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Lubrication for a DIY'er ratchets

charlie85

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I find threads all over the place suggesting Super Lube from harbor freight which is just about the same as my dry lube from wd40 or Permatex 81950 but people say it leaks out if you use too much and I don't know how to rebuild engines. So I rather use my current grease/lube/oil/solvents that I have which I'll list and If I do have to buy something It needs to be something I can use for other things and not just to lube up ratchets once every year or so.

I have a set of kobalt 72 tooth ratchets (Taiwan for all you COO guys) their a sealed head type with two screws on the back next to the push button and a set of gearwrench 84 tooth flex head ratchets (also Taiwan) they use a snap ring.

Now on to my list of on hand canned liquids and yes I know three of these are penetrates.[emoji19]

I have...
WD40
WD40 rust release
WD40 dry lube
WD40 silicone
WD40 and CRC white lithium
CRC silaramic brake grease
CRC knocker loose
Permatex anti seize
Permatex dielectric grease
Seafoam Deep Creep

So guys like I said I would prefer to use what I have but I need some help in deciding what's best. But if I have to buy something I would too be able to use it for other applications beyond oiling up ratchets.
 
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charlie85

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And yes I'm new but I'm a long time stalker of these forums lol, so I hope I put this in the right section.
 
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charlie85

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Typically I just do what my father did to his and use white lithium grease. But now apparently that's now old school, I thought using my dry lube with ptfe would be equivalent to super lube everyone loves so much
 

Ponchoguy

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For my Craftsman ratchets, SAE30 just like the rebuild directions state. Worked fine for me thus far.
 

RalloZ35

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I'm with dutchgray, any oil you have will work.. For non sealed ratchets with a low tooth count I actually like thin grease.. Makes them quiet, smooth, and pleasant to use. Otherwise, I often get some nice smelly 80-90w in there!
 
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charlie85

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I know you guys are recommending me super lube and marvel mystery oil, 80-90w was mentioned... but I really leaning towards just using either my dry lube or the white lithium [emoji16]

Not that I don't trust you guys I'm sure you all know your stuff but I'm trying to take minimalist approach when it comes to lubes and solvents. I don't wanna be that guy that has a shelf that looks like the lubricant isle in advanced auto parts lol
 
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charlie85

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I'm not against buying marvel mystery oil, I'll just mix the rest with my gas and oil in my car. But now I have two questions on super lube

Super Lube is a tube or bottle if synthetic lube with ptfe, what make it's ingredients different than my spray on wd40 specialist dry lube? I'm not good with msds charts so help is appreciated.

And...

If I did have the tube super lube, any ideas of what else i can use it for? That I can't do with my current lubes and solvents?
 

bonneyman

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I know you guys are recommending me super lube and marvel mystery oil, 80-90w was mentioned... but I really leaning towards just using either my dry lube or the white lithium [emoji16]

Not that I don't trust you guys I'm sure you all know your stuff but I'm trying to take minimalist approach when it comes to lubes and solvents. I don't wanna be that guy that has a shelf that looks like the lubricant isle in advanced auto parts lol

Been there, have that!:shocking:
 

Jim C.

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I know you guys are recommending me super lube and marvel mystery oil, 80-90w was mentioned... but I really leaning towards just using either my dry lube or the white lithium [emoji16]

Not that I don't trust you guys I'm sure you all know your stuff but I'm trying to take minimalist approach when it comes to lubes and solvents. I don't wanna be that guy that has a shelf that looks like the lubricant isle in advanced auto parts lol

You asked, we responded, but you want to use what you already have. So why did you ask? Okay, pick one from your current on-hand stock and go with it......kind of annoying and a dumb thread to say the least. Here's some advice new guy.....Next time you pose a question to the group, don't tell us how to answer it too.

Jim C. (Who will delete his post above because he failed to give the OP the answer he wanted to hear.)
 
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ihateminimumwage

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I was using Engine Assembly Lube (RLL on here) for my ratchets, but recently became a Superlube convert for pearhead ratchets (Williams 36 tooth, Snap-On Dual 80s, and 72 tooth Kobalt). I still use red grease for round heads (SK in all 3 sizes, as well as SK and Snap-On roto ratchets).
If I did have the tube super lube, any ideas of what else i can use it for? That I can't do with my current lubes and solvents?
I use it as dielectric with wiring connections and spark plugs. Also lubed my drawer slides (ball bearing bottom box and friction top box) and it made a world of difference over the dry lube I had on the friction slides before.

It's absolutely worth grabbing a tube of it.:thumbup:
 
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charlie85

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No you guys didn't answer my question, so there's no need to be rude Jim C.

My question was from my current on hand lubes what would be best, because I don't wanna buy a product when I have some stuff already on hand.

And the responses I got was
Super Lube and Marvel mystery oil... so no my question wasn't answered. I can see becoming a member of garage journal and asking a question was obviously a mistake.
 

LumpyMusic

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Either half of the tinest bit of whatever you have on hand (and that will be too much) or nothing at all.

I've got 50+ year old ratchets that I've never lubed. I've got a 20 year old ratchet that I lubed once with a toothpick of white lith. It leaks white grease when it sits in the drawer and esp when you use it in the heat.

So I"m thinking I'll stay with the "nothing" choice for the remainder of my ratchets.

Way too much fretting over "this lube for that brand, this other lube for this other brand, this one for the quarters, this one for the 3/8ths". Jeez dip them in kerosene once every decade and blow them off with shop air. That'll lube the guts and coat the finish. Or skip the kerosene and just blow them off with air.


Sgt Lumpy
 
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charlie85

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Thank you ihateminimumwage maybe I'll crack and give super lube a try, but I pose a question to you since you're the most helpful.

White lithium or dry lube for your 72 tooth ratchet head... what would you choose?
 

ihateminimumwage

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My question was from my current on hand lubes what would be best, because I don't wanna buy a product when I have some stuff already on hand.
I haven't used the Permatex Dielectric, but have used the CRC varient, and it's honestly not far off from Superlube. Out of what your have, that might be your best bet. I put a good amount into the ratchet head, and it quiets them down and makes them insanely smooth to use.
And the responses I got was
Super Lube and Marvel mystery oil... so no my question wasn't answered. I can see becoming a member of garage journal and asking a question was obviously a mistake.
Get used to it. :D
If you've been lurking, you've most likely seen the threads that turn into a **** show of fighting over whether to go with either Harbor Freight or Snap-On, with the original question having nothing to do with either.

EDIT: Sorry, I was typing as you posted your last question.
Thank you ihateminimumwage maybe I'll crack and give super lube a try, but I pose a question to you since you're the most helpful.

White lithium or dry lube for your 72 tooth ratchet head... what would you choose?
White lithium or Dielectric would be my recommendation. Dry lube won't do anything for smoothness or noise, it would only reduce the minimal wear from use.
 
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charlie85

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Unfortunately, yeah I've seen some threads that people try to convince weekend wrench guys like me to buy snapon tools lol.

But thank you ihateminimumwage for your help I'll give it a shot and try the dielectric and see how it goes in my ratchets and using the super lube on the slides on tool chest is a good idea too.

Maybe I'll try that dielectric on my dad's old 1970 New Britain 3/8 too.
 

Fretters

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No you guys didn't answer my question, so there's no need to be rude Jim C.

My question was from my current on hand lubes what would be best, because I don't wanna buy a product when I have some stuff already on hand.

And the responses I got was
Super Lube and Marvel mystery oil... so no my question wasn't answered. I can see becoming a member of garage journal and asking a question was obviously a mistake.

The question has been answered. In summary, just use whatever you have. Oil, grease, fancy lube, it matters not.
 

sselander

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I gave up on white lithium years ago, it attracts dirt. Some of the ratchets respond better with oil vs grease. My 1/4" Gearwrench for example needs oil, anything else, the ratchet binds up. (The spring inside is very small and the grease just binds it up) Most ratchets work for years with whatever is in them, usually nothing.
 

Virgil Cain

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No you guys didn't answer my question, so there's no need to be rude Jim C.

My question was from my current on hand lubes what would be best, because I don't wanna buy a product when I have some stuff already on hand.

And the responses I got was
Super Lube and Marvel mystery oil... so no my question wasn't answered. I can see becoming a member of garage journal and asking a question was obviously a mistake.

Most of the products you list aren't really well suited for lubing a ratchet. The only things on your list that I'd use would be the white lithium or maybe the brake grease (depending on how thick it is). The dielectric grease would probably work as well.

The other people in the thread were trying to give you ideas for products that would be well suited to your task.
 
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valentine

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From what's on your list of available compounds, I would use either the CRC Brake Grease or the Dielectric Grease. I don't think you would go wrong with either of those.

-Valentine
 

winlinmac

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Why not use Vasoline? :bounce:
Kidding aside, I hear the new Craftsman is usually dry inside
 

neuralsnafu

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Out of the options given, I'd go with the dielectric, just a little bit as that stuff gets tacky (or at least its a pain in the *** to get off your fingers)
 

ihateminimumwage

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But thank you ihateminimumwage for your help I'll give it a shot and try the dielectric and see how it goes in my ratchets and using the super lube on the slides on tool chest is a good idea too.

Maybe I'll try that dielectric on my dad's old 1970 New Britain 3/8 too.
The best part is you can always clean them back out and try another lubricant if you don't like the results. After you have a ratchet apart a couple of times, it becomes second nature to put them back together.:thumbup:
 

rlitman

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Not that I don't trust you guys I'm sure you all know your stuff but I'm trying to take minimalist approach when it comes to lubes and solvents. I don't wanna be that guy that has a shelf that looks like the lubricant isle in advanced auto parts lol

Darn! I think I'd have to fill a 20 yard dumpster so I could get back to that point.

But seriously, my choice of ratchet lubes: ATF or Tri-Flow if I want something thinner.
I like dry lubes for things that can get dirty, but ratchets are sealed for a reason. For me, grease makes the pawl stick too much, so I want a liquid lubricant.
 

Adam.C

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Every homeowner needs the following readily available lubricants:
- WD-40 - preferably with the straw
- 3 in 1 oil
- Vaseline

If you already have salad bowl oil or cutting board oil, that is mineral oil and can be substituted for 3 in 1. Super Lube is very similar to Vaseline. It just has PTFE (teflon) suspended in it. Vaseline is Mineral Oil and is perfectly compatible with 3 in 1 and WD-40 for that matter.

If you are rebuilding an old ratchet, disassemble and hose the parts down using the WD-40. Scrub with an old tooth brush. Reassemble all parts wet with 3 in 1.

If you have a sealed pear head type ratchet, a small dab of vaseline under the gear and under the face plate is a good idea. It will decrease friction, (helping reduce back drag, which is actually pretty important). In a true sealed head, that grease will stay there until the tool is over heated (left out in the sun on a hot day will do it).

The thing to remember about lubing ratchets is that you don't want to pack the teeth with sticky grease (or any grease). You want the locking pawl to snap home with a mechanical clicking sound to ensure it is fully engaged. Don't attempt to "quiet" a ratchet with grease. All quieting does is weaken the ratchet, and decrease its life span. Its quieter because instead of the pawl striking home, it runs into a glob of grease in the root of the gear teeth.

A thin film of oil is the best you can do for a round head ratchet. These are all basically unsealed/unsealable. If you are using it in Afghanistan, or while you are blowing out ancient disk brakes with compressed air, you will need to rebuild if possible. If not possible, hose it down with the Wd-40, oil as best you can and move on. Guys who talk about soaking ratchets in ATF probably learned this trick from the users of round head ratchets.

The Super Lubes, RLL, etc comments are high performing solutions for high performing ratchets and make sense for heavy users like pro auto mechanics. Slippery greases with low shear resistance, but stay in place an reduce back drag when applied correctly.

"Back Drag" is the torque required to get a ratchet to ratchet. When a ratchet has low back drag, it allows you to remove or install new hardware with a ratcheting action (and without touching the hardware) because the torque required to back out the fastener, even with clean threads, exceeds the torque required to make the ratchet go "click". Fine toothed ratchets typically have had lower back drag, which is one reason why guys love them. But historically, fine teeth have meant small surface engagement with the pawl and a weaker ratchet.
 

dkop1

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I've got various ratchets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive. Pittsburgh, Kobalt, Craftsman, Wright, and Williams, etc. I've never had a problem with 30 weight, 3-in-1, or remington gun oil (didn't intend to use that one... it was all that was handy) in any of them. So I'd say any light oil really. I never personally liked wd-40 though, gets kinda gummy.
 

dkop1

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Wd40/wd40 silicone or permatex dielectric seems like a good choice from your list. I've never seen that permatex though, I'm just assuming it's like superlube.

Sent from my MotoE2 using Tapatalk
 

M6erfan

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41lRQpiOenL._SY445_.jpg


It's what i've used, same as your dielectric...
 

finn

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Break open your wallet and buy a tube of the SuperLube synthetic grease.

It only costs a couple of dollars, I'd guess less than a Latte at Starbucks, and a tube will probably last you 30 years.
 

lightning02

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I have always used superlube. It's done great for my ratchets. I put very little on my 1/4dr ratchets tho.

The only ratchets I never lubed where my cman RP. I did once and the engagement would never hold so ever since that I never lubed them. But I no longer use cman ratchets anyways.
 
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