You, my friend, are getting hosed.
This might turn into a pennywise, pound foolish scenario once you factor in the price to rebuild your engine...![]()
Oil is the last thing I'm going to cheap out on... But then again, I have a severe aversion to rebuilding engines in my own vehicles.
Same here. I don't buy some no name brand oil. I do my homework and buy oil based on my findings. However... That doesn't mean I'm going to buy oil at the auto store when I can get the same thing half price somewhere else
I mean shoot my filter costs almost as much as my oil does... Amsoil EA15k12. Good oil is great, but I don't want to lose the benefits because there is some misc particle floating around that's larger than my bearing tolerances
4.2qts / 5qt jug @ $25... $21 spent on oil, $18 on the filter
OE (ACDelco) parts too. Some might say I'm getting hosed but then, my 20 year old truck is still runnin' down the road. Original engine, transmission (4L60E which I'm told by many is worthless
) and rear end... I think I might just keep doing what I'm doing I run Pennzoil Ultra synthetic and my car loves it.
You are correct, a UOA should be done beforehand and I should probably update my UOA from a year ago. I have a Honda J35, which is probably one of the easiest motors on oil since Honda designs motors with proper bearing sizes and clearances.
You all can nerd out about base stocks and such as much as you want, but there are many BITOG users taking the standard Mobil 1 to 10k and the M1EP to 15k, so I'm not in the minority here. If I could acquire Amsoil at better prices, I would consider them, but it's not really the case here (or I assume anywhere).