3/8 drive torque wrench for head bolts

[kkinla]

Hi everyone: I bought a Gearwrench digital torque wrench with a built in angle meter for a head gasket job. The manual says torque the head bolts in 3 steps: First, torque them to 25 foot pounds. Second- turn them 90 degrees. Third, turn them another 90 degrees. The manual says lube the bolts threads and under the bolt heads with oil. When I broke the head bolts loose on the head, I used a 1/2 inch drive 24 in long breaker bar, these head bolts were on really tight. Now, my question is: Can this torque wrench handle the job without the gear head breaking on me for this high torque requirement. I bought this digital wrench thinking that with a built in angle meter it would be easier to do the job without resetting the angle and finding a different spot for attaching the dial angle meter for every bolt.
This torque wrench can torque up to 100 foot pounds.
The manual says to mark the head bolts with a paint mark in the front after the first 25 foot pounds and with the 2 additional 90 degrees, the paint mark will be in the back at finish. Is it a better way to do this job without spending extra money for a dial angle meter?
I'd like to hear what you guys say. Thanks.

 

[gsingh]

torque it to 25 foot pounds and then use the breaker bar to do the degrees.

 

[LXCam]

All torque to yield bolts still attain a value. Most heads torque between 80-110lbs for gas engines. Personally I wouldn't go with 3/8's for head bolts but I'm not sure what it is you're putting together. I'm not a fan of using a torque wrench at max value.

 

[kkinla]

It is a Toyota 6 cylinder head gasket job replacement. I use a clicker type 3/8 torque wrench with an adapter to torque the wheel lugs at 76 lbs without problems. When I broke these head bolts loose with a 1/2 drive breaker bar, I really had to push hard to break them loose. That's why I am not sure if this 18 inch 3/8 torque wrench can handle the high torque demand. On hindsight, I should have gone a 1/2 digital one.

 

[MattVette89]

25 lbs is not a lot. You'll be fine. Torque to 25 and use the breaker for the final sequence as mentioned above.

 

[LXCam]

Good luck using a breaker bar is most engine bays, there's a damn good reason the swivel head digital angles were made.

 

[kkinla]

I bought a digital torque wrench with an angle meter for the convenience without the hassle of setting up a dial angle meter for every bolt. I have no idea what the final torque valve would be with the last 90 degree turn. And this digital torque wrench has a 10 or 15, can remember which, degrees flex angle.

 

[ez-duzit]

torque it to 25 foot pounds and then use the breaker bar to do the degrees.

This.

 

[franzdom]

I recall reading here that digital angle torque wrenches can safely go over their max torque setting.

 

[kkinla]

This.

+ a cheater bar if necessary, right.

 

[kkinla]

I recall reading here that digital angle torque wrenches can safely go over their max torque setting.

Would it throw the accuracy off?

 

[ez-duzit]

If you torque them using a breaker bar with cheater, you'll be looking for a machine shop to remove the broken bolts.

90 degrees is very easy to visualize without any special degree indicator. It is a right angle!

 

[dnschmidt]

You will never get to final angle without overloading the torque wrench. Once you do that it will go into an error mode and you will need to send it to Gearwrench's repair facility in Dallas, TX. (see your owner's manual).

This is a big problem. The initial torque is well within the capability of the wrench but the final torque after the angle adjustment is beyond it's max torque capacity. Reply to me if you would like more information.

You will easily be able to do the first 90 degrees. As a matter of fact the tool will display the final torque value reached during the degrees part of the program. It's display will alternate between angle and torque value. But, you're going to run out of range on the second 90.

FRANZDOM: That is completely wrong. Once you go over 110% the wrench will go into error mode. Elcatorq, the brand I sell and is relabeled and also sold by MAC, is fanatical about this. If you overtorque the wrench it will display ERR-0 when you turn it on. This can only be turned off with a special software program (which I have).

 

[logical]

After you get them to the relatively low setting of 25, you are done with the torque wrench. I think my 1/4 inch torque wrench almost goes that high. Use a breaker, ratchet, T-slider, whatever. Start with it pointing forward and swing to pointing sideways, rinse, repeat. There must be some direction you can swing something 90 degrees at each bolt.

 

[DodgeMech]

mark corner of bolt that's pointing right, go till your mark is down, rinse and repeat

 

[kkinla]

I don't it has any problems with going to 25 foot pounds, pushing for the first 90 degrees, it might be able to handle it, but the final 90 degrees might kill it. When I was loosening the head bolts I was really pushing hard to get them loose with a 1/2 inch breaker bar and the break loose point had to be over 100 pounds.
This cylinder head on the right side facing the firewall is slight tilted downwards and there are the cam shafts above the head bolts. I think I'll have a better chance of getting it right with a dial angle meter since there is no going back with these TTY head bolts.

 

[ez-duzit]

Come on! You...don't...need...an...angle...meter...to...measure...90...degrees! Use the edge of a sheet of writing paper if you are visually handicapped.

 

[scarney1988]

Is this a 2gr-fe?? I just did a rear head gasket on one of these.

Follow service manual instructions.

I used a 3/8" digital torque wrench to torque to spec. Then I brake cleaned the head bolts and marked them all in the same spot with a paint marker. Then I performed the two 90 degree sequences using the paint marks to help me know where everything was at.

I would not jeopardize my torque wrench for angle measurements you can perform with paint and your eyes.

GOOD LUCK either way.

 

[kkinla]

Come on! You...don't...need...an...angle...meter...to...measure...90...degrees! Use the edge of a sheet of writing paper if you are visually handicapped.

I'd go a little more high tech with a protractor fitted to the breaker bar.

 

[DodgeMech]

I'd go a little more high tech with a protractor fitted to the breaker bar.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UMRXSW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

ish?

 

[kkinla]

Is this a 2gr-fe?? I just did a rear head gasket on one of these.

Follow service manual instructions.

I used a 3/8" digital torque wrench to torque to spec. Then I brake cleaned the head bolts and marked them all in the same spot with a paint marker. Then I performed the two 90 degree sequences using the paint marks to help me know where everything was at.

I would not jeopardize my torque wrench for angle measurements you can perform with paint and your eyes.

GOOD LUCK either way.

2vzfe
Does yours have the camshafts over the head bolts?

 

[scarney1988]

Yes. I just finished it this friday.

Cam carriers + camshafts were right over all head bolts.

Do you have factory service manual?

 

[kkinla]

Yes. I just finished it this friday.

Cam carriers + camshafts were right over all head bolts.

Do you have factory service manual?

Is the right cylinder head also tilted slight downwards? I do have the FSM but it shows everything done at eye level, I don't want to take the hood off to do this job. I might have to use a mirror to see where the paint marks are when I do it. Thanks.

 

[scarney1988]

What model and year is the vehicle?

For the 2grfe I had to lift the sienna body off the front subframe to gain access. The right hand head on a toyota transverse mount engine faces the firewall.

 

[kkinla]

What model and year is the vehicle?

For the 2grfe I had to lift the sienna body off the front subframe to gain access. The right hand head on a toyota transverse mount engine faces the firewall.

91 Camry 2VZFE

 

[scarney1988]

I have never worked on that particular set up. Though I used to own a 1991 camry LE 3sfe auto.

how does the FSM say to approach this job?? Drop subframe? Pull engine? Leave engine in and R+I headgasket??

If you do not pull engine than I assume the hood will come off and hopefully the cowl area unbolts (toyota likes to do that). Either way you will not have the birds eye view the manual provides unless the engine is removed from the engine bay.

 

[kkinla]

I have never worked on that particular set up. Though I used to own a 1991 camry LE 3sfe auto.

how does the FSM say to approach this job?? Drop subframe? Pull engine? Leave engine in and R+I headgasket??

If you do not pull engine than I assume the hood will come off and hopefully the cowl area unbolts (toyota likes to do that). Either way you will not have the birds eye view the manual provides unless the engine is removed from the engine bay.

I bought this 3/8 digital torque wrench with angle for the reason of not having to setting up a dial type angle meter. However, I underestimated the angle turns would put such a high load on the torque wrench for this job.

 

[scarney1988]

Time to purchase a 1/2" with angle feature or just mark everything and use a mirror and a light. I do not think marking it and going that route would be that difficult IMO. Also you could remove axles and cherry pick the engine+trans unit and do it out of the car.

EDIT: Just reread your posts and noticed you already have the head bolts off/loose. With that I would say

-paint marker + breaker bar
-Angle adapter
-1/2" torque wrench with angle feature

 

[kkinla]

Time to purchase a 1/2" with angle feature??

may be an angle adapter or another torque wrench.

 

[kkinla]

may be an angle adapter or another torque wrench.

I meant to say an angle adapter, not another torque wrench.
I can do the hand torquing with not much difficulty, but for the right cylinder head which is by the firewall, is a little bit harder, and these are 12 point TTY head bolts. I have to use an extension to reach down to these head bolts and turn the breaker bar with an eye on the angle gauge.

 

[stage20]

torque with wrench, then pull out a breaker bar to stretch the bolts. you can use a sharpie marker. just draw a line. if you cant see the line has moved from 12 oclock to 3 oclock you shouldnt be doing the job. dont over complicate it.

 

[kkinla]

torque with wrench, then pull out a breaker bar to stretch the bolts. you can use a sharpie marker. just draw a line. if you cant see the line has moved from 12 oclock to 3 oclock you shouldnt be doing the job. dont over complicate it.

The benefit of having an angle gauge on the breaker bar you know you are approaching the desired angle, you don't have to guesstimate how much an angle you have turned. A white dot on the head bolt at twelve o'clock before the angle rotation would work.

 

[87slosohc]

Tighten to 25ftlbs, mark the bolt for starting reference, head for 90 and 180. Place socket/breaker bar on at 0, then place it where 90 would finish so you have an idea of where to stop and check.

 

[knobby]

The benefit of having an angle gauge on the breaker bar you know you are approaching the desired angle, you don't have to guesstimate how much an angle you have turned. A white dot on the head bolt at twelve o'clock before the angle rotation would work.

Trying to visualize here,so the finish torque would be with a box wrench or similar so the clocking mark is visible?

 

[VictorBravo]

I like the idea of marking the bolts after initial torquing.

I was tightening the head bolts on an Audi 2.7 a while back. I got halfway through the second set of angles when I was interrupted by something.

Uh-oh. When I got back I couldn't remember which bolt I had just tightened. I ended up going backwards until I noticed the one that didn't really want to go much more.

I was worried I'd have to start over with new bolts because I'd already stretched them some.

 

[kkinla]

I like the idea of marking the bolts after initial torquing.

I was tightening the head bolts on an Audi 2.7 a while back. I got halfway through the second set of angles when I was interrupted by something.

Uh-oh. When I got back I couldn't remember which bolt I had just tightened. I ended up going backwards until I noticed the one that didn't really want to go much more.

I was worried I'd have to start over with new bolts because I'd already stretched them some.

You went backwards and didn't follow the torque sequence. The head gasket is still holding good with no leaks? What's the whole point of torque sequence then.

 

[kkinla]

Trying to visualize here,so the finish torque would be with a box wrench or similar so the clocking mark is visible?

I wish that I could use a box wrench to do it instead of a socket and ratchet so I could see the dot moving as I turned the wrench.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I don't use my torque wrench to turn for the angle after I hit the initial torque.

Most of my torque turning is done either in 60 degree increments or in 90 degree increments. Pretty easy. 90 deg is self explanatory and 60 degrees is every hex corner of a hex head bolt. Paint pen mark at your stopping point and mark the socket on a corner and get r done.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I wish that I could use a box wrench to do it instead of a socket and ratchet so I could see the dot moving as I turned the wrench.

 

[VictorBravo]

You went backwards and didn't follow the torque sequence. The head gasket is still holding good with no leaks? What's the whole point of torque sequence then.

Yes I did, but they had already been torqued and tightened in two installments by the required angles. It was the last pass.

I went backwards in sequence to see which ones seemed to move easier until I got to one that was hard, then proceeded forward the last pass.

I know, not ideal, but the alternative was to take out all the bolts and wait another week for a new set of head bolts. Compression ended up being on the money anyway.

So it goes...