1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap (EcoBoosted)

[TimeWarpF100]

it was a 28 yr wait,


But yesterday for the first time since my friend purchased the '56 Belair it went around the block on its own power!

Its taken up much valuable space in my shop for over a year now,

Hoping early next week it will go to upholstery.

Rotisserie pic 1998 and now 17yrs after we took body off frame (started on it in 1997) it was driven on its own . .

I can finally get going on my EcoBoost & 427 Projects! Its been a long time coming. If the health will cooperate maybe I can make some real progress.

 

[MP&C]

Yay! More room for Pick-up trucks!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Just out of curiosity, what's a complete 427 side oiler worth, probably rebuilt, turn key and can be run? One has 2x4's and I think the other has 3x2's?

Kinda like Mike said.

But it really depends on so many things. Is it a real side oiler block with medium riser heads, what is bore size, any prior repairs.

Also which intake manifold and carbs. Original timing pointer, balancer
way too many variables.

So many have the original parts long gone like the steel crank

Now that so many aftermarket parts are avail it has really killed the value.

Very few people want to take the chance on the original lemans rods etc.

Not so many original 427 project cars avail to repair anymore so most 427's built now are pretty much all aftermarket parts except for the tin.

About the only original 427 pieces on my '66 project are

Timing Cover

Balancer and timing pointer

Dipstick tube

Intake Manifold

Air Cleaner

I cannot think of another single original part on entire engine.

Back in the late 80's early 90's 10k was easy to get for a complete original engine. Now how many years later I think the prices have dropped.

Post pics or details on what the engines are to better determine the value

A original C5AF-F distributor is worth big bucks as are the Medium riser BC~BD carbs, dual quad medium riser intake. Std bore side oiler block has a lot of value as does a nice set of medium riser heads.

The 427 balancers & timing pointers bring good money as does a nice std steel crank.

So just with above listed items the value could change by 5k or more.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Yay! More room for Pick-up trucks!

FINALLY! LOL!

Robert, how many square ft of shop space to you have?

I have under 1000 total (heated & cooled) so with another project car in shop its much more cramped than I would like. Too much space taken up by tools, equip, cabinets, tool boxes etc.

My real avail working space is only approx 360 sq ft, so when I get a veh completely torn down I feel quite cramped.

I have now moved many bins and carts full of 427 truck parts into shop. I can only dream of having lots of room to work in. My smallest shop since 1999.

 

[welder4956]

Good to see you back! I hope things are looking better for your health.

 

[MP&C]

FINALLY! LOL!

Robert, how many square ft of shop space to you have?

I have under 1000 total (heated & cooled) so with another project car in shop its much more cramped than I would like. Too much space taken up by tools, equip, cabinets, tool boxes etc.

My real avail working space is only approx 360 sq ft, so when I get a veh completely torn down I feel quite cramped.

I have now moved many bins and carts full of 427 truck parts into shop. I can only dream of having lots of room to work in. My smallest shop since 1999.

Going by OD of the building, 1728, and I loose about 700 for the paint booth and paint mixing area. So I'm about equal to your 1000 square feet, with a 52 F7 taking up one bay. I need to go ahead and put a flat bed on the truck frame so I can use it as a work bench..

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Really struggling with being able to do much anymore but was finally able to get left header all together and tacked. Just need to remove for final welding.

Right side header I have the first 12" done in 1 7/8" and partial of 2 pipes in final 2" dia. Just need to complete that one but very slow going.

I highly doubt I will ever be able to do another set if I actually can complete this one . . .

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but its all I got at this time.

 

[madoc1]

wow! nice work. hope you can finish it.

jim

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Its been a while since a update:

Tomorrow it will be a month since I started the header project. Only 3 weeks behind schedule. Gettin' too old for this chit.

I was finally able to have them tacked together in place. Now its time to pull them out and start welding. Hoping I do not get much warp~movement so they still fit when welded.

Drivers side was pretty straight forward but really had a hard time with passenger side.

Engine is offset 2.5" to the right. Even the transmission is offset to right.

I had to rotate the collector to get it to fit at all. Couple extra more turns than planned but the only way.

Kinda dark underneath but at least they are not cell phone pics.
Also a few better pics of undercarriage with headers in place.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I forgot the best part!

The 1956 Belair is finally G O N E ! ! !

At the upholstery shop it is . .

Nice having a extra inside parking spot.

 

[MP&C]

I forgot the best part!

The 1956 Belair is finally G O N E ! ! !

Party time!

 

[dodgepolara500]

Holy Cow. The underside of your truck is finished to a better standard than the topside of most projects!

 

[bulletpruf]

Why is the engine offset 2.5" to the right?

Scott

 

[kbs2244]

With an underside like that be sure you have a real big mirror to slide under it when you go to show it off.
Amazing workmanship.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Absolute piece of art!

 

[Arps]

beautiful work

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Party time!

That will be when I get headers welded up! Having major issues . .

Holy Cow. The underside of your truck is finished to a better standard than the topside of most projects!

Thanks!

Why is the engine offset 2.5" to the right?

Scott

Factory offset is 2 1/2" to clear steering box and am sure other reasons.

With an underside like that be sure you have a real big mirror to slide under it when you go to show it off.
Amazing workmanship.

Absolute piece of art!

beautiful work

Thanks All!


I need some TIG welding help . . .

I have never had an issue trying to TIG in the past until now.

Something with the metal the pipe from Schoenfeld headers.

Hard to describe but it tacked great using the MIG. But as soon as I put the torch to it and especially if I try to add rod it kind of splatters and flat out near impossible to weld.

I normally use a 3/32 tungsten for exhaust pipe but turns out this is not typical .062 but closer to .050 so kind of thin.

I went down to .040 tungsten but still having issues.

I am thinking I may need a different filling rod or gas mix? Must be either cheap china pipe or a mix of something and not typical mild steel.

Welds just fine on other exhaust pipe I have laying around.

Very bummed right now as thought the headers would be long welded and in by now. I was really looking forward to TIG on the headers. But not any more . . . LOL

 

[btr598]

i cant see pictures but what size rod are you using? i build headers all the time for local drag racers.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

i cant see pictures but what size rod are you using? i build headers all the time for local drag racers.

1/16" Lincoln ER70S-2

The metal pipes are made from does not like this rod.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

i cant see pictures but what size rod are you using? i build headers all the time for local drag racers.

Wow, I have been welding pipes up for 15yrs using a TIG without an issue.

Schoenfeld called me back saying same thing I need to purge using another bottle of Argon. Never heard of such a thing welding mild steel.

Thought that was used only in stainless . .

Just do not have the funds to purchase another bottle, regulator etc.

Its taken me a month and a half to get this far.

Schoenfeld says they always MIG and never TIG the pipes.

the wall thickness is only .049 Never again will I use these mandrel bends . .

 

[hippie2cams]

You do not have to purchase another bottle to back purge your weld area, all you need is a Y available at most all welding suppliers and some gas hose, come off your regulator with the Y and hook up 2 hoses one to your torch and one for your purge. tell your supply house what you want to do and they will hand you what you need. But if you are welding mild steel I don't think that is your problem.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Yeah, I posted that under TIG help needed. Never heard of such a thing having to purge on mild steel pipe.

I think its a cheap pipe deal but could be what others have said. dirty inside pipe from lube used in mandrel bending.

I cleaned outside of pipe but not inside.

Actually when I think of it I cleaned end of pipe at least where I made a cut but not where cut had already been made by Schoenfeld.

Part of problem could also be not being able to see very well.

Hopefully I now have that rectified.

Other things to deal with today but now I have some time to make another attempt at some TIG work . .

I also noticed someone else has used my TIG tungsten only grinder for grinding something else. Could be a bit of contamination when I sharpen the tungsten . .

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Picked up a new hood so I can get a better VIEW of what I am trying to weld.

It seems to make a HUGE difference just using different method to cut the pipe.
On entire header build I used a Dewalt abrasive type wheel in the chop saw.
Below pics are when I used a new Carbide tipped blade in the chop saw.
Much easier to deal with. I need a couple thousand hours of practice then maybe the welds will be acceptable.

Practice weld here:

I will do another practice weld then onto another attempt at welding up the headers. Wind now pretty much gone out of my sails on how I expected them to look when done. Oh well, cannot win em' all!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

New Lincoln hood. Love it!

I also picked up some new various size filler rod

Will see how it goes . . .

 

[fordmustang1984]

If the tubes are galvanized that could cause the poor welding. Having fought with contamination on tungstens and parts this does not sound like an issue back-purging or further cleaning will solve. I would set up some scraps of the tube and weld them, the pics don't look coated, but i think i see a ring of black residue around the tacks that doesn't belong on clean bare tube.

Edit: just saw your new posts, it could be residue from the abrasive blade engrained in the material thats burning out.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

primary tubes for passenger side now done!

Welding pretty decent right now.

"Decent" not quite what I was hoping for but gotta keep movin'

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Seeing as though the right header was welded together I put it up in place to double check to see if I had much warpage~movement when welding. Fits even better . . . LOL

Today I will try to get the left side welded up. Hope it fits as well . .

I will need slip joints on right header because of tight space.

Headers will come out when attached to engine to problem.
Just had to make room for starter removal which took up extra space.
The 2.5" engine offset to right was main issue.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

after nearly 2 months the headers are finally welded up. Just have to add a bit to collectors to get proper length. Sandblast & coat then final install.

Simply not able to do much so its taking forever . . . I was thinking this was a week then 2 wk project now 2 months and not done.

The first weld from flange is the 1 7/8-2' Step. Was able to get done with only 2 welds after that. Kind of a puzzle for sure.

 

[bulletpruf]

Those are gorgeous! Nice work!

Scott

 

[MP&C]

Looks good! I had to get a new helmet myself, shade setting of 9 wasn't cutting it. New one goes down to 8 for welding, now I can see what I'm doing!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Left side pretty much done now.

Have to add 2" to collector

Right side pretty much there too.

 

[CNGsaves]

1970 Boss 302 I restored recently sold at Mecum in Seattle

http://www.mecum.com/lot-detail.cfm?lot_id=WA0614-185458

Simply gorgeous !!! If only we all spent $4K or $5K back in '70 and kept our Boss 302 for life.

Friend's dad back in high school had same '70 Boss 302 in yellow that was spectacular. Seeing your beautiful work is pushing me to track him down and see what happened with the Boss.

Wonderful to see your health holding out and sharing your expertise !!

 

[HOTFR8]

Nice set of extractors. How do you plan to finish them ?

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Simply gorgeous !!! If only we all spent $4K or $5K back in '70 and kept our Boss 302 for life.

Friend's dad back in high school had same '70 Boss 302 in yellow that was spectacular. Seeing your beautiful work is pushing me to track him down and see what happened with the Boss.

Wonderful to see your health holding out and sharing your expertise !!

Thanks! The first car I bought on my own @ 18yrs old was a Grabber Blue 1970 Boss 302. A left over still unsold at dealership. Driven by owners son with a dealer plate on it. It was kept on a old unused Rotunda alignment rack. I started there sweeping floors etc Another story . . . Oh yeah, I paid only 2400.00 for my boss 302 that had never been titled.

Nice set of extractors. How do you plan to finish them ?

$$ are very tight for me so I plan on sandblasting and painting them with a
1800 deg paint which I have had great luck with in the past.

I may check with a local Jet-Hot type place to check pricing. I do not want them flashy so they will be black.

Next up I will build the 3" mandrel bent exhaust. I will leave it the Aluminized coating. Mufflers are going to be DynoMax Ultra's
Love the sound of them.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

While building headers I had to make the cooling lines for transmission.

I had a old empty trans case I used along with starter to help in getting lines in correct location.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

also during header build wanted to make sure cooling lines would fit so got into mounting the non original radiator. This is the largest I could find (installed a few of them now)
Radiator is from a 1977-79 F series truck with a 460 and max cooling.

I bent up a couple brackets so I could get the rad in proper location and still get hood to shut. I made one bracket and it fit perfect so bent up another. Then patting myself on back for making them fit so well. About that time forgot about the Mirror image side to side and cut off wrong corners! Its heck to get old and senile . . Instead of building another I just welded the corner back on. Gotta have a few of the many screw ups showing . . . LOL

Using my trusty old box brake and air shears a couple drilled holes , ,

 

[CNGsaves]

Last 2 posts the PICS are not working.

EDIT: they are working now !!

 

[akapero]

I can see 'em.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Header bolted to a actual engine just to look at routing and to see what the Mercury script valve covers will look like along with my new FE manifold adapter which allows use of 351C Intake manifolds.

The engine on stand is current 390 but will soon be a 416 FE.

Picked up the engine with very low miles (under 1000) that had fresh rebuild.
Had an issue with bending pushrods and also was said to be pretty low in power department.

After a bit of CC work this evening found out the compression was only 7.40 to 1!
Also found out the outer ring on balancer slipped where how they were timing it made it 27deg retarded from where they thought it was.

Pistons were .120 in the hole at TDC!
So the simple task of adding a 428 crankshaft will bump the compression up to 9.2 and give me a piston thats only .020 in the hole at TDC. Bumping the cubes from 395 up to 416. All in all the HP numbers should about double . .

 

[gasgas17]

Any progress on the Eco boosted? There are a lot of photo's way back in the tread that are no longer hosted. This truck is nice too though!