Perhaps, but the surface area will be many times higher with a soldered joint as the solder flows in between every individual conductor.
A proper crimp creates a
Cold weld, which does actually bond the metal, including the individual wire strands (due to the elongation of the wire which exposes new, unoxidized metal on both the terminal and wire, and the compression creates the vacuum, thus creating a cold weld).
But unlike solder, it doesn't wick up the wire, creating a non-flexible section of wire that can break due to vibration.
It not only gives a good connection (as good as solder), but it offers a higher repeatability vs. soldering, and does so at a lower cost (less labor from the crimp to inspection, as well as reduced training time).
As far as soldering irons go I really like using Weller. Grandpa and Dad had some old Wellers that still work really well. I have electric and butane iron, never let me down.
Unfortunately, current Wellers aren't the same quality of what your Dad and Grandpa used.
I've used and owned Weller for years (currently own a WD1001 as well as an old gun type), and the WD series is not as well made as past models.
The newest WX series is **** (so bad they were arriving to users DOA, and Weller did a quiet recall). Iron/pencil/handles of the WD series I own aren't as rugged (seen them break in under a year, and cost more than the entire FX-888 station <incl. power unit, iron, and stand>).
The Hakko FX-888 is a great unit for the price, but IMO it isn't really the right unit for a lot of things. It's really meant as a benchtop unit for electronic assemblers/repairmen, not as a maintenance unit for industrial/auto techs, etc.
Quite true, but it's possible to use (have done it myself).
BTW, a folded, damp towel draped over any part of the user that molten solder can drip on helps.
A suitable iron for those who are going to be occasional soldering at work and around the house, is the Portasol Super Pro 125W, or Pro Piezo 75W.
I understand your point, and if portability is the highest priority, I would agree. Unfortunately, you give up some things, particularly proper temperature control. For household use, even a stick iron can be useful.
Personally however, I'd rather use a crimp connector and butane torch for adhesive lined heat shrink (no molten solder to deal with...).
The FX-888 is the successor to the Hakko 936, which is arguably the most prolific benchtop soldering iron ever made.
Best bang-for-the-buck in a bench soldering station IMO right now.
Metcal. Only way to fly if you plan on doing a lot of soldering.
Metcal is good for production use, but I prefer temp control based irons for lab use due to the additional flexibility they offer.
My favorite is JBC BTW (best temp control and recovery I've ever seen, but they're on the expensive side).
I have never heard that before. In my experience there is no wire to wire connection more durable than a properly soldered joint with heat shrink. Also the soldered joint will have a lower resistance resulting in less heat build up at the joint for high current situations.
over the price, but once I asked them how much reworking something cost, I got my Metcals.