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The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk

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machine_punk

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How are those combo roll, shear, and brakes? I've never seen one in person or used one. I have a 4 foot box and pan break, and a 4 foot roll. Still would like a stomp shear, but I'm running out of room (and money)....I'd really like to have a 12 foot CNC press brake...

I've been wondering this myself. Most won't do more than 20 gauge, though I know Machine Punk probably invested a little more to get the ability to do 18 gauge. It's a big jump in price. But still, from the HF model all the way up to "real" industrial models, it seems to be 20 gauge steel max.

Some of the brakes I've seen will do 16ga, which is nice. Maybe it's worth going with separate pieces? Or maybe a 3 in 1 for gen purpose and a press brake add-on to the hydraulic shop press for the big stuff....

I have really been enjoying mine. It really takes a lot of the labor out of my prototyping and opens up design choices which really aren't practical without the right equipment.

I haven't pushed it hard and I rarely work in steel anymore. This model, the Baileigh 5216, is rated for 16 gauge steel at the full width of 52 inches. I know it will bend 0.40 (OOPS...thanks for the catch, GORILLA--make that 0.040) aluminum easily enough, but I haven't put it through its paces with steel. Based on what I remember while working with 18 gauge steel, I am pretty sure both the shear and brake will handle that easily. The slip roll is downright massive, I'm pretty sure that will do the 16 gauge steel easily. When they recommend having two people to take that roll off, they are not kidding. That stinker is shockingly heavy...
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I've seen the HF models in the store, and while they are nearly an identical design, the Baileigh is MUCH more massive. I think there is something to be said for quality control too (i.e. I think Baileigh stands behind their name and do a much better job at getting their factory to adhere to strict quality standards). This thing weighs 1200 pounds. I had to pretty much take everything off it when it arrived (I'm pretty sure they sprayed it with, or dunked it in, cosmoline--that took about 10 hours with mineral spirits to clean up)...
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The directions are pretty good at telling you how to adjust everything...and I have been able to get good results with the shear and the brake. I just really haven't messed much with the roll yet.

All of that being said, I'd choose old American iron any day, IF I had the room, but I don't. As it is, the Baileigh, on it's bench, takes up a good 25% of my shop space. Give me the choice, and I'd have old, American iron for a stomp shear and and the new Baileigh magnetic brake. The versatility of that magnetic brake is amazing. I'd add old iron for a slip roll too, but that isn't something I use much right now.
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I hope I answered your questions (as well as I can...I just don't work that much in steel any more). The Baileigh is definitely a cut above the HF machines and I'm pretty sure it will bend the rated material. With enough room, though, I'd easily go for old, used industrial equipment.

M_P
 
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machine_punk

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Re: Twitter

But what about the ones that don't Twitter? :dunno:

I am not going anywhere. You will still be able to follow me here, for full project write ups! (Well, OK, I am working on my web site, TheAerodromeStudio.com, but there isn't much there yet. My main purpose in having my own domain is for picture hosting. I only have about 200 pictures left on my Garage Journal album limit.)

Twitter is just for folks who want to here things like:
- Heading out to the studio now, to prototype the new whatsajiggy.
- Sure am glad I have my wall fan today...it's a hot one in The Aerodrome Studio.
- Check my Garage Journal thread, there is a new writeup of me building a sheet metal box...using pop rivets this time.
- Don't you hate it when you build a perfectly good box, then realize it is way too thick of material for this application and you need to make it out of thinner material?

I'm sure I'll have a Facebook page up soon too, but I really need to put some effort into the web page.

M_P
 

gorilla

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I don't live too far from you, can I come over and watch you bend .40 aluminum in that combination machine?
 
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machine_punk

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Hee hee...0.040. I went back and edited the post. Good catch.

I wish it at least did 3/16" (0.1875) aluminum. I guess I'm going to have to get a shop press to do that. I use little bit of 0.25 aluminum, but I don't think I'll ever want to bend that.
 
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ScubaSteve

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MP, thanks for the info. I really dig that combo machine...actually never heard of Baleigh until this thread. Its a bit too expensive though...I may have to settle on a lesser unit. Ironically, I'm a military nurse too...except my 3 kids are all younger than 5...so money is tight.

I DO have a really nice Wells Saw 5-M horizontal metal bandsaw. I was cleaning it up to sell yesterday and realized what a great machine it really is. Nowadays even the import bandsaws are super expensive, so I may hold onto it. Right now my gears are turning thinking about how to safely convert it to a vertical without losing an arm.

This thread is really inspiring. I like to tinker, tweak my shop, etc. But I don't really have a particular interest like cars, bikes, etc. I guess I like it all, especially old iron. Your interest in rivets is really cool and "original", it has me looking at pneumatic tools now!

Speaking of which, where did you acquire that punch press/ squeezer? Even used, they are absurdly expensive...even the Chicago Pneumatic ones.
 
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machine_punk

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MP, thanks for the info. I really dig that combo machine...actually never heard of Baleigh until this thread. Its a bit too expensive though...I may have to settle on a lesser unit. Ironically, I'm a military nurse too...except my 3 kids are all younger than 5...so money is tight.

I DO have a really nice Wells Saw 5-M horizontal metal bandsaw. I was cleaning it up to sell yesterday and realized what a great machine it really is. Nowadays even the import bandsaws are super expensive, so I may hold onto it. Right now my gears are turning thinking about how to safely convert it to a vertical without losing an arm.

This thread is really inspiring. I like to tinker, tweak my shop, etc. But I don't really have a particular interest like cars, bikes, etc. I guess I like it all, especially old iron. Your interest in rivets is really cool and "original", it has me looking at pneumatic tools now!

Speaking of which, where did you acquire that punch press/ squeezer? Even used, they are absurdly expensive...even the Chicago Pneumatic ones.

I don't remember where I first heard of Baileigh, but there are a lot of big fabrication shops which use them (Orange County Customs, Mythbusters, and others).

Even though they are an importer, I think that Baileigh is very interested in protecting their name. They certainly did right by me. I bought a 'used' machine. It was originally shipped to someone and damaged in shipping. So, the original purchaser sent it back and got a new one. This one was sitting in their warehouse. I only found out about it because I was calling to order a new one, at full price. They told me about the used on and gave me a great deal (essentially half price).

Before they sent it out, they tested it for me and the main cog cracked during testing. So, being the upright company they are, they ordered a new cog and put it on...all before shipping it to me, even though the machine was technically being sold 'as is.' They've done right by me and I am pleased to send business their way.

I WAS a military nurse...left the Air Force after 10 years. I did spend a little time in Iraq, though.

I am working on a project to turn a portable Milwaukee band saw into an upright band saw with a table (an Aerodrome-Style version of the Swag Offroad portaband table...
http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-_c_35.html

If you post a couple of pics of your band saw here, maybe I'll have some ideas.

Thanks for the kind words. I mainly do what is interesting 'to me,' but I am pleased whenever others are inspired by my work. While I really enjoy building new things with rivets, I do my fair share of tinkering, wood working, and general repairs to the house and cars.

M_P
 
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ScubaSteve

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Not to threadjack, but here's some pics of my horizontal saw. Totally different than a portaband, but maybe it'll give some people some ideas. Maybe we should start a thread elsewhere....I saw a thread on "Pirate 4x4" where a guy converted a saw like this, but the pics are gone. Not much else on the intertubes about this kind of mod.

DSC04936.jpg

DSC04946.jpg

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DSC04940.jpg

Interestingly, in the above photo I thought they "misspelled" the word careful. But, now that I think about it, this was grammatically correct for the era. The word is now obsolete, but the machine is not :)

DSC04945.jpg

;)
 
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miketyler

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Just ran across this thead and love it. I started working on airplanes a year or two after graduating from high school. With nothing more than a good attitude and small portable toolbox I found a job working for a maintenace facility/FBO. This company was serving the general aviation community in DFW and repaired damaged aircraft but also bought damaged airplanes as investments and repaired and sold them for profit. I continued working in aircraft sheetmetal for 15 years before changing careers.

That looks like a very mean rivet gun you use, what is it a 7x? I use a 4X for most general work I do. I kept most all my sheetmetal aresenal as I still take on small projects and have a 4ft brake for bending up metal. I started restoring old jukeboxes and lately am dabbling in musle car restoration. Working with steel is a little different but seems more forgiving than aluminum.

Anyhow, nice to see someone that has a love for working with aluminum as I do.
 
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machine_punk

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Not to threadjack, but here's some pics of my horizontal saw. Totally different than a portaband, but maybe it'll give some people some ideas. Maybe we should start a thread elsewhere....I saw a thread on "Pirate 4x4" where a guy converted a saw like this, but the pics are gone. Not much else on the intertubes about this kind of mod.

Interestingly, in the above photo I thought they "misspelled" the word careful. But, now that I think about it, this was grammatically correct for the era. The word is now obsolete, but the machine is not :)

That's a great looking saw...I don't think I'd get rid of that. I don't mind at all when people show interesting pictures on this thread.

I don't think I'd get rid of that saw...that looks very well made.

It seems like the couple of issues you have to overcome are:

1. Making it vertical

2. Making a table for it.

Something I was considering for my portable band saw, and may work for you, is buying one of those old table saws with a cast iron top, but 'non-operational' otherwise. They are all over CL for less than $100. Take out the (non)working parts and cut away whatever is in the way for mounting the saw (building the brackets needed to keep the blade perpendicular to the table and parallel to the miter slot.) I'd do a lot of mockup with cardboard first, before cutting anything out of the cast iron top.

Anyway, that's what I was thinking.

OH...welcome to GJ (or at least to non-lurker status)...

M_P
 
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machine_punk

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Just ran across this thead and love it. I started working on airplanes a year or two after graduating from high school. With nothing more than a good attitude and small portable toolbox I found a job working for a maintenace facility/FBO. This company was serving the general aviation community in DFW and repaired damaged aircraft but also bought damaged airplanes as investments and repaired and sold them for profit. I continued working in aircraft sheetmetal for 15 years before changing careers.

That looks like a very mean rivet gun you use, what is it a 7x? I use a 4X for most general work I do. I kept most all my sheetmetal aresenal as I still take on small projects and have a 4ft brake for bending up metal. I started restoring old jukeboxes and lately am dabbling in musle car restoration. Working with steel is a little different but seems more forgiving than aluminum.

Anyhow, nice to see someone that has a love for working with aluminum as I do.

Thanks for the kind words. That's a nice looking car in your avatar. I'm always interested in hearing from folks who have 'done this for a living.' I've been completely self-taught in this, and I don't always get it right the first time. I've had some helpful tips from the professionals. I enjoy working with steel too, but there is just too much I want to build in aluminum first.

That's just the standard Cleco 4X rivet gun. I'd like to have a bigger gun some day, for using larger rivets on larger projects, but this does everything I need it to now.

M_P
 
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nine4gmc

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Scuba Steve, I think that is a horizontal/vertical band saw from the factory. It should have a release and be able to pivot the entire head up. then, you should be able to secure a DIY table to the supports some how. You may want to start a thread on that style and see who made what mods to them.

Machine Punk, love your style! I will have questions on rivets soon as I am restoring a few old boxes. Keep it up!
 
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machine_punk

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Scuba Steve, I think that is a horizontal/vertical band saw from the factory. It should have a release and be able to pivot the entire head up. then, you should be able to secure a DIY table to the supports some how. You may want to start a thread on that style and see who made what mods to them.

Machine Punk, love your style! I will have questions on rivets soon as I am restoring a few old boxes. Keep it up!

That'd be cool, if the saw already has a 'vertical' function already built in.

Thanks, NINE4GMC. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about riveting. Looks like you do upholstery...I'll be asking you a few questions too, since I'm looking into making a 'bomber style' chair, and upholstering that with the same leather and sheep skins you might find in a bomber jacket.

Thanks for taking the time to comment!

M_P
 

miketyler

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I might be wrong but that barrel looks awfully long for a 4X. It really looks like a 7X to me and looks like what we would use for driving rivets thru heavy aluminum like wing spars or other heavy structure.

Do you have a problem using it on thinner aluminum where it puckers the material around the rivet? I know you can regulate it but still I would be hesitant to use it on 020, 032, or 040 unless I had a bucking bar the size of a brick behind it. For 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", and even up to 3/16" the 4X is fine.

Let me see if I can get a picture of mine for you to compare.
 

thruthefence

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While I can't justify such an expense with the amount of sheetmetal work I do in my "real" job, I had the chance to use a couple of these:

http://www.tungsten-bucking-bar.com/prices.html

While helping a buddy of mine do a moonlighting gear-up repair on a Beech Baron. He works as a structures mechanic for a regional, and does sheetmetal repair full time. You wouldn't think the material of the bar would make such a difference in the ease of use, or the quality of the set, but it does.
 

miketyler

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Here is a pic of my 4X. I measured the barrel and is only 1/4" under 4"
 

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machine_punk

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I might be wrong but that barrel looks awfully long for a 4X. It really looks like a 7X to me and looks like what we would use for driving rivets thru heavy aluminum like wing spars or other heavy structure.

Do you have a problem using it on thinner aluminum where it puckers the material around the rivet? I know you can regulate it but still I would be hesitant to use it on 020, 032, or 040 unless I had a bucking bar the size of a brick behind it. For 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", and even up to 3/16" the 4X is fine.

Let me see if I can get a picture of mine for you to compare.

I really don't know, but the barrel clearly indicates it is a Cleco Model E5, which lists as a 4X online. The barrel is definitely in the 5" range, though. It is my understanding that at 5X, the rivet sets and tools go up to the larger size, and this one definitely measures out at 0.401", not the larger size (0.498", if I remember).

With that said, yes, it does knock the heck out of thin aluminum...but I NEVER use it without dialing down the pressure (I have a pressure regulator on the whip hose). I usually run it in the range of 25-45 PSI, for dash 3 through dash 6 rivets.

Now, I am still building up my equipment. I've only been doing this for about 1.5 years. I would like to add a 2x or 3x rivet gun at some time, as well as a larger one, like a 5x or 7x. (I'd really like to do some larger rivets...definitely at least dash 8 aluminum for some larger projects).

Thanks for stopping by! I'm always interested in hearing from folks who are 'in the business.'

M_P
 
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machine_punk

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While I can't justify such an expense with the amount of sheetmetal work I do in my "real" job, I had the chance to use a couple of these:

http://www.tungsten-bucking-bar.com/prices.html

While helping a buddy of mine do a moonlighting gear-up repair on a Beech Baron. He works as a structures mechanic for a regional, and does sheetmetal repair full time. You wouldn't think the material of the bar would make such a difference in the ease of use, or the quality of the set, but it does.

I've been thinking about trying one of those...but EEEK...that price. I've still only got one regular bucking bar...it is hard to think about spending that much on one bar. I believe you, really. I haven't had a lot of 'needs' for the shop lately...perhaps I can fit one of those in the budget soon.

Was there any particular style you found particularly helpful in many different situations?

I appreciate you stopping by to chat!
 
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machine_punk

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YEP...been away from Garage Journal for a while. All I can say is there have been work issues...and that has been keeping me busy for a few weeks. I've been walking longingly past the studio lately, but just don't have the time to stop work on any projects.

So, on to the story of this post...

I've wanted one for years. It's just never been a priority. I haven't spent much money out in the studio lately. I've got plenty of projects to work on and all the materials I need for those projects for now. So, my hobby money has been building up and I've been watching CL for odd deals.

After watching Aero-1946's techniques, and remembering some of the fabricating tips from my Contour Autocraft course, I've really wanted to have a welder. I was trained to use TIG at Contour Autocraft. My big issue is that I really want to build with rivets right now, so why would I buy a welder? My other issue has been, Which one? If I'm going to spend the money for a 'decent' machine, I want to go ahead and buy a 'lifetime' machine. I've been trained on TIG, but you need a huge AC machine to do aluminum in TIG. I've looked at the versatility of a MIG machine, but you need a spool gun to do aluminum and the machines I've been looking at are in the $3,000 range (not to mention the need to install a 50 AMP, 240 Volt circuit in the garage). Stick welding is definitely an option, for the stuff I am doing, that is building metal forms for aluminum parts--but that still brings the issue of needing a new outlet in the garage.

Hmmm...I want versatility, but I don't want to spend a fortune. I seem to remember that this dude Kent is really enthralled with gas welding, even for sheet aluminum. The versatility is there. You can cut, weld, braze, and solder any material, from thick to thin. The price is right, for used equipment.

So, the other night, I came across a set of welding tanks for a stunning price. I've been watching for months. Thing is, though, I've been looking for giant tanks. It is my understanding that it only costs a little more to fill a large bottle than a small bottle. A few days ago, I figured that if I end up gas welding, I'd probably want to get a set of large bottles for routine use, and a smaller set of bottles for that project where you run out of gas in the middle of the weekend and the LWS (Local Welding Supply) is closed. It would also be nice to make sure the small bottles will fit upright in the van, so I have a 'portable' set of tanks (acetylene is dissolved into acetone in its bottle, so it must sit upright for several hours, after you set it upright, before using it again. I also wanted as large a bottle as possible, since acetylene bottles can only release (or absorb) 1/7 of the bottle per hour).

Since I'd want a set of smaller bottles eventually, I figured I might as well get those first, since they are relatively easy to find on CL. Found two bottles in the 130 CF range, a hose, a Linde-Purox Model E cutting torch and two vintage Airco gauges, all for the measly sum of $250.

Now, I doubt I'll ever use the cutting torch...it is designed to cut up to 12 inches of steel. I'll probably end up with the Meco Midget torch (from Tinman Tech), for brazing and welding sheet metal. I'll also get some sort of medium-sized Victor torch, for building forms for sheet metal parts, metal benches, brazing a copper pipe air system together, etc.

After a little research, it seems the Airco Gauges (Acetylene 840_, unknown Oxygen) are THE gold standard in two stage, industrial welding gas gauges. They go for about $80 each on eBay.

Sorry...no pictures yet, but I wanted to update you guys on where things are for now. I'll be back in the studio soon...I've got about 5 projects I really want to get going on.

M_P
 
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Wingnut65

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Congrats on the venture into a new territory. Having welding knowledge and ability can allow for unlimited options on projects you can do. Having the right equipment makes it that much easier to do anytime and anywhere. I'm interested in watching what you do and how you go about doing it.

I have a small MIG welder and an acetylene set up with small tanks. I have access to the larger tanks that are still at my mom's house, but until I learn how to use them correctly, I don't need to be tripping over them. To learn correctly, I'd really like to take a course at a VoTech school. So, I'm interested in how you are going to proceed with what you now have.

As for the bucking bars, I don't know how many we have from working on my Dad's Cessna and my Navion. So many different shapes and sizes that one might be better for an odd angle or cramped spot . I do remember that we had to use a steel log splitting wedge to reach the end rivets on the ailerons and flaps. Most of ours be bought at Oshkosh in the bargain bin. The nice part of the price, we didn't feel bad grinding off an edge to make a new shape for a given need. I'd suggest get a couple varieties and see how useful they can be. The long handle/small head ones are helpful for cramped locations.
 
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flybefree

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Welding is cool...and totally part of the Machine Punk Genre...besides more tools are always better.

I was suprised to read about a titanium bucking bar...too rich for this farm boy...but cool.

Shaun
 
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machine_punk

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I finally got some time out in the studio today. I did spend a little time out there cleaning up a bit the other day, but that wasn't much time. I've been dealing with some issues at work and we all know how life sometimes gets in the way of hobbies.

Oh! As another side note, the van is finally back home, after weeks of being in and out of the shop.

I told you that I got some welding gear the other day, and I finally got some pics today...
View media item 23909
For the small sum of $250, I got:
- A 130 cubic foot oxygen cylinder
- A 145 cubic foot acetylene cylinder
- A nice cylinder dolly
- An Airco oxygen regulator
- An Airco acetylene regulator
- A HUGE Linde-Purox cutting torch (cuts up to 12" of steel)

After that, I got a Victor 100 torch body from someone here on GJ (I eventually want the Meco Midget torch, but this was a great deal on a decent medium-size torch).

After that, I found a Meco Aviator Jet torch, with a cutting attachment. These don't come up often on eBay, but I got a great deal, at about $60.

I also went down to my LWS (Local Welding Supply) and bought a few things: A welding helmet, some welding gloves, and a new, 25-foot set of hoses.

So, I have a lot of cutting stuff, considering the fact I don't plan to do a lot of cutting with this setup. Now, I need to get some tips for the Victor torch (uses the _-W-1 series tips).

I am also looking for some Aviator tips, but I also need the 'screw-on-adapter-thingy.' I seem to be able to find the 'AV' series tips, but nobody sells the part which actually screws onto the top of the torch to accept screw-in tips. If nothing else, I will use that torch for cutting, since I have the cutting head for it and companies still make cutting tips for it. I plan to buy the Meco Midget adapter for this torch, so I can get tips from TinMan Tech (sells a large variety of Meco Midget accessories). Anyway, I still have a few things to buy, before I can start on welding.

On to today's project. I did spend about an hour cleaning up the studio today, since I could barely squeeze sideways through the Stuff (capital "S" stuff) piled there. I did not end up working on what I wanted to today (yet), which is a plywood bracket to hold my portable band saw, so I can finally start working on the brackets for the dental lights, which are the next big project I want to work on...
View media item 23910
Whenever I want to use my iPod 'out loud,' I use a little battery-powered, portable speaker system with my older iPod. It happens to be the one made by Logitech, and I really like it. You can charge it up and use it without plugging in. Of course, I do plug it in, while working in the shop. I've been wanting to build a Custom Tool Board to hold this iPod speaker system on the Reconfigurable Tool Rack...today it finally pushed to the top of the L.O.T.T.D.I.T.A.S. (List Of Things To Do In The Aerodrome Studio).

I was doing pretty well with fabrication (and got to use the Baileigh combo machine). I had a little design problem, though. I bent both lips of the shelf up in the same direction. This caused two problems:

1 - The back bend, the one which was riveted to the tool board, was facing up, which means it could not be reached by the rivet squeezer and had to be bucked by hand. Now, I usually design my projects to use the rivet squeezer as much as possible. It is one of those 'magic' tools, which I would use just to watch it work. It was a design choice. The overall height of the iPod, sitting in the speaker system, is just over 5 inches, which is just at 3 rack spaces tall (1.75 inches X 3 = 5.25 inches). So that I didn't have too much wasted space on this tool board, which has no real function, other than servings as a shelf for my music system. As a consequence, I had to buck the rivets with the rivet gun, instead of the squeezer. Which leads to the second problem...

2 - The front lip of the shelf was in the way when I went to buck the rivets. When you are building an aircraft, you have really long rivet sets which allow you to reach tight spaces...but I haven't needed them (until today), so I haven't bought them (yet).

I will probably end up drilling out the rivets on this project and building a new shelf, with the lips bent in opposite directions, so the rivets show and I can use the squeezer for setting the rivets.

There you have it. I know it's been a long time, but I finally got something new built in the studio.

M_P
 
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shopnut

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I did spend about an hour cleaning up the studio today, since I could barely squeeze sideways through the Stuff (capital "S" stuff) piled there.
M_P
Congrats on the new welding capability! Just remember that "stuff" and high heat usually don't play well together. Make sure you keep all the flammable "stuff" clear of your work area. And don't forget to keep your fire extinguisher close at hand - we don't want to see another "After Fire Rebuild" threads in the gallery! SpeedinLemon has done a fine job covering that one already :)
 

Kevin54

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I told you that I got some welding gear the other day, and I finally got some pics today...


For the small sum of $250, I got:
- A 130 cubic foot oxygen cylinder
- A 145 cubic foot acetylene cylinder
- A nice cylinder dolly
- An Airco oxygen regulator
- An Airco acetylene regulator
- A HUGE Linde-Purox cutting torch (cuts up to 12" of steel)

MP....did you get any papers with the tanks that you bought? Some places are kind of touchy about filling tanks without sending them out for test, if they will fill them at all. When you went to your local welding place, do they carry Airco? If they don't, you may have to find another place to have them filled. Most will only fill the brand they carry.

I ran into that on a set I bought. I couldn't give the tanks away. I finally bought another set that got filled where my dad always had his filled, but he had to send those in to be checked. He swapped them for a full set so I would have some tanks. He said that he may be sending me a bill if the tanks don't test well. I assumed that they were good because I never heard from him.
 
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machine_punk

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SHOPNUT: Thanks for the safety info! (Mr.-dive-off-a-ladder-into-a-pool-of-concrete!) :D:D (Hee hee...just giving you grief). I do appreciate the safety advice as I learn something new. I don't plan to do much welding inside...I'll move to the back patio for that. I'm thinking about getting a welding blanket too, to cover up any obvious flammables.

KEVIN54: Nope, didn't get any papers. I have stopped by my LWS, though, and they don't seem to have a problem with refilling them (it seems that all tanks under a certain size are considered to be 'owner' tanks...but mine don't have the stamped name around the collar to indicate they were ever 'rental' tanks.)

They are a little out of date, which means I may have to pay for an inspection, but in the end, they are FULL...even if I cannot continue to use these tanks, the gas in them now makes this a good deal.

I'll probably stick with the 145 cubic foot acetylene tank, but upgrade to a larger oxygen tank, when I need these refilled.

M_P
 
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machine_punk

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I have been wanting to build an aeroplane-like base for my Milwaukee portable band saw. But the reality of the situation right now is that I want to use the band saw as a stationary saw to cut the trim pieces for the dental light brackets, which I have been trying to finish forever...
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I just wanted something quick and dirty...and I had some 3/4" plywood left over from the Behemoth Baileigh Bench. My overall plan was to just make some sort of bracket to attach it temporarily to a bench. I did not want to make a bracket which would take up the vise, since the only time you really need to use a vise is in the middle of a project while the band saw is clamped there (based on threads in GJ).

I did want to be able to quickly remove the bracket, so it doesn't constantly take up the bench to which it is mounted.

Here is what I came up with...
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Yes, I know, the aluminum table I built for the saw looks rough...it is definitely the 'prototype.' In the background, on the portable bench, you can see the foot switch I use to turn the saw on and off. I got both of the switches from HF (one is latching, one is momentary), so I can use both hands to guide materials through the saw.
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Notice the black, Velcro strap I use to keep the trigger depressed...
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I was originally going to mount this bracket to my main workbench, with T-nuts on the bottom of the bench, in a triangular pattern, then drill the same pattern in the bracket, and use threaded knobs to attach the bracket. I chose the triangular pattern, with the two bolts in the back, since the primary force would be 'down' on the front of the bracket and 'up in the back of the bracket.' The third bolt, near the edge of the bench, is for stability in general.

I decided to mount the bracket in my portable workbench (like a Black & Decker Workmate...has a clamping top), so I also built a backing plate for underneath the bench, with the T-bolts in it, to support the bracket in the bench.

To attach the 1/4" aluminum table to the plywood bracket, I just drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole in each side of the band saw table and attached it from underneath.

M_P
 
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machine_punk

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MP....did you get any papers with the tanks that you bought? Some places are kind of touchy about filling tanks without sending them out for test, if they will fill them at all. When you went to your local welding place, do they carry Airco? If they don't, you may have to find another place to have them filled. Most will only fill the brand they carry.

I ran into that on a set I bought. I couldn't give the tanks away. I finally bought another set that got filled where my dad always had his filled, but he had to send those in to be checked. He swapped them for a full set so I would have some tanks. He said that he may be sending me a bill if the tanks don't test well. I assumed that they were good because I never heard from him.

I did go and talk specifics with the LWS (Local Welding Supply). They don't have a problem at all with the bottles coming from another company. They provide the size and style of bottle I have, so it is not a problem for them. Since both of my bottles are a little out of date (or, as the LWS salesman says, "100% out of date," I will need to pay a small fee to have the bottles tested, whenever I need to have them filled, but that won't hold up the swap out process.

I did pick up a couple of other things, like a striker and a multi-wrench and a set of flashback arresters to put on the regulator. I have a couple of welding tips on the way for the Victor 100 torch handle I have and one tip, which I hope will work for the Meco Aviator Jet torch.

M_P
 

ScubaSteve

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Nice way to improvise! I've been doing that lately myself....it's pretty amazing what you can come up with when you have a few 2x4's and some plywood!

Not to be one of those safety nazi type guys, but when I look at your current setup, it looks as if it could fall forward. The foot pedal makes things a lot safer, but I'd anchor/weigh down the table to make it more stable in general. Less likely to fall, and you'll make better cuts.
 
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machine_punk

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it was kinda unstable as you see it. i was originally going to attach it to my big bench, but improvised on-the-fly. Because of the way the clamping top moves, one side is solid and the other moves, this was the most unstable configuration. i flipped it to the opposite side and it does not want to tip at all, since the bases of the legs come almost out to where the saw sits. i could even turn it to the end and be pretty stable too.
 

ScubaSteve

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I didn't want to come off overly critical, I think your shop and ideas are awesome. Just thought it looked kinda scary :)

Of course, I've done some pretty scary stuff with my table saw in a pinch...you know...the kind of stuff you look around to see if anyone is watching how stupid you are? Or maybe that's just me :( . :drink:
 
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machine_punk

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I didn't take it as overly-critical. I am usually a safety nut (I work in one of the largest ER's in Northern California). I'll stop the boys, and make them gear up, if I catch them trying to mow without long pants, sturdy shoes, safety glasses, and goggles. I just about cannot get work done in the studio for tripping over safety goggles, safety glasses, eye shields, ear muffs, ear plugs, and gloves. I did swap it around the other direction and it doesn't want to tip at all.

I am that way with a hand-held circular saw (Milwaukee worm drive). I used it for EVERY straight cut you see on this mount...even the one up in the mouth of the 'V.' Even if I cannot get the blade all the way through, I'll plunge until I get close to the lines. I've even been known to use it more like a router, to hog out material (like when I needed space for the the bolt and nut on the vise of the big Baileigh bench).

But, the table saw I am a bit more careful with...especially if I am cutting whole sheets...that really takes a lot of effort (and preferably two people) to do without kickback.

Of course, with every cut of a saw, I go through a little mental checklist before every cut:
- is the cord out of the way of the blade?
- can I move the saw/material all the way through the cut?
- If I am I defeating any safety features of the saw (no blade cover on the table saw for certain cuts, holding the blade guard of a circular saw out of the way for those cuts where it won't automatically retract), what system am I using to make sure fingers stay away from the blade?
- Is there anybody else around me and do they know I am about to start a saw?

Using shop power equipment is inherently dangerous. There is no better safety tip than to use these...(OH, wait, had a Norm Abrams/New Yankee Workshop moment there) :)

Anyway, thanks to everyone for taking the time to comment. It is nice to be back out in the studio creating stuff again, after a couple of months of dealing with work issues.

M_P
 
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machine_punk

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Dental Light Brackets

Slowly, but surely, making progress on the dental light brackets (you know, to hang these on the wall--actually to hang them on the Reconfigurable Tool Rack)...
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Definition: TEDIOUS. adjective : tiresome because of length or dullness : boring : fitting and preparing multiple, small parts for riveting.

Actually, that is not quite true. While the process is painstaking, it is, oddly enough, anything but tedious for me. I have enjoyed the process and continued to learn more about design for rivets. I have a job which is quite literally life-and-death and often feels like drinking water from a fire hose for up to 12 hours at a time. Coming home to spend as much time as needed to make something exactly the way I want it is quite refreshing.

Here is a little sample of what has been taking part of my last 6 hours out in the studio What you see here are corner brackets, which will be attached with rivets, to fasten parts made of 1/4" (6.5mm) aluminum plate. What you see is the process of figuring out where the center rivet needs to go. Once you figure out where each end rivet goes, you use what is called a 'rivet fan' to space your rivets equally between the end rivets. There are a lot of ratios you need to know to sort out generally how far apart they should be, but I won't bore you with that...
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Let's suffice it to say that there was a lot of measuring to do (until I spent an hour-and-a-half building two marking templates for the end holes.) The first template was made of sheet metal and worked well for one end of the corner brackets, but not for both ends. The second was made of the same aluminum angle you see in the pics above, was MUCH simpler to make, and marks the spots I wanted it to mark perfectly...just too bad I was wrong in my estimation of where those spots should be.

It is long story, which I will summarize with: Lessons were learned. The hard way. Most people will never spot the problem. The second bracket, and everything else I design from this point on, will be better for the lesson learned.

This is where 'building from scratch' is COMPLETELY different than 'repair work,' because THERE IS NO MANUAL FOR WHAT I AM DOING...if it has be be decided, I get to (have to) make the decision.

Here is the result of a LOT of trial and error. This first bracket is probably going to look fabulous to pretty much everyone. I will know the problem areas and remember it every time I see it (but I am an unusually-detail-oriented fellow. When I install screws in something, I make sure all the slots of the screws are lined up. If you remove the backs of each remote control in my house, you would find all of the batteries lined up 'just so.' It is a sickness, I know, but it is part of who I am and part of the way I build things.)

This is early enough in the project that it doesn't really look like much, but what you see there represents about 6 hours of work, again, because this isn't a kit I am assembling, I have to figure out every aspect of the design and build process as I go. I expect things will go much more quickly from this point.
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The process for fitting these corner brackets goes something like this [those of you who are bored to death by detail should skip this part...I wrote it out so that those few could see just how much is involved in fitting each piece of this project]:
- square up one end of the aluminum angle on the disk sander.
- test fit the aluminum angle to the piece it will support.
- cut the piece of angle slightly longer than needed and test fit again.
- slowly remove material from the other end of the angle, with the disk sander, checking the fit frequently.

That works for the first 2 pieces on each side. For the remaining two pieces on each side, they must also be cut out to fit the pieces of angle which are already fit to the piece:
- Mark where to make the rough cuts and cut out a majority of the material on the band saw, check the fit for how much to remove.
- Use a double cut file to remove a majority of the material, checking fit after every few strokes of the file.
- Once the fit is good on one side, adjust the fit on the other side with a file.
- Clean up the edges with a single-cut file and check the final fit.

Wherever the piece is going to go, it now needs to be measured and drilled for rivet placement:
- Use the template to mark the location of the rivet holes on the end of each piece.
- Mark these holes with a ***** punch and then a center punch.
- Drill these two end holes with a #40 drill bit (size of hole used for the smallest common solid rivet--which also the size of the holes in the rivet fan).
- Attach the rivet fan to the piece with two clecos (specialized sheet metal clamps) and mark the holes for the center rivets.
- Mark these new holes with a ***** punch and a center punch.
- Drill ALL of the holes with the correct size of drill for the rivet you are going to use (in this case, a #20 drill bit).
- deburr all of the holes and the edges of the corner bracket.

Then, you get the fun of lining all these things up, making sure the holes all match, and temporarily fitting everything up with clecos, until they are permanently attached with solid rivets.

There is definitely a specific build order. For this project, that ended up being "start building around the piece which cannot easily be adjusted to fit other pieces." It also includes a lot of "build this in the order which allows you to use the pneumatic rivet squeezer on as many of these rivets as possible, so you don't have to hand buck all these rivets."

Needless to say, I am getting very good using a hand file to finish up fabrication. I am also learning more and more about designing for rivets. All the while, my new welding rig is sitting in the corner, begging me to 'come out and play.'

Kev
 
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machine_punk

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Steam Punk Goggles

OK, let's take a quick diversion from actual projects in The Aerodrome Studio. As you may all know, I REALLY like things made out of metal. Particularly things which are now usually made of plastic, but used to be made of metal. I also like Steam Punk stuff--you know, making modern stuff look like it is steam powered, from the Victorian late 1800's. No single item is more strongly associated with Steam Punk dress than a pair of welders goggles. You know, the old-style, round goggles used for Oxy-Acetylene welding and cutting.

Well, I ran across a pair of them on eBay that I just couldn't pass up. They were made of metal, as much as possible. They have a classy design. They were made in the US, by Wilson. I could buy at least 3 pair of 'new,' plastic welding goggles for what I bought these--but, I think you will agree, I pretty much had to get them...
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Pippi says, "OOOOH...I like your new goggles, papa!."
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Prince says, "Can I borrow your new goggles, papa?"
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Kev
 

nine4gmc

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You are cracking me up with the guinea pigs, I love them. I had a short haired when I was 14 and a pair of wild haired ones at 30, they are great pets. Nice goggles too, I dig the style.

I'm getting closer to restoring some old boxes and need some rivets that hold the hardware on, where do you recommend getting small amounts of them from? Also, I have never used a rivet that didn't have the post for a squeeze gun so what tools will I need for basics? I like your pneumatic rivet gun but that's over kill for me, lol.
 
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machine_punk

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The Brute - The Van

While I am not always excited about paying for fuel for the beast, my 1990 Ford E350 15-passenger van, I am always pleased with just how much I can carry. The way I normally keep it configured (with just the first 2 passenger bench seats in the back) allows me to carry 8 people and 8 bicycles AT THE SAME TIME in the back, all secure and out of the weather. If I leave just one passenger seat in, I can stack 4'x8' sheets of plywood, floor to ceiling--or, in this case, it swallows up my motorcycle quite neatly...
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This motorbike has been sitting in storage for most of its twelve years...I bought it brand new and I have only driven it 5 of those years. I has sat patiently, as I traveled the world and made the world safe for democracy. Now that I am able to settle down, it is time to get the bike working again. Pretty much every time I take it out of storage, it needs a new battery and a good cleaning of the carbs. Tires are finally old enough that I plan to put on new ones, just to be safe (Michelin Pilot Sports, front and back). Other than that, the bike is stock, just like it came from the factory.

The one deficiency in the van, since it was built for passengers, is that it does not have any sturdy tie-downs for cargo or motorcycles. I fixed that with a few lengths of chain and some screw-down carabiners from the hardware store...
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Kev
 
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machine_punk

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Back to the Regularly-Scheduled Program

OK, enough silliness, back to building with rivets in the studio...

I am generally tapering down on the number of pictures here, because I am just about out of space in my GJ album. I'll have to see how others handle a large number of pics in a post (I like the album solution the best, since it lets you put full-sized pics right in the post. I do have TheAerodromeStudio.com to store pics now, I may have to see how that works.) I am 'this close' to having my blog up and running at TheAerodromeStudio.com/wordpress. Not sure how I will split stories then, since I will likely put most of my project build write ups over there. We'll see how it pans out.

Finally, making some progress on the Fantastic Light Brackets (the brackets which will allow me to mount my two dental lights on the Reconfigurable Light Bracket. Here is a fair amount of mock up done, with a few rivets driven and the rest held together with clecos...
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Here, I took the top plate off, so you could see some more detail of how this is all going to fit together...
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Those of you who have been following this thread will remember that the design of this bracket is based on the reflector of these lights, which happens to be a parabola. So, I designed this bracket to mirror that design, with two smaller, vertical parabolas intersected by two larger, horizontal parabolas. All of this is held together with aluminum angle and, you guessed it, rivets.

As you can see in this earlier pic, I intended to use aluminum angle everywhere imaginable. As I started assembling this thing, it became very apparent that I just won't need that many brackets and there really isn't enough room for all those brackets in this design. I have simplified the bracket system quite a bit. It will still be more than strong enough and, I believe, still look great. Here is my initial 'exploded drawing' layout of what I intended to use as angle brackets...
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It is wonderful to actually be making progress on this project again. It is taking longer than I thought it might, but I have been figuring out the process as I go. I'm starting to design with enough complexity that I find it would be helpful to have a few new tools, starting with a 90-degree drill. the one I am thinking about is very specialized to the aeroplane-assembly field. It does not use a chuck, but the bits are threaded with a 1/4" thread to attach them to the head of the drill.

It has been vital that I think carefully about the order of assembly for this project. It would be very easy to assemble one part which would then make it impossible to get to the next part. Some of that can be solved with more tools (designed to get around obstructions) and some of that just requires a very well-thought-out assembly process.

Kev
 
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machine_punk

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You are cracking me up with the guinea pigs, I love them. I had a short haired when I was 14 and a pair of wild haired ones at 30, they are great pets. Nice goggles too, I dig the style.

I'm getting closer to restoring some old boxes and need some rivets that hold the hardware on, where do you recommend getting small amounts of them from? Also, I have never used a rivet that didn't have the post for a squeeze gun so what tools will I need for basics? I like your pneumatic rivet gun but that's over kill for me, lol.

The guinea pigs have been a lot of fun. We started with six and all of them are 'rescues,' none from the pet store. They've had a good life.

I sent you a PM...I'll post a better response to your rivet questions here, in the next few days.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Really is a good thread,thank you for your sharing
liuhan11.jpg

Thanks for the kind words! Welcome to GJ. Looking forward to seeing what you are working on.

Kev
 
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machine_punk

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The Aerodrome Studio Anniversary

Hey! I just realized that I hit the one-year anniversary of this thread a couple of days ago! Wow...has it only been a year?!?! So much has happened, since I started this thread.

Kev
 

Wingnut65

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Re: Back to the Regularly-Scheduled Program

Happy Anniversary, Kev and The Aerodrome Studio! :beer: It is fun to go back and see where it all started.

Nice work on the lighting fixture. That is some thick aluminum you are using. Not sure I would have clecos with a long enough grip for that. I'm use to plane skins to ribs and bulkheads


Nice work. Keep on bucking!
 

shopnut

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Re: Dental Light Brackets

Thanks for the reference to the rivet fan. Although I don't really have a need for one with such tight spacing, I could see something like that which spans an overall length of maybe 36" with hole spacings of 6-8" being perfect for many things I do. I suppose one of those pet/child expanding gates (like the ones used to block off a room in the house) could be repurposed to work, but it would be clumsy to use. I guess I could always make one out of metal strips, but have you ever seen a larger version of your rivet fan for sale somewhere?

Good luck with the light bracket. As I mentioned early on, make sure it's stout to hold that light in it's extended position - looks like you're headed in that direction already. It should be cool when you are done.
 
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