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Car service ramps

Keyblazer

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That is nice. Assume that you just leave it setup and park on it at night.

You could... I just use them for whatever I am working on, at this time it is the Alfa.
Unless your vehicle is super low, the ramps are only about 3" thinck, so you could pull the pin out of the front riser, and lay them flat and together and park over them.

I could not find their website... maybe they went under...
 
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alan camby

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You could... I just use them for whatever I am working on, at this time it is the Alfa.
Unless your vehicle is super low, the ramps are only about 3" thinck, so you could pull the pin out of the front riser, and lay them flat and together and park over them.

I could not find their website... maybe they went under...

They are out of business.
 

Zengineer

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No.

For stability reasons all cars are going to have AT LEAST 51% of the weight up front. Otherwise the car will be (at best) neutral when braking or (most likely) incur HUGE OVERSTEER (aka the *** end will want to come around) and be impossible to control under hard breaking.

You didn't measure the full weight on the front axle, but only a portion because the car was, in fact, acting as a class II lever, and the rear axle was still supporting the weight of the car.

A rough and easy way to see how much weight is up front (although not 100% accurate) is to look at the load rating of the tire. Each tire has to support (approx) 25% of the load, so if your two front tires are rated at 1250 @ 32PSI than you can safely say that your front end is supporting LESS than 2500lbs.

Its a rough and dirty number, but will get you close.

This post is making some huge generalizations that are very much incomplete, inaccurate or insane. Not sure I need to correct, but I can see someone getting hurt otherwise.

Lots of cars have a rear weight bias (Porsche 911, Toyota MR2, Lotus Elise, half the cars Ferrari has made, every formula car built in the past 40 years) Having driven more than a few of these, I'd call them quite possible to control under hard braking.

Tire load ratings are a terrible method to judge actual loads on the tires. At best, you could determine a maximum axle weight with this method, but not an accurate axle weight. I've got tires on my pickup truck (for example) that can carry a maximum of 3200lbs each. By this method, you would estimate my truck weight at 12800lbs total. In truth, its actually around 5000lbs.
 

pfarber

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This post is making some huge generalizations that are very much incomplete, inaccurate or insane. Not sure I need to correct, but I can see someone getting hurt otherwise.

Lots of cars have a rear weight bias (Porsche 911, Toyota MR2, Lotus Elise, half the cars Ferrari has made, every formula car built in the past 40 years) Having driven more than a few of these, I'd call them quite possible to control under hard braking.

Tire load ratings are a terrible method to judge actual loads on the tires. At best, you could determine a maximum axle weight with this method, but not an accurate axle weight. I've got tires on my pickup truck (for example) that can carry a maximum of 3200lbs each. By this method, you would estimate my truck weight at 12800lbs total. In truth, its actually around 5000lbs.

Those are SPORTS CARS. High performance designs built in small quantities. A FORMULA car is not on the road with little Timmy in the back seat.

The MR2 has a limited production run of 130,000 in the US over 10 years. Hardly a typical car that most people would drive.

Your trying to compare purpose designed high performance sports cars with general transportation vehicles is LAUGHABLE and shows a complete lack of understanding of the topic.
You really mean to compare 'every FORMULA 1 RACE CAR' to general transportation vehicles? I guess you should stop reading Motor Trend and look around at whats on the road.

As for the the weight on the axles what part of 'quick and dirty' is confusing? I never said 'exact', 'to the ounce', I meant what I said... general transport vehicles will have a specified tire to hold the weight of the car. If your load rating on the side wall is 1250lbs per tire than you can safely assume that the front end is seeing less than 2500 (1250 x 2) otherwise the tires would not be able to legally be supplied by the manufacturer. Again, QUICK AND DIRTY.

I have yet to see a car who's tires were rated at less than the weight of the cat when added up. My 12,500 truck has 10 tires. Each one is rated at 1500lbs at 55psi. So I can say that the front end weighs LESS than 3,000lbs. Is it EXACTLY 3000lbs on the front axles? No, I never said it was. But it sure as **** isn't 4,000.

I'll even throw this out: Modern cars have brake proportioning valves that bias the front over the rear brakes for the same reasons I pointed out... understeer (nose heavy) is good, and oversteer (tail heavy) is bad. NHTSA has sued a few manufacturers over unsafe brake setups.
 

adam728

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Those are SPORTS CARS. High performance designs built in small quantities. A FORMULA car is not on the road with little Timmy in the back seat.

The MR2 has a limited production run of 130,000 in the US over 10 years. Hardly a typical car that most people would drive.

Your trying to compare purpose designed high performance sports cars with general transportation vehicles is LAUGHABLE and shows a complete lack of understanding of the topic.
You really mean to compare 'every FORMULA 1 RACE CAR' to general transportation vehicles? I guess you should stop reading Motor Trend and look around at whats on the road.

As for the the weight on the axles what part of 'quick and dirty' is confusing? I never said 'exact', 'to the ounce', I meant what I said... general transport vehicles will have a specified tire to hold the weight of the car. If your load rating on the side wall is 1250lbs per tire than you can safely assume that the front end is seeing less than 2500 (1250 x 2) otherwise the tires would not be able to legally be supplied by the manufacturer. Again, QUICK AND DIRTY.

I have yet to see a car who's tires were rated at less than the weight of the cat when added up. My 12,500 truck has 10 tires. Each one is rated at 1500lbs at 55psi. So I can say that the front end weighs LESS than 3,000lbs. Is it EXACTLY 3000lbs on the front axles? No, I never said it was. But it sure as **** isn't 4,000.

I'll even throw this out: Modern cars have brake proportioning valves that bias the front over the rear brakes for the same reasons I pointed out... understeer (nose heavy) is good, and oversteer (tail heavy) is bad. NHTSA has sued a few manufacturers over unsafe brake setups.

What if you have a dualie and use your tire-load-rating estimate? Is the back nearly twice as heavy as the front?

What about my stripped out wheeling truck I used to have, ~2900 lb truck with Swampers that were rated at 3,195 lbs each? And yes, I could run REALLY low tire pressures on that thing.

My stock TJ scaled 3600 lbs, the stock tire load rating was about 2K each, which puts your estimate at 4000 lbs, when in reality there was about 1800 lbs on the front axle (and 4 banger, hard top TJ's are actually rear-weight biased).

My LeSabre should weigh in around 3500 lbs, yet the tire estimate would put 3200 lbs on just the front axle. Wife's car is about the same, 3200 lbs per axle by tire rating, but whole car only weighs 3300 lbs or so.

Just saying, using tire load rating is going to be WAY over-estimating the weight on most vehicles. Not that way overbuilding ramps/stands is in anyway a bad thing.


By the way, what truck in the world runs (I'm assuming) tandem rear axles with dualies and has P-series tires up front?
 
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alan camby

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Besides some clean up work and adding some kind of bracket mount to connect to the ramps, this stand is done.

day6ramps007_zpsd0760acc.jpg
 

Davo J

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Ramps are looking great and look strong enough to me. Those welds will definitely hold it together.


Dave
 

born lucky

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Nice job. The ramps should serve you well and many others after you. My problem would be storage ,my gargae would not be able to store them.
 

BoostAddiction

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No.

For stability reasons all cars are going to have AT LEAST 51% of the weight up front. Otherwise the car will be (at best) neutral when braking or (most likely) incur HUGE OVERSTEER (aka the *** end will want to come around) and be impossible to control under hard breaking.

Stupid Generalization alert!

Of course "all" cars don't have front weight bias. See Porsche 911, Boxster, Cayman, air cooled VW Beetle, and a host of many others.

And of course, most all race cars, especially the mid-engined ones. Most of them seem to manage to brake pretty hard without a loss of control, either.
 

amolaver

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Those are SPORTS CARS. High performance designs built in small quantities. A FORMULA car is not on the road with little Timmy in the back seat.

The MR2 has a limited production run of 130,000 in the US over 10 years. Hardly a typical car that most people would drive.

Your trying to compare purpose designed high performance sports cars with general transportation vehicles is LAUGHABLE and shows a complete lack of understanding of the topic.
You really mean to compare 'every FORMULA 1 RACE CAR' to general transportation vehicles? I guess you should stop reading Motor Trend and look around at whats on the road.

As for the the weight on the axles what part of 'quick and dirty' is confusing? I never said 'exact', 'to the ounce', I meant what I said... general transport vehicles will have a specified tire to hold the weight of the car. If your load rating on the side wall is 1250lbs per tire than you can safely assume that the front end is seeing less than 2500 (1250 x 2) otherwise the tires would not be able to legally be supplied by the manufacturer. Again, QUICK AND DIRTY.

I have yet to see a car who's tires were rated at less than the weight of the cat when added up. My 12,500 truck has 10 tires. Each one is rated at 1500lbs at 55psi. So I can say that the front end weighs LESS than 3,000lbs. Is it EXACTLY 3000lbs on the front axles? No, I never said it was. But it sure as **** isn't 4,000.

I'll even throw this out: Modern cars have brake proportioning valves that bias the front over the rear brakes for the same reasons I pointed out... understeer (nose heavy) is good, and oversteer (tail heavy) is bad. NHTSA has sued a few manufacturers over unsafe brake setups.


err, ZENGINEER contradicted your generalization with facts. your angry response doesn't change the fact that you're wrong. using tire load ratings as a method to determine vehicle weight is simply not useful. the correct method is go to a truck stop and get on their scales. will cost less than $20 and you'll have REAL numbers. or find any serious amateur racer and get on their scales.

while F/R weight bias CAN cause understeer, its a hell of a lot easier by just dialing in a little toe in to the rear. hell, with just toe adjustment, you can make a car pull to one direction while accelerating, pull the other under braking, understeer turning one way, and wildly oversteer turning the other. never mind the permutations when you add camber and caster. hell, a modern 911 understeers pretty severely largely because of alignment while having a rear weight bias.

and, for the record, 'formula car' encompasses a LOT more than 'formula one' cars. ever see a formula ford? formula vee? atlantic? indy lights / indy? all 'formula' cars.

if you're going to ENGINEER a set of ramps, you need to work with accurate numbers (plus appropriate safety factors). using a maximum OEM tire rating is actually probably not a bad idea (from the heaviest vehicle you'll put on the ramps). but implying that it is representative of ACTUAL weight is silly. especially when people replace the OEM tire with whatever the cheapest used tire they can find on the side of the road mounts on the wheel..or put aftermarket 24 wheels/tires on..or puts 19.5 or 22.5 on their one tons.. better to look in the doorjamb for OEM axle ratings.

and the reason proportioning valves are used in brake systems is that when you apply the brakes, traction dramatically increases at the front (and diminishes at the rear), making the front able to support a much higher fraction of the of braking force than the rear. understeer/oversteer imply a turning moment. braking in a straight line should not induce any turning forces unless your brakes are deranged. proportioning valves are used to reduce stopping distance, nothing really to do with under/oversteer (outside of a race car where trail braking technique may prefer bias adjustments).

all that said, OP - your ramps look nicely made. should serve you well for a long time. curious if you've seen rhino ramps. plastic ramps that can support about 3K lb ea (6K pair). not knocking your work/effort, just curious. i've used them extensively and am impressed. i use one at a time to change flats on my trailer when its fully loaded (~13K lb) - lifting one wheel, leaving the others airborne and as a pair to do basic service work on everything from golf carts to my one ton dually (~8K lb and yes, i have a weight ticket for it).

ahm
 
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alan camby

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all that said, OP - your ramps look nicely made. should serve you well for a long time. curious if you've seen rhino ramps. plastic ramps that can support about 3K lb ea (6K pair). not knocking your work/effort, just curious. i've used them extensively and am impressed. i use one at a time to change flats on my trailer when its fully loaded (~13K lb) - lifting one wheel, leaving the others airborne and as a pair to do basic service work on everything from golf carts to my one ton dually (~8K lb and yes, i have a weight ticket for it).

ahm

ahm,

Yes I have used the Rhino ramps. One thing I was looking for in a ramp was some height. The Rhinos are around 6.5". The ones i am making are 11.5" of vehicle lift.
FYI: Some of the new Rhinos are rated at 16,000 lbs per set.


The tallest ramps that I could find were the approx $300 Race Ramps at 10" tall.
They are rated at 3000lbs for the standard version. Something I did not know and assume most others don't either, Race Ramps will custom manufacturer ramps that are rated for 5000lbs per set. Found a company that stocks these called Reverse Logic http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLogicLimited/Ramps.html
Very nice and I don't have anything to say that is negative about the product accept for the price, around $370. But these are excellent alternatives to making your own.

I am not planning to go over 3000lbs on mine. Heaviest vehicles I will consider lifting will be 1/2 ton trucks.
 
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amolaver

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ahh - missed the height difference. i wouldn't mind a couple of extra inches (who would :) ) but the rhinos work well enough for $40. which, frankly, was a surprise. took a bunch of use before i really trusted them - they are PLASTIC after all. the raceramps stuff is SUPER nice - a couple of fellow racers use them - but DAMN are they pricey. i'm sure you've got significant cost in steel in yours, but they are EXACTLY what you need, not just good enough. :)

i know you mentioned herculiner i think on the bottom of them to minimize/eliminate slipping on the floor. you may consider spraying the 'rungs' as well - the metal may be slippery if they or the tires are wet. or possibly grip tape although i'm not sure how durable that would be. hell, some sand dribbled into wet paint might work well. i know my aluminum ramp door is slippery as hell when its wet... maybe some 2 part epoxy with sand mixed in?

ahm
 
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alan camby

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Thought I would make a post of some of the other options out there that I considered besides the Race Ramps in my last post and the Ramps4cars.

-WR-7K 7000 lb aluminum ramp http://www.discountramps.com/wheel-risers.htm
These are made to support heavy, light duty trucks and maybe some medium duty.
My concern was the ramp angle. While great for trucks, the angle might be to steep for some cars. Seems like a very high quality product and would be overbuilt for me with the 7000lb capacity. The price is also very high but, if needed, these would be great for a truck shop.


-the Mini-lift
http://www.discountramps.com/sports_car_ramps.htm
These were my second choice after the race ramps. These are made in the USA and seem like a great looking ramp. Was a little concerned that the aluminum might crack after years of hard use. Don't own a spool gun...yet;)... so would have no way to repair them myself.
The manufacture would not get back with me on the specs. Discount ramps shows these at 7" of lift height and the manufacturer's site shows 10". Without knowing they are 10", this is a deal breaker.


-CR-7214 http://www.discountramps.com/car-repair-ramps.htm
These would have been my first choice. All of my research is showing these as made in China. Would have still considered them if i could have seen them in person. Was concerned about the quality of the welds and construction. Once again, have no way of fixing cracked welds in aluminum at this point in time.

Maybe this info will help someone.
Alan
 
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alan camby

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ahh - missed the height difference. i wouldn't mind a couple of extra inches (who would :) ) but the rhinos work well enough for $40. which, frankly, was a surprise. took a bunch of use before i really trusted them - they are PLASTIC after all. the raceramps stuff is SUPER nice - a couple of fellow racers use them - but DAMN are they pricey. i'm sure you've got significant cost in steel in yours, but they are EXACTLY what you need, not just good enough. :)

i know you mentioned herculiner i think on the bottom of them to minimize/eliminate slipping on the floor. you may consider spraying the 'rungs' as well - the metal may be slippery if they or the tires are wet. or possibly grip tape although i'm not sure how durable that would be. hell, some sand dribbled into wet paint might work well. i know my aluminum ramp door is slippery as hell when its wet... maybe some 2 part epoxy with sand mixed in?

ahm

I have around $130 worth of steel in the project. Checked 3 steel vendors in my area. A place called "Kroot" in Columbus, IN beat everyone else by $40.

Had to fill my 80 cubic foot 75/25 argon/co2 tank the other day for $25. Sure there are more then a couple pounds of welding wire in it.

Unless I go powder coat, the project should be under $200.
 

aka Larry

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I'd be interested to see the weight of those beasts. Obviously they are well built, but damn they look like a bear to have to move around.
 
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alan camby

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I'd be interested to see the weight of those beasts. Obviously they are well built, but damn they look like a bear to have to move around.

Yeah, this is a concern. I built them a little heavier then first planned for the extra security.

Originally I was only going to add the one vertical brace per side to the stand, just like the first 3 ramps in the first post.

At least they are in two pieces so that I can carry the ramp separate from the stand.

The stand is right at 32lb and the ramp is right at 50lbs. I had fun holding them while standing on the bathroom scale:lol:

Thanks
 
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alan camby

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Working on the coupling mechanism today.

Wanted it to be safe while on the creeper under the car, nothing sharp sticking out to hit my head on no mater if the ramp is connected or not to the stand. Also, wanted to be able to store the ramps vertically. I have had many thought over the last few days on how best to go about this and wanted to keep it simple.

This is what i came up with. Had some internally threaded nylon knobs that are molded over brass threads. Drilled and tapped both the ramp and stand. The bracket will stay with the ramp and will swing over the knob on the stand. Just a few turns of the knob and the latch is locked into the c-channel. I can adjust the tension on the latch bracket with the nylon insert lock nut. Would like to get some spring wave washers, also called a Belleville washer, and put them under the bracket on the ramp side. These will provide resistance and keep the bracket in a vertical position, horizontal when ramp is vertical, and keep the bracket out of the way while the ramp is in vertical storage.
Did any of that make since ?:lol:

rampsday7002_zpsa1473a0d.jpg


rampsday7001_zps9d5804d8.jpg
 
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alan camby

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What would hurt more to hit your head on, imagine that the ramp is disconnected, the black plastic knob or the bracket in the down position??? :headscrat

I could use the bracket in the picture above on the other side of the stand and change the design so that the braket stays with the stand.

The only thing different would be which side I mount the bracket on. Guess I can swap them at any time.
 

amolaver

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why not something that goes underneath the two pieces? sorry for the crudeness, but something the attached shape could be welded to the ramps or kept separately and doesn't protrude outside the footprint of the ramp/stand at all..

ahm
 

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alan camby

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It is important that the ramp and stand float independently of each other.
This way when you get to the top of the stand, the ramp will not bind up due to a floor that is not perfectly flat.

I am happy now with the setup. I ended up swapping the brackets, making the stand the permanent home of the bracket. The stand and ramp seem to be moving independently without binding while the bracket is doing its job of keeping the two pieces together.


This way I can stand the ramp up for vertical storage without the mounting bracket getting in the way.
rampsday7003_zps3aa479ba.jpg



The bracket will swing down when disconnected. Edit: since this photo I gound out the top weld above the bracket on the stand and rewelded.
rampsday7002_zps21c09e7a.jpg

rampsday7006_zps2af64bae.jpg
 
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tomshep

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I would want some sort of a lip on the back edge of the stand to prevent the vehicle from rolling back, especially after the ramp is removed. It could be something you could pin in place after getting the vehicle up so it wouldn't be an issue to drive over.

I like the design and they will definately be worthwhile for many years to come.

I use Rhino ramps and they are really good for the cost.

Tom
 
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alan camby

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I'd be interested to see the weight of those beasts. Obviously they are well built, but damn they look like a bear to have to move around.

Larry,

I had some curiosities about my ramp and stand weights also.
A few posts back I said that my ramp weights 50lb (or 22.7Kg) and my stands weigh 32lb (14.5kg)

I asked Andy at ramps4cars about the weights of his "Low angle" and "extra high" HD removable car ramps (removable meaning, ramp and removable stand design).
Both of his are the exact same length. The only difference is the height, "Low angle" is 300mm(11.8") and the extra high is 350mm(13.8") at the platform. Since the height changes and the length does not, the angle is less on the "low angle".
See the specs on his here. http://www.ramps4cars.co.uk/car_ramps.html

One bit of info that is missing from the specs, IMO, are the weights. So I sent a email.
Like always, Andy replied to my email quickly. Here are the highlights of the email.

my customers prefer a heavier ramp.....knowing it's heavy duty.

The weight of the removable car ramps are as follows, these weights do vary dependent on modifications

Low angle
Stand 12kg (approx) Packaged @ 24kg for the pair
Ramp 20kg (approx) Packaged @ 40 kg for the pair


Extra High
Stand 14kg (approx) Packaged @ 28kg for the pair
Ramp 22kg (approx) Packaged @ 44 kg for the pair

On occasions Ramps go through some modifications to material/design based on customer requests or recommendations/feedback.

My ramps are closer to the "low angle" design since my height is around 292mm (11.5").

A lot of the weigth difference comes from him using a smaller size angle iron for the tire rungs. He explained that he does this for a easier climb up the ramp.

Remember, this is the weights of his 3000Kg (6614lb) rated, per pair, ramps. I would assume that he could build a lighter ramp if all you needed was a 2000kg (4409 lb) ramp set.
 
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neonnblack

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You guys really know how to **** up a good thread. Keep it out of Alan's. His ramps are fine and could probably support nearly anything you throw at it.
 
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alan camby

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Hello everyone:)

I have been updating the first few posts over the last few days. Have not bumped the thread though.

Made a lot of progress today. Tacked up the last ramp and finished welding everything, yes everything. well....sort of. guess I am depressed that the fun is coming to a end. Soooooo........
Had 12 foot of angle iron left. Wish that I would have been out, but I got a bright idea and decided to use the last 12' to gusset the ramp portion. Finished one ramp, still need to cut the last two 3' sections for the last ramp.

Picked up some KBC coating in gloss black(pretty much the same thing as por-15) and decided to use that for the paint. Just like the Por-15, this stuff is a primer. Since the ramps will see very little UV, there will not be a topcoat. The stands fit in my blast cabinet. The ramps will be sent out for sandblasting.


First, the c-clamps that i got for Christmas. Here wait .......that does not go in this thread :) :)
rampsday9001_zps79ce31ff.jpg


Last ramp tacked up
rampsday9006_zps2021eb04.jpg


Here is the brace that i added. It is angle steel. So, the other part is against the ramp rungs.
rampsday9010_zpsef347be5.jpg



Took about 12 pictures. Most were pretty bad. This is the best one of the top of the ramps together. The one on the right has the added brace.
rampsday9012_zpsb26fc221.jpg


Going to add a few more pictures to my 3rd or 4th post in the thread.
 
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alan camby

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Going to try and have the ramps sandblasted tomorrow. Thought I would pull the truck up on them to check them out and to let the ice melt out of the bed of the truck. First time the truck has been in the garage for a good month.

rampsday11007_zps8a0c13d0.jpg


pulled the ramps away from the stands. I will hook up my latch mechanism for the ramp and stands once the ramp is painted.
rampsday11018_zpsa11e6827.jpg


Here is the only thing that I am not liking. The center of the tire is behind the center line of the stand. Obviously the tire size will determine where the tire sits on the stand. Curious now where the tire will be with the smaller Cavalier tires.
I might end up cutting down the height of the tire stop to allow the truck to pull forward more. My stands are much longer then what the ramp industry typically uses. From the rear ( I am considering the rear the same as the vehicles rear) of the stand to the tire stop is 16.625". For example, Race Ramps are 10" from the rear of the stand to the start of their angled tire stop.
Even if I draw a imaginary line that is 45 degrees from the top of my tire stop, to the stand top, the stand is still over 13" long.

The tire stop is just a hair over 3" over the height of the stand. I came up with this height by studying other car ramp designs. 3" is about as tall as they come. Like i said, might lower this though.

Here is the picture in question. The right side of the square is the center of the tire.
rampsday11021_zps3980e6b7.jpg


I will update my 4th post with more pictures of the progress.

Thanks for looking :)
 
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alan camby

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By the way. I pulled the truck up on the stands/ramps in 2wd. I stopped several times to check my ceiling clearance. The ramps never budged and my wet snowy tires never slipped on the rungs.
 

Hammer1963

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I am very impressed with theses stands and ramps. I have no doubt that they will hold most any vehicle. Good penetration on the welds. Your garage/shop is ultra clean. I'm very jealous of that !
 
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alan camby

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Location
South of Indianapolis, Indiana
I am very impressed with theses stands and ramps. I have no doubt that they will hold most any vehicle. Good penetration on the welds. Your garage/shop is ultra clean. I'm very jealous of that !

Thanks,
It is hard to keep the garage clean when i have so much stuff and only 23'x23'
of floor space.
Need to move some stuff, like the pressure washer, to the basement for the winter. Of coarse the ramps will be taking up room.:willy_nil
The only thing that saves me is a walk out basement utility room and a mini-barn for the lawn equipment.
I keep my press, generator, and some other less used items down stairs.
 

IHI

Banned
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
464
Location
Iowa
Why dont you cut it off and reweld it at an angle?

Winner winner chicken dinner. Better yet, make them adjustible with 3/8" quick pins so the wheel chokes can be adjusted for 14" rims to 18" rims and still end up with the wheel centered on the stand.
 

neonnblack

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
4,913
Location
Reno, NV
And i second IHI, if you make it adjustable it wont matter what car it is, you can move it. Just a suggestion though.
 

IHI

Banned
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
464
Location
Iowa
Every time I see IHI i think of my dads old employer. Industrial Hydraulics incorporated.

Look at the top of their homepage, It is your new avatar
http://www.ihi-indy.com/

LOL, well not quite, was the name of my business I had for little over 20yrs before I closed shop a few yrs ago...thought I had a logo on this computer but I dont.
Trailerdecal.jpg


EDIT:
found one that I had on the side of my nephews jr dragster..color for his combo, all my work trucks were red LOL
July_2008_068.jpg
 
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OP
A

alan camby

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
1,566
Location
South of Indianapolis, Indiana
Received my ramps back today from sandblast and powdercoat. Was going to just have them sandblasted but the guy at the powdercoat place said he could paint them for the same price as just sandblasting them. $80 for everything.

Here they are back at the ranch.
rampsfinished021_zps5eaaa8a0.jpg


Here you can see my modification of the tire stop. It was at 3" tall, now at 2.25" and it features a eccentric that makes it adjustable. In the picture it is adjusted to the center down position, which will be the default.
rampsfinished002_zpsc2badf0e.jpg


truck on the ramps
rampsfinished035_zpse116bead.jpg



more pics in a few
 
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