pendragon1998
Well-known member
Forgive me, for I am sleepy, but could you be more clear on what paint you used?
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Forgive me, for I am sleepy, but could you be more clear on what paint you used?
Saturate your burnt windings with this to seal them up:
TMan - thanks for this and your other advice. It really helps!
Have you used the sealer? Do I need to mask the inner surfaces of the stator? Any particular prep needed?
John
OP
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
2983 replies!!
when I started this thread I never thought it would get this big. this is the biggest post I've ever started lol
when I started this thread I never thought it would get this big. this is the biggest post I've ever started lol
John,
I've used these sealers for years on my antique electric fans. It would be a good idea to try and clean the windings with a electric motor degreaser/cleaner that's known to be safe to use on windings. But if in doubt, then skip the cleaning step.
The only area that needs masking is the inside surface of the iron laminations. (so the rotor won't rub on a buildup of sealer).
Now just spray the **** out of your stator. (probably better if the stator is warm vs cold). Let the sealer wick in/absorb and then spray again. In this case more is better then less. You might use up most of the can but as long as it's being absorbed deep into the stator's windings then keep spraying. Once the sealer starts dripping all the way thru, you've probably done enough. Now let it dry for a couple days or whatever the directions say.
This sealer will wick in and seal/insulate small shorts between windings and then seal up the wiring from air and moisture which can eventually degrade the copper wire. It's really good stuff to use on old motors.
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Itinerant
Well-known member
Welcome. Do you need the tint for protection while brazing or using a plasma cutter or do you have some other reason? You could also get a clear shield and swap them out as needed, they're about $8. Amazon's pricing is very competitive with the likes of Zoro, etc. It probably comes down to a couple of dollars depending on shipping rates.
bisley45
Well-known member
Yes it is I'll post a picture of it when I get home. And yes definitely need a vintage craftsman power tool thread... [emoji3]
pendragon1998
Well-known member
davefr, should I consider hitting the rotor on my grinder with some of that sealer? There appears to be some insulation (varnish?) abraded off the black wrapping wires.
(I know the wire in the foreground is also missing insulation. I will be splicing in a new wire between the field windings and what it goes to.)
I'd like to clean out the field windings, but I am concerned about all the wrapping material and whether it's solvent-safe. Should I content myself to just blow it out with air?
(I know the wire in the foreground is also missing insulation. I will be splicing in a new wire between the field windings and what it goes to.)
I'd like to clean out the field windings, but I am concerned about all the wrapping material and whether it's solvent-safe. Should I content myself to just blow it out with air?
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davefr, should I consider hitting the rotor on my grinder with some of that sealer? There appears to be some insulation (varnish?) abraded off the black wrapping wires.
(I know the wire in the foreground is also missing insulation. I will be splicing in a new wire between the field windings and what it goes to.)
I'd like to clean out the field windings, but I am concerned about all the wrapping material and whether it's solvent-safe. Should I content myself to just blow it out with air?
Don't spray sealer on the rotor. It has no windings in it. Just clean it up with scotch brite.
If the stator windings look good then I'd leave them alone. My suggestion of sealing them was directed to the guy had some fried/damaged windings.
Instead of a splice on that frayed wire, I'd just apply a double layer of heat shrink tubing. (as long as you have access to the end.)
2983 replies!!
when I started this thread I never thought it would get this big. this is the biggest post I've ever started lol
and it's just getting started good 
oh man, can't wait to see it. who wants to start the CPT(craftsman power tool) thread?
Re: Paint Colors
Teter - I've got some questions for you or anyone else experienced at painting:
How many coats did you use?
How much can a can paint?
Did you use clear over the paint?
Has anyone painted a vise with hammered paint? Does it last?
Thanks
Uh huh, sure, call me out! I did respond to your email, I admittedly didn't have the email notice for PM's on...so I didn't check in yesterday!
I don't wanna share....it helps me envied!
I'll update my posts above to include colors and brands.
The 1/3 HP is Rustoleum Hammered Copper and Rustoleum Ivory all in one Paint and Primer, over top of a base coat of Rustoleum Flat White to help the Ivory show true.
The 3/4 HP is Rustoleum Hammered Light Blue with Rustoleum Iridescent Pearl All in One Paint and Primer (but over top of a base coat of Rustoleum Flat White since the Pearl doesn't cover for ****!!!!)
Teter - I've got some questions for you or anyone else experienced at painting:
How many coats did you use?
How much can a can paint?
Did you use clear over the paint?
Has anyone painted a vise with hammered paint? Does it last?
Thanks
torqueman2002
Well-known member
You are welcome. This is by far my favorite thread.
I wish I could help, but I haven't had any experience or need to use this guy.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JCM: prep is everything when painting bare metal and temps in the 50 to 80 degree range helps a lot too. I can't speak for using anything other than rattle cans, but if the prep and temperatures are good the finish should last a long time in your block or any vise.
that said i'm liking the bare steel so much that i'm planning on using a boiled linseed oil on most of my vises instead of painting them and maybe a Japanning finish if i can figure out how to do that.
good luck
IT: only reason i can think of buying the tinted face shield is if i go to my neighbor's house and he's welding i can have a little extra protection and watch his skill so i might have that ability some day. i guess i could buy the extra clear shield for when i'm not near welding. thanks again.
Emerald: i guess you had a good idea that day you started this thread and thanks for causing me to buy almost everyone i see. by the way do you have just the one block and care to share a few pictures or how many do you own?
TM: did you find any time to go pick up that other 1/2 HP commercial block? by the way speaking for me i'm glad this is one of your favorite threads and i'm sure others agree. your knowledge and helpful attitude are second to none.
that said i'm liking the bare steel so much that i'm planning on using a boiled linseed oil on most of my vises instead of painting them and maybe a Japanning finish if i can figure out how to do that.
good luck
IT: only reason i can think of buying the tinted face shield is if i go to my neighbor's house and he's welding i can have a little extra protection and watch his skill so i might have that ability some day. i guess i could buy the extra clear shield for when i'm not near welding. thanks again.
Emerald: i guess you had a good idea that day you started this thread and thanks for causing me to buy almost everyone i see. by the way do you have just the one block and care to share a few pictures or how many do you own?
TM: did you find any time to go pick up that other 1/2 HP commercial block? by the way speaking for me i'm glad this is one of your favorite threads and i'm sure others agree. your knowledge and helpful attitude are second to none.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
EmeraldEmerald: i guess you had a good idea that day you started this thread and thanks for causing me to buy almost everyone i see. by the way do you have just the one block and care to share a few pictures or how many do you own?
TM: did you find any time to go pick up that other 1/2 HP commercial block? by the way speaking for me i'm glad this is one of your favorite threads and i'm sure others agree. your knowledge and helpful attitude are second to none.
drivesitfar - Thank you for your kind words. These simple, well built machines have found their way into my heart.
Kevin had a realignment of thoughts and I thanked the seller for his prompt reply. As far as I know, he still has it.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4727181844.html
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bisley45
Well-known member
bisley45
Well-known member
here you go
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jakemac
Well-known member
I'm not sure that I'd trust that tinted shield against welding flash. Do you know if it's rated for it ? Even a pair of sunglasses will leave you with flash burns on your eyeballs if they aren't rated for welding.
I'd say go for the clear faceshield and pick up a rated pair of welding goggles for visiting the neighbor.
pendragon1998
Well-known member
Thankya thankya!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jake: noted and thanks for the tip and heads up.
Itinerant
Well-known member
Jake: noted and thanks for the tip and heads up.
Jake is absolutely right. The Sellstrom tints are a shade 5 which is fine for the uses I asked about but absolutely NOT for any welding operations.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jake and IT: just curious what the advantage of the tinting shield is then. My old welder neighbors are pretty safety conscious so i'm sure they would have said something if i was watching their welding without the right shield, but thanks again for the warnings.
i already haven't used enough ear protection nearly often enough with my power tools so my hearing isn't that good anymore. started with rock and roll then the music of those fine power tools we love. chainsaw might have been noisiest, but i do have a few grinders and others that make a bit of noise too.
any metal framed face shields to be found new that i can buy or do i need to buy a 90 year old's old mask?
i already haven't used enough ear protection nearly often enough with my power tools so my hearing isn't that good anymore. started with rock and roll then the music of those fine power tools we love. chainsaw might have been noisiest, but i do have a few grinders and others that make a bit of noise too.
any metal framed face shields to be found new that i can buy or do i need to buy a 90 year old's old mask?
jakemac
Well-known member
Hearing loss ?
I GUESS WE'LL ALL NEED TO TYPE A LITTLE LOUDER WHEN RESPONDING TO YOUR POSTS THEN.
I GUESS WE'LL ALL NEED TO TYPE A LITTLE LOUDER WHEN RESPONDING TO YOUR POSTS THEN.
espyking83
Well-known member
Do you guys powder coat when painting your grinders or does regular paint work fine?
Itinerant
Well-known member
The tint just provides a level of protection suitable for lower levels of radiant energy, and come to think of it shade 5 may not be sufficient for plasma cutting. Still good for light gas welding, oxy cutting and torch brazing and soldering processes.
Good question. I was wondering about that myself. My guess is that it would be a fair amount more expensive than a rattle can.
I've been digging around online and I may have found a threaded taper adapter. The description is for a 5/8"-11. Is the threading on a 5/8" arbor 11 tpi?
A couple of links:
PeterbiltParts.com
Buschshinproducts.com
Busch claims that they come in both left and right handed adapters, but there's no way that I can see to specify. I plan to contact them on Monday to learn more.
What do you think?
A couple of links:
PeterbiltParts.com
Buschshinproducts.com
Busch claims that they come in both left and right handed adapters, but there's no way that I can see to specify. I plan to contact them on Monday to learn more.
What do you think?
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jake: i had a smile on my face all day with your bold big font post trying to correct my hearing problem.
unfortunately that only helped me read the post without having to put my reader 250 glasses on, but thanks for that.
maybe a Youtube type video post for us over 50 and i'll PM Ryan and the mods to see if they can give the hearing impaired that option with a small donation. Cheers smart a%# !!!!
by the way thanks for the part to fix my little Craftsman clamp vise and i think i'll wait to put it on it until i do a restore and paint it burgundy.
IT: thanks for the thoughts and just curious if you were buying a full face shield would you buy the one i posted and with which shields so i can have decent protection when watching my and learning how to weld from my neighbors that have gas, mig, tig and about every type you can think of? thanks again
Espy: since you only paid $15 for your Dayton block you saved enough money to powder coat it. there isn't much metal on these, but might still be a bit spendy if you want to Powder coat one unless you have a friend.
JCM: i use the $10 per can Hammered rustoleum on my vises and other things i paint because it has a rust inhibiter in it. I also like the finish better with the more expensive cans. if you have a completely dry and slightly rough clean surface to paint and the temp is 60-80 degrees you can usually paint with the $3-5 per rustoleum. it's usually 40's and raining up her in Seattle about 6 months a year so my reasoning to use a little more expensive paint. some guys up here have ovens in their garages to pre heat the vise or part, paint it and then put it back in the oven. i don't have the luxury yet, but thinking of making room for one.
unfortunately that only helped me read the post without having to put my reader 250 glasses on, but thanks for that.
maybe a Youtube type video post for us over 50 and i'll PM Ryan and the mods to see if they can give the hearing impaired that option with a small donation. Cheers smart a%# !!!!
by the way thanks for the part to fix my little Craftsman clamp vise and i think i'll wait to put it on it until i do a restore and paint it burgundy.
IT: thanks for the thoughts and just curious if you were buying a full face shield would you buy the one i posted and with which shields so i can have decent protection when watching my and learning how to weld from my neighbors that have gas, mig, tig and about every type you can think of? thanks again
Espy: since you only paid $15 for your Dayton block you saved enough money to powder coat it. there isn't much metal on these, but might still be a bit spendy if you want to Powder coat one unless you have a friend.
JCM: i use the $10 per can Hammered rustoleum on my vises and other things i paint because it has a rust inhibiter in it. I also like the finish better with the more expensive cans. if you have a completely dry and slightly rough clean surface to paint and the temp is 60-80 degrees you can usually paint with the $3-5 per rustoleum. it's usually 40's and raining up her in Seattle about 6 months a year so my reasoning to use a little more expensive paint. some guys up here have ovens in their garages to pre heat the vise or part, paint it and then put it back in the oven. i don't have the luxury yet, but thinking of making room for one.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Looks like another CM Block grinder. Made by Delco Products, an early supplier of CM Block grinders.
http://allentown.craigslist.org/tls/4731375815.html
http://allentown.craigslist.org/tls/4731375815.html
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Itinerant
Well-known member
IT: thanks for the thoughts and just curious if you were buying a full face shield would you buy the one i posted and with which shields so i can have decent protection when watching my and learning how to weld from my neighbors that have gas, mig, tig and about every type you can think of? thanks again
If I were looking for impact protection I would definitely consider the shield you posted but for observing your neighbor's welding you need a much higher level of protection than is available with that type, i.e. a dedicated welding hood. In that regard it's hard to beat the Harbor Freight adjustable shade, auto-darkening welding helmet which can be had for ~ $35 with coupon if you have a store nearby.
Makes sense. I don't have an extra oven around, but I'll try putting the parts on a radiator with a blanket over them to warm things up.
pendragon1998
Well-known member
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bisley45
Well-known member
yep slow speed sharping grinder very cool and seem to go for good money.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
pendragon: it's a wet stone and lots of varieties of them. that's an older one and if you put a motor on it then a great tool for knife, chisel and other blade sharpening. not really a block, but it is a grinder.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Pend, I have one similar with a gear reduction motor on it. as mentioned wet grinding slow speed, and VERY useful for edged tools and knives. Ask if it comes with a motor, adn if not make an offer. I gave $25 for mine with the Boston gear reduction motor.