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#3 Stubby Phillips with a full size handle - Anyone make one?

Outlawmws

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My Samurai's use a LOT of No. 3 Phillips screws, and they get torqued pretty good. Once out, they are usually not too bad to get out again, but you still need a GOOD driver.

I'm setting up an abbreviated "road tool roll" with the basics, but I don't want to have a full size No. #3 driver in the DD full time.

I've looked (Googled) a bit, with 0 results.

Here is conceptually what I want: either the Craftsman full handle or the MAC hand and a half for handle sizes, with a stubby version of the SO #3, preferably with the hex on the shank.

I've got some No. 3 &4 bits in 3/16 drive (Well that "#3" is actually a #2 that had a munged tip, and I ground it back. So while it fits, if it broke once it probably will again. Heck I broke a SO #3 on these screws), and that longer bit could conceivably be pressed into the Stanley drive handle, but I'm not confident I won't split it, or strip the hex shape inside that handle. I'd rather get something already made.

The other option is a 5/16 bit drive handle that has the bit socket in the handle. But that will probably be hard to find as well.

Anyone seen something like this?

If not, who has a slightly longer #3 bit? I can try grinding the shank to see if I can prevent slipping stripping, or I can Epoxy a 5/16 socket or bit driver shank into it...

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Cope

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If you can find a Snap on dealer, see if he can make you a custom driver. I don't know what blades are available these days.
 

Davefr

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Outlaw,
Any reason you can't use one of these? They can always be used like ordinary screwdrivers.

81ETwFtvgpL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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Outlawmws

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I have several of those, but it's not what I want to carry in the rig all the time... (For the much larger "road box" that is not a problem)
 

PBCampbell

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I'm going to follow this thread in hopes a solution presents itself as I've sometimes wanted screwdrivers similar to what Outlaw is requesting.
 

n8n

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Not exactly what you asked, but are you sure it is a #3 Phillips and not JIS?

In either case, what about using a bit holder with the appropriate bit? then you can find one that will fit well...

In another thread that I started recently it was recommended to me to get PB Swiss or Vessel bits, only the latter has JIS though as it seems to be a Japan only thing. They have them both 1/4" for a hand bit holder and 5/16" like you'd use with the impact tool shown above. I ordered both, should have them tomorrow (already got my PB Swiss Pozidriv bits save for the #4 which is on backorder...)
 

jakemac

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jeffmoss26

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Henry Evers (Evco) makes a 5/16 x 1 1/4" #3 insert bit, 600P3
Apex makes 5/16 x 1 1/4, 2 1/2, and 4" #3 insert bits, 480-3X, 480-325X, 480-34X respectively.
 
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Outlawmws

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N8N; Almost positive it's Phillips.

Jake; I've never liked the offset drivers and only use them when obstructions force me to. That Stanley driver handle on the pic was planned for a 3/8" socket drive, but I now have a double fist wood handled driver for that, so if I have to that will be it.

Jeff; thanks for those APEX part numbers. That is, so far, the best fit with the Stanley handle I mentioned above.
 

n8n

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JIS looks very much like Phillips but is different...

https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/screw-issue.136992/page-2

Suzuki Samurai uses Phillips screws that require JIS Phillips screwdriver. JIS stands for Japanese Industrial Standard and the screwdriver head is very slightly different than a standard US Phillips screwdriver. Using a US Phillips screwdriver on JIS type screw almost always guarantees you a stripped screw because the screwdriver will not fully seat into the screw head due to these slight differences almost invisible to the naked eye. Your local hardware store does not carry JIS Phillips screwdrivers and most have never even heard of them. I ordered a set from Amazon and was astonished by how much difference the correct screwdrivers made - no more stripped screws.

also read here

http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-too...se-industrial-standard/view-all-products.html

which is coincidentally where I bought my bits that I am awaiting, as I was told that Vessel made the best JIS drivers.

I will have a few left over as I ordered three pieces each (one for me, one for the girl, and one for her son) of two three piece sets, unfortunately the #3 is one of the ones that exists only in one set so I'll end up with extra #1 & #2 but not the one that you actually need... but they aren't that expensive. I ordered the small and large (0-1-2 and 1-2-3) 3 piece sets and then the four piece 5/16" impact bit set with one flat blade. Still need to source a 3/8" square to 5/16" hex impact bit holder so I can use them with my hand impact as all the bits I have now are snap-on which each have their own attached bit holder.
 
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Outlawmws

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N8N, you can't believe everything you see posted on the internet:

These screws ARE Phillips. The difference between the two is that the tip is flat on JIS and the inside corner on JIS drivers is pretty much a sharp right angle while Philips has effectively a radius, (two angles approximate it)


The tip angles are the same between JIS and Phillips:

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And the Phillips inside "radius" vs, the sharp angle of JIS:

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And here are the screws in question:

attachment.php


Believe me, after all these years of wrenching on Zuks, if they had been JIS, I'd have the JIS drivers...

JIS drivers WILL work on Phillips, but clearly the reverse is not true.

:beer:
 

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n8n

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Is cool, I know nothing about Suzukis, but am cognizant of the difference between Phillips and JIS. Just wanted to make sure that you were as well... and this is a subject that is recent to me as I fell down a rabbit hole when I realized that I a) worked on cars that used Pozidriv screws and b) had neither Pozidriv nor JIS drivers or bits and in true OCD fashion had to immediately rectify the situation :)
 

stage20

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Cut a long one and weld it up any length you want. Personally a screwdriver is the devil on a sammy. I use hand impact driver or my dewalt impact to bust loose. 30 years of road grime and mud, I've stripped a few. Usually end up grinding a flat in the head hen using impact driver with flat bit lol. Those samurais sure are fun
 
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Drake9

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Isn't there a guy on here that makes custom drivers and things. Can't remember his name at the moment though. I bet he could make it
 

jakemac

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Outlaw - You could always try contacting Steve from Enderes to see if he would make a custom one for you. :dunno:
 

toolmutt

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They aren't difficult to make. I've made several, just not a #3. You just simply press a #3 stubby blade into a #3 full size handle. Also, a 1/4" hex drive bit fits very well into a #2 handle. Below is a pic of a set I made with a #1, #2, some flats and 1/4" and 3/8" square drive spinners. In another set (sorry no pictures) I put a 1/4" hex drive interchangeable insert bit for torx bits. I've had no problem with any of them slipping.
 

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Outlawmws

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Toolmutt, factory drivers always have some mechanism for locking the shank into the handle. Even square shank drivers have their shape to prevent twisting. This will be a fairly high torque driver. Did you do anything to provide a locking feature?
 

toolmutt

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With the regular drivers, I removed a long blade from a full size handle that was the same size as the stubby blade I wanted to insert. That way the "ears" on the stubby shaft matched the opening left by the ears on the old shaft. It's the same process as the Snappy truck replacing a blade under warranty, except that I used a stubby blade for replacement. For the hex bits, the 1/4" size was a fairly tight fit into a handle that had a #2 phillips blade removed. I lined up edges on opposite sides of the hex with the slots left by the ears of the removed shaft. I've not had any issues but my applications may not require the amount of torque that yours will.
 
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Mohawk Dave

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When outlaw asks whether such a tool exists. Odds are it doesn't.

it's so stupid the way most tool manufacturers make the screwdrivers. The number 3 and number 4 are linearly longer. Just because the screw is larger does not mean I'm further away. I've never understood that
 

Jarhead0408

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You know, I've never thought about it that way Dave. You're right though.

Most #4 Phillips are VERY long, and yet I usually use a 3/8 breaker bar and an appropriate screwdriver socket instead.
 
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Outlawmws

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it's so stupid the way most tool manufacturers make the screwdrivers. The number 3 and number 4 are linearly longer. Just because the screw is larger does not mean I'm further away. I've never understood that

You know, I've never thought about it that way Dave. You're right though.

Most #4 Phillips are VERY long, and yet I usually use a 3/8 breaker bar and an appropriate screwdriver socket instead.

Exactly why I'm looking for this...
 

gj67stang

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Isn't there a guy on here that makes custom drivers and things. Can't remember his name at the moment though. I bet he could make it

Patiently waiting for gj67stang to chime in since he makes all kinds of custom drivers. I'm curious to the solution to Outlaws dilemma

Now I know why my ears were ringing this morning....:lol_hitti

As far as I know, there is not an existing tool that matches your needs. Pressing a long bit into a handle would work, but depending on how much torque your screws require, the handle may eventually "strip out."

I propose adding a hex bolster to a shortened P3 shaft and inserting into your handle of choice. The shaft would require decent "tangs" to prevent twisting in the handle.
 

T45

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Couple of options if you don't get the exact one already:



Snap on full-size ratcheting driver handle +

with the 50mm interchangbile shank (avail seperately from stubby handle)

and a ph3 bit in 30mm length



Or, if you have a stubby square drive

A cman usa deep-broached 50mm long, 1/4 drive socket

any 30 or 50mm ph3 bit (in 5/16 shank),

(benefit of the latter is you can use w/ ratchet or breaker)


Or a PB swiss stubby bit holder with PB swiss 30mm or 50mm bit

(This comes in a t-handle option or swissgrip etc)

(+You can use a box end wrench on the hex-bit part, as needed)
 

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Davefr

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Download the PB Swiss catalog. There are many different styles of bit holders to choose from. Now choose #3 Ph. in your choice of length (10, 24 or 70 mm)
 
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Outlawmws

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Now I know why my ears were ringing this morning....:lol_hitti

As far as I know, there is not an existing tool that matches your needs. Pressing a long bit into a handle would work, but depending on how much torque your screws require, the handle may eventually "strip out."

I propose adding a hex bolster to a shortened P3 shaft and inserting into your handle of choice. The shaft would require decent "tangs" to prevent twisting in the handle.

Yeah, it's looking a bit grim for a fixed driver unless I do this. Do you think a 5/16 hex pressed in would hold, or should I make it more aggressively bite? I have that Stanley drive handle, and it had a round shank with "wings" on it.

I've done precisely one "custom driver handle " that I can recall, and that was replacing the handle on a dual end bezel tool that crystallized and shattered. Low torque and an easy fix. This won't be low torque at all.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, keep em coming if you have one. It's not over till the fat lady sings...
 

Mohawk Dave

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Outlaw,

I made a custom job before, and just welded a (kinda) straight bead on the shank, and hit it with the flap disc real quick to thin it out, heated it up and pressed it in a soft Cman Pro.

Not as Pro as 67stang, but it did/does work. Just an idea.
 

kball

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I just got this little ratcheting stubby. Pretty nice. And a number 3 bit fits in it perfectly.
 

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