To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Northwest 60x60 shop

Mike777

Active member
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
28
Framing inspection PASS

CLAP CLAP CLAP CLAP.
First time reading this thread. Awesome, just freaking awesome!
Love the design and attention to detail & quality in your build.
And congrats again on the framing inspection pass.
And the IH trucks are cool, not a fan of that era pick-up in general but the IH pickups I've always thought are cool.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

MrQuinn

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2014
Messages
86
Location
Coeur d'Alene, ID
I just found your thread... If only I had the space for a shop that big, I would be in heaven... very nice and thanks for sharing. Sure is nice to watch your build... subscribed!

I have a sister that lives around your area and I get to visit them on occasion. I love it down there... but I'll keep North Idaho for now.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
Thanks everyone, it's been fun sharing. Oct. 6 will be 3 months since the first post went up. I'm ordering the board&batt wood Monday. I keep going back and forth on wood or metal for the siding. Seems they're about the same cost by the time you price in all the metal trim pieces. Today I'm thinking wood. 1x12 doug fir green with 1x4 (or 1x3) batts. Local mill can get me a true 1" x 12" product, rough cut. I think it might be too rough though, so I need to check what other surface options they offer. I'm thinking of ordering 24' sticks.

Finished the front gable end today and almost have all the front sheathing on.

IMG_20150926_182650715_HDR-vi.jpg


IMG_20150926_182632184_HDR-vi.jpg
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: my vote is for wood and rough might look ok with some stain on it. the rough cut usually takes up more stain that freshly planed wood in my experience.

one thing to consider is the maintenance though if you are ok with either wood or metal. i'm guessing metal just needs pressure washing every few years and the wood would need re staining every few years (maybe).

your wood already on the outside looks awesome so i'll just sit back and watch.

good luck
 

checkthisout

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
5,232
Raw wood tends to be a maintenance headache but I think it's the only thing that will do your shop justice.

What do you have to do for runoff catchment?
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
Raw wood tends to be a maintenance headache but I think it's the only thing that will do your shop justice.

What do you have to do for runoff catchment?

I'll have gutter on the lower roofs and I've already have drains installed around the foundation to take the water from the gutters out the back of the building, towards a lower part of the property.

64'x64'x2.5' = 10240 cubic feet or water (assuming 30" of rain a year). At 7.48 gallons in a cubic foot, that's 76,500 gallons of water! I'd like to capture that water for irrigating when it's dry.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: did you dig out a pond for water collection? several of the members have done this and some put fish in and swim in their ponds. if you haven't seen any i'll try to find a couple links for you to look at. just ask
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
SF: my vote is for wood and rough might look ok with some stain on it. the rough cut usually takes up more stain that freshly planed wood in my experience.

one thing to consider is the maintenance though if you are ok with either wood or metal. i'm guessing metal just needs pressure washing every few years and the wood would need re staining every few years (maybe).

your wood already on the outside looks awesome so i'll just sit back and watch.

good luck

I'm considering no stain or paint on the wood, just leave it exposed and let it weather. I see lots of old barns around with board and batt with no paint (or the paint has long since faded away) with what's most likely doug fir siding. And I'm sure the barn builder isn't around to see how well it lasted.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
SF: did you dig out a pond for water collection? several of the members have done this and some put fish in and swim in their ponds. if you haven't seen any i'll try to find a couple links for you to look at. just ask

I could totally do that. In the winter, there is already a small pond that forms and holds water for a couple of months. Some ducks and nutria hang out there. What I'd like to do is dig it out more and line it. But I'm not sure how the county will like the idea. The drain from the barn points right at this area.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: i'd wait to do the pond until after you get all your inspections done on your new barn/shop/man cave.

here's a link to a member's barn he turned into his home and made a huge pond he now has fish and swims in.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275549&highlight=barn+pond

a couple things to factor in before digging a pond. is it close to any drainfield or well? is your property able to be subdivided and if so it will be almost impossible with a pond on the property.

if you want a good water supply and don't need to divide or build more on your property or effect the house's water or septic then dig away.

cheers and keep posting pictures and don't be shy and take several from all sides because as you can see we all love your new shop. of course only if you have time to.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
So the big front door will be two sliding doors. The opening is 16x14. So each door will be 8x14. Any ideas on how to construct such a door?
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: i wish i could help with the garage door question. sorry, i don't have a clue what would work unless you can find some old barn that has great doors to buy a couple from. all i can do is post and kick your thread up to the top so maybe a member with some ideas can see it.

any more pictures?

cheers and good luck
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
Now you're just getting greedy SF. :lol:

I love the R series Inters, great find. :thumbup:


Nice progress on the build too.


I like the r-series also. I'm not sure what's going to happen with these trucks. I bought them because the cabs aren't all rusted out. I might try to make one good truck out of two. Of just harvest the parts I want and scrap the rest. One thing I do know for sure, the yellow jackets own these trucks, so I'll have to be careful when I poke around!
 

Toolfool

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
4,982
Location
Tallahassee, FL
So the big front door will be two sliding doors. The opening is 16x14. So each door will be 8x14. Any ideas on how to construct such a door?

Lots of ways to construct barn doors. Done several different ones. Best way for exterior doors is layering and overlapping joints. Buy high quality hardware, lots available now. Google for info and videos for a style you like .
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
My Dad and wife helped move a bunch of future "barn find"s into the barn. Took us most of the day. My dad asks, "which one are you going to work on first"? I don't know, really. I just want the barn finished and I'll shut the door and let come back in two weeks and pick one. Time lapse of moving day...

IMG_20150930_140232783-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_142801047-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_161149875-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_161703050-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_163038378-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_165355931-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_163256296_HDR-vi.jpg


IMG_20150930_163554034-vi.jpg
 

checkthisout

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
5,232
Looking pretty ****!

Make your doors with angle iron or a c channel perimeter frame with 2 x material lag bolted to the frame. Your "x's" to stiffen it up can be made from steel and welded to the frame or made out of wood screwed to the wood filler.

I like the character you're creating but it wouldn't be the end of the world if you had a regular garage door w/electric opener on it.

It'll be easier to seal than a rolling style door and definitely more convenient. Sealing is important because of mice, rates and shrews that will squeeze under a sliding type door and inevitably poop and pee on anything and everything you place in there.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
Looking pretty ****!

Make your doors with angle iron or a c channel perimeter frame with 2 x material lag bolted to the frame. Your "x's" to stiffen it up can be made from steel and welded to the frame or made out of wood screwed to the wood filler.

I like the character you're creating but it wouldn't be the end of the world if you had a regular garage door w/electric opener on it.

It'll be easier to seal than a rolling style door and definitely more convenient. Sealing is important because of mice, rates and shrews that will squeeze under a sliding type door and inevitably poop and pee on anything and everything you place in there.

I was kind of thinking along the same lines to create a frame out of metal, including the 'x''s, and everything else is just filler. Maybe use 2" square tubing to make basic rectangles, and then weld flat (i.e. 6" wide) pieces on top to form X. I could slip metal panels in from behind for a clean look. To make 14' door, I'd have two X rectangles stacked on each other for each door:

|X|X|
|X|X|

Ya, mice and squirrels are what I need to worry about. The door is the only way in, as far as I know. I'll have to think about how those are going to seal.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: i had a place with 10 acres about 25 years ago that was a rental. every time i would go out to work on it to clean it up for a new tenant and leave the garage door open field mice would just walk right in. one time a tenant must have left the door open so they made homes in the insulation. not an easy fix and might be worse if they make homes in your nice old truck's seats and engines.

i did end up lucking out because a feral cat showed up that was amazing at catching and eating mice. you might need a few cats if you don't already own some at your place even if you design and make great doors that shut tight because hard to not open the doors at all. or some sort of trapping situation and i'll let you think of that.

those trucks look great in their new home and hoping you made the shop (barn) big enough.

good luck with the door
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: quick question if you don't mind answering another one of mine. the heads on the nails or screws holding the window's upper and lower headers look bigger than 16d nails so are they screws or nails?

good luck on the finish work today and the trucks look at home now.

cheers and have a great weekend
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
SF: quick question if you don't mind answering another one of mine. the heads on the nails or screws holding the window's upper and lower headers look bigger than 16d nails so are they screws or nails?

good luck on the finish work today and the trucks look at home now.

cheers and have a great weekend

Those are TimberLOK screws from Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/FastenMaster-6-in-TimberLok-Coarse-Steel-Hex-Head-Heavy-Duty-Wood-Screws-50-Pack-FMTLOK06-50/202268250

I notched the 4x6 post with a 5/8" slot for the 4x6 header and sill, and used these TimberLOK screws to hold everything together. Sort of has that timer-framed look without doing real wood joints.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
Holy ****! It just keeps better and better. I'm a big F100 junkie, looks like you need to grab a 56 or two :)

I know 56 is traditionally the f100 to have, but for some reason I like the 53-55 cab design better. I think my range for old trucks, any brand, is 47 thru 55. It's interesting to compare the changes during those years between the brands. You can see ideas being borrowed over the years. The 56 f100, to me, looks like Ford trying to catch up with chev's new '55 wrap-around windshield. But Ford probably had the last word in '57 with their new design that pretty much set the template for the modern truck. No more fat fenders :(
 
Last edited:

Robbie13

Active member
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
32
Location
Williamston, NC
Holy smokes man! Very nice! I don't know if I'm more envious of the shop or the trucks! Every truck around here is rusted. I'd be like a kid in a candy store! Can't wait to see how they come out.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
Started roofing the upper roof today. I need to build a cupola base for the center of the roof before I can continue laying down metal.

IMG_20151005_185833612_HDR-vi.jpg
 

bheck89

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2014
Messages
13
Amazing barn! And trucks! Can't wait to see it all finished. That would be awesome if that AEC truck came from Hanford, my grandfather was an engineer there, was in charge of all the nuclear waste storage tanks.
 

yaidunno

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2011
Messages
1,336
Location
WI
Your shop, and its construction is a work of art. I enjoy your taste in trucks as well, a '50 3100 owner myself.
 

knucklehead

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2005
Messages
307
Location
Lane County, Or
not sure if i missed it or if you didn't mention the town your building in.
i am waiting for lane county to issue a variance (i am riverfront & in the floodplain) so i can add another 36' x 48' onto my shop in cottage grove & if your close i would love to talk to your concrete contractor for a quote.
 
OP
S

sfeldma

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
121
not sure if i missed it or if you didn't mention the town your building in.
i am waiting for lane county to issue a variance (i am riverfront & in the floodplain) so i can add another 36' x 48' onto my shop in cottage grove & if your close i would love to talk to your concrete contractor for a quote.

I'm in Linn county. My concrete guy is out of Albany; not sure what his range is. I'll PM you his contact info.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,041
Location
Pacific Northwest
SF: thanks for the 411 on the bolts and i do like the way you framed in the windows. trucks look great and just curious do you have more or are you still buying any. i've got a 1978 Ford c800 flatbed i bought from a closing down steel fab company that is really stout and has the cool smaller size cab so there is also a flat bed area alongside the cab for 20+ foot material. anyway i don't have a huge need or a great place to park if you might want to trade for one of your working pick ups. PM me with your email and i'll send you pictures if you are interested.

now back to your awesome shop. still looking amazing and i'm not sure i could leave that much upper space open. any plans for a loft or storage up there?

keep up the great work and roof is looking great too.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom