VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[CRSINMICH]

DIE FORGED VISE HANDLE
For anyone who might be interested here is a link to a Woodwright's Shop episode where Roy Underhill goes to Peter Ross' forge. Toward the end of the episode they swage a knob onto the end of a vise handle.


http://www.pbs.org/video/2365554522/

 

[IHmachinery]

DIE FORGED VISE HANDLE
For anyone who might be interested here is a link to a Woodwright's Shop episode where Roy Underhill goes to Peter Ross' forge. Toward the end of the episode they swage a knob onto the end of a vise handle.


http://www.pbs.org/video/2365554522/

Thanks for posting this link! Always interesting to see old ways of working metal.


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[drivesitfar]

ALL: there was a thread started on Vise companies before i joined that i didn't know about that should maybe add a little information to the vise companies collected by the members on this thread on post #2 and here's the link.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177829

 

[va.grouseman]

Thanks for reposting that Drive.---I remembered reading that post way back in the big thread and was looking for it again last month and spent the best part of a morning searching for it to no avail.---It had been reposted by a member on (The Vises Of Garage Journal) thread.---At the time I didn't think to make note of the post for future reference.---It's going in the file.

 

[maxdustington]

Hey guys

I completed assembly on my Reed 2C today. I used molasses to remove the rust and the coated it in BLO. I left the handle and main screw alone because I honestly forgot about it, but I think it adds some character. I might repaint it and the swivel handles at some point. I think it came out pretty good for a first effort, I learned a lot during the process.

I learned that molasses seems to do nothing for a few weeks, then becomes considerably more effective. I guess it has to do with it fermenting as it starts to stink a bit around that time lol. It is very effective, but I ran into flash rust problems due to the humidity here. The big parts flashed when I originally coated them and left them outside to dry. I coated the smaller ones inside and then left them out to dry in the sun. They rusted a bit after an hour or so outside. You can only really see the rust in direct light, so it looked pretty significant outdoors but once inside it is not as obvious.

Next time I would not do it outside. I've got a couple more vises for winter projects so I'll continue to develop my methods.

I still need to straighten or replace my swivel lock handles, as one needs to be hammered to spin 360 degrees. Most importantly I need to locate a swivel bushing + bolt for this beast. If anyone could help me out that would be great.

I went a little crazy with the anti-sieze so the vise looks a little gross in the pics. Also, did I put the pipe jaws on upside down?

 

[Outlawmws]

Max, molasses is slow but should not be that slow. How cold was it? I get best results with the tub sitting in the sun so it gets warm to the touch.

Also, what was your mix ratio to water?

 

[Shiftless]

max:
Thanks for the post.
Did you use grocery store molasses or feed store molasses?
What dilution ratio?

Did you consider using a heat gun or hair dryer to get rid of water faster and get your BLO on sooner to minimize flash rusting?
Some members use electric smokers to bake (clean) vise parts. I would use a propane BBQ grill for that purpose too.

Imagine how well a self cleaning oven would work for degreasing and paint removal!
(of course not your kitchen oven)

 

[maxdustington]

Max, molasses is slow but should not be that slow. How cold was it? I get best results with the tub sitting in the sun so it gets warm to the touch.

Also, what was your mix ratio to water?

10:1. I had it in a shed beside the house so it was at least 80f during the day most of the time. I should have been more descriptive, it definitely did something but at week 3 it seemed to really start to fill up with rust and develop a skin etc. It seemed to become more bio active.

max:
Thanks for the post.
Did you use grocery store molasses or feed store molasses?
What dilution ratio?

Did you consider using a heat gun or hair dryer to get rid of water faster and get your BLO on sooner to minimize flash rusting?
Some members use electric smokers to bake (clean) vise parts. I would use a propane BBQ grill for that purpose too.

Imagine how well a self cleaning oven would work for degreasing and paint removal!
(of course not your kitchen oven)

I just used the walmart brand fancy molasses because I know you guys like it extra fancy at a 10:1 dilution ratio. I know that the feed store is better for removing rust but the nearest TSC is far from here. I thought about the heat gun to cook the BLO once it had been applied. My real problem was the humidity, not the presence of moisture. I cleaned the smaller parts in an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green and vinegar to get rid of the flash rust. I then immediately rinsed them and placed them in a tray full of BLO. They did not rust overnight, and then when I put them in the sun for an hour, they started to flash rust. What I was thinking was to have a cauldron for lack of a better word full of hot BLO, and then dipping the part in there.

Having an oven/grill for that would be awesome. I saw a commercial convection toaster oven on bidspotter and had this project in mind but I forgot to bid on it unfortunately. You could clean a vise and powdercoat it in the same oven! Would not be cooking any frozen pizzas in there after that though.

 

[royce]

I demolished some bowling lanes this summer and this laminate was laid over the top of the original maple surface.
It fractures like formica, but takes a lot more force to break.
It measures 7/16" thick and seems mighty tough.
I thought it might make decent vise jaws, so if somebody would like to try making some jaws out of it, I'll send it to you.
I don't want any money and will pick up the postage to the first person that get me their address.
All I ask is that you post a pic or two and report back on how well it works.

Royce

 

[royce]

I demolished some bowling lanes this summer and this laminate was laid over the top of the original maple surface.
It fractures like formica, but takes a lot more force to break.
It measures 7/16" thick and seems mighty tough.
I thought it might make decent vise jaws, so if somebody would like to try making some jaws out of it, I'll send it to you.
I don't want any money and will pick up the postage to the first person that get me their address.
All I ask is that you post a pic or two and report back on how well it works.

Royce

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I am on the second repair of this Desmond - Simplex vise. As you can see from the handle it had been on the ground for a long time. I originally painted everything on it and it has bothered me ever since. I cut the handle off and replaced it with one from another vise I had made a new one for. My dilemma is to try and press out the bottom center pin with a chance of breaking the base or drill out the threads on the body and just have perched on there. I hate having it resting on the threads when you lock the base. I have tried all other methods to remove it with no luck.

 

[IHmachinery]

I am on the second repair of this Desmond - Simplex vise. As you can see from the handle it had been on the ground for a long time. I originally painted everything on it and it has bothered me ever since. I cut the handle off and replaced it with one from another vise I had made a new one for. My dilemma is to try and press out the bottom center pin with a chance of breaking the base or drill out the threads on the body and just have perched on there. I hate having it resting on the threads when you lock the base. I have tried all other methods to remove it with no luck.

I think your idea of drilling out the threads is probably the best option. Low chance of success getting that pin out as it is probably corroded in pretty solid.

Other option, if the thread is a standard bolt size, would be to cut off the threaded part of the pin, and drill a new (smaller hole) in the base to fit the bolt shank. Cut the bolt head off at the right length and the remaining bolt shank would serve as the new swivel pin (not sure if I've explained this clearly enough). That way it would swivel in the base on a smooth bolt shank, rather than in the vise body on the threaded stub as it will now. The problem is they sometimes used kind of oddball threads ...


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[jreb10]

I am on the second repair of this Desmond - Simplex vise. As you can see from the handle it had been on the ground for a long time. I originally painted everything on it and it has bothered me ever since. I cut the handle off and replaced it with one from another vise I had made a new one for. My dilemma is to try and press out the bottom center pin with a chance of breaking the base or drill out the threads on the body and just have perched on there. I hate having it resting on the threads when you lock the base. I have tried all other methods to remove it with no luck.

I am assuming that the "center pin" shoulder bolt is rusted into the base. Yeah, that oblong-shaped head is tough to get a grip on.

I assume you have tried the usual "heat it up" and penetrating oil approach without success, in addition to carefully tapping it with a hammer while being careful of the threads. You might also try tapping the bottom of the bolt as well to try to break the rust bond.

In the past I have done the following (with great care I might add):

Measure across the parallel edges of the bolt. Look up the closest hex head bolt size that matches that measurement. Then get an impact socket of that size.

I used a grinder to remove some of the socket flats so the socket could grip the oblong bolt head:



You can now get a decent purchase on the bolt and twist it in a direction that is radial to the base, as if you were unscrewing it. The base is strong in that direction. And it can be clamped in a vise.

Now comes the "be careful" part. That socket is no where near as strong as it was. If the remaining flats break under pressure they can be like shrapnel. I have used an impact on a very low setting and gotten the bolts free. You just need to break the rust bond. Lots of low power taps and plenty of penetrating oil can work. And never put any part of your body in the same plane as the base.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Sorry for the late reply, I have been helping (observing) repair on my sprinkler system.

IH the thread is an odd one, 11/16 16 thread so the bolt idea is out. I even looked through some of my old car leftovers. I agree some form of a pin would be less risky.

jreb a 1" wrench fits very snug on the flats of the oval. I locked the base in my 6" Parker and gave it a few hammer blows but it started moving and left marks on top of the machined surface of the base. I also tried the hammer directly on top of the center bolt but quit, thinking it was starting to deform the threads.

I think I will soak it with trans-actone and maybe some PB blaster a while longer and try the press very lightly if that is possible ?

Thanks for the suggestions and I'll report back on the "out"come or bust.

 

[IHmachinery]

Sorry for the late reply, I have been helping (observing) repair on my sprinkler system.



IH the thread is an odd one, 11/16 16 thread so the bolt idea is out. I even looked through some of my old car leftovers. I agree some form of a pin would be less risky.



jreb a 1" wrench fits very snug on the flats of the oval. I locked the base in my 6" Parker and gave it a few hammer blows but it started moving and left marks on top of the machined surface of the base. I also tried the hammer directly on top of the center bolt but quit, thinking it was starting to deform the threads.



I think I will soak it with trans-actone and maybe some PB blaster a while longer and try the press very lightly if that is possible ?



Thanks for the suggestions and I'll report back on the "out"come or bust.

Good luck. I hope it cooperates ...


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[Outlawmws]

Get. Screw the base part way on the vise and:

• open the vise so you can set it on blocked upside down on the slide. now the main vise is supported,
• set that pile on a press, and
• get a section of pipe that just clears the screw head asn set that on top
• press on the added pipe...

this should give you support and pressure on the beam and leave space for the screw to move out...

 

[Carla]

Sorry for the late reply, I have been helping (observing) repair on my sprinkler system.

IH the thread is an odd one, 11/16 16 thread so the bolt idea is out. I even looked through some of my old car leftovers. I agree some form of a pin would be less risky.

jreb a 1" wrench fits very snug on the flats of the oval. I locked the base in my 6" Parker and gave it a few hammer blows but it started moving and left marks on top of the machined surface of the base. I also tried the hammer directly on top of the center bolt but quit, thinking it was starting to deform the threads.

I think I will soak it with trans-actone and maybe some PB blaster a while longer and try the press very lightly if that is possible ?

Thanks for the suggestions and I'll report back on the "out"come or bust.

If I was doing it, I'd drill out that centre-bolt, re-tap the 11/16-16 thread to the common 3/4-16, and make a new centre-bolt. (if you don't do turning yourself, have you a friend who does?)

cheers

Carla

 

[KMScott]

I agree with Carla.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I have a lot of time in this "rescue" vise so what else have I got to do. I'll start drilling tomorrow and find a shoulder bolt to work.
Thanks to all !!

 

[bulletpruf]

I think I will soak it with trans-actone and maybe some PB blaster a while longer and try the press very lightly if that is possible ?

Try Kroil. Once you've used it, you'll never go back to PB Blaster.

Some folks think 50/50 trans-acetone works just as well, but I disagree.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

The Garage Journal members have a wealth of knowledge and it is great that they are willing to share it. I received gracious offers from Kevin Scott to remove the stuck bolt and clean up the hole in the base and IHmachinery to make a new shoulder bolt if I couldn't find one. I did not think the condition of the vise justified the talent, time, and generosity these guys were willing to put into it. A big thanks to them !!!!
After a little thought and garage ingenuity I came up with a fix. First was a 3/8" hole drilled through the stuck bolt. I cut off the 11/16" threaded part flush with base. I put a slot in it so it could be threaded back in or removed from the bottom of the housing. Next was drilling a large hole in the oval head of the shoulder bolt so I could chisel the rest of it off. I used a grade 8. 3/8" bolt cut to fit and put groove in it for the clip.
It swivels perfect and dead on center Even with a smaller 3/8" bolt you would break the base before the bolt sheared off. If that were the case you should have used a bigger vise anyway.

 

[KMScott]

You are awesome Get. Nice fix. Just amazing what you can do with what you have. Should last another 50 years.

 

[Outlawmws]

Good workaround Get!

 

[IHmachinery]

The Garage Journal members have a wealth of knowledge and it is great that they are willing to share it. I received gracious offers from Kevin Scott to remove the stuck bolt and clean up the hole in the base and IHmachinery to make a new shoulder bolt if I couldn't find one. I did not think the condition of the vise justified the talent, time, and generosity these guys were willing to put into it. A big thanks to them !!!!

After a little thought and garage ingenuity I came up with a fix. First was a 3/8" hole drilled through the stuck bolt. I cut off the 11/16" threaded part flush with base. I put a slot in it so it could be threaded back in or removed from the bottom of the housing. Next was drilling a large hole in the oval head of the shoulder bolt so I could chisel the rest of it off. I used a grade 8. 3/8" bolt cut to fit and put groove in it for the clip.

It swivels perfect and dead on center Even with a smaller 3/8" bolt you would break the base before the bolt sheared off. If that were the case you should have used a bigger vise anyway.

Ingenious! That is a great repair!


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[Carla]

The Garage Journal members have a wealth of knowledge and it is great that they are willing to share it. I received gracious offers from Kevin Scott to remove the stuck bolt and clean up the hole in the base and IHmachinery to make a new shoulder bolt if I couldn't find one. I did not think the condition of the vise justified the talent, time, and generosity these guys were willing to put into it. A big thanks to them !!!!
After a little thought and garage ingenuity I came up with a fix. First was a 3/8" hole drilled through the stuck bolt. I cut off the 11/16" threaded part flush with base. I put a slot in it so it could be threaded back in or removed from the bottom of the housing. Next was drilling a large hole in the oval head of the shoulder bolt so I could chisel the rest of it off. I used a grade 8. 3/8" bolt cut to fit and put groove in it for the clip.
It swivels perfect and dead on center Even with a smaller 3/8" bolt you would break the base before the bolt sheared off. If that were the case you should have used a bigger vise anyway.

Hmmm.......a cost/time-effective improvisation, with the tools and parts on hand, and making a good serviceable repair......what's not to like?

That's worth a 'well done', any day.......... : )

cheers

Carla

 

[Shiftless]

Get:
Well done indeed. I love it when a plan comes together!

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Thank's for the comments, some repairs just seem to go well and this was one of them
Carla, I did have to spend 20 cents at the hardware store for the clip and the dog was overjoyed to get to ride

 

[1982fxr]

Oddball vise thread in the general tools section...mystery vise?

 

[fl18guy]

trying to restore my 625 athol vise.I broke the handle at the acme thread. I Can buy parts from a 624 athol, Any members have a 624 that can measure length of thread screw to see if they are the same size or not. Part would be shipped so I don't have that infront of me to measure it myself. Thanks in advanced for the help.

 

[jimreed2160]

trying to restore my 625 athol vise.I broke the handle at the acme thread. I Can buy parts from a 624 athol, Any members have a 624 that can measure length of thread screw to see if they are the same size or not. Part would be shipped so I don't have that infront of me to measure it myself. Thanks in advanced for the help.

As luck would have it, I am currently restoring an Athol 624 1/2 and the parts are strewn about and very easy to measure. The leadscrew is 1" diameter and is 15 3/4" from shoulder of the head to the tip. Hope this helps. Good luck with your vise.

 

[jimreed2160]

Many thanks to all who have posted valuable tips here on GJ. I am currently restoring a Reed 1C which had a double kink in the handle. No problem for a press, which I do not have. But as a woodworker, I have tons of clamps. I used some of the large ones to make a redneck press.

It took about an hour of pressing and moving things about. Wood was groaning and the clamps were giving their all.

Then I was down to the last kink.

The result was not perfect, but it was pretty good. The handle moves much better. I am sure it can now get up a real finger smashing velocity now. Again thanks to all who have contributed their knowledge. This place rocks!

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Jimreed,
Great post on straightening the handle.
I'm very impressed that your bar clamps have enough beef to bend that steel handle.

 

[drivesitfar]

GET: if you ever get a CNC and a metal lathe you might even end up making a vise from scratch with all the talent you've shown. WELL DONE and when can we plan on seeing a 10 incher come out of the back of your garage?

JIM REED: WELL DONE and i agree using woodworking tools to bend steel is different and happy to see you didn't break one or more of your clamps.

also welcome to the forum. feel free to PM me if you have any questions or one of the mods about the forum if you have any or just jump in as you already did to post and show your talent and ask questions on threads that have something you are interested in learning more about.

i still learn something every day i log on here just like watching a new member bend steel with woodworking tools.

cheers

 

[Carla]

Many thanks to all who have posted valuable tips here on GJ. I am currently restoring a Reed 1C which had a double kink in the handle. No problem for a press, which I do not have. But as a woodworker, I have tons of clamps. I used some of the large ones to make a redneck press.

It took about an hour of pressing and moving things about. Wood was groaning and the clamps were giving their all.

Then I was down to the last kink.

The result was not perfect, but it was pretty good. The handle moves much better. I am sure it can now get up a real finger smashing velocity now. Again thanks to all who have contributed their knowledge. This place rocks!

Hi, Jim,

Congratulations on your successful improvisation..... : )

I'll have to admit that if anyone had asked me whether it would be possible to straighten that part, using woodworking bar-clamps, and softwood clamping-cauls, I'd have said 'no, the fast thread, and light construction, of woodworkers' clamps won't provide enough pressing tonnage with any amount of torque which could be reasonably done, and softwood cauls would simply crush under pressure, before adequate pressing force could be reached.'

I have to admit that i'm rather amazed, but that job is an excellent example of the alleged 'rednecks' motto'.......'get 'er done'.

cheers

Carla

 

[jimreed2160]

Thanks for the kind words Carla. I bow to the expert. It was hard to see but the bending cauls were walnut and the main thruster was aligned with end grain. I was stretching both my woodworking and metalworking skills. But it is only because of you and others who share their knowledge. I lurked for many years on Practical Machinist and learned a ton. Your name is familiar from there, I think. The Reed vise is in the home stretch and I hope to post the money shots in a week or two. It is a rehab rather than a full on restoration since the finish on the vise was in really good shape to start with. My goal is to make it look like it just came out of granddaddy's garage and put to work with just a wipedown.

By the way, I forgot to post the final picture.

 

[Brorex]

Pretty new here. And no ability to braise really but is there a way to fix this and is it worth fixing? It is the base from a craftsman 5160

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[HCNDM]

Pretty new here. And no ability to braise really but is there a way to fix this and is it worth fixing? It is the base from a craftsman 5160

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Brazing or silicon bronze tig welding are your options.

Even then it takes some experience to get it right on cast metal.

Both fixes if done right will make the base fully functional and strong again. Neither will raise the value.

So if you are gonna use it go for it otherwise try to find a donor vise.


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[Outlawmws]

Thanks for the kind words Carla. I bow to the expert. It was hard to see but the bending cauls were walnut and the main thruster was aligned with end grain. I was stretching both my woodworking and metalworking skills. But it is only because of you and others who share their knowledge. I lurked for many years on Practical Machinist and learned a ton. Your name is familiar from there, I think. The Reed vise is in the home stretch and I hope to post the money shots in a week or two. It is a rehab rather than a full on restoration since the finish on the vise was in really good shape to start with. My goal is to make it look like it just came out of granddaddy's garage and put to work with just a wipedown.

By the way, I forgot to post the final picture.

 

[WWShop]

The pins in the back of my Wilton were in very bad shape when I bought the vise, so I cut down two door hinge pins to hold the threaded rod in place. It works, but it isn't a great fit. Anyone have any suggestions for a better pin?

 

[Outlawmws]

Dr. Scott has a fix with threading the housing and replacing the pins with a setscrew with a pin tip.