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45x60 HARN Construction Nearly Complete 100 pics

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luke7734

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Jun 11, 2013
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Crestline, Ohio
Goodness it's been a minute since I've gotten anything posted up on here.. well.. house has been awesome so far this summer. And I've been trying to catch up on all my outdoor projects this spring / summer.
I've gotten my leech field seeded and re-seeded.. Planted a garden. . Moved my camper inside the garage to get some unwinterizing / cleaning done to it.. and sold my old cummins :( but I got a new one!

So.. Here's a few random pics to kinda see what I've been up to..
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Amazing how small the garage gets with this thing inside..
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Bye bye old girl.. 7 great years!
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The new cummins..
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And lots of yard sitting / drinking.. Gotta love the country life.
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
Awesome MACHINE :drool:

Love love love it! I flew to NY to get it. Dealership had it listed 10k below book online. I printed the listed immediately. They honored it.
2011 3/4 ton Laramie Longhorn megacab. I've officially become an old man.. but I love it..


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Diesel Dan

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TN
And lots of yard sitting / drinking.. Gotta love the country life.

Oh man, the HOA is gonna be on you for not painting the kids play fort!

Place is looking good BTW.

What type of septic field did you need for your area?
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
Oh man, the HOA is gonna be on you for not painting the kids play fort!

Place is looking good BTW.

What type of septic field did you need for your area?

HOA... hahaha. Thanks though. .

Septic was very simple (minus it took around $2800 in permits and soil tests and site approvals before I could do any digging..)
It's a newer system designed by a local company ( Norwalk Concrete aka.. NORWECO)
The pieces are open bottom abs plastic. They have vented sides and center support columns to keep it from crushing under load. You just dig a 2' wide trench to required lengths ( 2 runs 179' each for me ) and the pieces are 2' wide X 4' long X 8" tall.. they just snap together end to end.. very simple.. no stone.. dirt backfill.. then you install end caps and put in 4" pvc inspection ports at each end. Took me and a buddy about 3 hours with the mini hoe..
Here's a few pics of the 2 extra pieces on my shelving..

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And a shot looking through the middle..
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The stuff is tough as hell.. I've been over it with my skid steer and had no issues.. it's 14" deep trenches with 6" of cover over the field. Pretty sweet system. And it's apples to apples price wise without needing stone and straw or mesh etc..

Oooo.. found a pic of the install..

That's my buddy Louis with the grade stick.. i don't get out of the machine unless I have to.. lol..

Ps. I recommend a flat bucket.. no teeth.. hard to find one 24" though.. stupid
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
I'm guessing you're still using a regular septic tank inline before these ?

Yeah Eric, I wanna say a 3000 gallon tank. With an aerator in it.. it has 3 cells in the tank. Settling / aeration / clarification.. then a filter.
Also since my tank is lower than the field the effluent from the tank goes into a sump tank and is pumped up to the distribution box. (2 hp stainless sump pump ) pretty easy to install.. i had to do the lift station to keep enough fall for the house when we eventually get it built.

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Diesel Dan

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Nice, my clay heavy soil won't allow me to use chambers.
Plus if your soil will support a leach bed/trench system the local HD will not give you length credits for using the chambers. One of the pluses for using chambers is less linear feet but if they call for 200' of tile you need to put down 200' of chambers.

I have a 36" toothed bucket for my backhoe and going to use a section of old dozer cutting edge to attach to the teeth to make a smooth bucket.
 
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luke7734

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Dan.
I was gonna do the same to the 24" bucket with an old snow plow blade, but it was a rent a hoe from sunbelt.

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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
Well.. I've been thinking about running wire for a welder to go in between my garage doors since I've had the first piece of ground moved. So with my camping trips for the summer quickly approaching, I decided to get r done.

With a quick trip to the hardware store for a wall plug, conduit, and a 50 amp double pull breaker... and a stop at the local surplus store to grab some 6 GA wire.. (I know it's all the same color, I coded it before hand) i was finally able to get the job done.

Didn't get to snap a shot of the finished conduit job but here's what my plug job looked like.
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Pulling the wire was quite the job, but not too bad. I only went a total of about 35' (wire) and it's only about 15' from my panel. I did have to drill out the wood behind my garage door tracks to run the conduit (I'll get a picture of the conduit job later)
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And yay! I've now got a hand me down Lincoln arc welder that's been sitting in my uncles old barn for the last 15 years or so unused... Fingers were crossed when I flipped the switch on that old gal.. but I got it wired up nice and got my camper fixed.. so all is good in the neighborhood. .
 
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tncumminsguy

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Feb 26, 2012
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332
Location
Nashville,TN
Love love love it! I flew to NY to get it. Dealership had it listed 10k below book online. I printed the listed immediately. They honored it.
2011 3/4 ton Laramie Longhorn megacab. I've officially become an old man.. but I love it..


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Hey i'm 24 and have a laramie megacab 3/4t, young guys rock them also
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
Ok.. so I'm starting to develop what some would call an impulsive obsession with buying awesome things for the cheap on Craigslist. . So Monday at work I was on cl.. (slow day) and was poking around for another safe (big heavy safe like my other mosler)
After a few minutes of trying out different search words I stumbled upon a Diebold double door stand up model.. hrmmmm I think to myself.. so I look at the listing date.. (listed 45 days ago) it's listed for $499, now this instantly makes me think that the price is probably cheap enough already.. but it's been on for a month and a half now.. so it's obviously not cheap enough. .. OR... the ******* is pushing 2000 lbs and no one has the balls or audacity to try and move it.. (enter my obsessive compulsive buying thoughts) so now I'm thinking, how cheap would I have to go for me to try and move it? $250... $200... nah... we'll shoot for $100... ;)
So I send a text to the lister.. 20 minutes later they reply... (short conversation ensues) and they've had several people want it... no one can move it...
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE MOMENTS I LOVE...

Ok.. I say... I want the safe.. I will come and get it tomorrow, I have a big trailer and tools to move it.. will you take $100...
30 minutes go by... YES! IT'S YOURS FOR $100 IF YOU GET IT OUT OF OUR GARAGE... WHOOT WHOOT!

So with the help of a buddy and some 2x4s, some 1/2" plywood, and a 15k lbs come along.. this is where I win...
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Got it up on my trailer and put 36,000 lbs worth of racket straps on it.. and screwed 2x4s around the base so it wouldn't move.. and hit the take me home button on the gps.. [emoji33] please [emoji72] don't let any [emoji61] pass me on the way home.. haha..

MADE IT HOME SAFELY... but my b hole was puckered till the next morning after that ride lol

I'll post up another few pictures of the inside and how I'm gonna convert it to a gun safe after lunch..
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
What size/kind post?Or could you use 6x6's for that height?
I imagine your asking what size my posts are for my building.. they are laminated 6x6s... (3 layered 2x6s) only the bottom first 8 feet are treated that way too.. Here's a picture . You can see the outer 2x6s is treated and alternated back to #2 yellow pine.
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Some of the treated pieces reach up like 12'.
I think the eve posts were almost 26' long...
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
Ok.. so here's the before and after pics of how I'm converting the safe over to a gun / ammo / important documents safe..

Front.

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Side

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Doors open. Notice all the compartments and filing drawers.. I'll be rearranging this in the next few pictures

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Pulled out all the cabinets.. dusted.. wiped out.. (lots of paper clips.. rubber bands.. and a few old 35 mm film negatives.. nothing saucy)

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Blank canvas

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And now with the trial layout.. think I like it..

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If the Mosin-Nagant M91 fits.. anything will. [emoji6]

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Some things now safely (no pun intended :) ) tucked away for a [emoji299] day..

[emoji631] f yeah...
 

rixtrix1

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Aug 25, 2013
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Chandler, AZ (from west NE)
Great deal on the new safe. Having the willingness, and ability, to do something no one else wants to do makes for some great acquisitions, for sure.
 
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TexasK5

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Aug 6, 2014
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Location
Ft. Worth, TX
That is a great looking building. I am planning to do something quite similar inside of a 40x60 metal building.

For the second floor, it looks to be about 16' wide (based on the decking). What size floor joists did you use and what is the spacing? I am planning on a 14-16' span, like what you have (I think) and want to make sure it feels stable. Now that you have been in there for a bit, would you have done anything different structurally?

Thanks
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
That is a great looking building. I am planning to do something quite similar inside of a 40x60 metal building.

For the second floor, it looks to be about 16' wide (based on the decking). What size floor joists did you use and what is the spacing? I am planning on a 14-16' span, like what you have (I think) and want to make sure it feels stable. Now that you have been in there for a bit, would you have done anything different structurally?

Thanks
My interior (house) is 1/3 of the building.. so it's actually 20' X 45'.. though I do have a nice hip wall down the length to break up my floor joists. That living room area wall is about 12'9" I think from the outer wall.. this also allowed me to use 2x 10 joists instead of having to use 2x 12 or even lvl joists. . Which in turn saved me from having height issues for the 8' ceilings... and a huge cost difference in materials.

I used the Anthony Forest Products (span calculator) App. To figure out my joists I needed.. 2x 10 will only span 14' spaced at 16 oc.. 2x 12 will span 16'6" .. so keep that in mind.. after 16' your talking engineered joists.. BIG [emoji765][emoji765][emoji765][emoji765][emoji107]
 

TexasK5

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Location
Ft. Worth, TX
My interior (house) is 1/3 of the building.. so it's actually 20' X 45'.. though I do have a nice hip wall down the length to break up my floor joists. That living room area wall is about 12'9" I think from the outer wall.. this also allowed me to use 2x 10 joists instead of having to use 2x 12 or even lvl joists. . Which in turn saved me from having height issues for the 8' ceilings... and a huge cost difference in materials.

I used the Anthony Forest Products (span calculator) App. To figure out my joists I needed.. 2x 10 will only span 14' spaced at 16 oc.. 2x 12 will span 16'6" .. so keep that in mind.. after 16' your talking engineered joists.. BIG [emoji765][emoji765][emoji765][emoji765][emoji107]

Thanks for the info. I will certainly give that app a look. Based on this info I may keep the space at 14'
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
where did your flag pole come from?
It was an old light pole from our urban renewal project back in the 70's... there were a few that had been taken down for new construction uptown.. so they'd been laying behind our salt bins at work.. service director was tired of looking at them.. so I asked if I could have one before they got destroyed..
It's a pebbled concrete octagonal pole with a hollow center for the wiring.. whole thing is rebar reinforced. Just cut the light holder arm down and dressed it up.. added a pulley at the top and a cleat to the side.. oh and the giant brass eagle.. love it sooooo much!
Thanks for the info. I will certainly give that app a look. Based on this info I may keep the space at 14'
Yeah.. when you start pricing out 2x 12 compared to 2x10s.. especially 14 footers compared to 16 footers.. bills get high quick.. you'll have to let me know when you get pictures up.
 

TexasK5

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Ft. Worth, TX
Yeah.. when you start pricing out 2x 12 compared to 2x10s.. especially 14 footers compared to 16 footers.. bills get high quick.. you'll have to let me know when you get pictures up.

It will be a while before we get to that point. Right now the framing is almost done.
 

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luke7734

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It will be a while before we get to that point. Right now the framing is almost done.
You'd be surprised.. frames up.. metal will be on in a week.. then depending on how you'll be insulating you could realistically be framing interior walls up in about 2-3 weeks.. [emoji106]
 

TexasK5

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Ft. Worth, TX
Yes, the building should be skinned this week and doors etc installed next week. Followed by running the electrical line from the pole to the building, adding the septic and spray foam insulation. What I should have mentioned is that is all being done by the builder, whereas the interior will all be done by me. This is all also happening 200 miles from my house (a HARN away from home if you will), so the work will be done sporadically over the next several months.
 
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What a great build. I hope to do this someday. It looks like you have a great solution for heating. Maybe I missed it, what are you doing for cooling?
 
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luke7734

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What a great build. I hope to do this someday. It looks like you have a great solution for heating. Maybe I missed it, what are you doing for cooling?
I just ran a 20A 240V outlet to the window at the top of the stairs. Been using one of my huge window A/C units.. it's been doing a pretty good job keeping the entire house cool.

Future plans include 2 Mitsubishi wall mount units. One upstairs and one down.. just gonna ride it out this summer and see what's gonna be the best scenario for next year. [emoji6]

[emoji631] f yeah...
 
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luke7734

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Crestline, Ohio
Little bored tonight.. so I built a little hose reel frame for my compressor. Couple 2x4s.. couple screws.. couple lags.. wha-la [emoji6] [emoji106]
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Legwound

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Feb 26, 2014
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Southern Ontario
I'm in Southern Ontario which is probably comparable in temps to Michigan. I've been looking for a house and shop with a good chunk of land and am coming to realize that something similar to your building will be the best solution for me as I just can't find the right combo of house/shop and most are very ineeficiently heated to boot.

For your second floor of the living space how are you heating? I may have missed it but I have gone through your thread a few times.

I'm currently investigating pole barns versus purchased steel buildings. From other threads I'm getting a feeling that Mortons is one of the better options for a purchased steel building however I haven't found anyone in Canada working with them.

If there are any Canadian members do you know of which folks to avoid and which are better choices (even though I suspect a pole barn will be my best bet).

cheers
 
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