Show off your tubular projects here.

[ZTFab]

Not purely tube, but something I've been working on. It's a beater bag/post dolly stand. I still need to roll the rings for the dolly holder, the tubulat pivot for the hammer holder, and the base for the beverly shear.

I'm tig welding it all with 312L (the poor man's supermissle) since I'm going to either clear coat it or coat it with BLO or Penetrol.

Damn...that's turning out really nice!

 

[ZTFab]

Made a mobile base for my brother's bandsaw at his his cabinet shop.

It's for a 23" Pehaka Vertical saw. The base of the saw has access doors front and rear but they sit flush to the bottom plate of the saw....which means that the saw can't sit down inside the base, it has to sit on top.

I machined 4 hold downs out of Cold Rolled Steel that use shoulder screws that thread into the base. Then I used angle-tipped set screws on the top that will screw down against the base of the saw. there are also angle-tipped set screws on the bottom that tighten up against the shoulder screw to keep everything snug. (The 1/2" plate in the pics is there to show how the clamps work)

The base is made from 2"x3"x.188" tubing and I made the front caster mount out of 3/16" cold rolled.

I made the level adjuster from 1/2" cold rolled rod, 1/2" acme rod, and the pads are held on with shoulder screws as well so they rotate independently from the acme rod.

The rear wheels are 6" and the front caster is 4".

 

[theoldwizard1]

Slightly off topic.

What do you guys use for swagging light (< .200) mild, tubing in the 1-2" range.

 

[zmotorsports]

Not purely tube, but something I've been working on. It's a beater bag/post dolly stand. I still need to roll the rings for the dolly holder, the tubulat pivot for the hammer holder, and the base for the beverly shear.

I'm tig welding it all with 312L (the poor man's supermissle) since I'm going to either clear coat it or coat it with BLO or Penetrol.

Very nice. I like the attention to detail.

Mike.

 

[zmotorsports]

Made a mobile base for my brother's bandsaw at his his cabinet shop.

It's for a 23" Pehaka Vertical saw. The base of the saw has access doors front and rear but they sit flush to the bottom plate of the saw....which means that the saw can't sit down inside the base, it has to sit on top.

I machined 4 hold downs out of Cold Rolled Steel that use shoulder screws that thread into the base. Then I used angle-tipped set screws on the top that will screw down against the base of the saw. there are also angle-tipped set screws on the bottom that tighten up against the shoulder screw to keep everything snug. (The 1/2" plate in the pics is there to show how the clamps work)

The base is made from 2"x3"x.188" tubing and I made the front caster mount out of 3/16" cold rolled.

I made the level adjuster from 1/2" cold rolled rod, 1/2" acme rod, and the pads are held on with shoulder screws as well so they rotate independently from the acme rod.

The rear wheels are 6" and the front caster is 4".

ZT, that is awesome. I could look at your welds all day long. Keep it up.

Mike.

 

[neonnblack]

did you get good results with the HF tubing bender on round tube before adding the wings to it?

 

[NASTYZEN]

Thank's for keeping this thread alive guys.Great posts.

 

[SWT Racing]

Damn...that's turning out really nice!

Very nice. I like the attention to detail.

Mike.

Thanks fellas. There is a saying I heard from one of our really good mechanics a while back that aptly applies to the fab in this thread: "Any job, big or small. . .do it right or not at all."

Additionally, there is a lot of really nice tube fabrication in this thread! I love the look of tubular fabricated parts, and the attention to detail is what makes or breaks these types of projects. When you are learning, nothing can humble you more than trying to get a nice tight fit on a tubular joint.

For the aspiring fabricators out there reading this thread, you might consider reading Carroll Smith's "Engineer to Win" (or any of his "to Win" series books). While it is geared toward race car eningeering and fab, it will give you a wealth of knowledge for fabrication and the importance of doing things correctly, as well as learning from your mistakes.

I like to tell my fabricators, who mostly come from a racing background, to imagine what they are building will go onto an aircraft. There is no pit crew or AAA to help you out when a fabricated part fails and the aircraft is falling from the sky. . .at which point you get the lovely award of being the first one to the crash scene. If you have the mindset that everything you build is going into an aircraft, it is much more likely that the part will be built properly.

To keep this thread on topic, here's a SolidWorks pic of my current rollcage that I am cutting out to upgrade to SFI 25.5 specs:

 

[Mario428]

To keep this thread on topic, here's a SolidWorks pic of my current rollcage that I am cutting out to upgrade to SFI 25.5 specs:

Did you use a weldment or draw the tube on their own and mate them?
Am slowly working on my next project myself in Solidworks.

 

[SWT Racing]

Did you use a weldment or draw the tube on their own and mate them?
Am slowly working on my next project myself in Solidworks.

I drew it using weldments. The main cage, the subframe connectors, the ladder bar x-member and the rearend are all separate weldments, then put into an assembly.

This is my first adventure with SolidWorks, so I figured I would model my existing rollcage for practice, as well as to give me reference points for designing the new rollcage. Once everything is done, I'll start cutting out the old stuff.

 

[NASTYZEN]

For the aspiring fabricators out there reading this thread, you might consider reading Carroll Smith's "Engineer to Win" (or any of his "to Win" series books). While it is geared toward race car eningeering and fab, it will give you a wealth of knowledge for fabrication and the importance of doing things correctly, as well as learning from your mistakes.

To keep this thread on topic, here's a SolidWorks pic of my current rollcage that I am cutting out to upgrade to SFI 25.5 specs:

Ditto on the Carroll Smith's books.They cover it all in great detail.
I also recommend the metal fabricators handbooks by Ron Fournier, a great fabricator.

Nice work with the solid works drawings.Did you take a course to learn to use it?
I have an older version that I use mainly to open drawings that I can't open with my other programs.I diddle with it from time to time but I'm sure it would take me less time to make the darn thing than to draw it.

I use Mastercam for my cnc mill and direct G-code(pull your hair out) for 98% of my cnc lathe work.

 

[SWT Racing]

Ditto on the Carroll Smith's books.They cover it all in great detail.
I also recommend the metal fabricators handbooks by Ron Fournier, a great fabricator.

I need to pick up Fornier books. David Gardiner has a great CD for automotive panel sheetmetal, all done old school with hand tools.

Nice work with the solid works drawings.Did you take a course to learn to use it?

No, I'm teaching myself. There are some great youTube videos out there, as well as the "SolidWorks Bible" in print. I am also fortunate enough to work with a great bunch of design engineers that give me tips, some of whom are as good at Engineering/CAD as they are at fabrication.

I used to be a tool and die maker in another life, so pattern making and layout work is nothing new to me. I taught myself AutoCAD, and had been drawing everything in three planes using projection lines to make up 3D parts to hand fabricate when I had my own shop. I also use(d) it to make patterns for tabs and brackets. I just draw up what I want, then print it out 1:1 on paper and glue it to the material with 3M Super77. That would give me all my cut lines and hole centerlines to center punch. I'm now moving on to Solidworks.

 

[NASTYZEN]

A team effort at my old job.We made two.

Fun was had by all.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Funny, I'm going the opposite direction. I came from strictly engineering, to now doing a Toolmaking apprenticeship. I still do a lot of Solidworks design, as my job is split between the design office, and the machine shop floor.

If I can help at all with Solidworks, please feel free to PM me.

Jim

I need to pick up Fornier books. David Gardiner has a great CD for automotive panel sheetmetal, all done old school with hand tools.



No, I'm teaching myself. There are some great youTube videos out there, as well as the "SolidWorks Bible" in print. I am also fortunate enough to work with a great bunch of design engineers that give me tips, some of whom are as good at Engineering/CAD as they are at fabrication.

I used to be a tool and die maker in another life, so pattern making and layout work is nothing new to me. I taught myself AutoCAD, and had been drawing everything in three planes using projection lines to make up 3D parts to hand fabricate when I had my own shop. I also use(d) it to make patterns for tabs and brackets. I just draw up what I want, then print it out 1:1 on paper and glue it to the material with 3M Super77. That would give me all my cut lines and hole centerlines to center punch. I'm now moving on to Solidworks.

 

[PCO6]

A team effort at my old job. We made two. Fun was had by all.

That looks great. Did you build 2 so you could race them against each other?

 

[SWT Racing]

Funny, I'm going the opposite direction. I came from strictly engineering, to now doing a Toolmaking apprenticeship. I still do a lot of Solidworks design, as my job is split between the design office, and the machine shop floor.

If I can help at all with Solidworks, please feel free to PM me.

Jim

I will definitely hit you up on the SolidQuirks help.

What type of toolmaking? We did strictly solid carbide cold form tooling for the aerospace fastener industry. Learning toolmaking will definitely make you very "precision" oriented and take your ability to focus to a whole new level. It was not terribly uncommon for us to have to hold plus or minus fifty millionths on production parts on a conventional (aka non-CNC) grinder.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

We make injection moulds, primarily for automotive, but also some general consumer goods moulds. We don't need to hold tolerances like that, but we're usually down around the 2 tenths range.

Feel free to shoot me a pm with Solidworks questions. I figure conservatively, I've spent at least 6000 hours of my life staring at that program.

I will definitely hit you up on the SolidQuirks help.

What type of toolmaking? We did strictly solid carbide cold form tooling for the aerospace fastener industry. Learning toolmaking will definitely make you very "precision" oriented and take your ability to focus to a whole new level. It was not terribly uncommon for us to have to hold plus or minus fifty millionths on production parts on a conventional (aka non-CNC) grinder.

 

[Graham08]

Here are a couple photos of my in-progress pavement sprint car. I'm hoping to finish up my new shop so I can get it on track next year.

Pics are at my old place, before I moved...

 

[Ran7dy 89]

As far as I know , seven have already been sold...I am to deliver the first chassis end of this month or so depending on the engineering side of things.
Things are beginning to rock n roll.
__________________

 

[trainer]

duplicate post please delete

 

[trainer]

Not the same league as other projects here, but this is mine;

ATV canoe rack made of 3/4" square tubing, Oxy/acetylene welded.
Mounts to the arctic cat "speedrack" system with four pins. Can be mounted or removed from the bike in 30 seconds.

 

[PhantomEB]

I like that! Might have to steal! Oh wait I dont got no canoe....

 

[gmhill33]

Made a mobile base for my brother's bandsaw at his his cabinet shop.

It's for a 23" Pehaka Vertical saw. The base of the saw has access doors front and rear but they sit flush to the bottom plate of the saw....which means that the saw can't sit down inside the base, it has to sit on top.

I machined 4 hold downs out of Cold Rolled Steel that use shoulder screws that thread into the base. Then I used angle-tipped set screws on the top that will screw down against the base of the saw. there are also angle-tipped set screws on the bottom that tighten up against the shoulder screw to keep everything snug. (The 1/2" plate in the pics is there to show how the clamps work)

The base is made from 2"x3"x.188" tubing and I made the front caster mount out of 3/16" cold rolled.

I made the level adjuster from 1/2" cold rolled rod, 1/2" acme rod, and the pads are held on with shoulder screws as well so they rotate independently from the acme rod.

The rear wheels are 6" and the front caster is 4".

Do you happen to have instructions and material list? That would be a nice project to work on. It wouldn't be just me but a couple of friends too.

Thanks,
Gary

 

[bjaspud]

That's it. After looking at gmhill33's work I've decided to sell my chinese mig and concentrate on my golf game instead. I like to think of my self as a competant hobby fabricator. After seeing work like this I'm not worthy to chip his slag (not that he has any) FANTASTIC work. That is true artwork in my eyes.

Spud

 

[jrbracing15]

That's it. After looking at gmhill33's work I've decided to sell my chinese mig and concentrate on my golf game instead. I like to think of my self as a competant hobby fabricator. After seeing work like this I'm not worthy to chip his slag (not that he has any) FANTASTIC work. That is true artwork in my eyes.

Spud

I think you meant ZTFab's Work.
GMhill Quoted his pictures.

 

[neonnblack]

wrong thread lol

 

[NASTYZEN]

A local dune buggy rental place asked me to create bumpers and nurf bars for his fleet.
This was the first one.

 

[gmhill33]

That's it. After looking at gmhill33's work I've decided to sell my chinese mig and concentrate on my golf game instead. I like to think of my self as a competant hobby fabricator. After seeing work like this I'm not worthy to chip his slag (not that he has any) FANTASTIC work. That is true artwork in my eyes.

Spud

You are talking about ZTFab's work. I could never make something that looked that good.

 

[ZTFab]

Do you happen to have instructions and material list? That would be a nice project to work on. It wouldn't be just me but a couple of friends too.

Thanks,
Gary

Hey Gary,

Sorry, no instructions but I can tell you what materials I used.

The base is made from 2" x 3" x 3/16" tubing.
The Rear wheels are 6" x 2" caster wheels (bought from Enco)
The front wheel is a 4" swivel caster (Enco)
The front wheel mount is made from 3/16" cold rolled steel
The leveling feet are made form 1/2" ACME rod, ACME nuts, and rubber feet (From McMaster-Carr)
The hold-downs are made from 3/4" x 1.5" 1018 Bar stock and use 5/16" shoulder bolts, 5/16" swivel pad set screws, and 3/8" swivel pad set screws (McMaster-Carr)

I did design the hold-down in SolidWorks. I attached a .pdf of the drawing for it.

Hope that helps.

 

[gmhill33]

Hey Gary,

Sorry, no instructions but I can tell you what materials I used.

The base is made from 2" x 3" x 3/16" tubing.
The Rear wheels are 6" x 2" caster wheels (bought from Enco)
The front wheel is a 4" swivel caster (Enco)
The front wheel mount is made from 3/16" cold rolled steel
The leveling feet are made form 1/2" ACME rod, ACME nuts, and rubber feet (From McMaster-Carr)
The hold-downs are made from 3/4" x 1.5" 1018 Bar stock and use 5/16" shoulder bolts, 5/16" swivel pad set screws, and 3/8" swivel pad set screws (McMaster-Carr)

I did design the hold-down in SolidWorks. I attached a .pdf of the drawing for it.

Hope that helps.

Thank you very much.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Positively the ugliest headers I ever saw!
They were on a Turner sports racer with a BMC engine.

 

[SWT Racing]

Positively the ugliest headers I ever saw!

I disagree.

 

[ZTFab]

I disagree.

I just threw up in my mouth after looking at that picture.

 

[NASTYZEN]

I disagree.

Ha! Haaaa! Holy ****, I stand corrected.
Now to wipe up the coffee mess that came out my nose!

 

[silentpoet]

I disagree.

I am just learning to weld and I could do better than that.

 

[ZTFab]

I am just learning to weld and I could do better than that.

I think Helen Keller could do better than that.

 

[Zengineer]

I **** you not, but I've seen worse... more than once.

I used to get all sorts of cheap DIY'ers roll into my shop to help them troubleshoot issues with their "home brew" turbo cars. I'd always heard the term "bundle of grapes" when referring to welding... I know where the term comes from. "stack of dimes" is much preferable!!

 

[SWT Racing]

Almost done with my beater bag stand. I haven't figured out exactly how I want to store the post dollies and accessories yet, but at least it's useable now.

I sprayed it with WD-40 while it was still hot for "patina", and gave it a coat of linseed oil for some protection.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I'd always heard the term "bundle of grapes" when referring to welding... I know where the term comes from.

Yeah, but grapes are good...I prefer the term "birdshit weld" for that kinda stuff!

 

[ZTFab]

I'd always heard the term "bundle of grapes" when referring to welding... I know where the term comes from. "stack of dimes" is much preferable!!

Looks like "stack of ****"