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Epoxy-Coat -Took the plunge " John Deere "

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Familyof8kids

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Yes you can but not all of them carry the epoxy. Some Menard's I believe can access the PPG epoxy but not 100% sure. They can order and then you would have fresh inventory.
 
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miken123

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You can get PPG at Pittsburgh Paints stores

Yeah I think Ill swing by the one a town over tomorrow. I was on my way to check out the Benjamin Moore options but they had closed.
I couldn't find any bad experiences from people with Benjamin Moore epoxies though. Not many comments at all but the few seemed positive.

I'm also still on the fence about just going without a primer. Nremember that the bond to the concrete is arguably the most important one. Am I going to trust the Epoxy-Coat product or (insert primer brand name here)? I'm still not sure!
 

Roger555

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Familyof8kids

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Yeah I think Ill swing by the one a town over tomorrow. I was on my way to check out the Benjamin Moore options but they had closed.
I couldn't find any bad experiences from people with Benjamin Moore epoxies though. Not many comments at all but the few seemed positive.

I'm also still on the fence about just going without a primer. Nremember that the bond to the concrete is arguably the most important one. Am I going to trust the Epoxy-Coat product or (insert primer brand name here)? I'm still not sure!


I stand corrected and just looked at my old spreadsheet of notes and you are correct. BM epoxy was high on my list but local shop is not liked by our town so I moved on. I did note the paint by BM was horrible but did not include another note so not sure why I had that info down.
 
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Familyof8kids

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I'll be using a primer too with my install this friday. Using this one below and also their Polyurea
http://www.garagecoatings.com/Epoxy...king-Penetrative-Epoxy-Primer-Sealer-15G.html

Familyof8kids- The Polyurea I bought has a really nice rolling technique guide which I'm sure would apply to yours also. Just thought it might be beneficial
http://www.garagecoatings.com/Product Literature/Install Guides PDF/5073 Rolling Techniques.pdf


Cost is in line and would probable see it doing 300-350 sqft. Nice tech data for a 100% solid primer. Great find on the install guide!
 
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Familyof8kids

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Just pole sanded the Aquapon 35 primer coat. Amazing how much of the fiber hairs were removed with a simple swipe of 80 grit sandpaper. I am impressed with the resistance to scratching because I was very rough with the pole and it hardly touch the Aquapon. Now that is has cured or had time to evaporate to 50% solid it shows lap marks and thicker coating badly but no bubbles and I am still happy with outcome for my purpose of application. While you all sleep I will be laying down green and yellow.
 

bamaspivey

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I stand corrected and just looked at my old spreadsheet of notes and you are correct. BM epoxy was high on my list but local shop is not liked by our town so I moved on. I did note the paint by BM was horrible but did not include another note so not sure why I had that info down.

OK, I am up where is the green floor? Guess it will wait till I get home man you got a great week to put this stuff down and I can't wait to see it.
 

miken123

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I stand corrected and just looked at my old spreadsheet of notes and you are correct. BM epoxy was high on my list but local shop is not liked by our town so I moved on. I did note the paint by BM was horrible but did not include another note so not sure why I had that info down.

Cool - thanks for double checking your notes. It helps!
 

Frank Dreb

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I stand corrected and just looked at my old spreadsheet of notes and you are correct. BM epoxy was high on my list but local shop is not liked by our town so I moved on. I did note the paint by BM was horrible but did not include another note so not sure why I had that info down.

So, since purchasing my kit I've read that a primer is really, really recommended.

The only thing I could find locally would be the Benjamin Moore Super Spec HP (P35). This would be a compatible option?

Link
 

dcs Inc

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If you are not concerned about vapor emmisions and no need for a vapor barrier epoxy then you can dilute the epoxy you are top coating with and apply that as a primer coat. I can't give you any specifics on the solvent to use or the amount because it is different with product suggestions.
 

miken123

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So, since purchasing my kit I've read that a primer is really, really recommended.

The only thing I could find locally would be the Benjamin Moore Super Spec HP (P35). This would be a compatible option?

Link

I wound up buying the Benjamin Moore P41. It is also under the Super Spec HP line but it has less % solids than the epoxy you mention and is actually the primer recommended for the P35 you mention as well.

I bought it today after talking to the guy at Benjamin Moore store who said he used it on his garage as the primer for his epoxy (he of course did a full Ben Moore epoxy system).


I bought the P41 and applied it today. Was expensive ($190+tax). I only have 400 sq ft but each set (Part A + Part B) is about $95 bucks and only goes for 325 sq ft.

I'll document my use of it in a new thread.


***FAMILY OF 8: Comon man how bout dem pics?? :) Or are you too busy celebrating?:beer:
 
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Familyof8kids

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Let start off by saying WOW I am tired but impressed with Epoxy-Coat epoxy and FOR SURE PUT DOWN A PRIMER!!!!!

It layed down like butter and had better work time than the PPG primer I used. Worked in 100 sq. ft sections and for 1 guy all alone with a radio that is max in my simple opinion.

With my own squeege and not the POS one supplied with the kit I easily pulled out my section and it was flawless to my eye. After the first backroll I notice small white circles in various spots. PIC BELOW. If I backrolled the 2nd time in the same direction it made more circles? I backrolled 5 times in the same direction and more circles! But if I backrolled it in the opposite direction all of the fisheye circles went away immediately and stayed away. Having the bright white primer below the JD green it made it very esay to see issues. SPIKE SHOES ARE A MUST!

I DO NOT recommend using yellow flakes unless you are ready for a tail kicking contest. Very hard to keep the pattern looking correct due to powerful color to eye. I am super happy with the end result and pictures make the floor look sorta patchy but in person it is very even side to side. The green flakes are tough to see when standing due to the powerful yellow flakes. I am installing a wood porch under door to kitchen so I left the floor under that soon to be porch with no flake and used the flake in the main floor area.

Sorry lighting and using mobile phone to take pictures it makes the color look different shades of green but promise everyone it is same shade and dead on JD Green!

Close up 7 hours after install

Close-Up7hoursafter.jpg



5 min after throwing flakes

5minafterthrowingflakes.jpg




Right after Squeege

AfterSqueegenotbackrolledyet.jpg



After 1 back roll

After1backrollhardtoseefisheyes.jpg




After 1 backroll - Fisheyes

Fisheyesafter1backroll.jpg



After 3 Backrolls

Backrolled3times.jpg



Immediately after throwing flakes

Immediatelyafterthrownflakes.jpg
 
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Familyof8kids

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Yes will be laying down 2 part Polyurea clear tonight!

If you guys look you will see I raised my garage door up about 12" so I could do the area below the garage door seal. I used plastic and a bunch of tape and sealed off the garage door gaps on the exterior. Since I did it at night BUGS were crazy but none got in with me. It does trap all vapors but I used a small temp. exhaust fan with a 4" outlet out my water heater vent and No fumes at all!
 
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Jabella

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That looks terrific, thank you very much for the complete documentation of your project and research, it's really helping me make my own decisions. I am curious about what you think caused the fish-eye's however. Do you think it was the primer coat?

James
 
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Familyof8kids

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I am curious about what you think caused the fish-eye's however. Do you think it was the primer coat?

James


I used a slow speed cordless drill to mix the Part A & Part B. I thought a high speed may trap air bubbles in the mix but after working with the product I know better than that happening and think it was possible non crosslink of Part A & B. I was for sure scratching my head and was wondering if one of the pros had any feedback. I was getting worried but since I had spike shoes on I was walking around and accidently back rolled from another direction then noticed no white spots? I did have one area that no white spots showed up and that 100 sq.ft. batch I did mix it for a little longer on accident. I was singing and forgot to stop and get up. 2-3 am in the morning when you are alone in the garage will make you do wierd stuff.

:lol_hitti
 

Frank Dreb

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Question about product "thickness".

So obviously one coat is sufficient for coverage.

What I'm wondering is how far could you make it go if you planned on doing two coats.

For example I have two kits @ 500 per kit but ~630 feet to cover. Could I do a "primer" coat at 50% thickness and have lots left over to do the broadcast coat?

So stretch out 300ft coverage to 600? Can it be done?

Don't mean to hijack I can ask these questions in my own thread if you'd like, as long as you stop by!
 
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Familyof8kids

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Question about product "thickness".

So obviously one coat is sufficient for coverage.

What I'm wondering is how far could you make it go if you planned on doing two coats.

For example I have two kits @ 500 per kit but ~630 feet to cover. Could I do a "primer" coat at 50% thickness and have lots left over to do the broadcast coat?

So stretch out 300ft coverage to 600? Can it be done?

Don't mean to hijack I can ask these questions in my own thread if you'd like, as long as you stop by!

No bother to myself for you to ask since this thread is getting a lot of eyes and could help but if you title a new thread with Epoxy-Coat Coverage Question then we could help others with info.
 
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Familyof8kids

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Well now I am a little upset. Pictures will say it for me. Now got to get another tool to scrap them off. 100's of them in the yellow only.


JunkinChips1.jpg



Junkinchips2.jpg



JunkinChips3.jpg
 

winmck

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That's a great looking floor (minus the yellow nuggets). You wouldn't happen to be an engineer in your day job?
 
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Familyof8kids

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Yes. You cannot tell can you? I had many send me PM's and ask they could hire me as a consultant for a product they sell or want to move forward. LOL
 

hammlm

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Well now I am a little upset. Pictures will say it for me. Now got to get another tool to scrap them off. 100's of them in the yellow only.


JunkinChips1.jpg



Junkinchips2.jpg



JunkinChips3.jpg

Wha???? Those look like those little dried up pills that my kids get at tthe dentist that when you add water, they expand. Or like a dried sponge. I'd be a little upset, too. Definite WTF!'!?!?!?!!
 

miken123

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Oye... I'm sure you can recover from this given your perseverance and knack but yeah that's really a gut wrencher... Epoxy-Coat has not done me wrong (haven't applied their product but they have been helpful and quick to reply when i had a few questions) but they really do owe you a 'make it right' sort of deal on that...
 
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Familyof8kids

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I thought you sorted all the flakes out into different bags?

During my sorting I only poured from the supplied EC bags into a clean bucket and turned that bucket into another bucket and then back to the first bucket to mix yellow with green flakes. After the bucket looked like a true mix I then poured into ziplock bags and weighed the bag out to 1/2 pounds each. When tossing the flakes onto the floor I did not feel anything wierd or chunks but clearly shows I had some unwanted friends. I would just clear over but several chunks are taller than clear coat will be thick.
 

xrdad

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Floor looks amazing OP!

EC did you well for colour! The 'nuggets' are a shame, but just cut them off with a razor before you do the clear and be done with it?

Your likely over critical of your own work... like a lot us here :eek:
99% of your garage guests will never notice or will just look at you funny when you tell them "it ain't perfect".

I'm looking forward to your opinion of the poly with anti skid... to see if you get the same feeling I did.
 

K13

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Those nuggets look like it might be powdered flake at the bottom of the bag that got exposed to humidity and clumped together.

Nice job on the write up and installation!! Really top notch. Your color choice makes me a bit woozy but it's not mine so.....:D
 

csp

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Let start off by saying WOW I am tired but impressed with Epoxy-Coat epoxy and FOR SURE PUT DOWN A PRIMER!!!!!

I'm interested in this statement. On what basis do you say for sure put down a primer if you haven't ever put down an epoxy without one?

I'm not saying a primer is a bad idea, but it seems that there's a trend in this forum that it's a requirement for a good finish. I wonder how many countless people have had success without a primer. I only personally know of two floors, mine and my dad's, but I'm sure there are more. I've seen several documented on this site that haven't had any problems. That's what led me to Epoxy Coat to begin with.

Glad to see that you're happy with your resuilts, nonetheless! It looks good.
 
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Familyof8kids

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I'm interested in this statement. On what basis do you say for sure put down a primer if you haven't ever put down an epoxy without one?


Good question. I am only documenting my experience for what little worth it is to others while installing the Epoxy-Coat system. Being an engineer it is in my blood to find direct solutions for issues known or discussed and we all know this site (including my post here) talks about issues sometime more than success. The quality of the 50% solids primer I used by no means was even close to the Epoxy-Coat epoxy quality and I can see no primer may work for 99% of the installs and possibly mine. I am trying to show my success and steps of how I achieved it. My statement was to use a primer and at the moment I can only keep suggesting that since that is my experience. I also heard it from several other PROS on this site and not a single PRO told me to skip primer except the MFG. I try to listen to the guy that screwed it up many times and now knows better (Pro) but again if Epoxy-Coat said it needs a primer I may have also looked at another flooring option.
 

dcs Inc

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Some epoxies are self priming, some are not. In either case when applying a thicker application it only makes since to prime to help against any out gassing of the concrete and causing bubbles in your "money" coat. If the installer preps his concrete correctly and leaves the recommended surface profile, the concrete is very open and porous allowing the epoxy to wick deep into the surface. You loose the dry (mil) thickness due to this. The thicker the epoxy above the surface, the longer surface wear you will get out of it. The better the wicking or saturation of the epoxy, the less chance of it ever pealing up.
 

rugerlady

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Glad your floor turned out nice! I do love the color! I have been doing this quite a while and have not seen those kind of chunks in the flake before. Are they a mass of flakes all stuck together? I can't tell. Let me know if I need to do anything to help you with this.
 

dcs Inc

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If you are going to apply a clear protective top coat you will need to do a good scraping to dislodge any loose chips. That would get rid of these chunks. I'm wondering if its the manufacturer of the chips not slicing properly.... I've never seen this.
 
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Familyof8kids

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Floor is finished. Epoxy-Coat Polyurea top coat has been down now 24 hours. Wow what a difference with the Polyurea. I thought the Epoxy had a shine to it but for sure does now. I mixed in 5 table spoons of H&C SHARKGRIP in the 3 gallons of Polyurea and it is just enough for TN weather but I would suggest much more if you plan on water being on your floor alot. I did the topcoat in sections of 10x10.

You can see the shine with and without Polyurea. It dried with the same shine. Pictures cannot even capture how deep the clear looks in person. Polyurea change the color of the chips and I like it better for sure now.

Any questions ask away.



withandwithoutpolyurea1-1.jpg




My mixing station. This area will be under a wood platform and stairs. That is why no flakes.


Supplies-1.jpg




I used my floor jack and slightly raised my built in workbench just enough to slide in a nut so coating would slide under the post.

setonnut-2.jpg





So glad I did a top coat!

Perfection-2.jpg




10 min after install of Polyurea. No trash in coating it just looks like it a little due to reflection off of everything.


10minafter-1.jpg




Close up so you can see the little ******* coming up from the coating. That is the H&C SHARKGRIP floating to the top. I mixed it in when doing the Part A & Part B mixing.

antislip-2.jpg
 
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Familyof8kids

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Once you get your clear coat on you won't notice. Are you using aluminum oxide?


No I thought the pieces were too large. I have used H&C SHARKGRIP for many years in common floor wax over VCT and other surfaces. SHARKGRIP is small and light so it floats to the surface and can be sprayed or rolled out.
 
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Familyof8kids

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If you are going to apply a clear protective top coat you will need to do a good scraping to dislodge any loose chips. That would get rid of these chunks. I'm wondering if its the manufacturer of the chips not slicing properly.... I've never seen this.


It was for sure not chips stuck together. It is solid hunks of paint. I wished I knew how they sliced out paint flakes. It was no fun at all scraping them up. I had a few I missed and they slightly stick above the topcoat clear but very minor now.
 
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