearings and grease zerks. There are many other ones on there also if you search around, I have ordered from them before and was happy with my order. They even have some with shock absorbors like the big pro boxes have but they are 30 bucks a peice which isn't to bad considering they are rated for 1500 pounds a peice.
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It's mainly going to sit under my bench. It might get rolled out and off to the side if i need more work space, but our shops not that large, I havent moved any of our boxes for any reason but to clean behind them.
 
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TireTracks

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Todays progress.

Toolbox9.jpg


Toolbox10.jpg


Toolbox11.jpg


Toolbox12.jpg
 
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PT Doc

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Are you keeping a running total of the cost of all the materials? I think that would be very interesting.
 
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TireTracks

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PT Doc said:
Are you keeping a running total of the cost of all the materials? I think that would be very interesting.
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Next time i'm at lowes I will check out the cost of the stuff i'm useing. Those 2x4's and the plywood is leftovers my grandpa kept after he had his house built in the late 70's. So i have only spent $35 for the wheels, all the rest is "free" because i dident have to buy it.

mrholeshot said:
Are going to paint or stain?
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I'm going to stain it with tung oil(or similar). I like the ability to just wipe more on as the years go bye and it wears and ages.
 
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TireTracks

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Started on the drawers, no pic's of the box with it's butcherblock top yet.

thats the 8" and 5" drawers with the parts for a 4 and 2 3" drawers in it. The bottoms are 1/2" plywood sitting in dado's I cut with a router. I would have the 4" done but i ran out of 1/2" ply.

toolbox13.jpg
 
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scott37300

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TireTracks said:
Thanks. :beer:


Does anyone know if Dap Weldwood glue is water based?

It's been cold lately and my bottle of it has turned all weird and spongy, along with my Elmers wood glue.
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Not sure if they are water based or not but I have had this happen also. I just buy new and learned my lesson to store them in the house. My thought is that they don't "lose" anything when they gell up, no water evaporates from what I have seen. So I don't think they can be re hydrated to work again. Plus I don't want to take the chance of watering down the glue.\

Drawers are looking good.
 
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TireTracks

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scott37300 said:
Not sure if they are water based or not but I have had this happen also. I just buy new and learned my lesson to store them in the house. My thought is that they don't "lose" anything when they gell up, no water evaporates from what I have seen. So I don't think they can be re hydrated to work again. Plus I don't want to take the chance of watering down the glue.\

Drawers are looking good.
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I'm going to see if i can thaw it out tonight, might try some Tightbond brand stuff next.

It still worked fine, just was all thick and kinda foamy.
 
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scott37300

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TireTracks said:
I'm going to see if i can thaw it out tonight, might try some Tightbond brand stuff next.

It still worked fine, just was all thick and kinda foamy.
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Mine never thawed out, it stayed one big gelled blob.

I use tightbond and really like it.
 
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csargents1546

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:beer:Nice box, can't wait to see the progress. I keep my wood glue in a coffee can under the kitchen sink. Hate having to trash glue that has gelled up.:beer:
 
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TireTracks

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Thanks. :beer:

I'm kinda sad, there is still a half quart of clue in the bottle, and it was fine a few days ago, right after it was really cold.
 
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TireTracks

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Brought the box home, I have all of the 24" drawers done, I got the 8" installed, slides great.

View media item 8294View media item 8295
The Top is Beech.

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The Wooden sliders i'm makeing for 3 of the 24" drawers are going to be made of Beech, Sanded with 320 and waxed they side real nice, and all of the 12" becides the 12" deep 12" drawer, which will have a BB set of slides.
 
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scott37300

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Any reason for your choice of drawer slides? Some being ball bearing sliders and some being wooden sliders?
 
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TireTracks

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scott37300 said:
Any reason for your choice of drawer slides? Some being ball bearing sliders and some being wooden sliders?
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Price, people have been useing wooden slides for centurys, also the only reason I have the 3 sets of BB sliders is that the woodshop teacher had them,( a former student left them there) and gave them to me to use.
 
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Scout Driver

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TireTracks,

The bench in my garage is built from old kitchen cabinets. The drawer I added has ball-bearing slides, but the rest have wooden runners. Some of the drawers have strips of the old, stiff linoleum glued to their bottom edges where they meet their respective runners. The drawers slide remarkably easy. Maybe you could find something similar to put on the drawers or runners to cut down on friction.

Scott
 
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scott37300

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I see. One word of caution I'm sure your wood teacher already has told you about wood slides is expansion and contraction. I've seen some homemade drawers that didn't have enough gap in them and when the wood expands they are stuck shut. Box is looking good.
 
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TireTracks

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scott37300 said:
I see. One word of caution I'm sure your wood teacher already has told you about wood slides is expansion and contraction. I've seen some homemade drawers that didn't have enough gap in them and when the wood expands they are stuck shut. Box is looking good.
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Ya. I've left a gap around the sliders. it also helps that this is the dampest time of the year, summertime is bone dry.

Got 2 more drawers in

View media item 8307
View media item 8308
 
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z28snksknr

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Looks awesome - great job so far. Looking at your slides though, I'm concerned that when the drawers are fully extended, there would be some issues with strength, potentially cracking the wood. Perhaps extending the slides past the back of the drawers would supply more strength to the slide?

Just offering my $0.02.
 
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TireTracks

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z28snksknr said:
Looks awesome - great job so far. Looking at your slides though, I'm concerned that when the drawers are fully extended, there would be some issues with strength, potentially cracking the wood. Perhaps extending the slides past the back of the drawers would supply more strength to the slide?

Just offering my $0.02.
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They are not ment to be extended all the way, just like a normal wooden drawer in a desk or cabinate doesnt open all the way. in use they will probably be opened about 3/4 of the way.

Man, it sounds like plain old wooden drawers are uncommon.:confused:
 
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Painter123

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as a just in case
you could easily cut the top portion of the wood slides short then put a stop on the drawer
so you couldn't pull it out all the way
 
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mrholeshot

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I wouldn't put tools in until it stained. A little bit of grease will mess up the stain
 
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Duker

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Wax is a great quick lubricant for the drawers but there best if the drawer is sealed first with something like a spray shellac (Zinsers) which is easy to use and dries really quick. A good high carnauba content wax like Butchers Wax or a lubricant like Slip-it sliding compound works well also.

UHMW Plastic is also great for drawer runners that get a workout. You can find it at Rocklers, Woodcraft or online at Amazon or at the following link.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12548&step=4&showunits=inches&id=785&top_cat=0

An 1/8" strip will last a long, long time and make you think you have rollers on those drawers. :)
 
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TireTracks

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Duker said:
Wax is a great quick lubricant for the drawers but there best if the drawer is sealed first with something like a spray shellac (Zinsers) which is easy to use and dries really quick. A good high carnauba content wax like Butchers Wax or a lubricant like Slip-it sliding compound works well also.

UHMW Plastic is also great for drawer runners that get a workout. You can find it at Rocklers, Woodcraft or online at Amazon or at the following link.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12548&step=4&showunits=inches&id=785&top_cat=0

An 1/8" strip will last a long, long time and make you think you have rollers on those drawers. :)
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I was looking at that in my woodcraft catolog, if i can find it localy i might concider it, but i'm trying to not spend money unless i have too.

do you mean 1/8th thick, or wide?
 
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Duker

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Thickness of 1/8" and then either the width of the runner or the thickness of the drawer side if you apply it on the drawer bottom. If you have some counter top fabricators around you can usually get their laminate strips free (cut offs from applying laminate to MDF) which also work well. So all you need is a can of contact adhesive which is cheap at HD or Lowes.
 
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TireTracks

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Duker said:
Thickness of 1/8" and then either the width of the runner or the thickness of the drawer side if you apply it on the drawer bottom. If you have some counter top fabricators around you can usually get their laminate strips free (cut offs from applying laminate to MDF) which also work well. So all you need is a can of contact adhesive which is cheap at HD or Lowes.
Click to expand...

I've got tons of formica around here. Dident think of that.
 
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