Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!

[jakemac]

Made in West Germany make it an import from the east, doesn't it ?

That looks like a stout wee beastie.

 

[Fretters]

Seem to recall those grinders being classed as quite a sturdy bit of kit. Seem to recall seeing them under a different brand name too, but I'll be damned if I can remember what that is at the moment.

Made in West Germany make it an import from the east, doesn't it ?

Would that mean that East Germany would have classed as the Far East?

Seems weird recalling it as East/West Germany.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Made in West Germany make it an import from the east, doesn't it ?

That looks like a stout wee beastie.

Thats what I thought too... good, wide wheels, the only problem if you plan on restoring it is finding the stickers/decals for it (Write Hanning, they're still in business, see below), but it looks like a good, usable, servicable machine... and for all of €10, and running well, how can you go wrong??

Hanning Elektro-werke has been around for decades making motors... we had some controls on the Bridge that were made by them - Very high quality stuff... I would actually say (respectfully) that your score has a suckage factor rating of +10.

BTW - link to Hanning - http://www.hanning-hew.de/wEnglisch/produkte/index.shtml

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I built this one in 1958. It has completely worn out 2 sets of stones. The original GE Maytag wringer washing machine motor and belt had to be replaced a year ago. Runs 1700 rpm and I wouldn't trade it for any 3450 rpm grinder I ever used and I've used some good ones.

 

[pozidriv]

Thanks for the comments! I find it fascinating as well that only 25 years ago, there was east/west germany, USSR, Berlin wall... I've actually got quite a few tools that say w-germany. Never seen a far eastern (e-germany) import tool however
Any advice on the non-ringing wheels issue? They seem fine, is it safe to continue using them?

I love your home made grinder!!! Did you built everything from scratch or cannibalized some parts from other grinders? Also like the square nuts securing it to the cable!

 

[drivesitfar]

Pozi: We talked about the ring and no ring stones in the Craftsman block thread that is also in this Vintage tool section now. apparently some types of stones will never ring. you'll need to know the different types of materials to be sure which is which.

also check under one of those lighted magnifiers to check for cracks because if there is even a hairline crack the stone can explode. you should always stand to the side a bit when grinding and just use the front of the stone. also don't grind aluminum and dress (clean by using one of several grinding tools) any stones that are used before you bought a used grinder or when one gets a bit full of a material you are grinding.

that's a quick summary and if you want to do some reading on grinder safety i started a fairly graphic thread with a video of guy having pieces of their arms and legs shredded and even killed.

i love the quality of a lot of European old tools and wish we had a good way to ship them over here to the US.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Thanks for the comment pozidriv.

I was fortunate in school to have a full machine shop available. Yes, everything was shop made including the flange washers and nuts. Not made were the sealed bearings and stones of course. The castings were poured at a local foundry so to to complete that the bearing boss were bored on a Brown & Sharp mill. Originally it had rests but I found the design lacking and removed them. I really don't miss them.

Keeping the belt tensioned correctly on that set up was a big headache and I didn't learn how to easily solve that problem until I got older and had more time to think. It's really simple.

 

[pozidriv]

****, I hoped I could avoid reading the Craftsman block thread, since I don't have one and it's 200 pages long
I'll have to do some more research on grinding stones and their uses and maybe swap these old ones out anyway, just out of precaution.
And good grief, that's a horrible video! Glad I saw it though, my father asked me only yesterday if he could use it on aluminium, me: "yeah sure, why not!?!" Lack of knowledge is dangerous, yet powertools are so commonplace that we don't actually realize our inexperience and the inherent risks.
I think some of you guys would go crazy here. Some places are just littered with old, heavy duty tools. No one seems to be really interested in them and I figure a lot gets scrapped since the prices are so low. When I see the prices for some vises p) in North America, I just can't believe it. Here there's a decent market for vintage cars and motorcycles, but vintage tools and machinery are pretty much ignored. New=better.

 

[firemanast]

I built this one in 1958. It has completely worn out 2 sets of stones. The original GE Maytag wringer washing machine motor and belt had to be replaced a year ago. Runs 1700 rpm and I wouldn't trade it for any 3450 rpm grinder I ever used and I've used some good ones.

That is one sweet grinder that you built !

 

[exmaxima1]

I built this one in 1958. It has completely worn out 2 sets of stones. The original GE Maytag wringer washing machine motor and belt had to be replaced a year ago. Runs 1700 rpm and I wouldn't trade it for any 3450 rpm grinder I ever used and I've used some good ones.

I'm guessing you maintain belt tension with a hinged mount, as those link belts stretch like crazy.
I made a similar setup 25 years ago when I needed a buffer for my knife hobby. 70 year old Dunlap motor still works fine, but I upgraded the arbor recently. The guards are plastic pail bottoms. Yours looks better!

 

[CreteCoater]

OK guys. Can anyone tell me what I have here? I can't really make it out since the plate is so scuffed.

 

[Kevski]

Here's a Cincinnati from the 1930s that I just finished up. It came out of a carpentry shop, and used open bearings -- the grease and wood dust really clogged things up inside. There were about 33 coats of paint on it too.

Everything was blasted to white metal with garnet media (even the stator case -- had to press the windings out... not easy), then painted with a polyester epoxy marine paint, applied with a roller. Cast iron really ***** that stuff up, and small voids can be filled without using any body filler.

As I don't have three-phase power, a VFD was required. Found a small one in the parts bin and installed it in the pedestal, and ran a power cord out the back.

Photos show it nearly complete, I still need to paint the switch box, touch up the fastener heads, and install the tool rests.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Oh MY CreteCoater- my eyes aren't that good either. Sometimes a light, with LED bulbs, directed at different acute angles makes some letters and numbers stand out better. Good luck.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Nice one Kevski. Beautiful work.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I'm guessing you maintain belt tension with a hinged mount, as those link belts stretch like crazy.
I made a similar setup 25 years ago when I needed a buffer for my knife hobby. 70 year old Dunlap motor still works fine, but I upgraded the arbor recently. The guards are plastic pail bottoms. Yours looks better!

The original motor had aluminum ends and not enough weight to tension the belt. It also had a Resilient base so I made the base to pivot on the front edge and the two screws you can see near the front stabilize it. Those are not tightened. Tension is adjusted with the larger screw in the rear forcing the base down in the rear. It worked so well, when I bought the new motor I purchased one that would fit the same Resilient base.

 

[BJ42LX]

Here's a Cincinnati from the 1930s that I just finished up.

That looks pretty sweet.

You've got a pretty clean casting there. I have a similar base that, after sandblasting, looked like it was cast from concrete instead of iron. It was like staring down someone's *******.

 

[exmaxima1]

It also had a Resilient base so I made the base to pivot on the front edge and the two screws you can see near the front stabilize it. Those are not tightened. Tension is adjusted with the larger screw in the rear forcing the base down in the rear. It worked so well, when I bought the new motor I purchased one that would fit the same Resilient base.

I get it. It pivots on a pair of screws----very similar to the tremolo bar on a Stratocaster. Clever.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I get it. It pivots on a pair of screws----very similar to the tremolo bar on a Stratocaster. Clever.

Actually it pivots on the front edge of the base and the screws near the front are to keep it from squirming because of belt tension.

 

[Fretters]

I built this one in 1958.

Nice work. All the more special when it's made by yourself.

You've got a pretty clean casting there. I have a similar base that, after sandblasting, looked like it was cast from concrete instead of iron. It was like staring down someone's *******.

Ain't even gonna ask how you'd know that.

 

[jakemac]

Ain't even gonna ask how you'd know that.

Aww geeez - now that you mentioned it, he's gonna tell us.

 

[zkling]

Let's just hope he is a proctologist.

 

[jakemac]

Let's hope that he's a Professional proctologist. The amateurs can be a bit sketchy.

 

[Outlawmws]

Maybe he... No, never mind...

 

[nine4gmc]

Nice grinder Kevski!! Great job cleaning it up too!!

I'm not even going to touch on BJs statement

 

[drivesitfar]

Kevski: just curious how you ended up keeping your VFD in place inside the cast iron stand? is the conduit from above holding it up inside? awesome restoration and i do like Cincinnati grinders.

BJ: i'm sure you didn't mean that, but the banana is peeled now.

 

[Fretters]

BJ: i'm sure you didn't mean that, but the banana is peeled now.

Those may well have been the words he used too, just before he found that info out.


Edit: I know my mind works in a weird fashion, but this tangent has set me off thinking of Armageddon now.

 

[CreteCoater]

Oh MY CreteCoater- my eyes aren't that good either. Sometimes a light, with LED bulbs, directed at different acute angles makes some letters and numbers stand out better. Good luck.

I'll try the led tomorrow!

 

[Fretters]

A light rub with some paraffin/kerosene/white spirit on a rag can sometimes make the info on those tags a tad easier to see Crete.

 

[mikegt4]

How about a 3/4 hp Dayton for $50. Pictures look good, then you read the description.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4843005983.html

 

[drivesitfar]

Mike: you needed to read the last line in the ad. the grinder isn't included and $50 is just for the stand that will hold a 6 or 8 inch grinder.

Fretters: take a look at this weed killer thread i started last week. i swear i wrote Armageddon in that thread about an hour before you mentioned it on here. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277402

 

[mikegt4]

Mike: you needed to read the last line in the ad. the grinder isn't included and $50 is just for the stand that will hold a 6 or 8 inch grinder.

Fretters: take a look at this weed killer thread i started last week. i swear i wrote Armageddon in that thread about an hour before you mentioned it on here. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277402

Exactly, why even show the actual grinder if you are not selling it?

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: take a look at this weed killer thread i started last week. i swear i wrote Armageddon in that thread about an hour before you mentioned it on here. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277402

Must be something in the air. Have you clicked on that link above as yet though? Might find it has a slightly different meaning on there.

 

[drivesitfar]

Mike: sorry i just re read your post saying you already knew it wasn't included.

 

[gregthor]

OK guys. Can anyone tell me what I have here? I can't really make it out since the plate is so scuffed.

It looks like my Browm Brockmeyer B Line grinder

Look this brand up on vintage machinery

 

[CreteCoater]

It looks like my Browm Brockmeyer B Line grinder

Look this brand up on vintage machinery

That is it! Thanks!

 

[gregthor]

That is it! Thanks!

CreteCoater

Mine is show on post 3381 on page 170 of the vintage block grinder thread, it is towards the end.

Mine is ugly but sure runs smooth and has good power. I will redo it some day

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I'm guessing you maintain belt tension with a hinged mount, as those link belts stretch like crazy.
I made a similar setup 25 years ago when I needed a buffer for my knife hobby. 70 year old Dunlap motor still works fine, but I upgraded the arbor recently. The guards are plastic pail bottoms. Yours looks better!

Your belt driven buffer and similar equipment, with the base your motor has, can have belt tension self adjusting, via motor weight, by building a shallow box of sorts to set the motor in.

If the belt stretches, to adjust the amount of motor tilt a wood shim strip is added in the front which moves the motor rearward that amount and changes the motor angle. This is one I built for an old 1945 Craftsman table saw with tilt table. It won't work of course with a tilting arbor saw.

I've since built one for my band saw and another 1947 Craftsman tilt table saw. With this system the motors set to the rear rather than down below in all the saw dust.

 

[exmaxima1]

Your belt driven buffer and similar equipment, with the base your motor has, can have belt tension self adjusting, via motor weight, by building a shallow box of sorts to set the motor in.

I think you are over-thinking this. For years the tension was handled by motor weight alone, with no shimming required. Attached is a pic of an old Foley belt sander that came with a factory motor pivot. Compensates for belt stretch and exceptional easy to change belt speeds. I recently added a spring to it since those link belts like to jump around under load, but motor weigh alone works pretty well.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I think you are over-thinking this. For years the tension was handled by motor weight alone, with no shimming required. Attached is a pic of an old Foley belt sander that came with a factory motor pivot. Compensates for belt stretch and exceptional easy to change belt speeds. I recently added a spring to it since those link belts like to jump around under load, but motor weigh alone works pretty well.

Which one would you rather build, mine or yours? The motor weight tensions this belt. I'm not sure you understand the shimming. It just can't get more simplified.

 

[BJ42LX]

I think you are over-thinking this. For years the tension was handled by motor weight alone, with no shimming required. Attached is a pic of an old Foley belt sander that came with a factory motor pivot. Compensates for belt stretch and exceptional easy to change belt speeds. I recently added a spring to it since those link belts like to jump around under load, but motor weigh alone works pretty well.

Ex,

Do you find the vibration free link belt stretches over time?

I put one on my table saw last year. A couple weeks ago I checked the setup and the motor had drooped to the bottom of its travel. I removed two links and all is well.

Is there some sort of initial stretch associated with new belts?