The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk

[PeteMoore]

Re: Cuesta Metal Meet Show & Tell

I spent this past weekend at the Cuesta Metal Meet (if you are interested in learning metal shaping, go to the Metal Meet Forums and find a Metal Meet near you). It was held at the wonderful facilities at Cuesta Junior College, in San Luis Obispo, California.

That was quite a hike, but it was a wonderful weekend, with a good 40 participants and several people giving demonstrations on metal shaping topics, followed by plenty of time to practice on metal shaping machinery, from English wheels to bead rollers to kick shrinkers and stretchers to air power planishing hammers. They were kind enough to invite me to be a presenter...and, you guessed it, I gave a presentation called Solid Rivets 101.

Here are some pics from the event...

Really wish there was something similar to this near me. Would be nice to see how old school guys who are masters at their art compare with us lowly self-taught arseholes that think we can do it

 

[machine_punk]

Hello, you spoke about a first aid cabinet. Bought one for my sample collection some years ago. It is made from aluminium and riveted.

That is cool! I am planning to make a first aid cabinet, but did not even consider having drawers inside...time for a re-design. I just want a place to keep a small box of bandaids, some antiseptic liquid, and some bandage and tape for stopping the blood flow on larger nicks and cuts (so I can stop using paper towel and electrical tape!). I am a nurse by day...you'd think I would have more than a box of Bandaids in my tool bag. I at least have bandaids and an antiseptic squirty bottle in the kitchen, for the folks who come to my cooking classes and are not used to super-sharp knives.

Now that I look closer, there are some really neat ideas in that case...the way the drawers are done, to prevent rivets on the front and the 'flip-down' shelf extender, to keep supplies in place. Great design, I can see what attracted you to that piece.

Thanks for stopping by and showing some pictures! I'd like to see more of your 'solid rivet collection,' if you have pictures.

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

Re: Cuesta Metal Meet Show & Tell

Really wish there was something similar to this near me. Would be nice to see how old school guys who are masters at their art compare with us lowly self-taught arseholes that think we can do it

Hey Pete! I took a quick look at your garage and remember looking through your thread a while ago (and ran across my post, where I commented on it). It's nice to see someone else doing as much as possible in a small space.

There are Metal Meets all over (one of them is called the Norse Metal Meet...which at least sounds like Northern Europe). Looks like you are in Ireland...I suspect there are others in your area who might be interested in a Metal Meet. It doesn't take much to sponsor a small, local Metal Meet for a couple of days...and things would snowball from there.

I took the Contour Autocraft course at Peterborough, UK, when I was living around the Cambridge area as Visiting Forces (I know that's a bit far from you).

Nice work on the midgets! That new jig table looks great. I am planning to make a sheet metal fabrication bench soon, which will have a 1/2"-thick top...hoping to get it cut at the local waterjet company.

M_P

 

[A_Pmech]

I wasn't very well received over on the metalshaping forum (I don't do enough metal 'shaping' for them),

M_P

Orly?

Their loss...

 

[machine_punk]

Orly?

Their loss...

That's what I thought, but the mod over there is VERY quick to send you a message if you post something non-metal-SHAPING.

Which is, of course, his prerogative. He is paying the bills for the site and gets to decide what his forum looks like. No hard feelings on my part, I just moved on to Garage Journal and have been very happy over here. (I do check in with the Metal Meet forum often enough, but I don't have a lot of material over there).

 

[cafyrman]

I don't mind telling you (because it is not likely I will make it back up the way for a while). It was the hardware store in Ferndale, called "Valley Lumber and Millwork/DoIt Best Hardware."

Thanks for the info. Wasn't so much looking to get the US made stuff, but to look through the blacksmith shops. Ya never know when I'll find myself in small town CA.

 

[machine_punk]

It was a pretty amazing display of the art of the blacksmith. Both traditional items made of forged iron and artistic items in several metals. Here is the web site, with a few pictures, which really doesn't do any justice to just how beautiful most of this stuff was...
http://www.ferndaleblacksmith.com/balcony.html

 

[Aero-1946]

Hello, an other sample, bought in Brussel but of unknown origin: a locker, made of aluminium and riveted. Hinges are steel. Nice looking gills all over the doors. May be an idea for your workshop?
Never seen a similar model - so I must have it. Don´t ask what my woman said ... so it found a place behind our house.

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

Das ist sehr gut!

 

[machine_punk]

Hello, an other sample, bought in Brussel but of unknown origin: a locker, made of aluminium and riveted. Hinges are steel. Nice looking gills all over the doors. May be an idea for your workshop?
Never seen a similar model - so I must have it. Don´t ask what my woman said ... so it found a place behind our house.

Those are nice looking lockers. In the US, we call those 'louvers' (sounds a little French, now that I think about it). Just pointing out the language differences (like what we call a car fender is called a 'wing' in the UK).

Too bad your partner said no. At least it will not rust, since it is made of aluminum.

I do have a plan for storage in The Aerodrome Studio. The storage unit will be mounted on a rolling frame and have shelves for power tools, drawers for hand tools, and bins for parts. It is going to be huge, but I probably will not get started on it for a while. Too many other projects waiting to be started or finished.

 

[machine_punk]

I got a little time out in the studio tonight.

My original plan was to go ahead and mount the mini tool drawer on the workbench...
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Imagine my surprise, when it did not fit. When I put it in place, the drawer stuck out about an inch from the edge of the cabinet (I built the drawer at the Metal Meet, just from what I remembered about the bench...ooops!) Oh well, that will be easy enough to rebuild at the studio. My goal tonight was really to 'finish' something. That didn't work out, either.

My next project was to touch up the crosses I made for the front of the first aid cabinet I plan to build. I originally raised the 'red cross' design on the panel with a bead roller at the Metal Meet. I got pretty close, but some of the corners needed a little bit of touching up.

Mike M, who was showing me how to use the bead roller, suggested I take an old chisel and round it off, for touching up the corners. I did not have an old chisel, so I bought a new one (do you recognize this one from my 'small-town hardware store find?') Here, I have ground down the sharp point with a belt sander, then polished it with a gray 3M surface conditioning disc. With a small ball-peen hammer, it worked beautifully for touching up the corners of the raised panels...
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Here is where I was with the flip clock I want to mount in a Custom Tool Board, for the Reconfigurable Tool Rack. Notice that the little light bulb has its own special little sheet metal bracket and shield on the bottom of the clock. Unfortunately, that is in the way of what I want to do (the original clock case sticks out more at the base, I want to mount it on a vertical panel). Fortunately, there is room at the top of the clock to mount the light (also notice the small, pre-existing hole in the bar across the front, top of the lamp).
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Unfortunately, the supplied sheet metal bracket / glare shield will not work at the top of the clock. Fortunately, I know a decent sheet metal fabricator (me). The electrical relay bracket I made for a friend recently was great practice for making this bracket/glare shield. There happened to be a hole in the center of the top bracket on the clock. I simply tapped that for 6-32 and cut down a #6 machine screw to fit. I cut off the old heat shrink tubing, before I realized it was necessary (one of the wires under that tubing does not have any insulation on it). So, I popped a piece of heat shrink back over it, bent the wire and light into place, and here it is...
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[Mike14k]

I really like your garage shop and your projects.... thsanks for opening my eyes to solid rivets.

 

[machine_punk]

I really like your garage shop and your projects.... thanks for opening my eyes to solid rivets.

Why thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to post a comment. That makes it much easier to want to take pictures and write stories about what I do in my metalworking studio.

It looks like you do something with sound systems. I've got most of a sound system, spread throughout the house. It is probably the thing I have been doing the longest, since I have worked with amateur stage productions and garage and church bands pretty much since age 12. Eeek...that makes it 30 years I've been an AV/sound/light tech.

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

Killer Clock

Well, I've been here long enough, I figured it was time to have an entry for the 'battle of the killer clocks' competition for The Aerodrome Studio. (for those of you who are new, the shop clock competition thread here is EPIC, you should take a look.) For those of you who have no idea what I am talking about and who are looking at me like I am strange (which I am), go see for yourself, right here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92787&highlight=clock+competition



While my clock may not be in the running for 'Killer Clock,' it at least exudes the style and feel I have been working with over the past year and a half in The Aerodrome Studio. The fact that it is my overall favorite style of clock, the flip clock, really makes me grin. It really all started with "I just needed a clock in the garage." But, me, being Mr. Rivet (Thanks, GirlInAGarage), I couldn't just go buy the classic, round, boring clock for my studio. My garage has to be a place which inspires me to design the sort of metal art I strive to create.



OK, have I made you wait long enough? Here goes...
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You guys have seen little bits of this already...like when I took the flip clock I bought on eBay, took it out of its case, and built a simple box to hold it on the back of a Custom Tool Board blank...
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Then took it out of that box, for the rest of fabrication, and changed the light from the bottom (in the way), to the top, with a custom little reflector, hand made from sheet metal...
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Here are a couple more pictures of the completed clock. I cut the old plug off the cord, to get it out of its original case, so I got a replacement plug at the hardware store. While I was at Ace Hardware, I also got a neat little cord grommet (they have all the coolest stuff).

I decided on POP rivets for this box, just for a change (and because I also like the look of the blind rivets). I got the Marson riveter a couple of months ago and I wanted to give it a spin. The Custom Tool Board (the flat aluminum faceplate) is drilled and tapped for the ubiquitous 10-32 socket head cap screws found all over my studio. That means I can take the rear box and clock off, without disturbing the face plate...
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Speaking of the face plate in general, and plexiglass glass specifically, plexiglass is now firmly in the category of Things I Don't Like to Fabricate. What a pain in the neck! By the time you cut five inches of it, the part you just cut has welded itself back together. I have no idea which specific product I have, since these are offcuts from full sheets I bought years ago to build a drum cage. So, I suspect I picked up Lexan, for its quality of being unbreakable. But, that was a long time ago and the writing on the protective paper is all Japanese, so I'll never know. Whatever style of plastic it was, all I have to say is "Grrrrrrrrr."

The original clock (attached below, at the end of this post) had a pretty face plate to cover up all the inner workings. Well, we cannot have that here...I am Machine-Punk and I want to see all the machinery! So, I left the face open, so I could watch everything work.

One more pic...
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What is that you are saying?..."Uhhh, Machine-Punk, why is there all that room left over to the right of the clock? Did you lose your ruler?"

Oh! Good question. This isn't meant to be 'just your average Killer Clock,' this is actually going to be a Shop Information Center (have you caught on to the fact that I like TLA's? (Three-Letter Acronyms)...Reconfigurable Tool Rack, Custom Tool Board, Shop Information Center, etc.)

Here is a diagram of what else is going to go on this Custom Tool Board. It will have a thermometer and/or hygrometer in the center (I already have one, and while I like the looks of it, it doesn't seem to be very accurate, which will annoy me eventually). On the right side, I will have an electric pencil sharpener. All you will see on the front panel is the hole, in which to insert your pencil, and whatever little bin I come up with to catch the shavings. I REALLY prefer the Panasonic Auto Stop. Yes, they are old and they are ugly, but they put the absolute best point I've ever seen on a wooden pencil. (yes, I got what I wanted off eBay before cluing in ALL of GJ), but I don't think it is going to be a good fit, size wise. I'm looking more at the ugly, green XACTO brand pencil sharpener. Should fit the profile of what I am trying to do...
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Attached is a pic of how this clock started its life...

M_P

 

[e-tek]

Loving the "Custom Tool Board"!!!

Sure wish I could have taken in your Riveting workshop too. I just ordered some Ron Covell videos and will definitely be looking into one of the future Metal Meets.

 

[Zengineer]

Great looking clock man, it really suits your shop to a tee!

 

[machine_punk]

New Fan of The Aerodrome Studio.

OK, it's NOT a 'new fan OF the aerodrome studio,' it is a 'new fan FOR the aerodrome studio' and it just came in the mail today! HURRAY! It has been warm out in the studio lately and I've been thinking I'd like to have some air circulation. I didn't want to open the garage door (noise, don't want looky-loos, HOA with people who will complain), so I had to think of another way.

I was thinking about a couple of older fans, like Ryan has been talking about lately, but eBay is slow, when you need something quickly.

I didn't see anything I liked locally, so I found a fan I which met my requirements online at Northern Tool (actually found it on Amazon). It is a 20", wall-mounted, all-metal, oscillating fan. It goes for around $100, plus shipping.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200467700_200467700

The box looks huge, I cannot wait to get it on the wall and try it out. I'll let you know how it works...
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[machine_punk]

Loving the "Custom Tool Board"!!!

Sure wish I could have taken in your Riveting workshop too. I just ordered some Ron Covell videos and will definitely be looking into one of the future Metal Meets.

Great looking clock man, it really suits your shop to a tee!

Thank you, gentlemen! I appreciate you taking the time to post.

I do plan to make a thread for my Solid Rivets 101 class...just a matter of time.

 

[machine_punk]

I created a graphic for another post, related to sheet metal, which I wanted to share here too.

The question boiled down to "how thick of sheet metal to I need for a drawer which is 'this' wide?" My answer went into the different ways you can stiffen a piece of sheet metal, so that you can use the thinnest material possible (which is critical for weight in airplanes, but merely 'cost saving' for our more down-to-earth projects)...
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Ways to stiffen a large, flat piece of sheet metal, without adding any more material:
- Bend: Bend up an edge, or make a bend in the middle of a panel.

- Bead: This is really just a 'running bend' in the middle, or near the edge of a panel.

- Lightening hole with flange. This is pretty airplane specific. Cut a hole, to make the piece lighter, then create a flange (bend up an edge), to make the whole panel stiffer.

Ways of stiffening a panel by adding more material (i.e. adding stiffeners to a panel):
- L-shaped stiffener

- hat-channel-shaped stiffener

Some more pics of these in action:

Airplane ribs, with flanges (edges bent up), beads, and lightening holes with flanges [NOT my picture]...
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The automotive floor pan makes extensive use of beads to stiffen the panel [NOT my picture]...

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

OK, there have been a couple of competitions over at RED LEADER's and a couple of others, throughout GJ. I guess it is time for a little contest here at The Aerodrome Studio.

I've really gotten into shaving with a safety razor lately. It seems to be all the rage, although I just did it because the blades are dirt cheap and easy to recycle, unlike the 32-blade cartridge razors on the market now (really?!?! over 4 dollars per cartridge?) Double Edge razor blades are just a few pennies each.

I went ahead and got myself a nice, double-edge, safety razor, the Edwin Jagger DE89BL, which goes for just under $40. There are a couple of razors out there which are highly recommended in the shaving forums, for guys to start with. The Edwin Jagger DE89BLis one of the two commonly recommended.

Picking a blade to use is a little more complicated. The forums clearly show that it is a VERY individual choice, with plenty of anecdotal evidence to back it up (Hmmm...sounds like some other forum I know, with tool choices). Anyway, it is commonly recommended that you get yourself a 100-blade sample pack, which will come with about ten different blade styles for you to try.

That sounds a little obnoxious, until you realize that blades are really only about TEN CENTS each, not the riduculous $4 per cartridge.

Here is my new safety razor, my old badger hair shaving brush, my new shaving mug, and lotsa razor blades...
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I certainly agree with the need to try several different blades. There were definitely blades I didn't like (only one or two shaves until dull, didn't shave me well) and one or two which stood out as 'much better for me' (more shaves per blade, closer shave on my face, more comfortable). Oddly enough, I picked the blade which came packaged with the razor, and didn't end up choosing any from the sample packet.

That leaves me with a LOT of blades which I will never use.

ON to the competition.

IF you have been thinking to yourself, "Hey, I'd like to try this Double Edge razor phenomenon," I'd be happy to send the remainder of the "Double Edge Safety Razor Blade Variety Pack" to you for free. That's right, the pile of blades you see in the picture above could be yours, to get you started on finding the right blade for you.

THE PLAN: To enter, all you have to do is post to this thread, by the end of the weekend (Midnight, Pacific Time, Sunday, August 5th), with the word 'CONTEST'

At the end of that time, I will write all the names of people, who posted the word 'contest' to this thread on a piece of paper, put the names in a hat (or cardboard box), and draw one name. I will send the rest of the razor blades in that pile to you for free. Unfortunately, I am going to have to limit this to the US and Canada, since I don't want to pay a fortune in shipping and deal with weird customs stuff.

Of course, I will only count you once, and you must put the word 'contest' in the post if you want to be counted, but you are welcome to post as many comments as you would like about The Aerodrome Studio, but I'll only count the people with the word 'contest in his or her post.

Summary:
1. All I am going to send you is the packages of double edged razor blades (NOT any of my personal shaving gear).

2. You must have a US or Canadian shipping address.

3. You can only enter once. You enter by posting the word 'contest' to this thread by Midnight, Pacific Time, Sunday, August 5th (i.e. ends first thing on Monday).

4. I will give you the blades and pay the shipping, anything else resulting from this is your responsibility. I will ship the blades sometime 'in the next few days.'

5. Whether or not you enter, please feel free to comment on any of the 17 pages of this thread.

M_P

 

[EdT]

Nice job on the clock panel. I'm not sure that only 12 #10 screws will be enough to support the clock long term. Did you consider the impact loading from the flipping leaves in your design? I mean, it's aluminum and fatigue life etc. etc. etc.. Looking forward to riveting 101, but I would put your own projects first. That kind of thing can eat you up.

 

[Bob Heine]

The double-edge razor brings back memories. I remember squeezing an extra couple of shaves from my Gillette blue blades by honing them in a drinking glass. You gently press the blade against the inside wall of the glass and either spin the glass or move the blade and then flip it over and repeat. I remember celebrating the switch to stainless steel Wilkinson Sword blades in 1965. Used to get nearly a month of hemorrhage-free shaving from those blades.

Now you're going need a used razor slot in your medicine cabinet. Older homes often have several thousand double-edge blades buried in their bathroom walls.

 

[machine_punk]

Nice job on the clock panel. I'm not sure that only 12 #10 screws will be enough to support the clock long term. Did you consider the impact loading from the flipping leaves in your design? I mean, it's aluminum and fatigue life etc. etc. etc.. Looking forward to riveting 101, but I would put your own projects first. That kind of thing can eat you up.

I actually only intended those 12 screws to hold on the BACK box of the clock...I was going to use 12 socket head cap screws from the back, into the tapped holes, then make even more holes and screws for the front.

My wife looked at it, with just the box on the back, and said, "Oh, you are going to screw the faceplate on the front." To which I replied, "Hmmm...I didn't even think about attaching the front and the back with the same fastener." So, I went ahead and built it that way, spacing the holes in the plexiglass to match the holes already tapped in the Custom Tool Board.

Then, I realized I hadn't really spaced the screw holes on the back box for 'pretty,' just for 'functional,' which is why I intended to have different screws on the front and back anyway (but it slipped my mind, once the wife made her suggestion).

So, I'm not particularly happy with the layout of the 12 screws on the front, but it did end up with the 'look and feel' I was going for.

But, YES, as far as function goes, it is a bit excessive in the fastener department, but in looks, it is 'just right' (in the Garage Journal way).

Yep...definitely interested on working on my own projects, but want to develop some basic instructional material for my website anyway. I've actually got enough photos and graphics for the course now, including the outline of my talk at the Cuesta College Metal Meet. I'd probably do it in little installments, anyway.

The double-edge razor brings back memories. I remember squeezing an extra couple of shaves from my Gillette blue blades by honing them in a drinking glass. You gently press the blade against the inside wall of the glass and either spin the glass or move the blade and then flip it over and repeat. I remember celebrating the switch to stainless steel Wilkinson Sword blades in 1965. Used to get nearly a month of hemorrhage-free shaving from those blades.

Now you're going need a used razor slot in your medicine cabinet. Older homes often have several thousand double-edge blades buried in their bathroom walls.

I've thought about that...the razor slot in the cabinet. Now THAT is really pushing a problem off on someone else. That is the waste management equivalent of an ostrich sticking his head in the sand.

Interesting thought on honing the blades. I don't know if I am willing to go through that much effort for something which costs so little in the first place, and is completely recyclable.

The blades I like (Derby Extra) have numbers 1-4 on them, for those really obsessive-compulsive folks to actually switch the position of the blade each shave. I just keep the blade in the razor until I have completed 3-4 shaves, then swap in a new blade.

M_P

 

[ZRX61]

Re: Recent Projects at The Aerodrome Studio

Somewhere in one of my toolboxes there's a pile of riveting samples with just about every type known represented. At one time they got polished

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M_P

 

[machine_punk]

Re: Recent Projects at The Aerodrome Studio

Somewhere in one of my toolboxes there's a pile of riveting samples with just about every type known represented. At one time they got polished

Cool! I am slowly working on my own huge pile of samples. I specifically made sure I had a physical sample or drawing to illustrate all the points on my lesson plan. As people asked for riveting help on their projects, I got even more ideas for sample pieces I'd like to put together. One I'd really like to have is simply one piece of metal, with all the different rivet sizes, with several different head styles.

Since most of the metal shapers I know are interested in using their skills on cars, I also want to get some car-specific rivet samples put together. Both samples of stuff from vintage cars (old Ford Model A's & T's used a fair amount of rivets in their construction, on both the body and the frame) and stuff you might want to do to custom car, just 'for looks.' I suppose that means I'm going to need to get a few steel rivet samples together.

I've been slowly putting car-related riveting pictures in my OneNote notebook (Microsoft's computerized notebook...I highly recommend it for anyone who needs to keep ideas in one place for several different projects.) You can save digital pictures, text, web information, video, and audio all in the same 'notebook.'

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

OH! I got another couple of goodies in the mail today.

I found two more US-made Vice Grips and got them for a VERY decent price (in the range $10 each, shipped). (NOPE...not planning on telling you where...I frequently use this place for inexpensive deals.

I got the 10R and the 7WR.

I have a wooden baseball bat on the way too. It is common for metal shapers to make their own bossing mallets out of wood baseball bats. (cut it into two pieces...the handle is the handle and the rest of the bat is a mongo bossing mallet).

Here, you see a guy using one to shape metal with a stump...

 

[machine_punk]

A Fan of The Aerodrome Studio

It isn't a fan OF The Aerodrome Studio, it is a fan FOR The Aerodrome Studio!

While it is hardly 'hot' here in Napa Valley (I have lived in 130 degrees F (55 degrees C) in Iraq, it is warm enough to be sweating, while working in the studio. It isn't really hot enough to think about adding air conditioning, but I thought it was time for some air circulation in the garage.

You saw, a couple of posts ago, where I bought the 20" industrial, wall-mounted, oscillating, all-metal fan from Northern Tool. It seemed HUGE when I got it (I am used to the small, desktop oscillating fans).

Here are the details, for those who are interested:
Northern Tool. Q Standard Oscillating Wall-Mount Fan - 20in., Model# 10236, $109.99
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200467700_200467700

Unlike most guys, I actually sat and read through the instructions, before even touching the parts of the fan. One of the first things I figured out was that I would need to get some hardware for mounting it, since it was not included with the fan.

I worked through several ideas for mounting the fan, including lagging a 2x8 across a couple of studs and lagging the fan to that. The more I thought about it, though, the more I wanted to do something different. I already have two horizontal runners of STRUT along the wall, on which the Reconfigurable Tool Rack is mounted. I intentionally mounted strut all along that wall, for future expansion or reconfiguring the tool rack (hence the name). It occurred to me that I already have a mounting system available, so I shouldn't have to mount the fan on the wall.

No matter what I was going to do, I was going to need a trip to the hardware store. I have started stocking more standard hardware in the studio, but I didn't have some of the things I would need for this project. If I need 4 or 5 of some bolt or screw, I have started just buying a box of them. That gives me spares of stuff I've already used in my designs. For some nuts and bolts, I go to Blue Collar Supply, in Sacramento, California. They sell by the pound and are a LOT cheaper than even the box prices of the big box hardware stores. This is also where I get my sheet aluminum and some of my off-cuts of odd aluminum stuff...
http://www.bluecollar-supply.com/

Due to vehicle issues (the van is in the shop, and has been for a couple of weeks--the cooling problem ended up being a lot bigger than a simple water pump), I didn't have the option of heading straight out for the hardware store, so I worked on assembling the fan and a couple of other things first, taking up time until Mrs. Machine_Punk got home, and I could go to the hardware store.

Here, you see the original 'center cover piece' of the fan, which was a stylized version of the American flag (to take your mind off the fact it was built in China). While the center plate looked nice enough, you know my penchant for customization. I needed something which screamed, "The Aerodrome Studio." Hmmm...that gives me an idea...I cut out a circle of aluminum, installed a circle of purely decorative rivets, and stamped "The Aerodrome Studio" in the center of it...
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I still had a couple of hours before I had access to the car, so I started designing and building the plywood mounting plate. I finalized my plan and decided to use one (or two, if that wasn't sturdy enough) vertical strut pieces, attached to the already-mounted horizontal strut pieces, with a plywood mounting plate. I chose 3/4" plywood (19mm?), since that is what I had lying around the garage, left over from the Baileigh Bench.

I designed the plywood mounting plate with two options. Either one piece of strut, vertically, straight up the center of the mounting plate, or two pieces of strut, on the outside edges of the mounting plate. I suspected the single piece of strut would be more than enough, but I didn't want to build a new mounting plate, if a single piece of strut didn't work out. So, it is designed to work with either plan. Of course, it turned out that the single, vertical strut was more than sturdy enough...
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I went ahead and cut the strut in half (five feet (1.6meters)), instead of going shorter, so I would have more options in the future, whenever I move to another garage. I went ahead and fastened the mounting plate to the vertical strut, and the vertical strut to the horizontal struts, with the standard strut nuts (special nuts with springs attached to the back) (for more information on strut, go back about halfway in this thread...there are several posts on it). Just to the left of the vertical strut for the fan, you see the right side of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack...
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A couple more pics of the fan. The fan, oscillating to my right, allowing you to see the standard oscillating feature on the bottom of the fan. You can defeat this feature, buy detaching the oscillation arm, and reattaching it to the center of the oscillation knob (not sure if that made sense...but whether you attach it to the center or the outer rim of the knob determines whether it oscillates or not). If you defeat the oscillation feature, it will stay pointed in whatever direction you leave it...
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And a little further back, with the fan oscillated to the left. This gives you a little better idea of size, compared to a standard garage door rail. This thing is really pretty big. You can also see that the vertical strut piece continues almost all the way up to the ceiling. The fan puts out plenty of air in low. When you switch to medium or high, it sounds like an airplane, getting ready to take off...
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Overall, I am very pleased with this fan. For just over $100 (plus shipping), it seems to be well-built and large enough to blow air around a whole two-car garage. All of the components are metal. The oscillation feature is a big plus.

I also like the way I ended up mounting it. It ended up being 'right' the first time, but this gives me options, if I decide to move it later, or if I move to another garage. Working in The Aerodrome Studio is going to be a lot more comfortable during the warm months.

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

Just to tie up loose ends, there were no entries into the Double Edge Razor Blade contest, so I will close that...and offer them somewhere else.

 

[e-tek]

Napa Valley - lucky ******!

 

[machine_punk]

Nope...just planning...

When I left the Air Force, about 4 years ago, I had just finished living overseas for 6 years (Japan, Iraq, Korea, England) and didn't have any ties anywhere (and I certainly wasn't going back to the cold and snow of Omaha, Nebraska, where I grew up). My plan was to move to 'paradise.'

So, I thought of all the places I've been, picked the place I liked the most (Southwest France) and found a place in the US closest to that (Napa Valley). One of the five Mediterranean climates in the world...never too hot, never too cold. Without knowing it, I also picked the one place I've been where mosquito's don't make every outdoor moment miserable. I haven't had one mosquito bite in the four years I've lived here.

I got off the plane having never set foot in Northern California in my life. Rented a car, then bought a car. Found a job, then found a house.

But thanks...I am happy with where I live. I'm betting there are plenty of folks who would like to have what you have too (beautiful family, job which lets you have the resources to spend time doing your hobby, and a nice side business).

M_P

 

[JMcFly]

Just to tie up loose ends, there were no entries into the Double Edge Razor Blade contest, so I will close that...and offer them somewhere else.

aw darn, I've been slacking on reading some of these threads. I've been thinking about getting one of those safety razors. I've got one of those quatro razor things.Id like a closer shave

 

[machine_punk]

aw darn, I've been slacking on reading some of these threads. I've been thinking about getting one of those safety razors. I've got one of those quatro razor things.Id like a closer shave

I sent you a private message, Joe...

I get a LOT closer shave with the double edge razors (my sweety, Mrs. Machine_Punk, really likes the closer shave of the double edge razors).

 

[droptop73]

Hi M_P,

I really like your metal projects and the progress on your workspace.

I have a simple tip for straightening your letter and number stamping. Lay a piece of masking tape along the layout line for your lettering. Use the tape for a guide by gently sliding the letter to the tape. I used that technique for many years in tooling shops. Another trick I like is to use a 45* router bit in a trim router to put a light bevel on the edges of workpieces. It works great on aluminum.

BTW I like to use a .5 mechanical pencil for layout on aluminum.

I hope this helps.

 

[machine_punk]

Those are great tips!

I have used tape (usually electrical tape, since that is what I have around the studio) before. Your solution is pretty is pretty elegant, since it gets the bottom of the actual 'letter,' and not the edge of the stamp...since the letter is not always centered perfectly on the stamp.

Sometimes, however, I really want that 'hand stamped' look...the centerpiece for the wall fan was one of those times. I still draw alignment lines on the piece when stamping--including a center line for things which need to be centered. Then, I pen the actual lettering in very fine Sharpie, making sure the center letter (or space) is actually on the center mark. Then, I do a double check to make sure I spelled everything correctly and start stamping with the center letters, moving out, to make sure spacing and centering are correct.

I'll have to try the pencil. I usually use a very fine Sharpie.

I do use the woodworking router extensively for shaping aluminum, just never thought of using it to deburr too. On non-aircraft-structure projects (everything I do), I usually end up using a 90-degree air grinder, with a 2" 3M Surface Conditioning disc to deburr the edges and the holes.

Someday, when I get a larger studio, I'd like to have a table with cutouts for 3 or 4 routers, permanently mounted underneath, and keep all the routers set up for a specific task (straight-cut pattern-following bit, round-over edge-following bit (for making wood patterns with MDF), a 45-degree chamfering bit like you mentioned, and probably a round-nose bit (for making flow forming patterns for beads in MDF)).

I appreciate you taking the time to stop by and comment. Since I'm just figuring this out on my own, I enjoy hearing from people who fabricate for a living and have found more-efficient ways to do things.

WELCOME to GJ, by the way. I stopped by your profile...looking forward to seeing some pictures of your garage and projects soon!

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

Twitter

Anyone who wants to know what I am working on can follow me on Twitter. Not a lot of amazing stuff yet, but I plan to start posting what & when I am working on.

@Machine_Punk

 

[Shoottx]

Someday, when I get a larger studio, I'd like to have a table with cutouts for 3 or 4 routers, permanently mounted underneath, and keep all the routers set up for a specific task (straight-cut pattern-following bit, round-over edge-following bit (for making wood patterns with MDF), a 45-degree chamfering bit like you mentioned, and probably a round-nose bit (for making flow forming patterns for beads in MDF)).

Until you get a big enough shop, like big enough ever happens, there are a couple options for setting up and using multiple routers. If you build a router base such as this

Of course you could make it out of metal and rivets instead of wood. Then build several router face plates that drop into the table top. Attach each to a dedicated router, bit and set up for each purpose. Ta Da, you have the flexibility and it will fit in a small space.

Just enabling the collection of routers and associated stuff.

 

[Tucko]

How are those combo roll, shear, and brakes? I've never seen one in person or used one. I have a 4 foot box and pan break, and a 4 foot roll. Still would like a stomp shear, but I'm running out of room (and money)....I'd really like to have a 12 foot CNC press brake...

 

[Kevin54]

Re: Twitter

Anyone who wants to know what I am working on can follow me on Twitter. Not a lot of amazing stuff yet, but I plan to start posting what & when I am working on.

@Machine_Punk

But what about the ones that don't Twitter?

 

[ScubaSteve]

How are those combo roll, shear, and brakes? I've never seen one in person or used one. I have a 4 foot box and pan break, and a 4 foot roll. Still would like a stomp shear, but I'm running out of room (and money)....I'd really like to have a 12 foot CNC press brake...

I've been wondering this myself. Most won't do more than 20 gauge, though I know Machine Punk probably invested a little more to get the ability to do 18 gauge. It's a big jump in price. But still, from the HF model all the way up to "real" industrial models, it seems to be 20 gauge steel max.

Some of the brakes I've seen will do 16ga, which is nice. Maybe it's worth going with separate pieces? Or maybe a 3 in 1 for gen purpose and a press brake add-on to the hydraulic shop press for the big stuff....

 

[machine_punk]

Until you get a big enough shop, like big enough ever happens, there are a couple options for setting up and using multiple routers. If you build a router base such as this

Of course you could make it out of metal and rivets instead of wood. Then build several router face plates that drop into the table top. Attach each to a dedicated router, bit and set up for each purpose. Ta Da, you have the flexibility and it will fit in a small space.

Just enabling the collection of routers and associated stuff.

That is a great idea! My local CL had about 6 metal-body Porter Cable routers one time, for less than $100. I was waiting to see if the price would drop, and missed the deal. Really kicking myself for that now...my plan was to set each of them up for different tasks and leave them set up.

M_P