Here's one for "Dug" the tool lover (one of several here I would guess) who has been so very patient waiting for more tools to show up here.
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These are but a few of the hand tools that remained after the family removed all the ones they wanted.
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As I've mentioned before they seemed to take the "newer" ones and left the older ones, thankfully for me.
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Most of these wrenches are pretty big and beefy. Besides being large nut and bolt sizes, they are thick, heavily made. Look at the one on the far left for example, see how thick the shoulders are around the openings top and bottom. Maybe the nut and bolts they were made for were physically thick or wide. I suppose it's also possible with older metallurgy they needed to be thicker to compensate for poorer quality steel.I'm guessing they were used in tractor work mainly. Were automotive tools of the 30's and 40's made like this?
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These two more modern specialty wrenches on the right are aluminum. Anyone recognize what they might have been used for? Prop shaft on an outboard motor??
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Besides removing the rust not sure what might be the proper way to recondition them. Some of them show evidence of paint. If they're just left raw steel they'll rust again eventually. I think any surface protection that was on them originally is long gone. Any thoughts out there on what might be the best way to keep them in shape. While I don't plan on using them on a regular basis, if I need them, anything in the shop is there to work.
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Some specialty hammers.
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This one I really don't know what it was designed for? Both faces look like this.
Shrinking hammer.
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This wrench caught my eye. As you know Mr.Johnson was a blacksmith. This 12" adjustable wrench is made by the "Diamond Calk Horseshoe Co., Duluth Minn." That's a new manufacturer for me. Maybe they're quite famous, but I've never heard of them. Some of the other tools have manufactures names on them, just haven't really looked that close at them yet.
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A specialized end on these pliers/cutters.
We used them to pick up hot metal and quench it in the huge water tank we had. The area that looks like it is designed for cutting it actually small so there is less heat transfer.
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Anyone who can help out and identify the uses of any tools seen here, as always, feel free to please help us out.
Hog ring pliers, both for installing rings in the noses of pigs to keep them from rooting under the fence and getting out, and for upholstery work.
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Anyone who has done "stick" arc welding has used these to chip the old slag off a new weld. Just looking at them brings back that distinctive sound to me. When a lot of work was going on in the shop years ago, the air would be filled with the sizzle of the welder, the smell of welding smoke, followed by the clinking sound of the weld being cleaned up with these hammers.
I do have a bunch more tools that I'm bringing back to light. As you've seen I'll get them posted on here as I am able. Thanks again for all of your interest and support as I continue with the history and resurrection of this shop.
Thomas
Here's one for "Dug" the tool lover (one of several here I would guess) who has been so very patient waiting for more tools to show up here.
![]()
![]()
These are but a few of the hand tools that remained after the family removed all the ones they wanted.
![]()
As I've mentioned before they seemed to take the "newer" ones and left the older ones, thankfully for me.
![]()
Most of these wrenches are pretty big and beefy. Besides being large nut and bolt sizes, they are thick, heavily made. Look at the one on the far left for example, see how thick the shoulders are around the openings top and bottom. Maybe the nut and bolts they were made for were physically thick or wide. I suppose it's also possible with older metallurgy they needed to be thicker to compensate for poorer quality steel.I'm guessing they were used in tractor work mainly. Were automotive tools of the 30's and 40's made like this?
![]()
These two more modern specialty wrenches on the right are aluminum. Anyone recognize what they might have been used for? Prop shaft on an outboard motor??
![]()
Besides removing the rust not sure what might be the proper way to recondition them. Some of them show evidence of paint. If they're just left raw steel they'll rust again eventually. I think any surface protection that was on them originally is long gone. Any thoughts out there on what might be the best way to keep them in shape. While I don't plan on using them on a regular basis, if I need them, anything in the shop is there to work.
![]()
Some specialty hammers. The red-handled pliers were for fixing sheep fence. The "pincers" on the front were for digging staples out of the wooden fence posts. You could then hammer the staple back in with the edge (or side, depending upon your point of view) and cut the wire by slipping it into the slots on either side near the pivot point.
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This one I really don't know what it was designed for? Both faces look like this.
Shrinking hammer.
![]()
This wrench caught my eye. As you know Mr.Johnson was a blacksmith. This 12" adjustable wrench is made by the "Diamond Calk Horseshoe Co., Duluth Minn." That's a new manufacturer for me. Maybe they're quite famous, but I've never heard of them. Some of the other tools have manufactures names on them, just haven't really looked that close at them yet.
![]()
A specialized end on these pliers/cutters.
We used them to pick up hot metal and quench it in the huge water tank we had. The area that looks like it is designed for cutting it actually small so there is less heat transfer.
![]()
Anyone who can help out and identify the uses of any tools seen here, as always, feel free to please help us out.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Fencing pliers on the left, hog ring pliers on the right.
Hog ring pliers, both for installing rings in the noses of pigs to keep them from rooting under the fence and getting out, and for upholstery work.
![]()
Anyone who has done "stick" arc welding has used these to chip the old slag off a new weld. Just looking at them brings back that distinctive sound to me. When a lot of work was going on in the shop years ago, the air would be filled with the sizzle of the welder, the smell of welding smoke, followed by the clinking sound of the weld being cleaned up with these hammers.
I do have a bunch more tools that I'm bringing back to light. As you've seen I'll get them posted on here as I am able. Thanks again for all of your interest and support as I continue with the history and resurrection of this shop.
Thomas

thomas i have to say i have learned at least one thing about you while reading this thread , you do it right .
some times i have a hard time deciding whether i want to do some thing the right way or the easy way, now i say wwtd ...lol
Many thanks for a day, well actually night, brightener!!it doesnt compare to the enjoyment ive gotten from this thread but you are welcome ..lolomr, I have to tell you I was in my hotel room in Brazil when I read that last line. Talk abut laugh out loud funny!! Hope I didn't disturb any of the other guests.Many thanks for a day, well actually night, brightener!!
Thomas
My fuel tank isn't that large (only 30 gal barrel) and I have a manual pump, but then again I have a smaller Deere as well. Nice work.
The fuel drum is a good idea but not very practical as you have to have to fill it and move it about. This was my idea some time ago and to date it is working well >
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74661
I have not filled completely it as yet as I have not needed to but it has been more practical when needing to get and store Diesel fuel.
HOTFR8 I have read about some of your projects. What great passion and skill you always exhibit. Very nice work indeed.
I think perhaps you misunderstood how my fuel drum is resupplied and used. Around here, fuel can be delivered to the premises via tanker truck. My supplier is a school friend I've know my whole life whose operation is but a 1/2 mile away. He drives his fuel tanker to my barn, unreels a hose and inserts a nozzle into the drum and fills it. Takes only a couple of minutes.
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Note the wheeled dolly under the drum. I then wheel the drum on its dolly back into it's storage area. The resupply fuel comes to me, I don't have to take the drum to the resupply fuel. Also I don't need to fuel my equipment away from the barn so I'm not moving the drum more than a few feet. It would be completely different if I had to move the drum without concrete under it. As such this set up is extremely practical for my purposes.
Thanks for the link to your "Beast" project among others, what a treat!
Cheers - Thomas
some times i have a hard time deciding whether i want to do some thing the right way or the easy way, now i say wwtd ...lol
and quite frankly, you have spoiled us with the superb restoration work throughout, so we have come to expect the 'above and beyond' results. I mean, even if it can't be powder coated, it still deserves that extra 'Thomas Touch'!HOTFR8 I have read about some of your projects. What great passion and skill you always exhibit. Very nice work indeed.
Thanks for the link to your "Beast" project among others, what a treat!
Cheers - Thomas

I've had the exact same thought many times since finding this thread.
I've also wondered if the thread has become a bit of a burden for poor ol' Thomas; can he ever leave a hidden screw unclocked again, fearing that if his craftsmanship slips even a little, will we pounce like a cat on an unsuspecting mouse?
I hope not.
This thread is proof to me that P.o'.T. has a history of unparalleled craftsmanship that could endure an occasional slip, should that day ever arrive.
I Love the Hard Rock Maple Barn Bench. (HRMBB). I'm sure the inhabitants of earth in the year 2300 and beyond will enjoy using it to work on hobby spacecraft and such. (Maybe you can stash an anvil deep inside, you know how useful that could be!)
As always, thanks a lot for sharing your great adventure!
Mike![]()

Thomas, that barrel is begging for some stickers/labels/warnings/advertizing/nameplates; something! How about a fuel level sight glass? It's a cool tool that just needs a little something extra for show. Maybe a 'Good Gulf' logo; isn't it already that Gulf Co. blue? How are the airport fuel trucks done up?
It is a great idea well executed but this is the 'Restored 1930's Auto Shop'and quite frankly, you have spoiled us with the superb restoration work throughout, so we have come to expect the 'above and beyond' results. I mean, even if it can't be powder coated, it still deserves that extra 'Thomas Touch'!
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I think those two newer specialty wrenches are for hydraulic hoses and such. You don't need a ton of torque on them or they'll strip out so making something like that out of aluminum makes sense.
OK, there are a couple of blacksmiths hammers, red handled pliers are fencing pliers.
One reason the wrenches are beefier, they had all the room they needed. Engines were not as compact on tractors, cars or equipment.
I don't recall seeing any painted wrenches. Prior to chrome, they were less meticulously cleaned. A little oil/grease left over.
The oil cans were usually painted and often had a makers label.
Some of the wrenches could have come as part of a tool kit with a vehicle.
Hi Thomas & Chris,
This thread is a monster! But it sure is a testament to the hard work put in on what is obviously a well-loved, historic property there in Philo.
I must say I am overwhelmed having read this thread over the course of the last few weeks, taking in the restoration of the shop and many of its tools, to a level of detail I would never have thought possible by such a humble, everyday guy like Thomas. In fact, it's inspired me with regards to my own personal projects - I find myself thinking of Thomas when presented with project time, and making the absolute most of the time and delivering high-quality results instead of "just good enough" efforts.
Thanks for this wonderful thread, guys, and keep up the good work!
I would think if you really wanted to decorate your refueling barrel, some jet fuel stickers would not be too awful hard to find at your place of work, eh?
As usual, enjoying your work...

wow i think i just had an oprah moment.. lolMark, this thread has grown a bit more than I first had anticipated but folks don't seem to mind...... too much. I've mentioned before, I've got an index for it in the works that might make it a bit easier to navigate and reference. Problem is by the time I'm ready to post it, it's somewhat dated so I'm waiting to catch up before I do so.
I have to thank you for the kind words and what I feel is an accurate description of me, as an "everyday guy". A little more stubborn or persistent than some, but a regular guy none the less, thanks to Dad's inspiration.As I look back over the years, I can't think of a project that I've regretted spending too much time on, but there are many I am so glad I did spend the time to "do it right". Never regretted that.
More projects coming....
Thomas
Keep all that up and I will blush Omphaloskeptic!
I do need to label the drum DIESEL though, and will get around to it. While I hadn't thought of the T T embellishment you suggest it bares more thought. Watch this space!
BTW, around here the primary Gulf color I believe is orange?
Thomas
Ya, I'd say that was "a couple"
This is the reverse side of mine...
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Here's what my research says about it...
Diamalloy , marked with "Forged Diamalloy Steel" and "Made in U.S.A." forged into the shank, with "Diamond Calk Horseshoe Co." and "Duluth, Minn." forged into the reverse. Both sides are also marked with the "12 In." nominal size.
thomas i have to say i have learned at least one thing about you while reading this thread , you do it right .
some times i have a hard time deciding whether i want to do some thing the right way or the easy way, now i say wwtd ...lol

I think I still have one of those that I use regularly, got it from my father who got it from his. Still works fine.
Here is more on the buildings clean out....
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The interesting thing about this scale is that the upright part of it is made of wood (still has it's original paint) and not metal. Don't know much about these but I'd guess it's somewhat old with all those wood parts.
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This is what a bench grinder of the day looked like, belt driven. It was a light duty one. To lubricate the shaft you oiled the shaft, just outside the pulley in the center. The upper oil hole is missing its oil cap which kept "junk" out of the oil hole.
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This bench grinder used a 2" wide drive belt ( pulley in the center) because it had larger grinding wheels and it needed the larger surface area of the 2" belt so it wouldn't slip. It also was heavier duty than the other grinder so it had grease cups to lubricate the shaft. Here's how grease cups work...
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This is a grease cup on my 18" ( about 1/3 meter) Yates American thickness planer from my wood shop. This machine was made in 1944. The grease cup is the part sticking up and angling to the left.
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Here's another grease cup on the other end of the planner, this one is installed at a 90 degree angle. The actual cup is to the far left.
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Here part of the the cup has been unscrewed and removed.
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Here you can see the 2 parts that make up a grease cup.The cup is full of grease (grease cup,eh?) Note the swirl pattern of the grease in the cup from unscrewing it. Also note the threads are fine threads to give you better control in the amount of grease dispensed.
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Another view.
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Here the cup is installed but not screwed down yet. Look closely and you'll see the threads still exposed.
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Now you just screw the cup down and as you do so.......
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...you force grease down the grease line under the cup which will then lubricate the shaft the line is connected to. Also note the cup has serrated edges on it to get a better grip. Older equipment had grease cups instead of bearings as it was much cheaper than an expensive bearing. How much a machine was used determined how often you would "grease" the machine by turning the cup. It is usually turned just a 1/2 turn whenever you "grease it.
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This of course is the homemade floor grinder. The best part of this picture is all the space I now have around this floor grinder.See post #888 on page 45 to see how more space I now have.
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In the background is an old cabinet makers work bench with a black smith's vice installed on it ( thank you Kevin54 for identifying that vice (see post #891, page 45)
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The overhead line shaft for the trip hammer and camelback drill press.
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Here the all the grinders and drill press plus numerous other items wait to be picked up by an agricultural museum which will use them in exhibits exemplifying agriculture as it was "back in the day". It is my hope that this equipment will now live on in use as this museum is a hands on one in which the equipment is used and not just as static displays.
Thomas


Bump from the bottom of page SEVEN!!!
I needed a Tool Fix as I impatiently wait for the full length film documentary on the exploration of the tool shed and other out buildings behind the garage...![]()
