espyking83
Well-known member
I just got a Dayton grinder and they're pretty similar to the craftsman one, it runs fine, but is there any type of maintenance that i should do before i run here regularly?
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Toolhorder
Well-known member
Here's the one I just made a stand for. It's at my work. The stone had some coating on it so a co-worker found a stone grinder and dressed it for me. It's a nice unit and I'm in to it $10-15 from a garage sale. The stand was a little more in materials maybe $60ish but it works great. Hope to have it a long time!
3/4 Block Looks Complete
View attachment 381593Just posted on CL:
http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/4733463072.html
View attachment 381593Just posted on CL:
http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/4733463072.html
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pendragon1998
Well-known member
here you go
Is that color 'pebble', 'almond', or 'bronze'? I don't see a label.
Edit: I think bronze is what another fellow used.
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pendragon1998
Well-known member
You're right (argh - $15!). I'm not thrilled with the Rustoleum Pro Enamel in 'Sand', as seen below. I'm going to look into picking up a can of X-O Rust Professional in Bronze, as suggested above.
BGPAtlas on OWWM used Rustoleum Dark Brown Satin and True Value "XO" Bronze gloss spray paint and I think he did a bang-up job. See his grinder below:
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jakemac
Well-known member
Anyone looking for worklights for your block grinders ?
There are two on ebay now. A later one, and an early one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Craftsman-Bench-Grinder-Work-Light-/111495465171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f5a5c8d3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Craftsman-Bench-Grinder-Work-Light-/291274630641?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d15225f1
There are two on ebay now. A later one, and an early one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Craftsman-Bench-Grinder-Work-Light-/111495465171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f5a5c8d3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Craftsman-Bench-Grinder-Work-Light-/291274630641?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d15225f1
McBrownie
Well-known member
Why yes, Jake. Yes I am. Feast your eyes on this beast that I grabbed this afternoon for $20.
View media item 44370
Yep, an 8" 3/4hp Industrial 397.19670 with the original eye shield glass (shatter proof stickers and all). It is missing a few things, the switch, a tool rest, and the light. So great timing with your post Jake and thanks. It runs incredibly smooth and takes a good 3 minutes to wind down. It spent the last 20 years in a barn. Before that, it belonged to a local business. The previous owner is in the process of downsizing and getting ready for condo living. He also had a Craftsman 5186 vise, but that was already spoken for.
It's pretty dusty, but should clean up nicely. If it checks out OK, I'm seriously considering outfitting this one with a MultiTool belt sanding attachment.
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u118224
Well-known member
You ****!
jakemac
Well-known member
Nice. I'd love to get my hands on an 8" 3/4hp block. 
torqueman2002
Well-known member
McB - sweet! 
drivesitfar
Well-known member
McB: nice find. maybe have a buffing wheel on one side and your sanding attachment on the other? in any case i think you are back on your game and good to hear you are at least moving around again after your having too much fun accident.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Brent: better question is why haven't you always wanted one.
Brent: better question is why haven't you always wanted one.
Probably because I'm too busy with 5 of everything else.
bczygan
Well-known member
Used my 1HP the other day.
Found a hatchet I bought a while ago and lightly touched each face to the spinning wheels.
Sharp as a razor.
Went and debarked a log.
Found a hatchet I bought a while ago and lightly touched each face to the spinning wheels.
Sharp as a razor.
Went and debarked a log.
McBrownie
Well-known member
Thanks everyone. It was a very good CL find. There hasn't been much of anything around me for the better part of a year when it comes to Block grinders. When I saw it listed late last night, I did a double and triple take. All I can say is "keep looking".
Drives,
I'm getting close to the point where I can start fooling around in the garage again. However, I didn't hesitate to drive out to the hinterland and get this one. It was an hour away - almost into farm country, but who can pass that up? Here is what I'm thinking of bolting on:
http://www.trick-tools.com/Multitool_2_x_36_inch_Belt_Grinder_Attachment_MT362_305#.VFF2KPnF-y4
Drives,
I'm getting close to the point where I can start fooling around in the garage again. However, I didn't hesitate to drive out to the hinterland and get this one. It was an hour away - almost into farm country, but who can pass that up? Here is what I'm thinking of bolting on:
http://www.trick-tools.com/Multitool_2_x_36_inch_Belt_Grinder_Attachment_MT362_305#.VFF2KPnF-y4
bisley45
Well-known member
Attachments
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice score.
Didn't realize you were off your feet, good to hear you are back to hunting these grinders
Here's a pic of what I want to do with 1 of my Blocks.
Link to how to make your own.
http://tinyurl.com/Block-belt-grinder-attachment
I have the same question. I have a 1/2 and a 3/4 so I'm in much the same boat, with a couple of differences. The 1/2 is a 7" and the 3/4 is an 8", and it's missing the right guard pieces. So the decision for me is pretty easy at this time: 1/2 as a grinder, 3/4 as a wire wheel. I've also reasoned out/self-justified this decision this way:
1/2 7" as a grinder since I tend to do light grinding work and the small wheels give slightly smaller SFPM which will help when I'm sharpening tools on a white wheel.
4/4 8" as a buffer/wire wheel since it has more hp and I can bear down on the buffer a bit more if I need to without slowing down the motor.
I don't know if that is the best way, or if I should be looking for an new right guard for the 3/4 in order to make it a grinder. Any thoughts from the experts?
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JCM: i'd say you have a good plan with what you are going to use your two block grinders for. the lower HP is fine for sharpening because you don't want to take big chunks of steel off or cause the steel to loose it's temper by turning it blue. also since you are missing the guard for the one side of your 3/4 HP it's a perfect fit for a buffing wheel where you can get better access. some people buff at 1800 RPM and others at 3600 RPM, but i know they all like more HP if they can get it so the 3/4 is also the best choice.
Thursday: i'd say take the smaller one for the stone wheels and put your wire and buffing wheels on your 1/2 HP. bear in mind the 1/2 HP block grinder might have as much or more power than the new 3/4 HP grinders they sell today because they measure the HP different now.
ALL: just a reminder to get full face shields for wire wheeling especially when using without a guard and even a chin guard and some thick clothing is a good idea too. every time i wire wheel on my little B & D grinder that doesn't have a guard i can usually pick about 4 or more wires out of my sweatshirts.
Just a little plug on why we have water trays on our grinders for the newer members and those who might not know this. if your piece of steel you are sharpening starts turning blue you need to get it in water to cool it down quickly. I'm guilty of being in a hurry in the past and not using water to cool down the lawnmower blade or whatever i was sharpening and just wanted to share with others. of course if you go past blue to red you are melting the steel and probably ruining your stone and maybe your grinder. use common sense and if you have a question you can't find an answer to just ask and we'll try to help if we can.
McB: i hope that new Block you found is a keeper and would love to see that sanding attachment you found attached to one of our blocks.
Thursday: i'd say take the smaller one for the stone wheels and put your wire and buffing wheels on your 1/2 HP. bear in mind the 1/2 HP block grinder might have as much or more power than the new 3/4 HP grinders they sell today because they measure the HP different now.
ALL: just a reminder to get full face shields for wire wheeling especially when using without a guard and even a chin guard and some thick clothing is a good idea too. every time i wire wheel on my little B & D grinder that doesn't have a guard i can usually pick about 4 or more wires out of my sweatshirts.
Just a little plug on why we have water trays on our grinders for the newer members and those who might not know this. if your piece of steel you are sharpening starts turning blue you need to get it in water to cool it down quickly. I'm guilty of being in a hurry in the past and not using water to cool down the lawnmower blade or whatever i was sharpening and just wanted to share with others. of course if you go past blue to red you are melting the steel and probably ruining your stone and maybe your grinder. use common sense and if you have a question you can't find an answer to just ask and we'll try to help if we can.
McB: i hope that new Block you found is a keeper and would love to see that sanding attachment you found attached to one of our blocks.
Thanks for the advice and warnings. I'll definitely get a knotted wire wheel and install the spark arrestor and safety shield as wells as wearing safety glasses.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Generally WW and polishing/buffing wheels produce more drag and will benift from yjr higher HP.
DRIVES: Actually you don't want the steel turning blue at all. Even that is too hot, and will affect temper fast.
pendragon1998
Well-known member
I should be good rewiring my grinder with 14 gauge stranded wire, right? I think it's 18 or 16 gauge right now.
McBrownie
Well-known member
Halloween Weirdness aka "Haunted Block Grinder".
All,
I have a wiring question on my 397.19670 3/4hp Industrial. I spent some time taking the cast iron base off and found a lot of cob webs. I also found some clean shiny windings. So far, so good.
What I didn't find was the galvanized base cover and, therefore, no date stamp. That was a minor let down. What else I found was the remnants of the original switch tucked inside. It is hooked up and is only missing the toggle. I was able to flip the contacts by inserting a small screw driver in the hole where the toggle used to be. That was a good find.
However, here is the weird part. Off is On, and On is Off with this switch. In other words, it works backwards. Flip it to Off and the grinder starts up. Flip it to On and the grinder turns off. I double checked the notch in the threaded collar and the switch even has On and OFF stamped on the cover plate. Here is a picture of the wiring:
View media item 44385
Maybe I'm just seeing things, but I can't imagine a switch working backwards even if the wires were switched around. Any ideas or should I just wait for the ghosts to clear out tonight?
EDIT: Mystery solved. Someone had taken the switch apart and put it back together backwards. Another switch worked fine.
All,
I have a wiring question on my 397.19670 3/4hp Industrial. I spent some time taking the cast iron base off and found a lot of cob webs. I also found some clean shiny windings. So far, so good.
What I didn't find was the galvanized base cover and, therefore, no date stamp. That was a minor let down. What else I found was the remnants of the original switch tucked inside. It is hooked up and is only missing the toggle. I was able to flip the contacts by inserting a small screw driver in the hole where the toggle used to be. That was a good find.However, here is the weird part. Off is On, and On is Off with this switch. In other words, it works backwards. Flip it to Off and the grinder starts up. Flip it to On and the grinder turns off. I double checked the notch in the threaded collar and the switch even has On and OFF stamped on the cover plate. Here is a picture of the wiring:
View media item 44385
Maybe I'm just seeing things, but I can't imagine a switch working backwards even if the wires were switched around. Any ideas or should I just wait for the ghosts to clear out tonight?
EDIT: Mystery solved. Someone had taken the switch apart and put it back together backwards. Another switch worked fine.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
McB: since it's not in the hole maybe it needs to be turned 180 degrees? just taking a shot at a guess until TM and others look at your wiring picture.
happy to hear your windings are in decent shape.
Outlaw: sort of what i meant, but thanks for clarifying. I was probably 50 before i knew about tempering steel and the effects of grinding on a piece too long at a time. also i can add if you are sharpening a long piece like a lawnmower's blade have a 5 gallon bucket of water close by.
happy to hear your windings are in decent shape.
Outlaw: sort of what i meant, but thanks for clarifying. I was probably 50 before i knew about tempering steel and the effects of grinding on a piece too long at a time. also i can add if you are sharpening a long piece like a lawnmower's blade have a 5 gallon bucket of water close by.
jakemac
Well-known member
If you're just talking about the power cord, then that's fine. It's what I use.
If you're talking about the internal wires, I'm not sure. There may be resistance issues involved that I wouldn't know about.
McBrownie
Well-known member
I compared it to my 1/2hp 397.19591 Commercial cap start and it looks right. It even looks like the same switch. I'll try swapping them out and see what happens. Here are some pictures of the 1/2hp just for the record. This 1/2hp has had some soldering done and a cord replacement at some point in it's life.
View media item 44388View media item 44389
View media item 44388View media item 44389
If you put that on your grinder,you will never go back to wheels. I have one and it's amazing!
I converted mine to accept 2x42 belts, but you might consider buying the more costly 2x48 version. Belts change in seconds, and it just purrs......
McBrownie
Well-known member
exmax,
Why are longer belts better? Do they last longer or run cooler or both? The 2x48 is "only" another $80, but if it is worth it, I might just go that direction. Also, can you share what you like about the belts versus the wheels?
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McBrownie
Well-known member
Mystery solved on my 397.19670 backwards On-Off switch. Guess what - it is backwards. I swapped out it with my 1/2hp switch and it worked fine. Then I took the backwards switch apart and someone had taken it apart previously and put back together backwards. That makes sense. I also updated my original post.
I also updated my original post.The longer belts are a standard size and easier/cheaper to get than 2x36. And longer belts last commensurately longer. I like how there is a "softness" on the rubber wheel so you get very little bounce. And you have tremendous access for whatever you are grinding. Lastly, if a belt breaks there is very little stored energy to hurt you----well, you probably know what happens when a wheel explodes....
Halloween Weirdness aka "Haunted Block Grinder".
All,
I have a wiring question on my 397.19670 3/4hp Industrial. I spent some time taking the cast iron base off and found a lot of cob webs. I also found some clean shiny windings. So far, so good.
However, here is the weird part. Off is On, and On is Off with this switch. In other words, it works backwards. Flip it to Off and the grinder starts up. Flip it to On and the grinder turns off. I double checked the notch in the threaded collar and the switch even has On and OFF stamped on the cover plate. Here is a picture of the wiring:
View media item 44385
Maybe I'm just seeing things, but I can't imagine a switch working backwards even if the wires were switched around. Any ideas or should I just wait for the ghosts to clear out tonight?
EDIT: Mystery solved. Someone had taken the switch apart and put it back together backwards. Another switch worked fine.
i have a 3/4 HP commercial
here is a pic of the panel and wiring label, hope it helps
McBrownie
Well-known member
Thanks Gilbo. My problem was that a PO had taken the switch apart and put it back together backwards. I'm glad you put up a 3/4hp wiring diagram. Mine is missing.
McBrownie
Well-known member
Good point on the safety issues, I hadn't thought of that. I also took a look at mscdirect.com for replacement belts. There were 6 choices for 2x36 size and 69 choices the 2x48 size. That has me thinking. Buy once, right?
I have (4) 2x48 (one is actually 2x42) belt grinders, and (2) 1x42. I use them all the time. I have 3 bench grinders w/wheels---never use them anymore unless it's a wire wheel or buffing wheel.